Kalaupapa, Hawaii
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Kalaupapa () is a small
unincorporated community An unincorporated area is a parcel of land that is not governed by a local general-purpose municipal corporation. (At p. 178.) They may be governed or serviced by an encompassing unit (such as a county) or another branch of the state (such as th ...
and Hawaiian home land on the
island An island or isle is a piece of land, distinct from a continent, completely surrounded by water. There are continental islands, which were formed by being split from a continent by plate tectonics, and oceanic islands, which have never been ...
of Molokai, within Kalawao County in the U.S. state of
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
. In 1866, during the reign of
Kamehameha V Kamehameha V (Lota Kapuāiwa Kalanimakua Aliʻiōlani Kalanikupuapaʻīkalaninui; December 11, 1830 – December 11, 1872), reigned as the fifth monarch of the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi from 1863 to 1872. His motto was "Onipaʻa": immovable, firm, s ...
, the Hawaii legislature passed a law that resulted in the designation of Molokai as the site for a leper colony, where patients who were seriously affected by
leprosy Leprosy, also known as Hansen's disease (HD), is a Chronic condition, long-term infection by the bacteria ''Mycobacterium leprae'' or ''Mycobacterium lepromatosis''. Infection can lead to damage of the Peripheral nervous system, nerves, respir ...
(also known as Hansen's disease) could be quarantined, to prevent them from infecting others. At the time, the disease was little understood: it was believed to be highly contagious and was incurable until the advent of antibiotics. The communities where people with leprosy lived were under the administration of the Board of Health, which appointed superintendents on the island. Kalaupapa is located on the Kalaupapa Peninsula at the base of sea cliffs that rise above the
Pacific Ocean The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five Borders of the oceans, oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean, or, depending on the definition, to Antarctica in the south, and is ...
. In the 1870s a community to support the leper colony was established here. The legislature required people with severe cases to be quarantined on the island in the hope of preventing contagion. The area has been preserved as the
Kalaupapa National Historical Park Kalaupapa National Historical Park is a United States National Historical Park located in Kalaupapa, Hawaii, on the island of Molokai. Coterminous with the boundaries of Kalawao County and primarily on Kalaupapa peninsula, it was establish ...
, which takes in the entire county. Despite the declining population, the post office is still active, having a zip code of 96742.


Leprosy settlement

The village is the site of a former settlement for people with leprosy. At its peak, about 1,200 men, women, and children were exiled to Kalaupapa Peninsula. The isolation law was enacted by King Kamehameha V and remained in effect until its repeal in 1969. Today, about four people who formerly had leprosy continue to live there. The colony is now included within
Kalaupapa National Historical Park Kalaupapa National Historical Park is a United States National Historical Park located in Kalaupapa, Hawaii, on the island of Molokai. Coterminous with the boundaries of Kalawao County and primarily on Kalaupapa peninsula, it was establish ...
. The original leper colony was first established in Kalawao in the east, opposite to the village corner of the peninsula. It was there where
Father Damien Damien De Veuster , popularly known as Father Damien or Saint Damien of Molokai ( or '; born Jozef De Veuster; 3 January 1840 – 15 April 1889), was a Catholic Church in Belgium, Belgian Catholic priest in the Congregation of the Sacred Hearts ...
settled in 1873. Later it was moved to the location of the current village, which was originally a
Native Hawaiian Native Hawaiians (also known as Indigenous Hawaiians, Kānaka Maoli, Aboriginal Hawaiians, or simply Hawaiians; , , , and ) are the Indigenous peoples of Oceania, Indigenous Polynesians, Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiʻi was set ...
fishing village. The settlement was also attended by Mother Marianne Cope and physician Arthur Albert St. Mouritz, among others. In 1893–1894, the Board of Health tried to remove the last fishing village inhabitants in order to expand the colony to encompass the entire Kalaupapa peninsula, including Kalawao. Shortly before the end of mandatory isolation in 1969, the state legislature considered closing the facility entirely. Intervention by interested persons, such as entertainer Don Ho and TV newsman Don Picken, resulted in allowing the residents who chose to do so to remain there for life. The opponents to closure pointed out that, although there were no active cases of leprosy in the colony, many of the residents were physically scarred by the disease to an extent that would make their integration into mainstream society difficult if not impossible. In total over the decades, more than 8,500 men, women and children living throughout the Hawaiian islands and diagnosed with leprosy were exiled to the colony by the Hawaiian government and legally declared dead.


Geography

The Kalaupapa Peninsula remains one of the most remote locations in Hawaii due to unique volcanic and geologic activity over millions of years. Specifically, Molokai's famous sea cliffs, which reach up to three thousand feet above sea level and are among the tallest in the world, are most responsible for restricting access. Geologists thought that these cliffs were carved by wind and water erosion, but it is now believed that they formed after a third of the northern portion of the island collapsed into the sea. The offshore islands—'Ōkala, Mōkapu, and Huelo—support this theory, housing original plant species found on Molokai over two thousand years ago such as the rare native loulu palm. Mōkapu also hosts a remnant population of '' Emoia impar'', the dark-bellied copper-striped skink, which was introduced to Hawaii more recently. Around 230,000–300,000 years ago, an offshore
shield volcano A shield volcano is a type of volcano named for its low profile, resembling a shield lying on the ground. It is formed by the eruption of highly fluid (low viscosity) lava, which travels farther and forms thinner flows than the more viscous lava ...
named Pu’u’uao erupted from the sea floor. The extremely hot and fast flowing pāhoehoe lava created a flat triangle of land which eventually cooled and connected to the main part of the island. Among residents' most pressing challenges to survival were the scarcity and preservation of freshwater. An interest in the Kalaupapa coastal aquifer was captured by conflicting early accounts of visitors Jules Remy (1893) and Nakuino (1878) who described Kauhako Crater lake, a central geomorphic feature of the Kalaupapa peninsula as containing salt or freshwater, respectively. Kauhako lake, a freshwater resource during certain times in Kalaupapa's history, has largest depth-to-area ratio for any lake on earth. The lake has a weak tidal connection to the ocean and the Kalaupapa peninsula is underlain by only a thin freshwater lens.


Access to the Peninsula

Until the construction of the Kalaupapa Airport in 1935, the only way into the peninsula was by boat or descending down the Kalaupapa Pali trail. Nowadays, accessing the peninsula via boat requires a special use permit. It is prohibited to come within of the Kalaupapa shoreline.


The Kalaupapa Trail

The Kalaupapa Pali Trail is the only land access into Kalaupapa. The trail consists of 26 switchbacks with a elevation change over the course of the trail. The National Park Service describes the hike as extremely strenuous due to the steep, uneven surfaces and varied trail conditions. Many visitors also ride Molokai mules down the trail into Kalaupapa.


Trail collapse

On the evening of December 25, 2018, a postal service worker discovered significant damage to the trail from an enormous landslide. According to the Star Advertiser, the landslide took out a bridge on one of the switchbacks, and the trail is indefinitely closed. There has been no report of a damage assessment, likely because the government was shut down at the time. Kenneth Seamon, the Kalaupapa administrator of the State Department of Health, said that supply deliveries shouldn't be affected since they go by barge and plane. The barge arrives once a year in the summer, and Kamaka Air stops weekly.


The Kishin Shinoyama photoshoot

In 1972, Japanese photographer Kishin Shinoyama photographed fashion-model Marie Helvin and some of her family more or less naked on the beach of Kalaupapa. These photos depicted the raw intimacy between the siblings through the use of grains and colors in the book 'Marie's Seven Days in Molokai'.


Kalaupapa National Historical Park

The Kalaupapa National Historical park was established December 22, 1980. The park only allows 100 visitors a day, and each visitor must have a sponsor, either a resident or through one of the tour companies. The National Park Service outlines several key pieces of information to know before planning a visit: * Persons under 16 years of age are not permitted to visit Kalaupapa. * There are no medical facilities at Kalaupapa. Any emergency medical response can take hours and may require a helicopter flight to Oahu or Maui. * There are no dining or shopping facilities available in Kalaupapa. All food and sundries must be brought in and all trash taken out. * Photography of patient-residents and their property is strictly prohibited without their express written permission. * The trail to the park is extremely steep and challenging with uneven surfaces. Rock and mudslides on the trail are common. Hiking the trail is physically demanding, so one should give careful consideration to one's physical fitness level before beginning the hike. * Overnight accommodations are available only to guests of residents.


See also

* '' Molokai: The Story of Father Damien''
Kalaupapa Peninsula and Molokai's Sea Cliffs. Aerial Interactive Images.
* Marie Helvin. ''The autobiography''. Published in 2007 by Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London, .


References


Further reading


Jack London — "The Lepers Of Molokai"
* Brennert, Alan. ''Moloka‘i: A Novel.'' New York: St. Martin's Griffin, 2003. . * Nalaielua, Henry, with Sally-Jo Bowman. ''No Footprints in the Sand: A Memoir of Kalaupapa''.
Honolulu Honolulu ( ; ) is the List of capitals in the United States, capital and most populous city of the U.S. state of Hawaii, located in the Pacific Ocean. It is the county seat of the Consolidated city-county, consolidated City and County of Honol ...
: Watermark, 2006. . * Puahala, Cathrine. ''We Had a Life: My Years at Kalaupapa.'' Hilo, Hawaiʻi: Pili Productions, 2016. * Tayman, John. ''The Colony: The Harrowing True Story of the Exiles of Molokai''. New York: Scribner's, 2006. . * The Leper, Steve Thayer 2008 * Kirby Wright. ''The Queen of Moloka‘i Book 1: Based On a True Story.''
California California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
: Lemon Shark Press, 2019. . * Arthur Albert St. Mouritz.
The Path of the Destroyer
', 1916. * Greene, Linda W.
Exile in Paradise
'. National Park Service, 1985. * Wade, H. W
Human Inoculation Experiments in Hawaii Including Notes On Those of Arning and Of Fitch
''International Journal of Leprosy''. Volume 19 Number 2, 1951.


External links


"Fear and Loathing in Hawaii: 'Colony'" (NPR Fresh Air, February 2 2006)

"Last days of a leper colony" (CBS News article, March 22 2003)
*

February 5, 2008.

December 1, 2008.
Pictopia.org 1667769 (26-Kalaupapa, HI-1) Plan for Proposed Lighthouse Keeper's House
Unincorporated communities in Kalawao County, Hawaii Populated places on Molokai Leper colonies Leprosy in Hawaii Unincorporated communities in Hawaii