Buffalo National River
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The Buffalo National River, in Northern
Arkansas Arkansas ( ) is a landlocked state in the West South Central region of the Southern United States. It borders Missouri to the north, Tennessee and Mississippi to the east, Louisiana to the south, Texas to the southwest, and Oklahoma ...
, was the first National River to be designated in the
United States The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 U.S. state, states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 ...
. The Buffalo River is long. The lower flow within the boundaries of an area managed by the
National Park Service The National Park Service (NPS) is an List of federal agencies in the United States, agency of the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government, within the US Department of the Interior. The service manages all List ...
, where the stream is designated the Buffalo National River. The river flows through Newton, Searcy, Marion, and Baxter Counties, from west to east. The river originates in the highest part of the Boston Mountains of the
Ozarks The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, and Oklahoma, as well as a small area in the southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover ...
, flows out onto the Springfield Plateau near the historic community of Erbie, and finally crosses a portion of the Salem Plateau just before joining the White River. The Park is home to the state's only elk herd. The upper section of the river in the Ozark National Forest is managed by the U.S. Forest Service and is designated as a National Scenic River and a National Wild River.


History

The Buffalo National River was established by an
Act of Congress An act of Congress is a statute enacted by the United States Congress. Acts may apply only to individual entities (called Public and private bills, private laws), or to the general public (Public and private bills, public laws). For a Bill (law) ...
on March 1, 1972, ending the recurring plans of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to construct one or more dams on the river. The National River designation protects natural rivers from industrial uses, impoundments and other obstructions that may change the natural character of the river or disrupt the natural habitat for the flora and fauna that live in or near the river. Three segments totaling were designated the Buffalo National River Wilderness in 1975. In 2012, C&H Hog Farms was granted a permit to operate on a major tributary of the Buffalo River. The facility contained over 6,500 hogs, as well as storage areas for their manure. In 2019, the company reached a deal with the State of Arkansas to cease operations on the river. The then-governor of Arkansas,
Asa Hutchinson William Asa Hutchinson II (, ''Help:Pronunciation respelling key, AY-sə''; born December 3, 1950) is an American attorney, businessman, and politician who served as the 46th governor of Arkansas from 2015 to 2023. A member of the Republican Part ...
, subsequently announced a moratorium on large confined animal feeding operations in the river's watershed. In January 2020, the Arkansas Legislature struck down rules set by Hutchison banning similar operations on the river.


Description

At a point about above the Park boundary in
Newton County, Arkansas Newton County is a County (United States), county in the U.S. state of Arkansas. As of the 2020 United States census, 2020 census, the population was 7,225. The county seat is Jasper, Arkansas, Jasper. Newton County is Arkansas's 46th county, ...
, the Buffalo River begins as the Main Prong of Big Buffalo Creek. The river flows north through Boxley to Ponca, where it then begins an eastward trek across northern Arkansas to its confluence with the White River on the Marion-Baxter County line. Advanced canoeists and kayakers often refer to the section upriver from Boxley as the Hailstone River. This extremely challenging section of the river is floatable only during periods of high water and should be attempted only by those with solid whitewater skills. Along the upper river, the gradient is steep and the water is fast, leveling and slowing as the river runs its course. The upper section has most of the whitewater rapids to be found along the river, and features dramatic
karst Karst () is a topography formed from the dissolution of soluble carbonate rocks such as limestone and Dolomite (rock), dolomite. It is characterized by features like poljes above and drainage systems with sinkholes and caves underground. Ther ...
topography including sink holes and
cave Caves or caverns are natural voids under the Earth's Planetary surface, surface. Caves often form by the weathering of rock and often extend deep underground. Exogene caves are smaller openings that extend a relatively short distance undergrou ...
s, springs, and waterfalls, over tall
sandstone Sandstone is a Clastic rock#Sedimentary clastic rocks, clastic sedimentary rock composed mainly of grain size, sand-sized (0.0625 to 2 mm) silicate mineral, silicate grains, Cementation (geology), cemented together by another mineral. Sand ...
and
limestone Limestone is a type of carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material Lime (material), lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different Polymorphism (materials science) ...
bluffs, and many rock formations. At one point, a hike from the river up a narrow, boxed canyon leads to a waterfall, Hemmed-In-Hollow Falls, the highest of its kind between the Southern Appalachians and the Rockies. The river's current also gives life to well over 300 species of fish, insects, freshwater
mussel Mussel () is the common name used for members of several families of bivalve molluscs, from saltwater and Freshwater bivalve, freshwater habitats. These groups have in common a shell whose outline is elongated and asymmetrical compared with other ...
s, and aquatic plants. The Buffalo National River is a popular camping,
hiking A hike is a long, vigorous walk, usually on trails or footpaths in the countryside. Walking for pleasure developed in Europe during the eighteenth century. Long hikes as part of a religious pilgrimage have existed for a much longer time. "Hi ...
,
canoeing Canoeing is an activity which involves paddling a canoe with a single-bladed paddle. In some parts of Europe, canoeing refers to both canoeing and kayaking, with a canoe being called an 'open canoe' or Canadian. A few of the recreational ...
, and fishing destination. Visitors may bring their own canoes or rent from several independent concessioners. Camping is generally allowed throughout the park with the following exceptions: the Hemmed-in-Hollow area, on Big Bluff, in historical structures, on private property within the park, or within of any trail or watercourse. Camping is also permitted on gravel bars and sand bars along the river. The National Park Service has a number of "developed" campgrounds along the river. The National Park Service headquarters for the Buffalo National River is located in
Harrison, Arkansas The city of Harrison is the county seat of Boone County, Arkansas, United States. It is named after Marcus LaRue Harrison, a surveyor who laid out the city along Crooked Creek (Arkansas), Crooked Creek at Stifler Springs. According to 2019 Cen ...
.


Major access areas

*Boxley Bridge – located on the upper end of the river along Arkansas Highway 21. Boxley provides access to the Upper Buffalo Wilderness Area within the Ozark National Forest. Provides river accessBuffalo National River, National Park Service, Government Printing Office, 1998 *''Lost Valley'' - located on Arkansas Highway 43 between Arkansas 21 and Ponca. *Ponca – Location of Beaver Jim Villines Boyhood Home. Ponca retains one of the old ‘low water’ bridges over the Buffalo. All boaters must portage over this barrier. Provides river access *''Steel Creek'' – is located on the upstream side of the Ponca section of the Wilderness. Provides river access *''Kyles Landing'' – is located on the downstream side and across the river from the Ponca Wilderness area. This area was once the home of early frontiersman David Conrad Hennegar "Coon" Arbaugh. Provides river access *''Erbie'' - Erbie retains one of the old ‘low water’ bridges over the Buffalo. Provides river access *''Ozark'' - Provides river access *Pruitt Ranger Station – is on
Arkansas Highway 7 Arkansas Highway 7 (AR 7) is a north–south state highway in Arkansas, United States. As Arkansas's longest state highway, the route runs from the Louisiana state line north to Diamond City. With the exception of the segment north of Harris ...
at the top of the hill overlooking the picnic area and foot access to the river. For boat access, you need to cross the high bridge on Arkansas 7 and use Pruitt Landing. *Pruitt Landing – is located just downstream from Pruitt Ranger Station. Provides river access *''Hasty'' – located off of Arkansas Highway 123, just south of the Hasty community. Provides river access *''Carver'' – located on Hwy 123 between Hasty and Piercetown (Arkansas Hwy 74). Provides river access *''Mount Hersey'' – is accessible from unimproved roads. From this access point, ‘Tha Nars’ (Narrows) and Skull Bluff are reached downstream. Provides river access *''Woolum'' - Provides river access *Tyler Bend Visitor Center – is the primary public contact area. It's just off of U.S. 65. There is a full-service visitor center, picnic area, campground and ranger station. Provides river access Additionally, the ‘Colliers Homestead’ preserves a record of life in the mountainsCurrents; National Park Service, Buffalo River, 2008 *''Grinders Ferry'' – is located at the Highway 65 Bridge over the Buffalo River. Provides river access *''Gilbert'' – is at the end of Arkansas Highway 333 a short off U.S. 65. Provides river access *''Maumee North'' – is on the north side of the river and west of Maumee South. It is accessed by an unimproved road. Provides river access *''Maumee South'' – is on the south side of the river and is accessed from an unimproved road beyond the end of the pavement on County Road 49. *Dillards Ferry – is located on
Arkansas Highway 14 Arkansas Highway 14 (AR 14) is a designation for two List of state highways in Arkansas, state highways in the U.S. state of Arkansas. One segment of begins east of Table Rock Lake and runs east to Interstate 555 (I-555) at Payneway, Arkansas, ...
at the bridge over the Buffalo River. Provides river access *Buffalo Point Ranger Station – is at the end of the pavement on Arkansas Highway 268. Provides river access *''Rushland'' – is reached by an unimproved road beyond the end of the pavement on County 26. It provides access across the river to the Leatherwood Wilderness in the Ozark National Forest. Provides river access *Buffalo City – is located outside the National River at the junction of the Buffalo River with its parent the White River. Buffalo City is located off the US 62–412 in Mountain Home on Arkansas Highway 162, about 12 miles from Mountain Home. Provides river access, primarily as the last take out for the Buffalo River along with boat rentals, camping, and cabins.


See also

* Buffalo River Trail * Buffalo River State Park Historic District * Big Buffalo Valley Historic District * Rush Historic District * Parker-Hickman Farm Historic District


References


Further reading

* ''The Buffalo River in Black and White''. University of Arkansas Press, 1998. * ''The Buffalo Flows: The Story of Our First National River''. University of Arkansas Press, 2009. *''The Battle for the Buffalo River: The Story of America's First National River.'' University of Arkansas Press, 2010.


External links


National Park Service Buffalo River webpageMap of the Buffalo National River, PDF format, 226KBBuffalo National River information
* {{authority control * Rivers of Arkansas Bodies of water of the Ozarks Protected areas of the U.S. Interior Highlands Protected areas established in 1972 National Park Service areas in Arkansas National Park Service Wild and Scenic Rivers Tributaries of the White River (Arkansas–Missouri) Protected areas of Newton County, Arkansas Protected areas of Searcy County, Arkansas Protected areas of Marion County, Arkansas Protected areas of Baxter County, Arkansas Ozark–St. Francis National Forest Bodies of water of Newton County, Arkansas Bodies of water of Searcy County, Arkansas Rivers of Marion County, Arkansas Rivers of Baxter County, Arkansas 1972 establishments in Arkansas