John Lobb Bootmaker is a business that manufactures and retails a
luxury brand of
shoe
A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot. Though the human foot can adapt to varied terrains and climate conditions, it is vulnerable, and shoes provide protection. Form was originally tied to function, but ...
s and
boot
A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearl ...
s, mainly for men but also for women.
Leather
Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material obtained from the tanning (leather), tanning, or chemical treatment, of animal skins and hides to prevent decay. The most common leathers come from cattle, sheep, goats, equine animals, buffal ...
goods such as wallets and belts are also available. Founded in 1849 by
John Lobb (1829–95),
the business has been in operation since 1866 in
London
London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...
and circa 1900 in
Paris
Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 residents in January 2025 in an area of more than , Paris is the List of ci ...
.
[ Gov.uk, National archives](_blank)
/ref> John Lobb's son William took over the business, and after he died in 1916, the firm was led by Betsy Lobb.
The original London bespoke workshop at 9 St James's Street
St James's Street is the principal street in the district of St James's, central London. It runs from Piccadilly downhill to St James's Palace and Pall Mall. The main gatehouse of the Palace is at the southern end of the road; in the 17th centu ...
remains family-owned and continues to operate independently (as John Lobb Limited). In 1976, the French branch of the business was acquired by the Hermès Group, which has developed the John Lobb ready-to-wear shoe brand around the world. The two companies continue to maintain their bespoke shoe-making tradition, with the Lobb family's workshop in London and the Hermès-owned workshop in Paris.
History
John Lobb opened his first store in Sydney
Sydney is the capital city of the States and territories of Australia, state of New South Wales and the List of cities in Australia by population, most populous city in Australia. Located on Australia's east coast, the metropolis surrounds Syd ...
, Australia, in 1854. Lobb's initial success was in the importation of men's and women's shoes and boots, particularly women's footwear. Together with his lead bootmaker, William Cassull, John Lobb cemented his reputation as one of the Colony's top bootmakers. In 1862, John Lobb, in collaboration with local tanner Alderson & Sons, and with Cassull as lead bootmaker, produced a pair of polished leather riding boots that won the Prize Medal at the 1862 International Exhibition
The International Exhibition of 1862, officially the London International Exhibition of Industry and Art, also known as the Great London Exposition, was a world's fair held from 1 May to 1 November 1862 in South Kensington, London, England. Th ...
.
In 1866, John Lobb opened a shop in London and produced footwear for European royalty. He died in 1895, and his son William took over the business. Unusually, the firm did not mechanise like its competitors but stuck to craft techniques. Following the success of the London shop, William opened a shop in Paris in 1901 and another (unprofitable) shop in Regent Street, London, in 1904.
In 1901, William Lobb married Betsy Smerdon, and after the wedding, they went on a grand tour. William died in 1916, and it was Betsy who saved the business.
In 1976, Hermès was allowed to use the "John Lobb" brand name
A brand is a name, term, design, symbol or any other feature that distinguishes one seller's goods or service from those of other sellers. Brands are used in business, marketing, and advertising for recognition and, importantly, to create and ...
. Only about 100 pairs of ready-to-wear shoes are finished per day. The original, family-owned John Lobb firm still produces handmade shoes, one pair at a time. Until the 1980s, the business operated only custom-made activity in London and in Paris. From 1982 onwards, the ready-to-wear activity has complemented the made-to-measure, and distribution has expanded.
The London company was the subject of a 1945 British Pathé
British may refer to:
Peoples, culture, and language
* British people, nationals or natives of the United Kingdom, British Overseas Territories and Crown Dependencies.
* British national identity, the characteristics of British people and cultur ...
film, ''Shoes for the Famous'', and an episode of the June 2016 BBC Four
BBC Four is a British free-to-air Public service broadcasting in the United Kingdom, public broadcast television channel owned and operated by the BBC. It was launched on 2 March 2002 documentary series, ''Handmade: By Royal Appointment''.
Present operations
The London bespoke workshop, John Lobb Limited, remains at 9 St James's Street
St James's Street is the principal street in the district of St James's, central London. It runs from Piccadilly downhill to St James's Palace and Pall Mall. The main gatehouse of the Palace is at the southern end of the road; in the 17th centu ...
and is still independently operating as a family business.
In 1976, John Lobb Paris became part of the Hermès Group. The ready-to-wear collection debuted in 1982, and the first store showcasing the line opened in 1990 in Paris. In June 2014, the Hermès Group announced the appointment of Paula Gerbase as John Lobb's first ever Artistic Director.John Lobb Spruces Up Its Classic Footwear
''The New York Times'', Matthew Schneier, 13 November 2014
Gallery
File:Royal warrants of John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London (2).jpg, Royal Warrants of John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, London
File:Lobb bootmakers London.JPG, Storefront and workplace of John Lobb, London
File:Shop_interior_of_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg, Shop interior of John Lobb, London
File:Display_of_boots_at_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg, Boots from John Lobb, London
File:Workplace_of_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg, Workplace of John Lobb, London
File:Display of men's shoes at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London (2).jpg, Display of shoes at John Lobb, London
File:Shoemaker working at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London.jpg, Shoemaker at work, John Lobb, London
File:Selection_of_leather_swatches_at_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg, Selection of leather swatches at John Lobb, London
File:Shoe lasts of Queen Victoria from 1898 at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London.jpg, Shoe lasts of Queen Victoria
Victoria (Alexandrina Victoria; 24 May 1819 – 22 January 1901) was Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland from 20 June 1837 until Death and state funeral of Queen Victoria, her death in January 1901. Her reign of 63 year ...
See also
*
Church's
*
Edward Green & Co.
*
Tricker's
References
External links
John Lobb Limited(at 9 St James's Street, London)
John Lobb SAS(part of the
Hermès Group)
{{DEFAULTSORT:Lobb Ltd, John
Shoemakers
Shops in London
Shoe brands
Shoe companies of the United Kingdom
Manufacturing companies established in 1849
Retail companies established in 1849
1849 establishments in England
British royal warrant holders
Comité Colbert members
English brands
Luxury brands
Hermès
Family-owned companies of England