Gérald Genta

Gérald Charles Genta (1 May 1931 – 17 August 2011) was a Swiss watchmaker and artist. He is known for his eponymous line of timepieces Gerald Genta, and his company Gerald Charles, as well as his design work with other high-end watch manufacturers, including IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Genta created the Patek Phillipe ''Nautilus'' and the Audemars Piguet ''Royal Oak'', to date the best-selling models of both houses. In addition, at age 23, he designed the Universal Geneve Polerouter, with the first commercially available Microrotor movement for SAS airlines. He is regarded as one of the most influential people in the history of horology.

Christie's auction house of New York has called Genta's work ''"the Fabergé of watches"'', while ''The Wall Street Journal'' has called them the ''"world's most complicated and pricey watches"''.

Early life

Genta was born in Geneva to a Swiss mother and father of Piemonte (Northern Italian) descent. At age 20, Genta finished jewellery and goldsmith training in Switzerland, earning his Swiss Federal Diploma.

Starting career with Universal Genève

Subsequently, Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, at the time one of the most recognized manufactures in both the U.S. and Europe for its chronograph models. After Universal Genève settled a patent dispute involving the micro-rotor caliber, Genta designed Universal's Polerouter Microtors in the 1950s, as well as the Golden and White Shadows during the mid-1960s. The Shadows contained a micro-rotor, unisonic and accutron movement, the latter two a result of the quartz crisis starting in the late 1960s.

Notable watch designs

Genta's work with Universal would be a precursor to future collaborations with other brands in Switzerland and throughout Europe, including Omega's ''Constellation'' (1959); Patek Philippe's ''Golden Ellipse'' (1968). Audemars Piguet's ''Royal Oak'' (1970), IWC's ''Ingenieur'' (1976); Patek Philippe's ''Nautilus'' (1976); and Cartier's ''Pasha de Cartier'' (1985).

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

One of Genta's most recognisable designs was that of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which was considered to be the first luxury sports watch in the world. The watch was inspired by traditional diving helmets and therefore featured exposed screw heads as well as a unique case design. The watch also featured an integrated bracelet.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

In 1976, Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus collection, designed by Genta, after deciding it was time to produce a high quality sport watch. The first model was Ref. 3700 and was made of steel. The Nautilus was released by Patek Philippe during the quartz crisis in the hope that it would help re-attract people's attention to high-end Swiss mechanical watches.

The Nautilus collection played a key role in Patek Philippe's overall marketing strategy as it had to refresh the brand image while perpetuating tradition. The target was represented by dynamic business managers of the new generations. The Nautilus wristwatch has become one of the most popular collections from Patek Philippe, and the Ref. 5711 & 5712 models, which the company introduced in 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the collection, are among the most popular models. Today the model Ref - 5711 has become a true icon of success and style as it is adorned by various famous celebrities and sports stars.

IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur SL "Jumbo" Ref.1832

Designed by Gerald Genta in 1974 and manufactured by IWC Schaffhausen in 1976, the Ingenieur SL Automatic Ref. 1832 is considered one of the most sought-after watches in IWC’s history. As part of IWC’s SL collection of luxury steel sports watches launched in the 1970s, the timepiece became known and appreciated for both its strong aesthetic codes and technical refinements: rubber buffers absorbed heavy shocks and impacts, while a soft iron inner case protected the automatic movement caliber 8541 from strong magnetic fields. Due to its large size and an impressive case diameter of 40 mm, which was particularly unique for its time, the Ingenieur SL was soon known among watch aficionados as the “Jumbo”.

Gerald Genta created the Ingenieur SL during the quartz crisis, a challenging period for IWC and the entire watch industry. At that time, the watch manufacturer aimed at expanding its product portfolio to include more mechanical watches in stainless steel. Genta was commissioned to find a new visual identity for IWC’s Ingenieur, the manufacturer’s first anti-magnetic watch for civilian use developed in the 1950s. In his design of the new, robust Ingenieur model in stainless steel, Genta successfully highlighted its distinctive technical character. The watch’s integrated H-link bracelet, structured dial and, above all, the screw-on bezel with five recesses became the Ingenieur SL’s trademark features.

Eponymous brand & Designs

After starting his own brand in 1969, Genta would create the sonneries, among them the Gérald Genta ''Octo Granda Sonnerie Tourbillion'', which contained four gongs and an emulated Westminster Quarters bell ring at each quarter and on the hour, "the same melody rung out by London's Big Ben", and priced at $810,200. In 1994, he designed the ''Grande Sonnerie Retro'', the world's most complicated wristwatch, and priced at approximately $2 million. For private requests, Genta hand-designed the movements, dials and cases of his timepieces and employed limited or no external assistance, outsourcing or mechanization during the process; it was not unusual for a single watch to take up to 5 years to complete.

During the 1980s, Genta obtained special licensing with The Walt Disney Company and distributed a limited edition of Disney character watches to the public; previously, they had been an unofficial private request by one of Genta's repeat customers. The dials consisted of illustrations of Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck, Scrooge and Goofy, with cases made of 18 carat gold. Designed in Le Brassus

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