Eilean Mòr, Flannan Isles
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The Flannan Isles () or the Seven Hunters are a small
island group An archipelago ( ), sometimes called an island group or island chain, is a chain, cluster, or collection of islands. An archipelago may be in an ocean, a sea, or a smaller body of water. Example archipelagos include the Aegean Islands (the o ...
in the
Outer Hebrides The Outer Hebrides ( ) or Western Isles ( , or ), sometimes known as the Long Isle or Long Island (), is an Archipelago, island chain off the west coast of mainland Scotland. It is the longest archipelago in the British Isles. The islan ...
of
Scotland Scotland is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It contains nearly one-third of the United Kingdom's land area, consisting of the northern part of the island of Great Britain and more than 790 adjac ...
, approximately west of the
Isle of Lewis The Isle of Lewis () or simply Lewis () is the northern part of Lewis and Harris, the largest island of the Western Isles or Outer Hebrides archipelago in Scotland. The two parts are frequently referred to as if they were separate islands. The t ...
. They may take their name from
Saint Flannan In Christian belief, a saint is a person who is recognized as having an exceptional degree of holiness, likeness, or closeness to God. However, the use of the term ''saint'' depends on the context and denomination. In Anglican, Oriental Ort ...
, the 7th century Irish preacher and
abbot Abbot is an ecclesiastical title given to the head of an independent monastery for men in various Western Christian traditions. The name is derived from ''abba'', the Aramaic form of the Hebrew ''ab'', and means "father". The female equivale ...
. The islands have been devoid of permanent residents since the automation of
Flannan Isles Lighthouse Flannan Isles Lighthouse is a lighthouse near the highest point on Eilean Mòr, one of the Flannan Isles in the Outer Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. In 1900, its three keepers disappeared in mysterious circumstances. History The lig ...
in 1971.Nicholson (1995) pp. 168–79.


Geography

The islands are split into three groups: the main cluster of rocks that lie to the northeast include the two principal islands of (Big Isle), which is approximately in extent, and (House Isle). To the south lie ''Soray/Soraigh'' (Old Norse ''Suðurey'', south island or ''Sauðurey'', sheep's island) and (probably from Old Norse ''sker,'' skerry, shallow rock in sea, and Gaelic ''tuaman'', grave or mound); while the main western outcrops are (Isle of the Blacksmith), ''Roaireim'' (which has a natural rock arch), and (Sad Sunk Rock). The total land area amounts to approximately and the highest point is above sea level on Eilean Mòr. The geology consists of a dark
breccia Breccia ( , ; ) is a rock composed of large angular broken fragments of minerals or Rock (geology), rocks cementation (geology), cemented together by a fine-grained matrix (geology), matrix. The word has its origins in the Italian language ...
of
gabbros Gabbro ( ) is a phaneritic (coarse-grained and magnesium- and iron-rich), mafic intrusive igneous rock formed from the slow cooling magma into a holocrystalline mass deep beneath the Earth's surface. Slow-cooling, coarse-grained gabbro is chemi ...
and
dolerite Diabase (), also called dolerite () or microgabbro, is a mafic, holocrystalline, subvolcanic rock equivalent to volcanic basalt or plutonic gabbro. Diabase dikes and sills are typically shallow intrusive bodies and often exhibit fine-grain ...
s intruding Archaean
gneiss Gneiss (pronounced ) is a common and widely distributed type of metamorphic rock. It is formed by high-temperature and high-pressure metamorphic processes acting on formations composed of igneous or sedimentary rocks. This rock is formed under p ...
. In prehistoric times, the area was covered by ice sheets that spread from Scotland out into the
Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second largest of the world's five borders of the oceans, oceanic divisions, with an area of about . It covers approximately 17% of Earth#Surface, Earth's surface and about 24% of its water surface area. During the ...
. After the last retreat of the ice circa 20,000 years BP, sea levels were as much as lower than at present and it is likely that the existing islands were part of a much larger land mass, although still separated from the
Outer Hebrides The Outer Hebrides ( ) or Western Isles ( , or ), sometimes known as the Long Isle or Long Island (), is an Archipelago, island chain off the west coast of mainland Scotland. It is the longest archipelago in the British Isles. The islan ...
by many miles of open water. Steadily rising sea levels thereafter would have reduced the land remaining above sea level to its present extent. There are two possible landing places for boats visiting to the east and west, although this may be hazardous given the regular heavy swells.


History

As the name implies, Eilean Taighe hosts a ruined stone shelter. Eilean Mòr is home to the lighthouse and a ruined
chapel A chapel (from , a diminutive of ''cappa'', meaning "little cape") is a Christianity, Christian place of prayer and worship that is usually relatively small. The term has several meanings. First, smaller spaces inside a church that have their o ...
dedicated to Saint Flannán, which the lighthouse keepers referred to as the "dog kennel" because of its small size. These ruined bothies were described collectively by the ''Ancient Monuments Commission'' as The Bothies of the Clan McPhail,"Flannan Isles Lighthouse"
, Northern Lighthouse Board website; retrieved 23 March 2008.
or Bothain Chlann ‘ic Phaill.. Charles Tait photographic Ltd. Retrieved 23 March 2008. It is not entirely clear to which St Flannan the chapel pays honours. It is likely that the honoree was either the 7th-century Abbot of Killaloe, County Clare, Ireland, or alternatively, the half brother of the eighth century St Ronan, who gave his name to the nearby island of
North Rona Rona () is an uninhabited Scottish island in the North Atlantic. It is often referred to as North Rona to distinguish it from the island of South Rona in the Inner Hebrides. It has an area of and a maximum elevation of . It is the most isolat ...
. There was also a certain Flann, son of an Abbot of
Iona Iona (; , sometimes simply ''Ì'') is an island in the Inner Hebrides, off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland. It is mainly known for Iona Abbey, though there are other buildings on the island. Iona Abbey was a centre of Gaeli ...
, called Maol-duine, who died in 890 and may also have lent his name to these isolated isles. The
archipelago An archipelago ( ), sometimes called an island group or island chain, is a chain, cluster, or collection of islands. An archipelago may be in an ocean, a sea, or a smaller body of water. Example archipelagos include the Aegean Islands (the o ...
is also known as ''The Seven Hunters''. During the
Middle Ages In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the 5th to the late 15th centuries, similarly to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire and ...
, they also may have been called the ''Seven Haley (Holy) Isles''.
Martin Martin Martin Martin (Scottish Gaelic: Màrtainn MacGilleMhàrtainn) (–9 October 1718) was a Scotland, Scottish writer best known for his work ''A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland (Martin), A Description of the Western Islands of Scotlan ...
(1703) lists a number of unusual customs associated with regular pilgrimages to Eilean Mòr, such as removing one's hat and making a
sunwise Sunwise, sunward or deasil (sometimes spelled ''deosil''), are terms meaning to go clockwise or in the direction of the sun, as seen from the Northern Hemisphere. The opposite term is ''widdershins'' (Middle Low German), or ''tuathal'' (Scottish ...
turn when reaching the plateau.


Wildlife

The isles provide nesting for a population of
seabird Seabirds (also known as marine birds) are birds that are adaptation, adapted to life within the marine ecosystem, marine environment. While seabirds vary greatly in lifestyle, behaviour and physiology, they often exhibit striking convergent ...
s, including
Atlantic puffin The Atlantic puffin ('), also known as the common puffin, is a species of seabird in the auk family (biology), family. It is the only puffin native to the Atlantic Ocean; two related species, the tufted puffin and the horned puffin being found ...
s,
northern fulmar The northern fulmar (''Fulmarus glacialis''), fulmar, or Arctic fulmar is an abundant seabird found primarily in subarctic regions of the North Atlantic and North Pacific oceans. There has been one confirmed sighting in the Southern Hemisphere, ...
s,
European storm-petrel The European storm petrel (''Hydrobates pelagicus''), also known as British storm petrel, or just storm petrel, is a species of seabird in the northern storm petrel family, Hydrobatidae. The small, square-tailed bird is entirely black except fo ...
s,
Leach's petrel Leach's storm petrel or Leach's petrel (''Hydrobates leucorhous'') is a small seabird of the tubenose order. It is named after the British zoologist William Elford Leach. The scientific name is derived from Ancient Greek. ''Hydrobates'' is from ...
s,
common shag The European shag or common shag (''Gulosus aristotelis'') is a species of cormorant. It is the only member of the monotypic genus ''Gulosus''. It breeds around the rocky coasts of western and southern Europe, southwest Asia and north Africa, mai ...
, and black-legged kittiwakes. There is a
gannet Gannets are seabirds comprising the genus ''Morus'' in the family Sulidae, closely related to boobies. They are known as 'solan' or 'solan goose' in Scotland. A common misconception is that the Scottish name is 'guga' but this is the Gaelic n ...
ry on Roaireim. From the late
Middle Ages In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the 5th to the late 15th centuries, similarly to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire and ...
on, Lewismen regularly raided these nests for eggs, birds, and feathers. There is a population of
rabbits Rabbits are small mammals in the family Leporidae (which also includes the hares), which is in the order Lagomorpha (which also includes pikas). They are familiar throughout the world as a small herbivore, a prey animal, a domesticated form ...
, brought to the islands by the lighthouse keepers, and crofters from Bernera graze sheep on the most fertile islands. Minke and
pilot whales Pilot whales are cetaceans belonging to the genus ''Globicephala''. The two extant species are the long-finned pilot whale (''G. melas'') and the short-finned pilot whale (''G. macrorhynchus''). The two are not readily distinguishable at sea, a ...
, as well as Risso's and other species of
dolphin A dolphin is an aquatic mammal in the cetacean clade Odontoceti (toothed whale). Dolphins belong to the families Delphinidae (the oceanic dolphins), Platanistidae (the Indian river dolphins), Iniidae (the New World river dolphins), Pontopori ...
, are commonly observed in the vicinity. The islands became a
Site of Special Scientific Interest A Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in Great Britain, or an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) in the Isle of Man and Northern Ireland, is a conservation designation denoting a protected area in the United Kingdom and Isle ...
in December 1983. The archipelago has been designated an
Important Bird Area An Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) is an area identified using an internationally agreed set of criteria as being globally important for the conservation of bird populations. IBA was developed and sites are identified by BirdLife Int ...
(IBA) by
BirdLife International BirdLife International is a global partnership of non-governmental organizations that strives to conserve birds and their habitats. BirdLife International's priorities include preventing extinction of bird species, identifying and safeguarding i ...
because it supports breeding populations of several species of
seabird Seabirds (also known as marine birds) are birds that are adaptation, adapted to life within the marine ecosystem, marine environment. While seabirds vary greatly in lifestyle, behaviour and physiology, they often exhibit striking convergent ...
s.


Lighthouse crew disappearance

In December 1900, all three lighthouse keepers vanished in mysterious circumstances. An official inquiry concluded that the three men had probably been swept away and lost at sea in rough weather while attending some equipment near the cliff edge.


In fiction

The Flannan Isles are the main setting in Robert W. Sneddons's short story ''On the Isle of Blue Men'' which was first published in ''
Ghost Stories A ghost story is any piece of fiction, or drama, that includes a ghost, or simply takes as a premise the possibility of ghosts or characters' belief in them."Ghost Stories" in Margaret Drabble (ed.), ''Oxford Companion to English Literature''. ...
'' magazine in April 1927. The Scottish-American author's "atmospheric,
Lovecraftian Lovecraftian horror, also called cosmic horror or eldritch horror, is a subgenre of horror, fantasy fiction and weird fiction that emphasizes the horror of the unknowable and incomprehensible more than gore or other elements of shock. It is na ...
thriller" was reissued by
Charles G. Waugh Charles is a masculine given name predominantly found in English and French speaking countries. It is from the French form ''Charles'' of the Proto-Germanic name (in runic alphabet) or ''*karilaz'' (in Latin alphabet), whose meaning was ...
with an alternate ending based on an older story by Sneddon in the ''Lighthouse Horrors'' anthology in 1993.
Neil Gunn Neil Miller Gunn (8 November 1891 – 15 January 1973) was a prolific Scottish novelist, critic, and dramatist who emerged as one of the leading lights of the Scottish Renaissance of the 1920s and 1930s. With over twenty novels to his credi ...
's epic novel ''The Silver Darlings'' published in 1941 describes a visit to the islands.Gunn, Neil (1945) ''The Silver Darlings'' George W. Stewart. New York. Chapter 15. Eilean Mòr in particular also features prominently as the location of a murder central to the plot of ''Coffin Road'', a 2016 novel by Peter May. ''The Vanishing'', a 2019 film starring
Gerard Butler Gerard James Butler (born 13 November 1969) is a Scottish actor and film producer. After studying law, he turned to acting in the mid-1990s with small roles in productions such as '' Mrs Brown'' (1997), the James Bond film ''Tomorrow Never ...
and
Peter Mullan Peter Mullan (; born 1959) is a Scottish actor and filmmaker. His credits include '' Riff-Raff'' (1991), '' Shallow Grave'' (1994), ''Braveheart'' (1995), '' Trainspotting'' (1996), '' My Name Is Joe'' (1998), '' The Claim'' (2000), '' Neds'' ( ...
, is set on the isles and inspired by the infamous disappearances.


See also

*
List of islands of Scotland This is a list of islands of Scotland, the mainland of which is part of the island of Great Britain. Also included are various other related tables and lists. The definition of an offshore island used in this list is "land that is surrounded by ...


References

*McCloskey, Keith. (1 July 2014) "The Lighthouse: The Mystery of the Eilean Mor Lighthouse Keepers", Stroud, the History Press. *Elliott, Angela J (1 April 2005)"Some Strange Scent of Death", Dunbeath, Whittles Publishing. *Bathhurst, Bella. (2000) ''The Lighthouse Stevensons''. London. Flamingo. * *Harvie-Brown, J. A. & Buckley, T. E. (1889), ''A Vertebrate Fauna of the Outer Hebrides.'' Edinburgh. David Douglas. * Martin, Martin (1703)
A Description of the Western Isles of Scotland including A Voyage to St. Kilda
' Retrieved 8 October 2008. * Murray, W.H. (1973) ''The Islands of Western Scotland.'' London. Eyre Methuen. SBN 413303802 *Munro, R.W. (1979) ''Scottish Lighthouses''. Stornoway. Thule Press. *Nicholson, Christopher. (1995) ''Rock Lighthouses of Britain: The End of an Era?'' Caithness. Whittles. *Perrot, D. ''et al.'' (1995) ''The Outer Hebrides Handbook and Guide.'' Machynlleth. Kittiwake.


Notes


External links


Northern Lighthouse Board information about Flannan Isles lighthouse
* ttp://www.mikedash.com/extras/forteana/eilean The Vanishing Lighthousemen of Eilean Mór Investigative paper based on primary sources {{good article Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Western Isles North Important Bird Areas of the Outer Hebrides Uninhabited islands of the Outer Hebrides Archipelagoes of Scotland