Chiesa Matrice, Erice

Chiesa Matrice, formally titled the ''Chiesa Madre di Erice'' (Mother Church of Erice), is the principal Roman Catholic church in Erice, Sicily. Commonly referred to as the ''Duomo di Erice'' or ''Real Duomo'' (Royal Cathedral), it was built in the early 14th century during the reign of King Frederick III of Aragon and is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The church stands as a prominent example of Sicilian Gothic architecture, with later additions and restorations reflecting changing liturgical and artistic styles.

Its full historical name, ''Real Chiesa Madrice Insigne Collegiata'' (Royal Distinguished Mother and Collegiate Church), reflects its collegiate status—served by a chapter of canons but not a bishop. The term ''matrice'', from Latin ''matrix'' ("origin" or "source"), is traditionally used in Italian ecclesiastical language for a town’s main church. The Sicilian dialect form ''madrice'' is also common and appears in local signage and usage.

Situated at the entrance to the historic centre in Piazza Matrice (named after the church itself), it remains one of Erice’s most recognisable and architecturally significant landmarks.

History

Early Christian Tradition

According to oral tradition, the origins of Christian worship in Erice date back to the 4th century AD, during the reign of Emperor Constantine, when the population began to embrace Christianity. This coincided with the closure—if not destruction—of the ancient Temple of Venus Erycina, a major pagan sanctuary that had long stood at the summit of Mount Erice. Dedicated to Venus Erycina, the Roman adaptation of the Greek goddess Aphrodite, the temple was one of the most important centres of worship in the ancient Mediterranean world, attracting pilgrims from across the region.

Following its closure, local tradition holds that the people of Erice built a small Christian church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which would eventually develop into the present-day Chiesa Matrice. Some sources suggest that two early churches were established: one, Our Lady of the Snow (''Nostra Signora della Neve''), constructed within the former temple complex itself; the other, also dedicated to Mary, built further to the west to provide spiritual distance for those in the community who had not yet abandoned the rites of Venus. The ruins of Our Lady of the Snow are still visible today in the courtyard of the Castle of Venus.

Gothic Foundation and Aragonese Patronage (14th century)

A long-standing political conflict in the Kingdom of Sicily—between the so-called "Latin" and "Catalan" factions, and intensified by Angevin claims to the island—led King Frederick III to temporarily leave Palermo and take refuge in Erice during a campaign by Robert of Anjou and the siege of Trapani. According to tradition, when political circumstances later allowed him to return to the capital, the king wished to leave a tangible sign of gratitude to the town for its hospitality. This sentiment reportedly contributed to his decision to commission the expansion of the church.

Work on the current church started in 1314, using building materials taken from the ruins of the Temple of Venus. Nine Greek crosses believed to come from the pagan temple are embedded in the right outer wall of the current church. Construction continued slowly. Works were still ongoing in 1329, when Pope John XXII issued a formal decree granting indulgences (reductions in the spiritual penalties for sins that had already been forgiven) to those who contributed to the church’s completion. The church was finished around 1372, featuring a basilical plan with three naves, mosaic‑decorated vaulting, and richly arranged chapels.

Renaissance and Baroque Expansions (15th–18th centuries)

With the rise of the Renaissance and its new aesthetic ideals — along with numerous acts of patronage — additional chapels, structures, and exterior elements were added to the church.

The church originally had no side chapels. In 1512, a large late-Gothic chapel was added halfway down the left nave, originally dedicated to All Saints. Its star-patterned ribbed vault is particularly notable and atmospheric. Also along the left nave, three smaller chapels were added between the early and late 16th century, forming a single continuous space.
* The first chapel, called De Scrineis, built by an archpriest of that name in the mid-16th century, has a mammiform dome with a hanging boss depicting Christ Pantocrator.
* The second chapel has a barrel vault supported by a cornice with repeating arches.
* The third chapel is topped by a polylobed dome.

Collapse and Neo-Gothic Reconstruction (19th century)

The interior collapsed in 1853. It was rebuilt in the spectacular Neo-Gothic style admired today and was reopened in 1865. The renovation was directed by Friar Francesco La Rocca, who implemented a double-transept floor plan, creating a highly monumental spatial effect. This means that, in addition to the main transept before the presbytery, the church has a second transept near the entrance — an architectural feature inspired by San Domenico Maggiore in Naples.

The Neo-Gothic vaulting incorporates Moorish-style motifs, consistent with the Sicilian tradition of richly adorning churches with lace, fabrics, and stucco — a practice for which Erice was especially renowned.

Architecture

The church has a three-aisled basilical plan, with double transepts—a rare feature that creates a striking visual rhythm. The architectural concept is credited to Francesco La Rocca, and stylistically associated with Federico Travaglini.

Façade

The church, built in the Chiaramontan Gothic style, features a gabled façade with Ghibelline battlements. The elegant main portal, dating to the 14th century, is decorated with a double sawtooth arch. Above it is a rose window, Gothic in style but installed in the 1950s, flanked by two rounded oculi.

To the north, the façade resembles a civil building integrated into the church’s structure. A Catalan-style portal with diamond-point rustication is topped by a refined window and flag holders. To the south, along Via Chiaramonte, an older ogival portal is found. During the tenure of Archpriest Carvini (late 17th century), nine stone crosses—believed to originate from the Temple of Venus Erycina—were embedded into this southern wall.

Two prominent features give the church its monumental character: the bell tower and the portico.

Bell Tower

The bell tower, which now stands 28 metres tall, was originally a Punic-era watchtower. It was incorporated into the church complex and rebuilt in the late 13th century under King Frederick III, who spent time in Erice during the conflict between the Spanish and French for control of Sicily. The tower is built on a raised platform and is divided into three levels: the ground floor features ''monofore'' (single-light) windows, while the upper levels display decorated ''bifore'' (double-light) windows. A staircase of 108 steps leads to the top, which offers panoramic views of the town and surrounding landscape.

Portico and Staircase

The ''Gibbena'' portico, built in 1426 by Archpriest Bernardo Militari, was used to shelter penitents not yet allowed inside the church. The stone staircase, rebuilt in 1766 by Antonino Badalucco, surrounds the entrance and is inscribed with historical markings.

Modern Restoration

In 2013, the church underwent extensive structural reinforcement of the vaulted decorations and general restoration work across the building. Its historic pipe organ was returned to service in 2021 after restoration; a Requiem Mass, presided over by the Bishop of Trapani, marked the occasion.

Gallery

File:Erice-Chiesa-Madre-bjs-1.jpg, Exterior
File:Erice 05.jpg, Interior
File:Erice-Chiesa-Madre-bjs-5.jpg, Gothic-style rose window
File:Erice-Chiesa-Madre-bjs-6.jpg, Entrance
File:Erice-Chiesa-Madre-bjs-3.jpg, Bell Tower

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Matrice Erice
Buildings and structures in the Province of Trapani
Erice
Tourist attractions in Sicily
Norman architecture in Italy
Churches in the province of Trapani
15th-century Roman Catholic church buildings in Italy
Gothic architecture in Sicily
Roman Catholic churches in Sicily
Tourist attractions in Sicily