''L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon'' was a Michelin-starred restaurant in
West Street,
Covent Garden
Covent Garden is a district in London, on the eastern fringes of the West End, between St Martin's Lane and Drury Lane. It is associated with the former fruit-and-vegetable market in the central square, now a popular shopping and tourist sit ...
, in the
City of Westminster
The City of Westminster is a London borough with City status in the United Kingdom, city status in Greater London, England. It is the site of the United Kingdom's Houses of Parliament and much of the British government. It contains a large par ...
,
London
London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...
. The restaurant spanned three floors, with the counter on the ground floor, the tables and restaurant on the first floor, and the salon bar and terrace on the upper floor. The restaurant was run by French
celebrity chef
A celebrity chef is a kitchen chef who has become a celebrity. Today, chefs often become celebrities by presenting cookery advice and demonstrations, usually through the media of television and radio, or in Books, printed publications. While telev ...
,
Joël Robuchon
Joël Robuchon (, 7 April 1945 – 6 August 2018) was a French chef and restaurateur. He was named "Chef of the Century" by the guide Gault Millau in 1989, and awarded the ''Meilleur Ouvrier de France'' (France's best worker) in cuisine in 197 ...
, while the executive chef was Jeremy Page.
Description
The restaurant was northwest of
Covent Garden
Covent Garden is a district in London, on the eastern fringes of the West End, between St Martin's Lane and Drury Lane. It is associated with the former fruit-and-vegetable market in the central square, now a popular shopping and tourist sit ...
, two doors from restaurant
The Ivy. It was opened in 2006, with the L'Atelier ground floor promising no-reservations required outside of 5pm to 7pm, which at the time caused some consternation for food critics who wished to review it.
As with the other L'Atelier restaurants, the seating is laid out around an open kitchen, with the entire floor of the building decorated in black and red. La Cuisine is on the second floor, which is a formal sit down restaurant,
[ and there is a bar on the third floor.] It is one of twelve L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is the name of French people, French gourmet restaurants, located worldwide, created by chef Joël Robuchon and now managed by JR International. The restaurants serve French haute cuisine in a stylized environment. Ma ...
s around the world.[ The executive chef of the restaurant was Jeremy Page, and the Chef Patron was ]Joël Robuchon
Joël Robuchon (, 7 April 1945 – 6 August 2018) was a French chef and restaurateur. He was named "Chef of the Century" by the guide Gault Millau in 1989, and awarded the ''Meilleur Ouvrier de France'' (France's best worker) in cuisine in 197 ...
. Page, who previously worked in other Robuchon restaurants, took over from Xavier Boyes after his departure.
Reception
Joe Warwick in the book ''Eat London'' says of it, "the ground floor is a low-lit combination of black and red that makes it look like a giant bento box at battle with a 80s cocktail bar. Customers sit along a sleek shiny counter and eat small plates of some of possibly the most exquisiste seasonal French cooking currently in London." Donald Strachan of Frommer's
Frommer's () is a travel guide book series created by Arthur Frommer in 1957. Frommer's has since expanded to include more than 350 guidebooks in 14 series, as well as other media including an eponymous radio show and a website. In 2017, the com ...
says of the restaurant, "for the most dramatic effect, eat at Atelier's counter. Here you can watch the theatre of the chefs producing tapas
Tapas () are appetisers or snacks in Spanish cuisine. They can be combined to make a full meal and are served cold (such as mixed olives and cheese) or hot (such as , which are battered, fried baby squid; or , spicy potatoes). In some bars ...
-style dishes - small bombshells of taste as in beef
Beef is the culinary name for meat from cattle (''Bos taurus''). Beef can be prepared in various ways; Cut of beef, cuts are often used for steak, which can be cooked to varying degrees of doneness, while trimmings are often Ground beef, grou ...
and foie gras
; (, ) is a specialty food product made of the liver of a Domestic duck, duck or Domestic goose, goose. According to French law, ''foie gras'' is defined as the liver of a duck or goose fattened by ''gavage'' (force feeding).
''Foie gras'' i ...
mini-burger; pig's trotter on parmesan
Parmesan (, ) is an Italian cuisine, Italian Types of cheese#Hard cheese, hard, Types of cheese#Granular, granular cheese produced from Dairy cattle, cow's milk and aged at least 12 months. It is a Grana (cheese), grana-type cheese, along wit ...
toast; and the signature egg cocotte with wild mushroom
A mushroom or toadstool is the fleshy, spore-bearing Sporocarp (fungi), fruiting body of a fungus, typically produced above ground on soil or another food source. ''Toadstool'' generally refers to a poisonous mushroom.
The standard for the n ...
cream, all wildly inventive and beautifully presented. The a la carte menu follows the conventional three course approach, using superb ingredients." '' Time Out'' in its London edition, described the interior of the restaurant as a "smart if slightly dated bento-box aesthetic of shiny reds and blacks",[ but praised the quality of the food overall, in particular the onglet with ]polenta
Polenta (, ) is an Italian cuisine, Italian dish of boiled cornmeal that was historically made from other grains. It may be allowed to cool and solidify into a loaf that can be baked, fried or Grilling, grilled.
The variety of cereal used is ...
.[
]Jay Rayner
Jason Matthew Rayner (born 14 September 1966) is a British journalist and food critic. He has worked as a freelance journalist for newspapers including ''The Observer'' and ''The Independent on Sunday.'' He was the ''Observer'' restaurant criti ...
visited the restaurant for ''The Observer
''The Observer'' is a British newspaper published on Sundays. First published in 1791, it is the world's oldest Sunday newspaper.
In 1993 it was acquired by Guardian Media Group Limited, and operated as a sister paper to ''The Guardian'' ...
'' shortly after it opened. After waiting forty minutes for a seat in the bar area which he described as "like being locked in a PVC fetishist's knicker drawer",[ he described the open kitchen design as a "joyous experience".][ However, he disliked some elements of the food, including Robuchon's take on ]spaghetti bolognese
Bolognese sauce, known in Italian as or (called in Bologna, ''ragó'' in Bolognese dialect), is the main variety of ragù in Italian cuisine. It is associated with the city of Bologna.
is a slowly cooked meat-based sauce, and its preparat ...
to which he remarked "Sun-dried tomatoes and olives in a bolognese? Oi! Robuchon! NO!"[ but thought that the ]sweetbreads
Sweetbread is a culinary name for the thymus or pancreas, typically from calf or lamb. Sweetbreads have a rich, slightly gamey flavor and a tender, succulent texture. They are often served as an appetizer or a main course and can be accompani ...
were exemplary, and enjoyed the other elements of the meal.[ Matthew Norman ate at the restaurant following its opening for '']The Guardian
''The Guardian'' is a British daily newspaper. It was founded in Manchester in 1821 as ''The Manchester Guardian'' and changed its name in 1959, followed by a move to London. Along with its sister paper, ''The Guardian Weekly'', ''The Guardi ...
'', giving it a score of 8/10 overall, stating "what we most admired about the cooking was the lack of fuss and poncery". ''The Independent
''The Independent'' is a British online newspaper. It was established in 1986 as a national morning printed paper. Nicknamed the ''Indy'', it began as a broadsheet and changed to tabloid format in 2003. The last printed edition was publis ...
s Terry Durack also visited around the same time, and thought that while the pricing structure was a "nightmare", he gave it a score of 16/20 which marked the restaurant as being "capable of greatness".[
]
See also
* List of French restaurants
This is a list of notable French restaurants. French cuisine consists of cooking traditions and practices from France, famous for the rich tastes and subtle nuances with long and rich history. France, a country famous for its agriculture and indepe ...
* List of Michelin starred restaurants
Michelin stars are a rating system used by the red Michelin Guide to grade restaurants on their quality. The guide was originally developed in 1900 to show French drivers where local amenities such as restaurants and mechanics were. The rating sys ...
* List of Michelin 3-star restaurants in the United Kingdom
The Waterside Inn, the first restaurant outside France to hold three Michelin stars for 25 years
As of February 2024 there were nine restaurants in the UK holding three Michelin stars, with all except L’Enclume (Cumbria) located in London or t ...
* L%27Atelier de Joël Robuchon
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is the name of French people, French gourmet restaurants, located worldwide, created by chef Joël Robuchon and now managed by JR International. The restaurants serve French haute cuisine in a stylized environment. Ma ...
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Buildings and structures in the London Borough of Camden
Covent Garden
Defunct French restaurants in London
Defunct Michelin-starred restaurants in London