
Tightlacing (also called corset training) is the practice of wearing a tightly-laced
corset
A corset is a support garment commonly worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or larger bottom, for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or with a more lasting effe ...
. It is done to achieve cosmetic modifications to the figure and posture or to experience the sensation of bodily restriction.
History
Corset
A corset is a support garment commonly worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape, traditionally a smaller waist or larger bottom, for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or with a more lasting effe ...
s were first worn by members of both sexes of
Minoans of
Crete, but did not become popular again until the sixteenth century. They remained a feature of fashionable dress until the
French Revolution,
when corsets for women were designed mainly to turn the torso into a fashionable cylindrical shape, although they narrowed the waist as well. They had shoulder straps, ended at the waist, flattened the bust, and, in so doing, pushed the breasts up. The emphasis of the corset became less on the smallness of the waist than on the contrast between the rigid flatness of the bodice front and the curving tops of the breasts peeking over the top of the corset.

At the end of the eighteenth century, the corset fell into decline. Fashion for women embraced the
Empire silhouette: a
Graeco-Roman style, with the high-waisted dress that was unique to this style gathered under the breasts. The waist was no longer emphasised, and dresses were sewn from thin
muslins rather than the heavy brocades and
satins of the aristocratic high fashion style preceding it.

The
reign of the Empire waist was short. In the 1830s, shoulders widened (with puffy gigot sleeves or flounces), skirts widened (layers of stiffened petticoats), and the waistline narrowed and migrated toward a natural position. By the
1850s
The 1850s (pronounced "eighteen-fifties") was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on January 1, 1850, and ended on December 31, 1859.
It was a very turbulent decade, as wars such as the Crimean War, shifted and shook European politic ...
, exaggerated shoulders were out of fashion and waistlines were cinched at the natural waist above a wide skirt. Fashion had achieved what is now known as the
Victorian
Victorian or Victorians may refer to:
19th century
* Victorian era, British history during Queen Victoria's 19th-century reign
** Victorian architecture
** Victorian house
** Victorian decorative arts
** Victorian fashion
** Victorian literature ...
silhouette.
In the 1830s, the
artificially inflated shoulders and skirts made the intervening waist look narrow, even with the corset laced only moderately. When the exaggerated shoulders disappeared, the style dictated that the waist had to be cinched tightly in order to achieve the same effect. During the 1840s and 1850s, "tightlacing" was ordinary fashion taken to an extreme.
Young and fashionable women were most likely to tightlace, especially for balls, fashionable gatherings, and other occasions for display. Older, poorer, and primmer women would have laced moderately – just enough "to be decent".
The
Victorian
Victorian or Victorians may refer to:
19th century
* Victorian era, British history during Queen Victoria's 19th-century reign
** Victorian architecture
** Victorian house
** Victorian decorative arts
** Victorian fashion
** Victorian literature ...
and
Edwardian corset differed from earlier corsets in numerous ways. The corset no longer ended at the waist, but flared out and ended several inches below the waist. The corset was exaggeratedly curvaceous rather than cylindrical. It became much sturdier in construction, thanks to improvements in technology. Spiral steel stays curved with the figure rather than dictating a cylindrical silhouette. While many corsets were still sewn by hand to the wearer's measurements, there was also a thriving market in cheaper mass-produced corsets.
In the late years of the
Victorian era, medical reports and rumors claimed that tightlacing was fatally detrimental to health (see
Victorian dress reform). Women who suffered to achieve small waists were also condemned for their vanity and excoriated from the pulpit as slaves to fashion. It was frequently claimed that too small a waist was ugly rather than beautiful. Dress reformers exhorted women to abandon the tyranny of stays and free their waists for work and healthy exercise.
Despite the efforts of dress reformers to eliminate the corset, and despite medical and clerical warnings, women persisted in tightlacing. In the early 1900s, the small corseted waist began to fall out of fashion. The feminist and dress reform movements had made practical clothing acceptable for work or exercise. The rise of the
Artistic Dress movement made loose clothing and the natural waist fashionable even for evening wear. Couturiers such as
Fortuny and
Poiret designed exotic, alluring costumes in pleated or draped silks, calculated to reveal slim, youthful bodies. If one didn't have such a body, new undergarments, the
brassiere and the
girdle, promised to give the illusion of one.
Corsets were no longer fashionable, but they entered the underworld of the
fetish, along with items such as
bondage
Bondage may refer to:
Restraints
*Physical restraints
**Bondage (BDSM), use of restraint for erotic stimulation
***Self-bondage, use of restraints on oneself for erotic pleasure
Social and economic practices
*Serfdom, feudal enslavement of peasan ...
gear and vinyl
catsuit
A catsuit is a one-piece form-fitting garment that covers the torso and the legs, and frequently the arms. They are usually made from stretchable material, such as lycra, chiffon, spandex (after 1959), latex, or velour, but may use less elasti ...
s. From the 1960s to the 1990s,
fetish wear became a fashion trend and corsets made something of a resurgence. They are often worn as top garments rather than underwear. Most corset wearers own a few
bustiers or fashionable authentic corsets for evening wear, but they do not tightlace.
Historical reenactors often wear corsets, but few tightlace.
Notable adherents
*
Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi); 19.5 inches (49-50 cm)
*
Polaire
Émilie Marie Bouchaud (14 May 1874 – 14 October 1939), better known by her stage name Polaire, was a French singer and actress. She was known for her wasp waist which, achieved through corsetry, reportedly measured less than 16 inches (41&nb ...
; about 1914; 13–14 inches (33–36 cm)
*
Cathie Jung; 2006; 15 inches (38 cm)
*
Dita Von Teese; 16.5 inches (42 cm)
*
Maud of Wales; queen of Norway ; 18 inches (45 cm)
*
Ethel Granger
Ethel Granger (born 12 April 1905 in Cambridgeshire as Ethel Mary Wilson; died January–March 1982 in Peterborough) was one of the most famous main figures in the development of contemporary piercing and body modification in Europe. As world recor ...
; 13 inches (33 cm)
See also
*
Body modification
*
Corset controversy
*
Hourglass corset
''Tightlacing-related''
*
Skin-tight garment
*
Zentai
References
Further reading
*
Le corset; étude physiologique et pratique
* Tight Lacing, Peter Farrer.
* The Corset and the Crinoline. A Book of Modes and Costumes from remote periods to the present time. Lord William Barry. (1869)
* Valerie Steele, ''The Corset: A Cultural History''. Yale University Press, 2001, .
* David Kunzle, "Fashion and fetishism: a social history of the corset, tight-lacing, and other forms of body-sculpture in the West", Rowman and Littlefield, 1982,
* ''Bound To Please: A History of the Victorian Corset'', Leigh Summers, Berg Publishers, 2001.
{{Sex fetish
1840s fashion
19th-century fashion
20th-century fashion
Corsetry
History of clothing (Western fashion)
Body modification
Fetish clothing
Fashion-related fetishism