Barbara í Gongini
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Barbara í Gongini (born 12 June 1966) is a Faroese-Danish avant-garde
fashion designer Fashion design is the Art (skill), art of applied arts, applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction, and natural beauty to clothing and its Fashion accessory, accessories. It is influenced by diverse cultures and different trends and has va ...
from Fuglafjørður, Faroe Islands.


Early life and education

Barbara í Gongini is a Faroese
avant-garde In the arts and literature, the term ''avant-garde'' ( meaning or ) identifies an experimental genre or work of art, and the artist who created it, which usually is aesthetically innovative, whilst initially being ideologically unacceptable ...
fashion designer who was born in
Fuglafjørður Fuglafjørður () is a village on Eysturoy's east coast in the Faroe Islands. Its name means "fjord of birds". The village is at the edge of a bay and expands into the surrounding steep hills. The town centre is located close to the harbour a ...
and grew up in the old part of
Tórshavn Tórshavn (; ; Danish language, Danish: ''Thorshavn''), usually locally referred to as simply Havn, is the capital and largest city of the Faroe Islands. It is located in the southern part on the east coast of Streymoy. To the northwest of th ...
, the capital city of the
Faroe Islands The Faroe Islands ( ) (alt. the Faroes) are an archipelago in the North Atlantic Ocean and an autonomous territory of the Danish Realm, Kingdom of Denmark. Located between Iceland, Norway, and the United Kingdom, the islands have a populat ...
. As a child, she always had an inclination for the arts and design, which led her to study painting, art and textile construction, graduating in 1990. Gongini completed her design education at Denmark's School of Design, at the Institute of Unica Design, in 1996. Growing up with the values of the Faroe Islands, a small community that places focus on using the most of raw natural resources, influenced Gongini's approach to fashion, inspiring her to create designs that are rich in multi-functional elements, so that they can be reused and transformed.


Fashion design career

Gongini's first clothing collection was made from fabric residue and launched in 2000, when she was still part of the Könrøg movement. Könrøg was an artist collective formed by 10 Danish artists between 2001 and 2006, in response to the Antwerp Six designer collective that existed in the '80s. In the early 2000s, she was also part of the team behind the Könrøg clothing store in
Copenhagen Copenhagen ( ) is the capital and most populous city of Denmark, with a population of 1.4 million in the Urban area of Copenhagen, urban area. The city is situated on the islands of Zealand and Amager, separated from Malmö, Sweden, by the ...
, which at the time was known as the capital's most hip shop with Danish
designer A designer is a person who plans the form or structure of something before it is made, by preparing drawings or plans. In practice, anyone who creates tangible or intangible objects, products, processes, laws, games, graphics, services, or exper ...
clothes and
Alternative fashion Alternative fashion or alt fashion is fashion that stands apart from mainstream, commercial fashion. It includes both styles which do not conform to the mainstream fashion of their time and the styles of specific subcultures (such as emo, goth, hip ...
, for those who dared to stand out. Gongini stopped working for Könrøg in 2004 in order to focus on her design career, while the store closed down two year later, in 2006. In 2005, Gongini established her namesake label, with the brand name stylised as BARBARA I GONGINI. In the early days, the BARBARA I GONGINI collections were created for both men and women, focusing on androgyny and multifunctionality. The menswear line only became separate starting with the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, which was presented at the
Copenhagen Fashion Week Copenhagen Fashion Week is an international fashion event in Copenhagen, Denmark. This biannual event is organized by the Danish Fashion Institute. History The first Copenhagen Fashion Week was held in 2006, following the merger of the Danish cl ...
. In her fashion designs, she makes extensive use of draping and layering techniques, often creating asymmetrical garments that can be worn in multiple ways. Juxtaposition and deconstruction play a central part, with Gongini predominantly using black and non-colors 'to allow fabrics and textures to speak as color instead'. She combines a variety of natural and recycled textiles, sometimes mixing several types of materials, such as wool, leather, cotton and plastic, in a single garment. Gongini's leather garments are often treated to give a dramatic texture that is reminiscent of the Faroese landscape. Her designs are available at the BARBARA I GONGINI headquarters showroom in Copenhagen and in specialized avant-garde clothing stores worldwide. Gongini's avant-garde design philosophy means that the collections are not trend-based, but focus on 'nurturing a longevity formula'. She often compares her collections to new chapters to turn to in a story, describing them as 'numerical'. As a proponent of the zero-waste wardrobe, she seeks to lengthen the life-cycle of garments through innovative designs called 'multiways'. Although her fashion collections integrate
sustainability Sustainability is a social goal for people to co-exist on Earth over a long period of time. Definitions of this term are disputed and have varied with literature, context, and time. Sustainability usually has three dimensions (or pillars): env ...
principles and she has been said to be 'ahead of her time when it comes to sustainability', Gongini is known for making exceptions 'if a few materials do not quite meet the standards', in order not to compromise on design. Nominated for the Danish Fashion Award Committee's Ethical Award in 2010, she was also selected to represent
Denmark Denmark is a Nordic countries, Nordic country in Northern Europe. It is the metropole and most populous constituent of the Kingdom of Denmark,, . also known as the Danish Realm, a constitutionally unitary state that includes the Autonomous a ...
at the Nordic Eco Fashion and Product Design Exhibition in
Berlin Berlin ( ; ) is the Capital of Germany, capital and largest city of Germany, by both area and List of cities in Germany by population, population. With 3.7 million inhabitants, it has the List of cities in the European Union by population withi ...
. Her runway collections were first shown at the
Paris Fashion Week Paris Fashion Week (, commonly ) is a series of designer presentations held semi-annually in Paris, France, with spring/summer and autumn/winter events held each year. Dates are determined by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Pa ...
in 2017. At this time, she also presented the film MODULE MODULAR, a video collaboration with director and photographer Mikkel Völcker. In 2018, Barbara í Gongini was awarded the
Faroese Cultural Prize Mentanarvirðisløn Landsins (Faroese Cultural Prize) has been awarded by the Faroese government to Faroe Islands, Faroese Faroese literature, writers, Music of the Faroe Islands, musicians, artists etc. since 1998. In 2004 no award was given. From ...
, the highest distinction that a person of culture can receive in the Faroe Islands.


Artistic collaborations

During her career, Gongini has been an active participant in the Nordic art discourse, joining interdisciplinary collaborations showcased around the world. Notable examples include "The Weather Diaries", an exhibition which was part of the third Nordic Fashion Biennale, shown at the
Museum Angewandte Kunst The Museum Angewandte Kunst (MAK) is located in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, and is part of Frankfurt's Museumsufer (Museum Riverbank). The alternating exhibitions recount tales of cultural values and changing living conditions. Beyond that, the ...
in
Frankfurt Frankfurt am Main () is the most populous city in the States of Germany, German state of Hesse. Its 773,068 inhabitants as of 2022 make it the List of cities in Germany by population, fifth-most populous city in Germany. Located in the forela ...
and the Nordic Heritage Museum in
Seattle, Washington Seattle ( ) is the List of municipalities in Washington, most populous city in the U.S. state of Washington (state), Washington and in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. With a population of 780,995 in 2024, it is the List of Unit ...
, and "Outer Dark", a collaboration that saw her work exhibited next to household avant-garde fashion names such as
Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. Considered a master tailor alongside those such as Madeleine Vionnet, he is known for his avant-garde tailoring featuring Japanese design aesthetics. Yamamoto has won notable awards fo ...
,
Martin Margiela Martin Margiela (born 9 April 1957) is a Belgian fashion designer, artist, and founder of the French luxury fashion house Maison Margiela. Throughout his career, Margiela has maintained a low profile, refusing to grant face-to-face interviews o ...
and
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen (brand), Alexander McQueen label in 1992 and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His ac ...
.


In popular culture

Barbara I Gongini's designs have been spotted on celebrities such as
Florence Welch Florence Leontine Mary Welch
(born 28 ...
of
Florence and the Machine Florence and the Machine (stylised as Florence + the Machine) are an English indie rock band formed in London in 2007 by lead vocalist Florence Welch, keyboardist Isabella Summers, guitarist Rob Ackroyd, drummer Christopher Lloyd Hayden and harp ...
, in her 2012
music video A music video is a video that integrates a song or an album with imagery that is produced for promotion (marketing), promotional or musical artistic purposes. Modern music videos are primarily made and used as a music marketing device intended to ...
for Never Let Me Go, as well as on
Lenny Kravitz Leonard Albert Kravitz (born May 26, 1964) is an American singer, musician, songwriter, record producer, and actor. His debut album ''Let Love Rule (Lenny Kravitz album), Let Love Rule'' (1989) was characterized by a blend of Rock music, rock ...
,
Rihanna Robyn Rihanna Fenty ( ; born February 20, 1988) is a Barbadian singer, businesswoman, and actress. One of the List of music artists by net worth, wealthiest musicians in the world, List of awards and nominations received by Rihanna, her vario ...
and
Chelsea Wolfe Chelsea Joy Wolfe (born November 14, 1983) is an American singer-songwriter and musician. Her work blends elements of gothic rock, doom metal, and folk music, folk. Growing up in Northern California with a country musician father, Wolfe began ...


References


External links


Barbara I Gongini Official SiteVogue Fashion Shows - Barbara I GonginiBarbara I Gongini at Notjustalabel.comBarbara I Gongini at Modem Online
{{DEFAULTSORT:Gongini i, Barbara High fashion brands People from Copenhagen Danish fashion designers Danish women fashion designers 1966 births Living people Faroese designers