Huantsán
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Huantsán, Huantsan (modern
Quechua Quechua may refer to: *Quechua people, several Indigenous ethnic groups in South America, especially in Peru *Quechuan languages, an Indigenous South American language family spoken primarily in the Andes, derived from a common ancestral language ...
orthography: Wantsan) or Tunsho is a mountain in the
Andes The Andes ( ), Andes Mountains or Andean Mountain Range (; ) are the List of longest mountain chains on Earth, longest continental mountain range in the world, forming a continuous highland along the western edge of South America. The range ...
of
Peru Peru, officially the Republic of Peru, is a country in western South America. It is bordered in the north by Ecuador and Colombia, in the east by Brazil, in the southeast by Bolivia, in the south by Chile, and in the south and west by the Pac ...
. It is located in
Ancash Region Ancash (; ) is a department and region in western Peru. It is bordered by the departments of La Libertad on the north, Huánuco and Pasco on the east, Lima on the south, and the Pacific Ocean on the west. Its capital is the city of Huaraz, ...
and is part of the
Cordillera Blanca The Cordillera Blanca (Spanish for "white range") is a mountain range in Peru that is part of the larger Andes range and extends for between 8°08' and 9°58'S and 77°00' and 77°52'W, in a northwesterly direction. It includes several peaks ove ...
mountain range, a sub-range of the Andes. It has four peaks, with a maximum elevation of above sea level.


Geography

Huantsán is located in the boundary of the provinces of Huaraz and Huari, in the region of Ancash. It belongs to the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca and is the only elevation that exceeds 6000m in that area. Huantsán consists of four peaks: Huantsán Norte (6.113m), Huantsán (6.395m), Huantsán Oeste (6.270m) and Huantsán Sur (5.913m). Huantsán is protected inside
Huascarán National Park Huascarán National Park () is a Peruvian national park that comprises most of the mountain range known as Cordillera Blanca (the world's highest tropical mountain range) which is part of the central Andes, in the region of Ancash. The park cov ...
.


Climbing

Huantsán is one of the less climbed of all 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. All routes to the main summit are technically committing, the easier being the north-northwest ridge rated D+/TD-, involving a traverse from the nearby Huantsán Norte down a steep narrow snow ridge to a saddle at and a final section of steep snow and ice. More difficult is the west face, rated TD and requiring climbing on steep rock, mixed ground and bulges of water ice. Even more difficult is the northeast ridge, rated TD+ and climbed on the 17 August 1974 in two weeks by a party of thirteen people using fixed ropes.


History

In 1945, an avalanche coming from Huantsán buried the village of Chavín, killing about 500 people. The first ascent to Huantsán was performed by the team of Tom de Booy, Cees Egeler and Lionel Terray in 1952, who reached the main summit via the north summit. Huantsán and the Cordillera Blanca are protected within Huascarán National Park since 1975.


See also

* Cashan *
Shacsha Shacsha, Shaqsha, (possibly from Ancash Quechua for jingle bell / a typical dancer of the Ancash Region), Huantsán Chico or Huanchan is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about high, (other sources cite a height of ). It ...
*
Uruashraju Uruashraju (possibly from the regional Quechua spelling, ''urwa'' infertile, sterile; corn plant without corncob used as fodder, ''rahu'' snow, ice, mountain with snow) or Verdecocha (possibly from Spanish ''verde'' green, Quechua ''qucha'' lake, ...
* Huamashraju *
List of mountains in the Andes A sortable list of mountains above 4,000 metres in the South American Andes. Considerations The list is an incomplete list of mountains in the Andes. There are many named and unnamed peaks in the Andes that are currently not included in this lis ...
* List of Ultras of South America


References


External links


"Huantsan, Peru" on Peakbagger
Mountains of the Department of Ancash Six-thousanders of the Andes {{Ancash-geo-stub