Hisham's Palace
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Hisham's Palace ( '), also known as Khirbat al-Mafjar (), is an important early Islamic
archaeological site An archaeological site is a place (or group of physical sites) in which evidence of past activity is preserved (either prehistoric or recorded history, historic or contemporary), and which has been, or may be, investigated using the discipline ...
in the city of
Jericho Jericho ( ; , ) is a city in the West Bank, Palestine, and the capital of the Jericho Governorate. Jericho is located in the Jordan Valley, with the Jordan River to the east and Jerusalem to the west. It had a population of 20,907 in 2017. F ...
, in the
West Bank The West Bank is located on the western bank of the Jordan River and is the larger of the two Palestinian territories (the other being the Gaza Strip) that make up the State of Palestine. A landlocked territory near the coast of the Mediter ...
. Built by the Umayyad dynasty in the first half of the 8th century, it is one of the so-called Umayyad desert castles. It is located north of Jericho's city center, in an area governed by the
Palestinian National Authority The Palestinian Authority (PA), officially known as the Palestinian National Authority (PNA), is the Fatah-controlled government body that exercises partial civil control over the Palestinian enclaves in the Israeli-occupied West Bank as a c ...
(PNA). The palace was used until the 11th century, and it may have been destroyed by an earthquake in 1033. Spreading over , the site consists of three main parts: a palace, an ornate bath complex, and an agricultural estate. The entire complex - palace, baths, and farm - was connected by an elaborate water system to nearby springs. The site is on the tentative list of World Heritage Sites and has been open to the public since 2021.


Excavation history

The site was discovered in 1873. The northern area of the site was noted, but not excavated, in 1894 by F. J. Bliss, but the major source of archaeological information comes from the excavations of Palestinian archaeologist Dimitri Baramki between 1934 and 1948. In 1959 Baramki's colleague, colonial administrator for the British Mandate government Robert Hamilton, published the major work on Hisham's Palace, ''Khirbat al-Mafjar: An Arabian Mansion in the Jordanian Valley.'' Unfortunately, Baramki's archaeological research is absent from this volume, so Hamilton's analysis is exclusively art historical. Baramki's research on the archaeological aspects of the site, particularly the ceramics, was published in various preliminary reports and articles in the '' Quarterly of the Department of Antiquities in Palestine''. Many of the finds from Baramki and Hamilton's excavations are now held in the Rockefeller Archeological Museum in
East Jerusalem East Jerusalem (, ; , ) is the portion of Jerusalem that was Jordanian annexation of the West Bank, held by Jordan after the 1948 Arab–Israeli War, as opposed to West Jerusalem, which was held by Israel. Captured and occupied in 1967, th ...
. A program for restoration and rehabilitation was launched in 1996 in cooperation with UNESCO and Studium Biblicum Francescanum. This resulted in updated topographic map and a masterplan which focused on the restoration of the mosaic of the sirdab (the small bath). In 2006, new excavations were initiated out under Dr. Hamdan Taha of the Palestinian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities. Current research is being conducted by the Jericho Mafjar Project, a collaboration between the ministry and archaeologists from the
University of Chicago The University of Chicago (UChicago, Chicago, or UChi) is a Private university, private research university in Chicago, Illinois, United States. Its main campus is in the Hyde Park, Chicago, Hyde Park neighborhood on Chicago's South Side, Chic ...
. In 2015, an agreement was signed between the Palestinian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities and the
Japan International Cooperation Agency The Japan International Cooperation Agency (), also known as JICA'','' is a governmental agency that delivers the bulk of Official Development Assistance (ODA) for the government of Japan. It is chartered with assisting economic and social gr ...
to enable the mosaic in the palace, one of the largest in the world, to be uncovered and readied for display.


History

It is difficult to establish a secure historical framework for Hisham's Palace. No textual sources reference the site, and archaeological excavations are the only source of further information. An
ostracon An ostracon (Greek language, Greek: ''ostrakon'', plural ''ostraka'') is a piece of pottery, usually broken off from a vase or other earthenware vessel. In an archaeology, archaeological or epigraphy, epigraphical context, ''ostraca'' refer ...
bearing the name "Hisham" was found during the course of Baramki's excavations. This was interpreted as evidence that the site was built during the reign of the
caliph A caliphate ( ) is an institution or public office under the leadership of an Islamic steward with Khalifa, the title of caliph (; , ), a person considered a political–religious successor to the Islamic prophet Muhammad and a leader of ...
Hishām ibn ʿAbd al-Malik. Robert Hamilton subsequently argued that the palace was a residence of al-Walid ibn Yazid, a nephew of Hisham who was famous for his extravagant lifestyle. Archaeologically it is certain that the site is a product of the Umayyad dynasty in the first half of the 8th century, although the specifics of its patronage and use remain unknown. As an archaeological site, Hisham's Palace belongs to the category of
desert castles The desert castles or ''qasrs'' are often called Umayyad desert castles, since the vast majority of these fortified palaces or castles were built by the Umayyad dynasty in their province of Bilad ash-Sham, with a few Abbasid exceptions. The des ...
, a collection of monuments dating to the Umayyad dynasty and found throughout Syria, Jordan, Israel, and Palestine. Although there is great variation in the size, location, and presumed function of these different sites, they can be connected to the patronage of different figures in the Umayyad ruling family. Some of the desert castles, for example Qasr Hallabat or Qasr Burqu, represent Islamic occupations of earlier Roman or
Ghassanid The Ghassanids, also known as the Jafnids, were an Arab tribe. Originally from South Arabia, they migrated to the Levant in the 3rd century and established what would eventually become a Christian kingdom under the aegis of the Byzantine Empi ...
structures. Other sites like Qastal, Qasr Azraq, or al-Muwaqqar are associated with trade routes and scarce water resources. With a few exceptions, the desert castles conform to a common template consisting of a square palace similar to Roman forts, a bath house, water reservoir or dam, and often an agricultural enclosure. Various interpretations for the desert castles exist, and it is unlikely that one single theory can explain the variety observed in the archaeological record. The site is commonly thought to have been destroyed during the earthquake of 749 and then abandoned, but an analysis of Baramki's detailed reporting shows that this is incorrect. Instead the ceramic record indicates that the occupation continued through the
Ayyubid The Ayyubid dynasty (), also known as the Ayyubid Sultanate, was the founding dynasty of the medieval Sultan of Egypt, Sultanate of Egypt established by Saladin in 1171, following his abolition of the Fatimid Caliphate, Fatimid Caliphate of Egyp ...
-
Mamluk Mamluk or Mamaluk (; (singular), , ''mamālīk'' (plural); translated as "one who is owned", meaning "slave") were non-Arab, ethnically diverse (mostly Turkic, Caucasian, Eastern and Southeastern European) enslaved mercenaries, slave-so ...
period, with a significant phase of occupation between 900 and 1000 during the Abbasid and
Fatimid The Fatimid Caliphate (; ), also known as the Fatimid Empire, was a caliphate extant from the tenth to the twelfth centuries CE under the rule of the Fatimid dynasty, Fatimids, an Isma'ili Shi'a dynasty. Spanning a large area of North Africa ...
periods. Further excavations will no doubt contribute to a more detailed picture of the site's continued use through different periods. A 2013 geological investigation of the site suggest the palace was destroyed by the later earthquake of 1033.Alfonsi & Cinti 2013 Evidence of faulting and damage corresponded to a more severe earthquake than that of 749.


Architecture

The palace, bath complex, and external mosque are enclosed by a retaining wall. The southern gate was known from Baramki's excavations, but the 21st-century discovery of a northern gate in alignment indicates that the development of Hisham's Palace was conceived of as a complete unit to be constructed at once.


Palace

The largest building at the site is the palace, a roughly square building with round towers at the corners. It originally had two stories. Entrance was through a gate on the center of the east side. The inner rooms were aligned around a central paved portico ( riwaq), which featured an underground cellar ( sirdab); for refuge from the heat. The room to the south of the portico was a mosque with a
mihrab ''Mihrab'' (, ', pl. ') is a niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the ''qibla'', the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca towards which Muslims should face when praying. The wall in which a ''mihrab'' appears is thus the "''qibla'' wall". ...
built into the outer wall.


Outer pavilion and mosque

In the courtyard east of the palace-and-baths complex was a pavilion containing a monumental fountain. A second, larger mosque was located inside the complex, north of the palace gateway.Baer, "Khirbat al-Mafjar"


Bath complex

The bath complex is located just north of the palace across an open area. This free-standing structure is almost 30 meters square, more precisely , and three of its sides feature semi-circular exedrae which project out from the building, three each to the south and west, and two to the east. The east face of the bath had an ornate entrance in its center, flanked by exedrae. Along much of the southern side of the main, square hall is a pool. The interior floor surface of the bath complex was paved with mosaic decoration. A special reception room, or '' diwan'', was entered from the northwest corner. The floor of this room is paved with the famous "
tree of life The tree of life is a fundamental archetype in many of the world's mythology, mythological, religion, religious, and philosophy, philosophical traditions. It is closely related to the concept of the sacred tree.Giovino, Mariana (2007). ''The ...
" mosaic, depicting a lion and gazelles at the foot of a tree. The actual bathing rooms were attached to the northern wall of the complex, and were heated from below the floor by
hypocaust A hypocaust () is a system of central heating in a building that produces and circulates hot air below the floor of a room, and may also warm the walls with a series of pipes through which the hot air passes. This air can warm the upper floors a ...
s.


Agricultural annex

To the north of the bath complex are the ruins of a large square structure which has clearly gone through many phases of reuse and reconstruction. This part of the site was initially assumed to be a ''khan'' or
caravanserai A caravanserai (or caravansary; ) was an inn that provided lodging for travelers, merchants, and Caravan (travellers), caravans. They were present throughout much of the Islamic world. Depending on the region and period, they were called by a ...
, but recent excavations have indicated that the northern area had an agricultural function connected to the ''hayr'' or agricultural enclosure during the Umayyad and
Abbasid The Abbasid Caliphate or Abbasid Empire (; ) was the third caliphate to succeed the prophets and messengers in Islam, Islamic prophet Muhammad. It was founded by a dynasty descended from Muhammad's uncle, Abbas ibn Abd al-Muttalib (566–653 C ...
periods.


Photo gallery

File:Hishams Palace window Author MDarter.jpg, Decorated stone window File:Hishams Palace placard toilet Author MDarter.jpg, Bath house latrine File:Hishams Palace placard Author MDarter.JPG, Information plaque


Decorative elements

The decorative elements at Hisham's Palace are some of the finest representations of Umayyad period art and are well documented in the publications of Robert Hamilton.


Mosaics

The floor of the main bathing hall is covered with colorful geometric mosaics, at the center of which is a large kaleidoscope design. The enormous mosaic is divided into 25 square bays that are separated by pier clusters. A large variety of geometric designs cover the floor, which are rarely repeated. The colors used are primarily blue, red, green, yellow, and orange. After years of restoration funded by Japan, the mosaic covering , one of the largest floor mosaics in the world, with more than five million distinctive pieces of stone from Palestine, was unveiled in October 2021. This floor mosaic is one of the largest that has survived from the ancient world. The most famous mosaic at the site is the "Tree of Life" mosaic in the ''diwan'', or the private audience room, located in the northwestern corner of the main bathing hall. The pavement mosaic depicts a fruiting tree with two unknowing gazelles on the left side and a lion attacking another gazelle on the right side. It is a popular design throughout Islamic history in places like Northern Syria and Transjordan, and has been a popular topic of conversation as there are numerous theories related to its meaning. One idea is that the mosaic represents the peace that the caliph brought with his military prowess. Another idea stems from the border of the mosaic, which resembles the tassels of a curtain or drape. During the Umayyad, Abbasid, and Fatimid periods, court accounts recall that the caliphs sat behind curtains from where they appeared at specified moments in various rituals. The tassels that border the "Tree of Life" mosaic may suggest that the scene of the lion and gazelles should be understood through a lens of intimacy. All of the mosaics found at Hisham's Palace are of very high quality and feature a wide variety of colors and figural motifs.


Carved stucco

The carved stucco found at the site is also of exceptional quality. Of particular note is the statue depicting a male figure with a sword, often presumed to be the caliph, which stood in a niche above the entrance to the bath hall. Additional male and female figures carved in stucco, some semi-nude, adorn the bath complex. Geometric and vegetal patterns are also quite common. While Hamilton described the carvings at Hisham's Palace as amateurish and chaotic, many subsequent art historians have noted similarities with Iranian themes. Hana Taragan has argued that the artistic themes seen at the site are Levantine examples of an Islamic visual language of power that coalesced from Sasanian influences in Iraq. Priscilla Soucek has also drawn attention to the site's representation of the Islamic myth of Solomon.


Photo gallery

File:Rockefeller Museum P1120446 (7138881721).jpg, Decorations (mainly stucco),
Rockefeller Museum The Rockefeller Archeological Museum, formerly the Palestine Archaeological Museum ("PAM"; 1938–1967), is an archaeology museum located in East Jerusalem, next to Herod's Gate, that houses a large collection of artifacts unearthed in the exca ...
, Jerusalem File:PikiWiki Israel 66624 at the rockefeller museum in jerusalem.jpg, Male figure with a sword, often presumed to be the caliph File:Hisham's Palace (Khirbat al Mafjar) remains at the Rockefeller Museum IMG 7191.JPG, Carved stucco example File:Hisham's Palace (Khirbat al Mafjar) remains at the Rockefeller Museum IMG 7182.JPG, Semi-nude female figure File:Hisham's Palace (Khirbat al Mafjar) remains at the Rockefeller Museum IMG 7188.JPG, Panel


Conservation

According to Global Heritage Fund (GHF), the rapid urban development of Jericho, as well as expansion of agricultural activity in the area, are limiting archaeologists' access to the site, much of which remain unexplored. Conservation efforts aimed at protecting important structures have been hindered by lack of resources. In a 2010 report titled '' Saving Our Vanishing Heritage'', GHF identified Hisham's Palace as one of 12 worldwide heritage sites most "On the Verge" of irreparable loss and destruction. Hamdan Taha of the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities has published reports concerning the preservation of this and other sites in the Jericho region. In 2020, it was added to the tentative list of World Heritage Sites in Palestine. In 2021, the restoration of the bath complex's 835-square-meter mosaic floor was completed, at a cost of 12 million USD and with Japanese funding, with a dome-shaped shelter protecting the mosaics, which was designed and executed by a Japanese architecture office.''The Project for the Construction of the Protective Shelter and the Presentation of the Great Bath at Hisham's Palace, Jericho''
Matsuda Consultants International Co., accessed 26 May 2022.
The mosaics can be viewed from walkways suspended over the floor.


Tourism

Hisham's Palace is one of the most important Islamic monuments in Palestine, and is a major attraction for both visitors and Palestinians. In 2010, according to figures collected by the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, the site received 43,455 visitors. The site is a common field trip destination for Palestinian schoolchildren. Foreign visitors who enter Palestine through the nearby Allenby Bridge often make Hisham's Palace their first stop. The site has been visited by foreign dignitaries, and was the set for a production of Shakespeare's ''Richard II'' in 2012. Since 2021, the mosaic floor of the bath complex has been opened to the public after the completion of restoration and preservation work and the building of a shelter provided with walkways placed above the floor.


See also

*
Desert castles The desert castles or ''qasrs'' are often called Umayyad desert castles, since the vast majority of these fortified palaces or castles were built by the Umayyad dynasty in their province of Bilad ash-Sham, with a few Abbasid exceptions. The des ...


References


Bibliography

* *Baer, Eva. "Khirbat al-Mafjar." ''Encyclopaedia of Islam'' 2nd ed. * * * Bliss, F.J. (1894) "Notes on the Plain of Jericho." ''Palestinian Exploration Fund Quarterly Statement''. 175–183. * Bacharach, Jere. (1996) "Marwanid Umayyad Building Activities: Speculations on Patronage." ''Muqarnas'' Vol. 13: 27–44. * * * Hamilton, Robert W. (1988) ''Walid and his Friends: An Umayyad Tragedy'' Oxford: Oxford University Press. *Soucek, Priscilla. (1993) "Solomon's Throne/Solomon's Bath: Model or Metaphor." ''Ars Orientalis'' Vol. 23: 109–134. *Taha, Hamdan. (2005) "Rehabilitation of Hisham's Palace in Jericho." in F. Maniscalco ed. ''Tutela, Conservazione e Valorizzazione del Patrimonio Culturale della Palestina.'' Naples. 179–188. * *Taragan, Hana. (2003) "Atlas Transformed--Interpreting the 'Supporting Figures' in the Umayyad Palace at Khirbat al-Mafjar." ''East and West'' Vol. 53: 9–29. *Whitcomb, Donald. (1988
"Khirbat al-Mafjar Reconsidered: The Ceramic Evidence"
''Bulletin of the American Schools of Oriental Research'' 271: 51–67. * * *


Further reading

* Hamilton, Robert W. (1959) ''Khirbat al-Mafjar: An Arabian Mansion in the Jordan Valley'' Oxford: Oxford UP. *Whitcomb, Donald and Taha, Hamdan. (2014
The Mosaics of Khirbet el-Mafjar Hisham's Palace


External links


The Jericho Mafjar ProjectKhirbat al-Mafjar
at ArchNet.
Photos of Khirbat al Mafjar
at the
Manar al-Athar Manar al-Athar is a photo archive based at the Faculty of Classics at the University of Oxford which aims to provide high-quality open-access images of archaeological sites and buildings. The archive's collection focuses on areas of the Roman Em ...
photo archive {{Authority control Umayyad palaces Umayyad architecture in Palestine Archaeological sites in the West Bank Buildings and structures in Jericho History of Jericho