André Soltner

André Soltner (; 20 November 1932 – 18 January 2025) was a French-American chef and author, based for decades at New York City's Lutèce, from its opening in 1961 as chef, later as partner and from 1973 as owner until 1994. He ran the restaurant together with his wife, Simone. He was internationally recognized, regarded as one of America's first superstar chefs, and the restaurant as America's Best French Restaurant. Soltner later served as Dean of Classic Studies at the French Culinary Institute.

Career

Soltner was born in Thann in Alsace, on 20 November 1932, the son of a cabinet maker. The boy wanted to follow in his father's trade, but when the business went to his older brother, he turned to cooking, impressed by his mother's devotion to it. He started his career at age 15 at the Hôtel du Parc in Mulhouse with a three-year apprenticeship, learning all stations of the kitchen. He then trained also at restaurants of hotels in Normandy and in Switzerland. After military service, he became chef at Chez Hansi in Paris, an Alsatian brasserie where Simone Gomez, his future wife, was a waitress. He was recognized there by Andre Surmain who suggested running a restaurant in New York City together.

Soltner became chef at Lutèce when Surmain opened it in 1961, at age 29. The first review in ''The New York Times'' by Craig Claiborne, one month after the opening, described the place as "impressively elegant and conspicuously expensive" and awarded only one star for the food. André and Simone Soltner married in 1962; she helped with taking care of the guests. The first years of the restaurant were difficult; Soltner struggled with lack of high-quality ingredients, saying “No chanterelles, no Dover sole. The bread was miserable." When he wanted to return to France, Surmain offered him partnership, and he and his wife moved into the same building, overlooking the team closely.

Lutèce has been compared to a gilded bistro, serving specialties from Alsace in an intimate setting. Soltner's wife also worked at the restaurant in reception and management. Soltner was a pioneer in having high ingredient quality standards, such as fresh fish flown in overnight. He had contracts with farmers to supply shallots and mushrooms. His technique was described as flawless and his approach to French cuisine as "modern-minded. He served classic dishes such as tournedos Wellington, pied de porc, hot raspberry souffle and petits fours. The restaurant rose in recognition by both diners and critics, achieving a four-star rating from ''The New York Times''. Soltner became the sole owner in 1972. He missed only 4 days while at Lutèce, because of funerals in his family.

Soltner sold the restaurant in 1994, after working there for 33 years, to Ark Restaurants, which ran it until it closed in 2004. It remained one of the highly ranked restaurants in the U.S.

Soltner received more than 25 awards, including the French government's Légion d'honneur and Officier du Mérite National. He was honored with the James Beard Foundation's Lifetime Achievement Award, the 1968 Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and was a Chevalier du Mérite Agricole.

Soltner was a member of several culinary organizations, including the American Institute of Wine & Food, for which he and his wife established the André and Simone Soltner Food Education Scholarship to support applicants pursuing a culinary career. He also served for more than 20 years as Délegué Général of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France and was a trustee of the Société Culinaire Philanthropique.

Soltner served as Dean of Classic Studies at the French Culinary Institute, part of the new International Culinary Center in New York City.

Personal life

Soltner was married to Simone, who worked at the restaurant with him; they had no children. They lived in the apartment above the restaurant until 2004, when they moved to a new apartment in Manhattan. They spent Sundays at a home in Hunter Mountain where he liked to ski. Simone Soltner died in 2016. He also had a home in Cannes.

Soltner died at a hospital in Charlottesville, Virginia, on 18 January 2025, at the age of 92. He was visiting Maryvonne Gasparini, a companion.

References

External links

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Lutèce Cookbook
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Soltner, Andre
1932 births
2025 deaths
French chefs
French food writers
French male chefs
French male non-fiction writers
French restaurateurs
James Beard Foundation Award winners
People from Alsace