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Almoravid and Almohad textiles were produced within parts of northwest Africa and Spain between 1058 and 1269 CE under the
Almoravid The Almoravid dynasty () was a Berber Muslim dynasty centered in the territory of present-day Morocco. It established an empire that stretched over the western Maghreb and Al-Andalus, starting in the 1050s and lasting until its fall to the Almo ...
(1050s–1147) and
Almohad The Almohad Caliphate (; or or from ) or Almohad Empire was a North African Berber Muslim empire founded in the 12th century. At its height, it controlled much of the Iberian Peninsula (Al-Andalus) and North Africa (the Maghreb). The Almohad ...
(1147–1269) caliphates. Production in the
Iberian Peninsula The Iberian Peninsula ( ), also known as Iberia, is a peninsula in south-western Europe. Mostly separated from the rest of the European landmass by the Pyrenees, it includes the territories of peninsular Spain and Continental Portugal, comprisin ...
was first established under the
Umayyad Caliphate The Umayyad Caliphate or Umayyad Empire (, ; ) was the second caliphate established after the death of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and was ruled by the Umayyad dynasty. Uthman ibn Affan, the third of the Rashidun caliphs, was also a member o ...
, and it became centered in major cities such as
Almería Almería (, , ) is a city and municipalities in Spain, municipality of Spain, located in Andalusia. It is the capital of the province of Almería, province of the same name. It lies in southeastern Iberian Peninsula, Iberia on the Mediterranean S ...
,
Seville Seville ( ; , ) is the capital and largest city of the Spain, Spanish autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Andalusia and the province of Seville. It is situated on the lower reaches of the Guadalquivir, River Guadalquivir, ...
, and
Málaga Málaga (; ) is a Municipalities in Spain, municipality of Spain, capital of the Province of Málaga, in the Autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Andalusia. With a population of 591,637 in 2024, it is the second-most populo ...
, each of which were home to
Tirāz ''Tiraz'' (; or ) The Persian language, Persian word for a type of embroidery and Textile, clothing textiles, are medieval Islamic embroideries, usually in the form of armbands sewn onto robes of honour (khilat). They were bestowed upon high-r ...
factories which produced silks and other textiles. These textiles were made in a wide range of techniques and styles, and the high quality and richness of the fabric lead to Iberian silks being highly sought after. Due to their valuable nature, Almohad and Almoravid textiles were spread throughout
Europe Europe is a continent located entirely in the Northern Hemisphere and mostly in the Eastern Hemisphere. It is bordered by the Arctic Ocean to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the Mediterranean Sea to the south, and Asia to the east ...
,
North Africa North Africa (sometimes Northern Africa) is a region encompassing the northern portion of the African continent. There is no singularly accepted scope for the region. However, it is sometimes defined as stretching from the Atlantic shores of t ...
, and the
Middle East The Middle East (term originally coined in English language) is a geopolitical region encompassing the Arabian Peninsula, the Levant, Turkey, Egypt, Iran, and Iraq. The term came into widespread usage by the United Kingdom and western Eur ...
through extensive trade routes.


Origins and development

The basis for textile production and trade in
al-Andalus Al-Andalus () was the Muslim-ruled area of the Iberian Peninsula. The name refers to the different Muslim states that controlled these territories at various times between 711 and 1492. At its greatest geographical extent, it occupied most o ...
was established with Tirāz factories that predated the Almoravids and Almohads in Almería and Seville, and other cities throughout Iberia. The first proof of silk production in the region was the establishment of a Tirāz weaving workshop in Córdoba under the reign of Umayyad Caliph 'Abd al-Rahmān II (ruled 821-852). The first evidence of drawlooms appears in the 11th century, with three silks found in the church of Saint Isidoro in León. Techniques such as the weaving of lampas silk arrived in al-Andalus from places like
Baghdad Baghdad ( or ; , ) is the capital and List of largest cities of Iraq, largest city of Iraq, located along the Tigris in the central part of the country. With a population exceeding 7 million, it ranks among the List of largest cities in the A ...
around the beginning of the 12th century, and soon, those techniques were replicated in the Iberian peninsula. During the beginning of the Almoravid period
asceticism Asceticism is a lifestyle characterized by abstinence from worldly pleasures through self-discipline, self-imposed poverty, and simple living, often for the purpose of pursuing Spirituality, spiritual goals. Ascetics may withdraw from the world ...
was preferred by the Almoravids, which can be seen in the architecture of their early reign. However, ‘
Ali ibn Yusuf Ali ibn Yusuf (also known as "Ali Ben Youssef") () (c. 1084 – 28 January 1143) was the 5th Almoravid emir. He reigned from 1106 to 1143. Early life Ali ibn Yusuf was born in 1084–1085 (477 AH) in Ceuta. He was the son of Yusuf ibn Tashf ...
, 5th Emir, notably shifted away from earlier simplicity, and adopted the local Andalusian styles. This included Andalusian textiles, such as the chasuble of San Juan de Ortega at Quintanaortuña, which is a piece of Almohad weaving and an example of Almerían silk production that has been used to characterize other silks of the period, and bears his name in an inscription. The group of associated silks feature both floral and animal motifs, which appear throughout textiles from the period. Under Almoravid rule, textile production was further expanded into Málaga, which became known for its gold silk
brocade Brocade () is a class of richly decorative shuttle (weaving), shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian langua ...
, though Almería continued to be singled out as the leading location for trade and manufacturing. Approximately 800 silk workshops were noted within the city of Almería circa 1154 CE, which worked in different styles and types of silk textile. The Almohads succeeded the Almoravids after destroying their empire and conquering
Morocco Morocco, officially the Kingdom of Morocco, is a country in the Maghreb region of North Africa. It has coastlines on the Mediterranean Sea to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and has land borders with Algeria to Algeria–Morocc ...
and Islamic Spain over a period of three years from 1144 to 1147. Silk textiles for exportation continued to be produced at a rate similar to how they had been throughout the previous periods, but the rate produced for nobility within al-Andalus slowed. In the same locations, weaving patterns in the Almohad period showed a stylistic turn towards
geometric design Geometrical design (GD) is a branch of computational geometry. It deals with the construction and representation of free-form curves, surfaces, or volumes and is closely related to geometric modeling. Core problems are curve and surface modelli ...
.


Trade and transmission

The Almoravids spanned across North Africa to al-Andalus, or Islamic Spain. This guaranteed them control of Trans-Saharan trade. Naturally, this facilitated the cultural exchange of ideas, materials, styles, and methods. This land continued to be a center of trade through to the Almohad dynasty. Almerían silks were particularly sought after by people from all over the world, and they drew many to the markets of Almería, which was the center of textile production. The Almoravid dynasty’s expansion into al-Andalus around 1085 was the catalyst for the booming textile market that would soon come to be. The Almoravids brought styles and practices from North Africa, such as Egypt, to Spain, which collided and mixed to form a highly sought-after, high-quality product. Tirāz workshops were formed as part of the royal court of the Umayyad dynasty in
Córdoba Córdoba most commonly refers to: * Córdoba, Spain, a major city in southern Spain and formerly the imperial capital of Islamic Spain * Córdoba, Argentina, the second largest city in Argentina and the capital of Córdoba Province Córdoba or Cord ...
and are the first solid evidence of textile manufacture in the area. This textile manufacturing center eventually moved to Almería, and at the same time, power shifted from the Umayyads to the Almoravids. However, due to poor documentation, the origins of certain practices and styles are not firmly known. It is possible that settlers from
Syria Syria, officially the Syrian Arab Republic, is a country in West Asia located in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Levant. It borders the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Turkey to Syria–Turkey border, the north, Iraq to Iraq–Syria border, t ...
introduced the practice to al-Andalus.
Byzantium Byzantium () or Byzantion () was an ancient Greek city in classical antiquity that became known as Constantinople in late antiquity and Istanbul today. The Greek name ''Byzantion'' and its Latinization ''Byzantium'' continued to be used as a n ...
textiles also influenced those in Almería due to proximity. The weavers who set up shop in Andalusia were from many different parts of the Muslim world, so while the dynasty didn’t exactly bring an “Almoravid” style to the land, it financially supported the industry, as it was one of the primary sources of income for the area. Many of the silks produced, in fact, were made to imitate the quality and style of Baghdadi silks. These imitations were known as bagdadíes. However, a result of cultural exchange is the emergence of new styles, and such was the case with the Baghdadi imitations. Many considered the quality and style of Almerían silks to surpass those of Baghdad, and people in other areas of the world began to create imitations of the Almerían silks themselves. Almerían silks conveyed a sense of luxury and were prized across Europe, Asia, and Africa. Particular references to them can be found in many French sources wishing to emulate a luxurious setting. Merchants worldwide would arrive at the Almerían port by ship with luxury goods to trade in exchange for textiles, particularly silks. The production of Almerían silks was threatened as the Almohad dynasty came into power in the area. The Almohad rulers were not keen on textiles, preferring a style of “simplicity”. Though they restricted the luxuriousness of fabrics their subjects wore, the production of silks did not halt in the area. This could be attributed to its financial importance and the all-encompassing cultural significance of textiles in the area. Though production was not halted, the style did change due to the preferences of the Almohad rulers.


Function and uses

The textiles produced in Almería under the Almoravids served several functions. Primarily, they were decorative. The intricate nature of the textiles made it so they were usually not used in practical situations where they would become damaged or worn quickly; They were a luxury good. Textiles were made for dress, decorative tapestries, carpets, and more. Notably, they were an important symbol of social and political status as well as an outlet for artistic endeavors. At the head of the Almohad period, there was a decline in luxury textiles used for dress due to the Islamic principle of partaking in a simpler style of clothing preferred by the rulers. However, outside of the empire, luxury textiles and silks created in this region were still being adorned popularly across cultural and religious boundaries.  


Almerían silks

The city of
Almería Almería (, , ) is a city and municipalities in Spain, municipality of Spain, located in Andalusia. It is the capital of the province of Almería, province of the same name. It lies in southeastern Iberian Peninsula, Iberia on the Mediterranean S ...
was a prominent hub of textile manufacturing during the Almoravid period. One of the largest cities in Andalusia, it flourished under Almoravid rule. Muslim cartographer
Muhammad Al-Idrisi Abu Abdullah Muhammad al-Idrisi al-Qurtubi al-Hasani as-Sabti, or simply al-Idrisi (; ; 1100–1165), was an Arab Muslim geographer and cartographer who served in the court of King Roger II at Palermo, Sicily. Muhammad al-Idrisi was born in C ...
noted over 800 silk workshops producing a variety of styles. Almerían silks were renowned for their luxury within contemporary French and German literature, and the city’s location allowed it to take advantage of Mediterranean trade and the Almoravid dynasty’s internal trade networks. Some of the varieties of silks produced in the city mimicked styles from Baghdad and
Isfahan Isfahan or Esfahan ( ) is a city in the Central District (Isfahan County), Central District of Isfahan County, Isfahan province, Iran. It is the capital of the province, the county, and the district. It is located south of Tehran. The city ...
, showing a broad cross-pollination in textile manufacturing techniques between the Islamic world. After a siege of the city by the
Kingdom of Castile The Kingdom of Castile (; : ) was a polity in the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages. It traces its origins to the 9th-century County of Castile (, ), as an eastern frontier lordship of the Kingdom of León. During the 10th century, the Ca ...
in 1147, the city’s prominence declined, but it remained a center of trade into the Almohad period. The silk goods produced included luxury fabrics and brocades called "''dihaj''" and "''siqlatun''" respectively, silk threads, curtains and netting, striped silks called "''attabi''", knotted silks called "''muajar''", silks of
Isfahan Isfahan or Esfahan ( ) is a city in the Central District (Isfahan County), Central District of Isfahan County, Isfahan province, Iran. It is the capital of the province, the county, and the district. It is located south of Tehran. The city ...
i style and more. At the height of Almoravid prosperity, in the 12th century, imitations of
Baghdad Baghdad ( or ; , ) is the capital and List of largest cities of Iraq, largest city of Iraq, located along the Tigris in the central part of the country. With a population exceeding 7 million, it ranks among the List of largest cities in the A ...
i silks were especially prized, of which the shroud of San Pedro de Osma is a notable example. Almería was, along with Cordoba, Malaga, and
Seville Seville ( ; , ) is the capital and largest city of the Spain, Spanish autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Andalusia and the province of Seville. It is situated on the lower reaches of the Guadalquivir, River Guadalquivir, ...
, one of the centers of silk weaving crafts mentioned most frequently by the writers Ibn Hawkal,
Yakut Yakut or Yakutian may refer to: * Yakuts, the Turkic peoples indigenous to the Sakha Republic * Yakut language, a Turkic language * Yakut scripts, Scripts used to write the Yakut language * Yakut (name) * Yakut Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic ...
, and Makkari.


Tirāz factories

Tirāz factory manufacturing of luxury fabrics dates back to the middle of the eighth century following
Muslim conquest of Spain The Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula (; 711–720s), also known as the Arab conquest of Spain, was the Umayyad conquest of the Visigothic Kingdom of Hispania in the early 8th century. The conquest resulted in the end of Christian rule in ...
. Originally established in Córdoba, the Dar al-Tirāz, royal workshop, initially signaled Córdoba as the primary textile power in al-Andalus. Following the installation of the Almoravids, however, the textile industry and Dar al-Tirāz shifted to Almería. Almería was an important port as it allowed for greater trade between other Mediterranean empires. At the Almerían port, “ships arrived loaded with exotic merchandise and departed full of silks, ceramics, marbles and other luxury objects." Luxury textile production existed within the Dar al-Tirāz and in private workshops. Almería’s eight hundred workshops made fine thread, richly woven fabrics, and brocades for those in high position in Almoravid society, like
caliphs A caliphate ( ) is an institution or public office under the leadership of an Islamic steward with the title of caliph (; , ), a person considered a political–religious successor to the Islamic prophet Muhammad and a leader of the enti ...
and
emirs Emir (; ' (), also transliterated as amir, is a word of Arabic origin that can refer to a male monarch, aristocrat, holder of high-ranking military or political office, or other person possessing actual or ceremonial authority. The title has ...
, and the many delegations of representatives visiting al-Andalus. The downfall of the Almoravid empire represented a great change for the textile industry in al-Andalus. The Almohads’ initial rejection of the textile industry defines most scholarship on the textile transition between empires.
Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur Abū Yūsuf Yaʿqūb ibn Yūsuf ibn Abd al-Muʾmin al-Manṣūr (; d. 23 January 1199), commonly known as Yaqub al-Mansur () or Moulay Yacoub (), was the third Almohad caliph. Succeeding his father, al-Mansur reigned from 1184 to 1199. His reig ...
, a caliph of the Almohad empire, commanded the sale of many textiles held in tirāz and prohibited luxurious garments, including women’s embroidered gowns. Many scholars believe that the Almohads halted textile production in alignment with religious beliefs of “piety and simplicity” that “ lorifiedthe word of God as its primary aim." Recently, however, scholars such as Laura Rodríguez Peinado have suggested that the halt in textile production “could have been due to the hatred that the Almohads showed for their predecessors, the Almoravids." In small, private workshops, the production and exportation of luxury textiles continued, maintaining Almería’s wealth. Textile production slowly picked back up under later Almohad rule, never reaching its former renown, but still developing a new, distinctive Almohad design, notably with fewer figural motifs.


Major examples


Almoravid pieces

Many of the remaining fabrics from the Almoravid period were reused by Christians, with examples in the reliquary of San Isidoro in León, a
chasuble The chasuble () is the outermost liturgical vestment worn by clergy for the celebration of the Eucharist in Western-tradition Christian churches that use full vestments, primarily in Roman Catholic, Anglican, and Lutheran churches. In the Eastern ...
from Saint-Sernin in
Toulouse Toulouse (, ; ; ) is a city in southern France, the Prefectures in France, prefecture of the Haute-Garonne department and of the Occitania (administrative region), Occitania region. The city is on the banks of the Garonne, River Garonne, from ...
, the Chasuble of San Juan de Ortega in the church of Quintanaortuña (near
Burgos Burgos () is a city in Spain located in the autonomous community of Castile and León. It is the capital and most populous municipality of the province of Burgos. Burgos is situated in the north of the Iberian Peninsula, on the confluence of th ...
), the shroud of San Pedro de Osma, a tunic found in the tomb of Infante Don García (son of
Alfonso VII Alphons (Latinized ''Alphonsus'', ''Adelphonsus'', or ''Adefonsus'') is a male given name recorded from the 8th century ( Alfonso I of Asturias, r. 739–757) in the Christian successor states of the Visigothic Kingdom in the Iberian Peninsula. ...
), and a fragment found at the church of
Thuir Thuir (; Catalan: Tuïr, ) is a commune in the Pyrénées-Orientales department, southern France. Geography Thuir is located southwest of Perpignan, in the canton of Les Aspres and in the arrondissement of Ceret. It is situated in a plain ...
in the eastern
Pyrenees The Pyrenees are a mountain range straddling the border of France and Spain. They extend nearly from their union with the Cantabrian Mountains to Cap de Creus on the Mediterranean coast, reaching a maximum elevation of at the peak of Aneto. ...
. The Shroud of San Pedro de Osma is notable for its inscription stating "this was made in
Baghdad Baghdad ( or ; , ) is the capital and List of largest cities of Iraq, largest city of Iraq, located along the Tigris in the central part of the country. With a population exceeding 7 million, it ranks among the List of largest cities in the A ...
", suggesting that it was imported. As a result of the inscription, many of these textiles are known in scholarship as the "Baghdad group", representing a stylistically coherent and artistically rich group of silken textiles seemingly dating to reign of
Ali ibn Yusuf Ali ibn Yusuf (also known as "Ali Ben Youssef") () (c. 1084 – 28 January 1143) was the 5th Almoravid emir. He reigned from 1106 to 1143. Early life Ali ibn Yusuf was born in 1084–1085 (477 AH) in Ceuta. He was the son of Yusuf ibn Tashf ...
or the first half of the 12th century. More recent scholarship has suggested that the shroud was instead produced locally in centres such as Almeria, but that they were copied or based on eastern imports. It is even possible that the inscription was knowingly falsified in order to exaggerate its value to potential sellers. Al-Saqati of
Málaga Málaga (; ) is a Municipalities in Spain, municipality of Spain, capital of the Province of Málaga, in the Autonomous communities of Spain, autonomous community of Andalusia. With a population of 591,637 in 2024, it is the second-most populo ...
, a 12th-century writer and market inspector, wrote that there were regulations designed to prohibit the practice of making such false inscriptions.


Las Navas de Tolosa Banner

One of the best-known textiles traditionally attributed to the Almohads is the "Las Navas de Tolosa Banner", so-called because it was once thought to be a spoil won by
Alfonso VIII Alfonso VIII (11 November 11555 October 1214), called the Noble (El Noble) or the one of Las Navas (el de las Navas), was King of Castile from 1158 to his death and King of Toledo. After having suffered a great defeat with his own army at Alarc ...
at the
Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa The Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, known in Islamic history as the Battle of Al-Uqab (), took place on 16 July 1212 and was an important turning point in the ''Reconquista'' and the Spain in the Middle Ages, medieval history of Spain. The Christian ...
in 1212. More recent studies have proposed that it was actually a spoil won some years later by Ferdinand III. The banner was then donated to the Monastery of Santa Maria la Real de Huelgas in
Burgos Burgos () is a city in Spain located in the autonomous community of Castile and León. It is the capital and most populous municipality of the province of Burgos. Burgos is situated in the north of the Iberian Peninsula, on the confluence of th ...
, where it remains today. The banner is richly designed and features blue Arabic inscriptions and white decorative patterns on a red background. The central motif features an eight-pointed star framed by a circle inside a larger square, with smaller motifs filling the bands of the frame and the corner spaces. This central design is surrounded on four sides by Arabic inscriptions in Naskhi script featuring Qur'anic verses ( ''Surah'' 61: 10–12), and another horizontal inscription in the banner's upper part which praises God and
Muhammad Muhammad (8 June 632 CE) was an Arab religious and political leader and the founder of Islam. Muhammad in Islam, According to Islam, he was a prophet who was divinely inspired to preach and confirm the tawhid, monotheistic teachings of A ...
. Recent studies have argued that the banner is of 14th century origin rather than of Almohad origin, due to its similarities with captured Marinid banners kept at the
Cathedral of Toledo The Primatial Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (), is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Toledo, Spain. It is the seat of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Toledo. Since 1088, it holds the honorific title of Primatial, granted by ...
and to its similarities with Nasrid motifs. It remains uncertain whether it was crafted either in Fez under the Marinids or in Granada under the Nasrids.See also: * * *


Iconography


Almoravid iconography

Almoravid textiles were renowned for their precise technique and figural style, influenced by Iraqi and Persian silks. Almoravid design features large rondels “with ribbons of pearling…disposed in rows and enclosing pairs of animals,” often mythological, such as
griffins The griffin, griffon, or gryphon (; Classical Latin: ''gryps'' or ''grypus''; Late and Medieval Latin: ''gryphes'', ''grypho'' etc.; Old French: ''griffon'') is a -4; we might wonder whether there's a point at which it's appropriate to talk ...
and
harpies In Greek and Roman mythology, a harpy (plural harpies, , ; ) is a half-human and half-bird mythical creature, often believed to be a personification of storm winds. They feature in Homeric poems. Descriptions Harpies were generally depicted ...
, or grand, such as
peacocks Peafowl is a common name for two bird species of the genus '' Pavo'' and one species of the closely related genus ''Afropavo'' within the tribe Pavonini of the family Phasianidae (the pheasants and their allies). Male peafowl are referred to ...
and
eagles Eagle is the common name for the golden eagle, bald eagle, and other birds of prey in the family of the Accipitridae. Eagles belong to several groups of Genus, genera, some of which are closely related. True eagles comprise the genus ''Aquila ( ...
. These animals either face each other in confrontation or are addorsed (back-to-back). Sometimes, rondels featured human figures, like in the Chasuble of Saint Thomas Becket. The decorative theme of having a regular grid of roundels containing images of animals and figures, with more abstract motifs filling the spaces in between, has origins traced as far back as Persian
Sasanian The Sasanian Empire (), officially Eranshahr ( , "Empire of the Iranians"), was an Iranian empire that was founded and ruled by the House of Sasan from 224 to 651. Enduring for over four centuries, the length of the Sasanian dynasty's reign ...
textiles. In subsequent periods, starting with the Almohads, these roundels with figurative imagery are progressively replaced with more abstract roundels, while epigraphic decoration becomes more prominent than before. The "Baghad group" textiles (also discussed above) typically employ a "dull orange-red" colour for decorative motifs, occasionally highlighted with gold, or green and blue colours against an "ivory" background. Some of these pieces are characterized by the appearance of
Kufic The Kufic script () is a style of Arabic script, that gained prominence early on as a preferred script for Quran transcription and architectural decoration, and it has since become a reference and an archetype for a number of other Arabic scripts ...
or "Hispano-Kufic" woven inscriptions, with letters sometimes ending in ornamental vegetal flourishes. The Chasuble of San Juan de Ortega is one such example, made of silk and gold thread and dating to the first half of the 12th century. Aside from its inscription, the Shroud of San Pedro de Osma is also decorated with images of two lions and
harpies In Greek and Roman mythology, a harpy (plural harpies, , ; ) is a half-human and half-bird mythical creature, often believed to be a personification of storm winds. They feature in Homeric poems. Descriptions Harpies were generally depicted ...
inside
roundels A roundel is a circular disc used as a symbol. The term is used in heraldry, but also commonly used to refer to a type of national insignia used on military aircraft, generally circular in shape and usually comprising concentric rings of differ ...
that are ringed by images of small men holding
griffins The griffin, griffon, or gryphon (; Classical Latin: ''gryps'' or ''grypus''; Late and Medieval Latin: ''gryphes'', ''grypho'' etc.; Old French: ''griffon'') is a -4; we might wonder whether there's a point at which it's appropriate to talk ...
, repeating across the whole fabric. The chasuble from Saint-Sernin is likewise decorated with figural images, in this case a pair of
peacocks Peafowl is a common name for two bird species of the genus '' Pavo'' and one species of the closely related genus ''Afropavo'' within the tribe Pavonini of the family Phasianidae (the pheasants and their allies). Male peafowl are referred to ...
repeating in horizontal bands, with vegetal stems separating each pair and small kufic inscriptions running along the bottom.


Almohad iconography

Almohad textiles deviated greatly from Almoravid textiles. The rigorous production found during Almoravid rein slowed as the Almohads took power and halted production in the Dar al-Tirāz. Although textiles continued to be produced in private workshops and Almohad rulers eventually became less strict about luxury textiles, the number of textiles produced during Almohad rule was much fewer. Widespread warfare throughout the region as the Almohads took power also negatively impacted production. Design under Almohad rule is noticeably simpler. Rather than depicting figures in large rondels, Almohad textiles were defined by use of geometric patterns, vegetative imagery, and
Kufic The Kufic script () is a style of Arabic script, that gained prominence early on as a preferred script for Quran transcription and architectural decoration, and it has since become a reference and an archetype for a number of other Arabic scripts ...
or cursive script. Almohad textiles were “
aniconic Aniconism is the cultural absence of artistic representations (''icons'') of the natural and supernatural worlds, or it is the absence of representations of certain figures in religions. The prohibition of material representations may only extend ...
, glorifying the word of God as
heir Inheritance is the practice of receiving private property, titles, debts, entitlements, privileges, rights, and obligations upon the death of an individual. The rules of inheritance differ among societies and have changed over time. Offi ...
primary aim." Recent scholars have pointed out that the
Fatimid The Fatimid Caliphate (; ), also known as the Fatimid Empire, was a caliphate extant from the tenth to the twelfth centuries CE under the rule of the Fatimid dynasty, Fatimids, an Isma'ili Shi'a dynasty. Spanning a large area of North Africa ...
,
Syrian Syrians () are the majority inhabitants of Syria, indigenous to the Levant, most of whom have Arabic, especially its Levantine and Mesopotamian dialects, as a mother tongue. The cultural and linguistic heritage of the Syrian people is a blend ...
, and
Iranian Iranian () may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to Iran ** Iranian diaspora, Iranians living outside Iran ** Iranian architecture, architecture of Iran and parts of the rest of West Asia ** Iranian cuisine, cooking traditions and practic ...
textiles that Almoravid textiles took inspiration from also had great shifts in style, suggesting that Andalusian tirāz adjusted both to Almohad aniconism and to “new models from Central Asia." Some textiles implement techniques that make the textile design look “flat…as much for the background as for the ornamentation,” often understating Andalusia’s established silk so it is only used for binding. Only designs made with gold thread stand out. The overall effect is one of understatement, even with luxurious materials. Densely packed design such as this has been argued to demonstrate that much of Almohad design “came from the East, and does not respond to a strictly local phenomenon.”


See also

*
Armazine Armazine was a type of corded silk used for women's gowns and men's waistcoats, first known from the Elizabethan era. It was also called armoisine, armozine and ermozine. The European armazine was a plain black color. Colorful East Indian armazin ...
*
Barragan (cloth) () was a Spanish term for various types of fabrics or fabric products in the Middle Ages. was derived from the Arabic term , that signified heavy cotton and woolen materials. Initially meaning a heavy cloth, by the 15th century it had come to me ...


References


Citations


Bibliography

* * {{Cite book , last= , first= , title=Maroc médiéval: Un empire de l'Afrique à l'Espagne , publisher=Louvre éditions , year=2014 , isbn=978-2350314907 , editor-last=Lintz , editor-first=Yannick , location=Paris , pages= , language=fr , editor-last2=Déléry , editor-first2=Claire , editor-last3=Tuil Leonetti , editor-first3=Bulle


External links


A woven brocade fragment
from Almeriá, Spain, early 12th century Wikipedia Student Program Textiles Almoravid Empire Almohad Caliphate