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castle A castle is a type of fortification, fortified structure built during the Middle Ages predominantly by the nobility or royalty and by Military order (monastic society), military orders. Scholars usually consider a ''castle'' to be the private ...
that was built in 1457 by ÅŒta DÅkan in Edo, Toshima District,
Musashi Province was a Provinces of Japan, province of Japan, which today comprises Tokyo, Tokyo Metropolis, most of Saitama Prefecture and part of Kanagawa Prefecture. It was sometimes called . The province encompassed Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Kawasaki and Yokohama. ...
. In modern times it is part of the
Tokyo Imperial Palace is the main residence of the Emperor of Japan. It is a large park-like area located in the Chiyoda, Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda district of the Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda ward of Tokyo and contains several buildings including the where the Emperor h ...
in Chiyoda, Tokyo, and is therefore also known as .
Tokugawa Ieyasu Tokugawa Ieyasu (born Matsudaira Takechiyo; 31 January 1543 – 1 June 1616) was the founder and first ''shÅgun'' of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan, which ruled from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. He was the third of the three "Gr ...
established the
Tokugawa shogunate The Tokugawa shogunate, also known as the was the military government of Japan during the Edo period from 1603 to 1868. The Tokugawa shogunate was established by Tokugawa Ieyasu after victory at the Battle of Sekigahara, ending the civil wars ...
there, and it was the residence of the ''shÅgun'' and the headquarters of the military government during the
Edo period The , also known as the , is the period between 1600 or 1603 and 1868 in the history of Japan, when the country was under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate and some 300 regional ''daimyo'', or feudal lords. Emerging from the chaos of the Sengok ...
(1603–1867) in Japanese history. After the resignation of the ''shÅgun'' and the
Meiji Restoration The , referred to at the time as the , and also known as the Meiji Renovation, Revolution, Regeneration, Reform, or Renewal, was a political event that restored Imperial House of Japan, imperial rule to Japan in 1868 under Emperor Meiji. Althoug ...
, it became the
Tokyo Imperial Palace is the main residence of the Emperor of Japan. It is a large park-like area located in the Chiyoda, Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda district of the Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda ward of Tokyo and contains several buildings including the where the Emperor h ...
. Some
moat A moat is a deep, broad ditch dug around a castle, fortification, building, or town, historically to provide it with a preliminary line of defence. Moats can be dry or filled with water. In some places, moats evolved into more extensive water d ...
s, walls and ramparts of the castle survive to this day. However, the grounds were more extensive during the Edo period, with
Tokyo Station TÅkyÅ Station (, ) is a major railway station in Chiyoda, Tokyo, Japan. The original station is located in Chiyoda's Marunouchi business district near the Tokyo Imperial Palace, Imperial Palace grounds. The newer Eastern extension is not far ...
and the
Marunouchi Marunouchi () is an area in Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda, Tokyo, Japan, located between Tokyo Station and the Kokyo, Imperial Palace. The name, meaning "inside the circle", derives from its location within the palace's outer moat. Marunouchi is the core ...
section of the city lying within the outermost moat. It also encompassed Kitanomaru Park, the Nippon Budokan Hall and other current landmarks of the surrounding area.


History

The warrior Edo Shigetsugu built his residence in what is now the ''Honmaru'' and ''Ninomaru'' part of Edo Castle, around the end of the
Heian period The is the last division of classical Japanese history, running from 794 to 1185. It followed the Nara period, beginning when the 50th emperor, Emperor Kammu, moved the capital of Japan to Heian-kyÅ (modern Kyoto). means in Japanese. It is a ...
(794–1185) or beginning of the
Kamakura period The is a period of History of Japan, Japanese history that marks the governance by the Kamakura shogunate, officially established in 1192 in Kamakura, Kanagawa, Kamakura by the first ''shÅgun'' Minamoto no Yoritomo after the conclusion of the G ...
(1185–1333). The
Edo clan The Edo clan ( Japanese: 江戸æ°, ''Edo-shi'') was a Japanese samurai family who first fortified the settlement known as Edo, which would later become Tokyo. The Imperial Palace now stands at this location.Time Out Tokyo edited by Cathy Phillip ...
left in the 15th century as a result of uprisings in the
KantÅ region The is a geography, geographical region of Honshu, the largest island of Japan. In a common definition, the region includes the Greater Tokyo Area and encompasses seven prefectures of Japan, prefectures: Chiba Prefecture, Chiba, Gunma Prefe ...
, and ÅŒta DÅkan, a retainer of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi family, built Edo Castle in 1457. The castle came under the control of the
Later HÅjÅ clan The was one of the most powerful samurai families in Japan in the Sengoku period and held domains primarily in the KantÅ region. Their last name was simply , but were called "Later HÅjÅ" to differentiate between the earlier HÅjÅ clan who h ...
in 1524 after the
Siege of Edo A siege () . is a military blockade of a city, or fortress, with the intent of conquering by attrition, or by well-prepared assault. Siege warfare (also called siegecrafts or poliorcetics) is a form of constant, low-intensity conflict characte ...
. The castle was vacated in 1590 due to the Siege of Odawara.
Tokugawa Ieyasu Tokugawa Ieyasu (born Matsudaira Takechiyo; 31 January 1543 – 1 June 1616) was the founder and first ''shÅgun'' of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan, which ruled from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. He was the third of the three "Gr ...
made Edo Castle his base after he was offered eight eastern provinces by
Toyotomi Hideyoshi , otherwise known as and , was a Japanese samurai and ''daimyÅ'' (feudal lord) of the late Sengoku period, Sengoku and Azuchi-Momoyama periods and regarded as the second "Great Unifier" of Japan.Richard Holmes, The World Atlas of Warfare: ...
. He later defeated Toyotomi Hideyori, son of Hideyoshi, at the
Siege of Osaka A siege () . is a military blockade of a city, or fortress, with the intent of conquering by attrition, or by well-prepared assault. Siege warfare (also called siegecrafts or poliorcetics) is a form of constant, low-intensity conflict charact ...
in 1615, and emerged as the political leader of Japan. Tokugawa Ieyasu received the title of '' Sei-i TaishÅgun'' in 1603, and Edo became the center of Tokugawa's administration. Initially, parts of the area were lying under water. The sea reached the present ''Nishinomaru'' area of Edo Castle, and Hibiya was a beach. The landscape was changed for the construction of the castle. Most construction started in 1593 and was completed in 1636 under Ieyasu's grandson,
Tokugawa Iemitsu was the third ''shÅgun'' of the Tokugawa shogunate, Tokugawa dynasty. He was the eldest son of Tokugawa Hidetada with Oeyo, and the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Lady Kasuga was his wet nurse, who acted as his political adviser and was at the ...
. By this time, Edo had a population of 150,000. The existing ''Honmaru'', ''Ninomaru'', and ''Sannomaru'' areas were extended with the addition of the ''Nishinomaru'', ''Nishinomaru-shita'', ''Fukiage'', and ''Kitanomaru'' areas. The perimeter measured 16 km. The ''shÅgun'' required the ''
daimyÅ were powerful Japanese magnates, feudal lords who, from the 10th century to the early Meiji era, Meiji period in the middle 19th century, ruled most of Japan from their vast hereditary land holdings. They were subordinate to the shogun and no ...
''s to supply building materials or finances, a method shogunate used to keep the powers of the ''daimyÅ''s in check. Large granite stones were moved from afar, the size and number of the stones depended on the wealth of the ''daimyÅ''s. The wealthier ones had to contribute more. Those who did not supply stones were required to contribute labor for such tasks as digging the large moats and flattening hills. The earth that was taken from the moats was used as landfill for sea-reclamation or to level the ground. Thus the construction of Edo Castle laid the foundation for parts of the city where merchants were able to settle. At least 10,000 men were involved in the first phase of the construction and more than 300,000 in the middle phase. When construction ended, the castle had 38 gates. The ramparts were almost high and the outer walls were high. Moats forming roughly concentric circles were dug for further protection. Some moats reached as far as
Ichigaya is an area in the eastern portion of Shinjuku, Tokyo, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan. Places in Ichigaya *Hosei University Ichigaya Campus *Chuo University Graduate School *Ministry of Defense (Japan), Ministry of Defense headquarters: Formerly Headqua ...
and Yotsuya, and parts of the ramparts survive to this day. This area is bordered by either the sea or the Kanda River, allowing ships access. Various fires over the centuries damaged or destroyed parts of the castle, Edo and the majority of its buildings being made of timber. On April 21, 1701, in the Great Pine Corridor ('' Matsu no ÅŒrÅka'') of Edo Castle, Asano Takumi-no-kami drew his short sword and attempted to kill Kira KÅzuke-no-suke for insulting him. This triggered the events involving the forty-seven ''rÅnin''. After the capitulation of the shogunate in 1867, the inhabitants and ''shÅgun'' had to vacate the premises. The castle compound was renamed in October, 1868, and then renamed in 1869. In the year Meiji 2 (1868), on the 23rd day of the 10th month of the
Japanese calendar Japanese calendar types have included a range of official and unofficial systems. At present, Japan uses the Gregorian calendar together with year designations stating the Japanese era name, year of the reign of the current Emperor. The written f ...
the emperor moved to Tokyo and Edo castle became an imperial palace. A fire consumed the old Edo Castle on the night of May 5, 1873. The area around the old keep, which burned in the 1657 Meireki fire, became the site of the new Imperial , built in 1888. Some Tokugawa-period buildings which were still standing were destroyed to make space for new structures for the imperial government. The imperial palace building itself, however, was constructed in ''Nishinomaru'' Ward, not in the same location as the ''shÅgun''s palace in ''Honmaru'' Ward. The site suffered substantial damage during World War II and in the destruction of Tokyo in 1945. Today the site is part of the
Tokyo Imperial Palace is the main residence of the Emperor of Japan. It is a large park-like area located in the Chiyoda, Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda district of the Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda ward of Tokyo and contains several buildings including the where the Emperor h ...
. The government declared the area an historic site and has undertaken steps to restore and preserve the remaining structures of Edo Castle.


Appearance of Edo Castle

The plan of Edo Castle was not only large but elaborate. The grounds were divided into various wards, or citadels. The ''Honmaru'' was in the center, with the ''Ninomaru'' (second compound), ''Sannomaru'' (third compound) extending to the east; the ''Nishinomaru'' (west compound) flanked by ''Nishinomaru-shita'' (outer section) and ''Fukiage'' (firebreak compound); and the ''Kitanomaru'' (north compound). The different wards were divided by moats and large stone walls, on which various keeps, defense houses and towers were built. To the east, beyond the ''Sannomaru'' was an outer moat, enclosing the ''Otomachi'' and ''DaimyÅ-KÅji'' districts. ''Ishigaki'' stone walls were constructed around the ''Honmaru'' and the eastern side of the ''Nishinomaru''. Each ward could be reached via wooden bridges, which were buffered by gates on either side. The circumference is subject to debate, with estimates ranging from 6 to 10 miles.Schmorleitz, pg. 105 With the enforcement of the '' sankin-kÅtai'' system in the 17th century, it became expedient for the ''daimyÅs'' to set up residence in Edo close to the ''shÅgun''. Surrounding the inner compounds of the castle were the residences of ''daimyÅs'', most of which were concentrated at the Outer Sakurada Gate to the south-east and in the ''ÅŒtemachi'' and ''DaimyÅ-KÅji'' districts east of the castle inside the outer moat. Some residences were also within the inner moats in the outer ''Nishinomaru''. The mansions were large and elaborate, with no expenses spared to construct palaces with Japanese gardens and multiple gates. Each block had four to six of the mansions, which were surrounded by ditches for drainage. ''DaimyÅs'' with lesser wealth were allowed to set up their houses, called ''banchÅ'', to the north and west of the castle. To the east and south of the castle were sections that were set aside for merchants, since this area was considered unsuitable for residences. The entertainment district
Yoshiwara was a famous ( red-light district) in Edo, present-day Tokyo, Japan. Established in 1617, Yoshiwara was one of three licensed and well-known red-light districts created during the early 17th century by the Tokugawa shogunate, alongside Shim ...
was also there.


Gates

Edo Castle was protected by multiple large and small wooden gates ( ''mon''), constructed in-between the gaps of the stone wall. There were 36 major gates. Not many are left on the outer moats, because they were a traffic hazard. Since the central quarter is now
Tokyo Imperial Palace is the main residence of the Emperor of Japan. It is a large park-like area located in the Chiyoda, Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda district of the Chiyoda, Tokyo, Chiyoda ward of Tokyo and contains several buildings including the where the Emperor h ...
, some gates on the inner moats are well maintained and used as security check points. In old days, "Ote-mon" was the main gate and the most heavily armed. There were 3 more gates you would go through after "Ote-mon" to reach the
Shogun , officially , was the title of the military aristocracy, rulers of Japan during most of the period spanning from 1185 to 1868. Nominally appointed by the Emperor of Japan, Emperor, shoguns were usually the de facto rulers of the country, exc ...
's residence. Today, "Nishinomaru-mon" is the main entrance to the Palace. However, the twin bridge "Nijubashi" in front of it is more famous than the gate itself, thus the Palace Entrance is often publicly referred to as "Nijubashi". An eye-witness account is given by the French director François Caron from the Dutch colony at Dejima. He described the gates and courts being laid out in such a manner as to confuse an outsider. Caron noted the gates were not placed in a straight line, but were staggered, forcing a person to make a 90 degree turn to pass on to the next gate. This style of construction for the main gates is called ''masugata'' (meaning "square"). As noted by Caron, the gate consisted of a square-shaped courtyard or enclosure and a two-story gatehouse which is entered via three roofed ''kÅrai-mon''. The ''watari-yagura-mon'' was constructed at adjacent angles to each side within the gate.Hinago, pg. 138 All major gates had large timbers that framed the main entry point and were constructed to impress and proclaim the might of the shogunate.


Garrison

Accounts of how many armed men served at Edo Castle vary. The Spanish Governor-General of the Philippines Rodrigo de Vivero y Velasco gave an eye-witness account in 1608–1609, describing the huge stones that made up the walls and a large number of people at the castle. He claimed to have seen 20,000 servants between the first gate and the ''shÅgun''s palace. He passed through two ranks of 1,000 soldiers armed with
musket A musket is a muzzle-loaded long gun that appeared as a smoothbore weapon in the early 16th century, at first as a heavier variant of the arquebus, capable of penetrating plate armour. By the mid-16th century, this type of musket gradually dis ...
s, and by the second gate he was escorted by 400 armed men. He passed stables that apparently had room for 200 horses and an armory that stored enough weapons for 100,000 men.


''Honmaru''

was the central, innermost part of the castle containing the
keep A keep is a type of fortified tower built within castles during the Middle Ages by European nobility. Scholars have debated the scope of the word ''keep'', but usually consider it to refer to large towers in castles that were fortified residen ...
and residence of the ''shÅgun''. The stately and luxurious main buildings of the ''Honmaru'', consisting of the outer, central, and inner halls, were said to have covered an area of during the Kan-ei era (1624–1644). Surrounding the ''Honmaru'' were curtain walls, with 11 keeps, 15 defense houses and more than 20 gates. ''Honmaru'' was destroyed several times by fire and reconstructed after each fire. The keep and main palace were destroyed in 1657 and 1863, respectively, and not reconstructed. Some remains, such as the ''Fujimi-yagura'' keep and ''Fujimi-tamon'' defense house, still exist. The ''Honmaru'' was surrounded by moats on all sides. To the north separating ''Honmaru'' from the ''Kitanomaru'' were the ''Inui-bori'' and ''Hirakawa-bori'', to the east separating the ''Ninomaru'' was the ''HakuchÅ-bori'', and to the west and south separating the ''Nishinomaru'' were the ''Hasuike-bori'' and ''Hamaguri-bori''. Most of these still exist, although the ''HakuchÅ-bori'' has partly been filled in since the Meiji era.


''Kitahanebashi-mon''

is the northern gate to the ''Honmaru'' ward, facing ''Kitanomaru'' ward across Daikan-cho street. It is also constructed as a ''masu''-gate just like ''ÅŒte-mon'' and ''Hirakawa-mon'', and has a ''watari-yagura-mon'' in a left angle. The bridge in front of the gate, which was once a drawbridge during the Edo period, is now fixed to the ground. The metal clasps used to draw the bridge are still attached to the roof of the gate.


Keep

The main
keep A keep is a type of fortified tower built within castles during the Middle Ages by European nobility. Scholars have debated the scope of the word ''keep'', but usually consider it to refer to large towers in castles that were fortified residen ...
or tower (known as the ) was in the northern corner of the ''Honmaru'' ward. ''Kitahanebashi-mon'' is right next to it and was one of the main gateways to this innermost part. The measurements are in width from east to west, in length from north to south, and in height. The castle once had a five-storey keep which was in height and was thus the highest castle tower in the whole of Japan, symbolizing the power of the ''shÅgun''. The first iteration of the keep and its multiple roofs were constructed in 1607 and ornamented with gold. It was rebuilt in 1623 and again in 1638. The third version of the keep was destroyed in the 1657 Fire of Meireki and not reconstructed. The foundations of the keep that survive today were built in preparation for reconstructing the keep, but were never used. Despite this, ''
jidaigeki is a genre of film, television, and theatre in Japan. Literally meaning "historical drama, period dramas", it refers to stories that take place before the Meiji Restoration of 1868. ''Jidaigeki'' show the lives of the samurai, farmers, crafts ...
'' movies (such as '' AbarenbÅ ShÅgun'') set in Edo usually depict Edo Castle as having a keep, and substitute Himeji Castle for that purpose. A non-profit "Rebuilding Edo-jo Association" (NPO江戸城å†å»º) was founded in 2004 with the aim of a historically correct reconstruction of at least the main keep. In March 2013 Naotaka Kotake, head of the group, said that "The capital city needs a symbolic building", and that the group planned to collect donations and signatures on a petition in the hope of having the tower rebuilt. A reconstruction blueprint had been made based on old documents. The
Imperial Household Agency The (IHA) is an agency of the government of Japan in charge of state matters concerning the Imperial House of Japan, Imperial Family, and the keeping of the Privy Seal of Japan, Privy Seal and State Seal of Japan. From around the 8th century ...
had not indicated whether it would support the project.


''Honmaru'' Palace

The residential and the gardens of the ''shÅgun'' and his court were constructed around the castle keep in the ''Honmaru'' area. It consisted of a series of low-level buildings, connected by corridors and congregating around various gardens, courtyards or lying detached, similar to the structures that can be seen in NijÅ Castle in Kyoto today. These structures were used for either residential or governmental purposes such as audiences. The ''Honmaru'' Palace was one story high, and consisted of three sections: # The ''ÅŒ-omote'' (Great Outer Palace) contained reception rooms for public audience and apartments for guards and officials; # The ''Naka-oku'' (middle interior) was where the ''shÅgun'' received his relatives, higher lords and met his counselors for the affairs of state; and # ''
ÅŒoku The was historically the harem, women's quarters of Edo Castle, the section where the women connected to the reigning resided. Similar areas in the castles of powerful , such as the Satsuma Domain, were also referred to by this term. During ...
'' (great interior) contained the private apartments of the ''shÅgun'' and his ladies-in-waiting. The great interior was strictly off-limits and communication went through young messenger boys. The great interior was apparently 1,000 tatami mats in size and could be divided into sections by the use of sliding ''shÅji'' doors, which were painted in elegant schemes. Various fires destroyed the ''Honmaru'' Palace over time and was rebuilt after each fire. In the span from 1844 to 1863, ''Honmaru'' experienced three fires. After each fire, the ''shÅgun'' moved to the ''Nishinomaru'' residences for the time being until reconstruction was complete. However, in 1853 both the ''Honmaru'' and ''Nishinomaru'' burned down, forcing the ''shÅgun'' to move into a ''daimyÅ'' residence. The last fire occurred in 1873, after which the palace was not rebuilt by the new imperial government. Behind the ''Honmaru'' Palace was the main keep. Besides being the location of the keep and palace, the ''Honmaru'' was also the site of the treasury. Three storehouses that bordered on a rampart adjoined the palace on the other side. The entrance was small, made with thick lumber and heavily guarded. Behind the wall was a deep drop to the moat below, making the area secure.


''Fujimi-yagura''

The stands in the south-eastern corner of the ''Honmaru'' enceinte and is three storeys high. ''Fujimi-yagura'' is one of only three remaining keeps of the inner citadel of Edo Castle, from a total number of originally eleven. The other remaining keeps are ''Fushimi-yagura'' (next to the upper steel bridge of ''NijÅ«bashi'') and ''Tatsumi-nijyu-yagura'' (at the corner of ''KikyÅ-bori'' moat next to ''KikyÅ-mon'' gate). It is also called the "all-front-sided" keep because all sides look the same from all directions. It is believed that once
Mount Fuji is an active stratovolcano located on the Japanese island of Honshu, with a summit elevation of . It is the highest mountain in Japan, the second-highest volcano on any Asian island (after Mount Kerinci on the Indonesian island of Sumatra), a ...
could be seen from this keep, hence the name. Since the main keep of Edo Castle was destroyed in 1657 and not reconstructed, the ''Fujimi-yagura'' took on its role and was an important building after being constructed in 1659 during the Edo period. About north of the ''Fujimi-yagura'' is the former site of the '' Matsu no ÅŒrÅka'' corridor, scene of dramatic events in 1701 that led to the forty-seven ''rÅnin'' incident.


''Fujimi-tamon''

The defense house is about north from the ''Matsu no ÅŒrÅka''. This defense house sits on top of the large stone walls overlooking to the ''Hasuike-bori'' (Lotus-growing moat). Weapons and tools were stored here. During the Edo period, double and triple keeps (''yagura'') were constructed at strategic points on top of the stone wall surrounding the ''Honmaru''. In between each keep, a defense house (called ''tamon'') was erected for defensive purposes. There were once 15 of these houses in the ''Honmaru'', of which only the ''Fujimi-tamon'' still exists.


''Ishimuro''

North of the ''Fujimi-tamon'' is the , on a slope. It is about . Its precise purpose is unknown, but since it is close to the former inner palace storage area, it is believed to have been used for storage of supplies and documents for the shogunate.


''Shiomi-zaka''

is a slope running alongside today's Imperial Music Department building towards ''Ninomaru'' enceinte. In old times apparently the sea could be seen from here, therefore its name.


''Ninomaru''

At the foot of the ''Shiomi-zaka'' on the eastern side of the ''Honmaru'' lies the of Edo Castle. A palace for the heirs of the Tokugawa ''shÅguns'' was constructed in 1639 in the west area (Western Perimeter) and in 1630 it is reported that a garden designed by Kobori EnshÅ«, who was the founder of Japanese landscaping, was to its south-east. Several fires destroyed whatever stood here and it was not reconstructed. Aside from the ''Honmaru'' palace, the ''Ninomaru'' was surrounded by 7 keeps, 8 defense houses, approximately 10 gates and other guardhouses. The ''Tenjin-bori'' separates a part of the ''Ninomaru'' to the ''Sannomaru''. Several renovations were carried out over the years until the Meiji era. A completely new garden has been laid out since then around the old pond left from the Edo period. Only the ''Hyakunin-bansho'' and ''DÅshin-bansho'' are still standing.


''DÅshin-bansho''

The is a guardhouse. A big guardhouse was within the ''ÅŒte-mon'' where today's security is. The passageway proceeding west from the guardhouse becomes narrower within the stone walls on both sides. The ''dÅshin-bansho'' is on the right side past this passageway. This is where the samurai guardsmen were posted to watch over the castle grounds.


''Hyakunin-bansho''

There is a big stone wall in front of the ''DÅshin-bansho'', which is the foundation of the ''ÅŒte-sanno-mon watari-yagura'' keep. The long building to the left on the southern side of this foundation is the . The ''Hyakunin-bansho'' is so called because it housed a hundred guardsmen closely associated with the Tokugawa clan.


''Ō-bansho''

The large stone wall in front of the ''Hyakunin-bansho'' is all that is left of the ''Naka-no-mon watari-yagura'' (Inner Gate Keep). This building to the inner-right side of the gate is the . As the ''Honmaru'' enceinte was said to begin right behind the ''Naka-no-mon'' gate, the ''Ō-bansho'' probably played a key role in the security of Edo Castle.


''Suwa-no-Chaya''

The is a teahouse that was once in the ''Fukiage'' garden during the Edo period. After various relocations in the Meiji era, today it is in the modern ''Ninomaru'' Garden.


''Sannomaru''

The is the easternmost enceinte next to the ''Ninomaru'', separated by the ''Tenjin-bori''. ÅŒte-bori is to the north, running then south is ''KikyÅ-bori''.


''Bairin-zaka''

A steep slope, , runs from eastern ''Honmaru'' toward ''Hirakawa-mon'' in front of the today's Archives and Mausolea Department building. It is said that ÅŒta DÅkan planted several hundred plum trees in 1478 in dedication to Sugawara no Michizane. DÅkan is said to have built the Sanno-GongendÅ here, where two shrines were when the Tokugawa clan occupied the site. With the erection of the ''Honmaru'' of Edo Castle, the shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane was moved to Kojimachi Hirakawa-chÅ and later became known as Hirakawa Shrine. Sanno Shrine was first moved to ''Momijiyama'' of Edo Castle and became its tutelary shrine but was moved again. Today it is known as Hie Shrine.


''Hirakawa-mon''

is said to have been the main gate to the ''Sannomaru'' of Edo Castle. It is also said to have been the side gate for maidservants and therefore called the ''Otsubone-mon''. The shape of this gate is in the ''masugata'', similar to the ''ÅŒte-mon''. However a ''watari-yagura-mon'' is built to an adjacent left angle within the ''kÅrai-mon'', of which it has two. The other ''kÅrai-mon'' is to the west of the ''watari-yagura-mon'' which was used as the "gates of the unclean" for the deceased and criminals from within the castle. Outside this gate is a wooden bridge with railings crowned with ''giboshi''-ornamental tops.


''ÅŒte-mon''

was the main gate of the castle. During the reign of the second Tokugawa ''shÅgun'' Hidetada, the castle underwent repairs in the 1620s and the gate is said to have taken its present form at this time, with the help of Date Masamune, lord of Sendai Castle, and Soma Toshitane, lord of Nakamura Castle. A fire in Edo destroyed the ''ÅŒte-mon'' in January 1657, but was reconstructed in November 1658. It was severely damaged twice, in 1703 and 1855, by strong earthquakes, and reconstructed to stand until the Meiji era. Several repairs were conducted after the Meiji era, but the damage caused by the September
1923 Great KantÅ earthquake The 1923 Great KantÅ earthquake (, or ) was a major earthquake that struck the KantÅ Plain on the main Japanese island of Honshu at 11:58:32 JST (02:58:32 UTC) on Saturday, 1 September 1923. It had an approximate magnitude of 8.0 on the mom ...
lead to the dismantling of the ''watari-yagura'' (渡り櫓) and rebuilding of the stone walls on each side of the gate in 1925. The ''watari-yagura'' was burnt down completely during
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
on April 30, 1945. Restoration took place from October 1965 through March 1967, to repair the ''kÅrai''-mon and its walls, and the ''ÅŒte-mon'' was reconstructed.


''Tatsumi-yagura''

The , also known as , is a two-story high keep at the easternmost corner of the ''Sannomaru'' and the only keep still remaining in it.


''KikyÅ-mon''

One of the few gates left of the ''Ninomaru'' is the , which is also known as the Inner ''Sakurada-mon'', as opposed to the (Outer) ''Sakurada-mon'' in the south. The architecture of the tower is a gate and in the ''kÅrai'' style.


''Nishinomaru''

The was the location of the palaces and residences of the retired ''shÅgun'' and the heir-apparent for a while. The outer part of the ''Nishinomaru'' to the east (today's Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace) was the site of various residences of ''daimyÅs''. The ''Nishinomaru'' is bordered by moats to the west such as the ''DÅkan-bori'', ''Sakurada-bori'' and Gaisen-bori to the south, ''KikyÅ-bori'' and ''Hamaguri-bori'' to the north. After each fire in the ''Honmaru'', the ''shÅgun'' normally moved into the ''Nishinomaru'', although it was also destroyed by fire in 1853. On May 5, 1873, the ''Nishinomaru'' residence burned down. On its site, the imperial palace was built in the Meiji era.


''Sakurada-mon''

Protecting the ''Nishinomaru'' from the south is the large Outer . This gate is not to be confused with the Inner ''Sakurada-mon'', also known as ''Kikyo-mon'' between ''Nishinomaru'' and ''Sannomaru''.


''Seimon Ishibashi'' and ''Seimon Tetsubashi''

Two bridges led over the moats. The bridges that were once wooden and arched, were replaced with modern stone and iron cast structures in the Meiji era. The bridges were once buffered by gates on both ends, of which only the ''Nishinomaru''-mon has survived, which is the main gate to today's Imperial Palace. The bridge in the foreground used to be called , while the one in the back was called . After their replacement in the Meiji era, the bridge is now called ) and , respectively. The iron bridge is also known as , because the original wooden bridge was built on top of an auxiliary bridge due to the deepness of the moat. The stone bridge is also called because of its shape. However, both bridges are often mistakenly collectively called Nijūbashi. Today both bridges are closed to the public except on January 2 and the Emperor's Birthday. File:Nijuubashi2.jpg, Seimon Tetsubashi (Nijūbashi) File:Seimon Ishibashi.JPG, Seimon Ishibashi (Meganebashi)


''Fushimi-yagura''

is a two-storey keep that still exists at the western corner leading towards the inner ''Nishinomaru'', flanked by two galleries (''tamon'') on each side. It is the only keep that is left in the ''Nishinomaru''. It comes originally from Fushimi Castle in Kyoto.


''Sakashita-mon''

originally faced the north, but was changed to face the east in the Meiji era. This tower gate overlooks ''Hamaguri-bori''. The assassination of AndÅ Nobumasa, a member of the ''shÅgun''s Council of Elders, occurred outside this gate.


''Momijiyama''

is an area in northern ''Nishinomaru''. The area had shrines dedicated to former ''shÅguns'' in which ceremonies were conducted in memory of them and were held regularly. Tokugawa Ieyasu built a library in 1602 within the Fujimi bower of the castle with a number of books he obtained from an old library in Kanazawa. In July 1693, a new library was constructed at ''Momijiyama'' (''Momijiyama Bunko''). The so-called "Momijiyama Bunkobon" are the books from that library, which are preserved in the National Archives of Japan today. This group consists chiefly of books published during the
Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Fiv ...
, Korean books that were formerly in the possession of the Kanazawa Bunko library, books presented by the Hayashi family as gifts, and fair copies of books compiled by the Tokugawa government.Tokugawa Memorial Foundation
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''Fukiage''

The is the western area that was made into a firebreak after the great Meireki fire of 1657. The ''Fukiage'' is encircled by the ''DÅkan-bori'' to the ''Nishinomaru'' to the east, the ''Sakurada-bori'' to the south, the ''HanzÅ-bori'' to the west, the ''Chidorigafuchi'' to the northwest and the ''Inui-bori'' to the north.


''Inui-mon''

The was in the ''Nishinomaru'' area next to today's headquarters of the Imperial Household Agency and called ''Nishinomaru Ura-mon''. It was moved to its present location between the ''Kitanomaru'' and ''Fukiage'' garden in the Meiji era. It has its name because it was in the northwestern part of the Imperial Palace grounds.


''HanzÅmon''

The is a gate in the ''kÅrai'' style. The old gate was destroyed by fire during World War II. The Wadakura Gate was moved here in its stead. The ''HanzÅ-mon'' is the only gate to the ''Fukiage'' area from outside today. File:Imperial Palace Tokyo inuimon gate.jpg, ''Inui-mon'', former ''Nishinomaru Ura-mon'' File:Imperial Palace Tokyo Hanzomon Gate.jpg, ''HanzÅ-mon'', former Wadakura Gate


''Kitanomaru''

The is the northern enceinte next to the ''Honmaru''. It was used as a medicinal garden (''Ohanabatake'') during the ''shÅgun''s rule. During the 17th century, the Suruga Dainagon residence was there as well, which was used by collateral branches of the Tokugawa clan. Today this site is the location of the public Kitanomaru Park. Not much is left from the times of the Edo Castle except for two gates, ''Shimizu-mon'' and further north ''Tayasu-mon''. ''Kitanomaru'' is surrounded by moats. The ''Inui-bori'' and ''Hirakawa-bori'' to the south separate it from the ''Honmaru'' and ''Chidorigafuchi'' to the west.


Derived place names in Tokyo

Many place names in Tokyo derive from Edo Castle. , , , , , and are examples.


See also

* Edo Castle Gates * Kamiyashiki of Matsudaira Tadamasa *
List of Special Places of Scenic Beauty, Special Historic Sites and Special Natural Monuments To protect Japan's cultural heritage, the country's government selects through the Agency for Cultural Affairs important items and designates them as Cultural Properties of Japan, Cultural Properties under the Law for the Protection of Cultural Pro ...


Notes


References


Benesch, Oleg. "Castles and the Militarisation of Urban Society in Imperial Japan", ''Transactions of the Royal Historical Society'', Vol. 28 (Dec. 2018), pp. 107–134.


Further reading

* * * Ponsonby-Fane, Richard A. B. (1956). ''Kyoto: The Old Capital of Japan, 794–1869.'' Kyoto: The Ponsonby Memorial Society. * *


External links


Rebuilding "Edo-jo" Association
* National Museum of Japanese History

* National Archives of Japan
''Ryukyu Chuzano ryoshisha tojogyoretsu,'' scroll illustrating procession of Ryukyu emissary to Edo, 1710 (''HÅei'' 7).
* National Archives of Japan

* ttp://sitereports.nabunken.go.jp/en Comprehensive Database of Archaeological Site Reports in Japan Nara National Research Institute for Cultural Properties {{Authority control Special Historic Sites Go-HÅjÅ clan