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A ball gown, ballgown or gown is a type of evening gown worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low décolletage, exposed arms, and long bouffant styled skirts. Such gowns are typically worn with an opera-length white gloves and vintage jewelry or couture, stole (a formal shawl in expensive fabric),
cape A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment which drapes the wearer's back, arms, and chest, and connects at the neck. History Capes were common in medieval Europe, especially when combined with a hood in the chaperon. T ...
or
cloak A cloak is a type of loose garment worn over clothing, mostly but not always as outerwear for outdoor wear, serving the same purpose as an overcoat, protecting the wearer from the weather. It may form part of a uniform. Cloaks have been and ...
in lieu of a coat. Where " state decorations" are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a tiara if they have one. Although synthetic fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are satin, silk, taffeta and velvet with trimmings of lace,
pearls A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle (mollusc), mantle) of a living animal shell, shelled mollusk or another animal, such as fossil conulariids. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pea ...
, sequins,
embroidery Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen ...
, ruffles, ribbons, rosettes and
ruching In knitting Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile, or fabric. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row, eit ...
.


History


1850s

In previous years, the same type of dress might have been called an evening dress, having very similar features; low-cut neckline, a tight bodice, a large skirt and (sometimes) bare arms. The ball gown at this time had similar features, a full skirt supported by a
petticoat A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries. According to the ''Oxford English Dictionary'', in current British E ...
, a tight waist achieved by a corset or bodice with a stay to keep the subject upright and with perfect posture, off the shoulder style and with bare arms. In the coming years, the introduction of the sewing machine changed the dress market. Middle-class people could now produce their own dresses and with more quality and efficiency than before when they were made by hand. Upper class members of society might still have had their dresses made by a designer but with the turn around time decreased. Around this time was also the introduction of chemical dyes. This dramatically changed the range of colors that dresses could be produced in. This time was encompassed within the Romantic period, which coincided with the Victorian era. During this time the crinoline was introduced as well as demure sleeves, which puffed up around the arm.


1860–1864

Skirts had developed an overall bell shape but with extra fullness at the back.


1865–1867

Skirts lost their front shape and were altered to lay more flat against the body while the sides and back gained fullness with pleating techniques. Oftentimes a long train was attached to the back of the skirt.


1868–1878

For the next 10 years the fullness in the back of the skirts increased further with the use of the bustle.


1878–1884

The bustle went out of style because it was not needed anymore for the fullness in the back of the dress. The material instead was gathered and fell down the back which ended with a long train.


1890–1900

The hourglass shape emerged which was known for a narrow waist. It was achieved by having a cone-shaped skirt that was narrow at the waist and gained fullness near the bottom. After the end of World War II, in 1947, Christian Dior introduced his "New Look" of nipped-in waistlines and full skirts.


1950s

Previously, ball gowns were worn for private events and parties, but in the mid-20th century, private events turned into public ones. As the century progressed, traditional events became less important while ones like charity events took their place. In 21st century culture, galas and red carpet events are showcases for extravagant gowns to be in the public eye. In Britain, when Elizabeth II terminated formal court events in 1957, the more public events, like a charity ball, arose in popularity because they were open to anyone who could afford to buy a ticket. Designer dresses were typically part of a designer's collection, having them altered for the wearer. Designers need to know where a dress will be worn to avoid two people from matching. But if the original wearer decides to wear the dress to another event afterwards, the possibility of matching is increased. In modern times, designers must understand that their pieces of work will be criticized and also praised as a result of the internet and paparazzi.


Gallery

File:Modification de la taile1872 1877 1880.gif, The gown on the far right is an accurate representation of one that would be worn in 1880. File:Illustrated fashion catalogue - summer, 1890 (1890) (14597303469).jpg, "Hourglass" shape of 1900 File:Buenos Aires - Eva Perón de gala en fundación del Teatro Colón.jpeg, Eva Perón wearing a gown by Christian Dior, 1950 File:Two Jean Dessès evening gowns, 1951.jpg, Two Jean Dessès ball gowns, 1951


Culture

The first forms of the 21st century term “ debutante ball” or “ cotillion” emerged in the mid 19th century with what was called a “coming out ball”. These events were meant to show off the women who were now of marriageable age. Traditionally the debutantes will wear all white, but with varying styles of dress. While the style of dress can vary, strapless and sleeveless variations are popular and are typically worn with white long gloves and can be accessorized with bouquets, and sometimes a fan. For most of the 19th century, a headdress with veiling was a popular style as well as a full train attached at the waist and in later years it would attach to the shoulders. File:Debutantes having a dress rehearsal, February 2009.jpg, File:Debutante-dress.jpg, File:Agnes Melanie Dickson as a debutante, ca. 1890 (9306366314).jpg, The traditional ideals of the debutante ball vary based on location in the United States. The debutantes in
New Orleans New Orleans ( , ,New Orleans
Texas Texas (, ; Spanish language, Spanish: ''Texas'', ''Tejas'') is a state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States. At 268,596 square miles (695,662 km2), and with more than 29.1 million residents in 2 ...
has variations within its various regions. In Laredo, middle class debutantes wear beaded suede garments. In San Antonio, the dresses are of elaborate colors and covered in beads of different designs. The beads add extensive weight having some dresses weigh in at about 75 lbs. Another coming of age event is the
quinceañera A (also , , , and ) is a celebration of a girl's 15th birthday. It has pre-Columbian roots in Mexico (Aztecs) and is widely celebrated by girls throughout Latin America. The girl celebrating her 15th birthday is a (; gender (linguistics), ...
, an event in Latin American cultures when a girl turns 15. Their gowns are often very brightly colored and resemble traditional ball gowns with very full ruffled or ruched skirts. File:Quinceañera. Santa Fe (14369403262).jpg, File:Quinceañeras 2011 - Pasarela (5580591293).jpg, File:Pasarela de las "Quinceañeras del Bicentenario" (4458414368).jpg, File:Quinceañera. Santa Fe (14184259179).jpg, Quinceanera photo from Santa Fe, New Mexico


First Ladies Collection

In 1912, Helen Taft along with collection founders Cassie Mason Myers Julian-James, Rose Gouverneur Hoes, and the Smithsonian Institution started the “First Ladies Collection.” It is customary for the first lady of the United States to donate the dress she wears to the inauguration ball but it is not required. Every first lady is represented in the collection although they are not all inaugural dresses. Mrs. Taft started this tradition when she donated her dress that she wore during President Taft's inauguration. Typically the dresses were added to the collection after the first lady had left office but in 1955 the public uproar to see Mamie Eisenhower's inaugural dress was so strong that the Smithsonian changed their policy and added her dress immediately, not waiting until she left office. File:Smithsonian National Museum of American History - Helen Tafts Inaugural Ball Gown (3425448486).jpg, Helen Taft's ball gown File:Smithsonian National Museum of American History - Mamie Eisenhowers Evening Gown (3425451492).jpg, Mamie Eisenhower's ball gown File:Hearth Truth red dresses.jpg,


See also

* Ball (dance) * Ballerina skirt * Crinoline * Clothing terminology * Dress codes


References


Further reading

* {{Clothing 19th-century fashion 20th-century fashion 21st-century fashion Dancewear Gowns History of clothing (Western fashion) History of fashion Balls (dance party)