Al-A'la Plateau
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The al-A'la plateau, or Jabal al-A'la () is a plateau in central
Syria Syria, officially the Syrian Arab Republic, is a country in West Asia located in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Levant. It borders the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Turkey to Syria–Turkey border, the north, Iraq to Iraq–Syria border, t ...
, which rises east of the city of
Hama Hama ( ', ) is a city on the banks of the Orontes River in west-central Syria. It is located north of Damascus and north of Homs. It is the provincial capital of the Hama Governorate. With a population of 996,000 (2023 census), Hama is one o ...
, on the western fringes of the Syrian steppe. The plateau contains numerous villages with
Byzantine The Byzantine Empire, also known as the Eastern Roman Empire, was the continuation of the Roman Empire centred on Constantinople during late antiquity and the Middle Ages. Having survived the events that caused the fall of the Western Roman E ...
-era inscriptions, found in the remains of mostly 6th-century homes, towers and churches. In the late 18th century, the region became a haven and area of settlement for the
Mawali ''Mawlā'' (, plural ''mawālī'' ), is a polysemous Arabic word, whose meaning varied in different periods and contexts.A.J. Wensinck, Encyclopedia of Islam 2nd ed, Brill. "Mawlā", vol. 6, p. 874. Before the Islamic prophet Muhammad, the te ...
and other
Bedouin The Bedouin, Beduin, or Bedu ( ; , singular ) are pastorally nomadic Arab tribes who have historically inhabited the desert regions in the Arabian Peninsula, North Africa, the Levant, and Mesopotamia (Iraq). The Bedouin originated in the Sy ...
tribes.
Alawite Alawites () are an Arabs, Arab ethnoreligious group who live primarily in the Levant region in West Asia and follow Alawism, a sect of Islam that splintered from early Shia as a ''ghulat'' branch during the ninth century. Alawites venerate A ...
s began to settle in the area as well in the early 20th century.


Geography

The al-A'la is a plateau which rises close to the city of
Hama Hama ( ', ) is a city on the banks of the Orontes River in west-central Syria. It is located north of Damascus and north of Homs. It is the provincial capital of the Hama Governorate. With a population of 996,000 (2023 census), Hama is one o ...
's eastern outskirts, and west of
Salamiyah file:Hama qalat shmemis salamiyyah syria 1995.jpg, A full view of Shmemis (spring 1995) Salamiyah (; also transliterated ''Salamiyya'', ''Salamieh'' or ''Salamya'') is a city in central Syria, administratively part of the Hama Governorate. It is ...
, and on the western margin of the Syrian steppe. It is roughly triangular in shape, measuring about in breadth and in length. It is the southernmost (and geographically detached) area of the
basalt Basalt (; ) is an aphanite, aphanitic (fine-grained) extrusive igneous rock formed from the rapid cooling of low-viscosity lava rich in magnesium and iron (mafic lava) exposed at or very near the planetary surface, surface of a terrestrial ...
ic rolling hill country which continues northward around to Jabal al-Hass. The plateau is generally steep on all sides though its east side gently slopes into the desert. The plateau is generally flat and arable.


Archaeology

Several villages dot the plateau, most no further than apart and nearly all built on ancient sites. Due to the villages' reconstructions, which reused the ancient basaltic building materials of their ruins, few standing remains are extant. Nevertheless, several reused and
ancient Greek Ancient Greek (, ; ) includes the forms of the Greek language used in ancient Greece and the classical antiquity, ancient world from around 1500 BC to 300 BC. It is often roughly divided into the following periods: Mycenaean Greek (), Greek ...
-inscribed basaltic lintels indicate an extensive Byzantine-era occupation. There are at least fifty Byzantine inscriptions, most dating to the reign of Emperor
Justinian Justinian I (, ; 48214 November 565), also known as Justinian the Great, was Roman emperor from 527 to 565. His reign was marked by the ambitious but only partly realized ''renovatio imperii'', or "restoration of the Empire". This ambition was ...
(), though about twenty date to the forty years which followed his death. Few are dated before the 6th century and the latest dates to 605 CE. Most of the villages contained a defensive tower, probably to keep watch due to the plateau's high vulnerability to
Bedouin The Bedouin, Beduin, or Bedu ( ; , singular ) are pastorally nomadic Arab tribes who have historically inhabited the desert regions in the Arabian Peninsula, North Africa, the Levant, and Mesopotamia (Iraq). The Bedouin originated in the Sy ...
raids from the desert. At least one, Umm Hartein, contained a rectangular
citadel A citadel is the most fortified area of a town or city. It may be a castle, fortress, or fortified center. The term is a diminutive of ''city'', meaning "little city", because it is a smaller part of the city of which it is the defensive core. ...
with towers on each corner. All the villages contained several houses, each characterized by one of two plans. The smaller homes consisted of two floors, the lower reserved for livestock. They faced paved courts containing a well which led to a cistern. The larger homes were similar, but contained more rooms or at least two wings. Many of the villages contained churches, all with
basilica In Ancient Roman architecture, a basilica (Greek Basiliké) was a large public building with multiple functions that was typically built alongside the town's forum. The basilica was in the Latin West equivalent to a stoa in the Greek Eas ...
l plans. There was at least one monastery on the plateau, that of Nawa, which contained a church dating to 598 CE. The largest village, in terms of the area of its ancient site, is
Tuba The tuba (; ) is the largest and lowest-pitched musical instrument in the brass instrument, brass family. As with all brass instruments, the sound is produced by lip vibrationa buzzinto a mouthpiece (brass), mouthpiece. It first appeared in th ...
, situated on al-A'la's north side. It contained a church dating to 582 CE, a tower and several houses. Other villages with Byzantine-era inscriptions include Danin, Qasr al-Mukharram, Msheirfeh, Tell Dahab, Ali Kasun, Zabada, Taybat al-Turki, Halban, al-Anz, Umm Tuweineh, Ruheibeh, Temek, Kunbus, Sabba and Abu al-Qudur.


History

The epigraphic evidence suggests the A'la experienced significant prosperity during the reign of Justinian, which was in line with the general prosperity of his reign in Syria, but also continuing prosperity into the early 7th century, when much of Syria experience stagnation. There was no traceable building activity to
Umayyad The Umayyad Caliphate or Umayyad Empire (, ; ) was the second caliphate established after the death of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and was ruled by the Umayyad dynasty. Uthman ibn Affan, the third of the Rashidun caliphs, was also a membe ...
or
Abbasid The Abbasid Caliphate or Abbasid Empire (; ) was the third caliphate to succeed the prophets and messengers in Islam, Islamic prophet Muhammad. It was founded by a dynasty descended from Muhammad's uncle, Abbas ibn Abd al-Muttalib (566–653 C ...
rule, collectively the 'early Muslim period' (mid-7th–11th centuries), though it is possible the villages' dwellings remained occupied during this period. In the late 18th century, the A'la became one of the two main havens for the
Mawali ''Mawlā'' (, plural ''mawālī'' ), is a polysemous Arabic word, whose meaning varied in different periods and contexts.A.J. Wensinck, Encyclopedia of Islam 2nd ed, Brill. "Mawlā", vol. 6, p. 874. Before the Islamic prophet Muhammad, the te ...
tribe, the other region being the Jabal Zawiya. The tribe, which had dominated the Syrian steppe since the beginning of Ottoman rule (1517–1918), had been driven there by the arrival of stronger
Bedouin The Bedouin, Beduin, or Bedu ( ; , singular ) are pastorally nomadic Arab tribes who have historically inhabited the desert regions in the Arabian Peninsula, North Africa, the Levant, and Mesopotamia (Iraq). The Bedouin originated in the Sy ...
tribes, namely the Hasana. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Mawali and
Bani Khalid Bani Khalid () is an Arab tribal confederation mainly inhabiting the Arabian Peninsula. The tribe ruled southern Iraq, Kuwait, and Eastern Arabia ( al-Hasa and al-Qatif) from the 15th century to the 18th century, and again under the protectio ...
tribes had owned many of the A'la's villages and sold them to the urban notable families of
Hama Hama ( ', ) is a city on the banks of the Orontes River in west-central Syria. It is located north of Damascus and north of Homs. It is the provincial capital of the Hama Governorate. With a population of 996,000 (2023 census), Hama is one o ...
, particularly the Kaylani, Barazi and al-Azm. The inhabitants of the villages became tenant farmers and most were
Sunni Muslim Sunni Islam is the largest branch of Islam and the largest religious denomination in the world. It holds that Muhammad did not appoint any successor and that his closest companion Abu Bakr () rightfully succeeded him as the caliph of the Musli ...
Arabs, but also
Alawite Alawites () are an Arabs, Arab ethnoreligious group who live primarily in the Levant region in West Asia and follow Alawism, a sect of Islam that splintered from early Shia as a ''ghulat'' branch during the ninth century. Alawites venerate A ...
s who had settled there in the 1920s and 1930s, during French Mandatory rule. Archaeological explorations of the A'la were conducted by
Max von Oppenheim Baron Max von Oppenheim (15 July 1860 – 17 November 1946) was a German people, German lawyer, diplomat, ancient historian, Panislamism, pan-Islamist and archaeologist. He was a member of the Oppenheim family, Oppenheim banking dynasty. Aban ...
in 1899 and
Princeton University Princeton University is a private university, private Ivy League research university in Princeton, New Jersey, United States. Founded in 1746 in Elizabeth, New Jersey, Elizabeth as the College of New Jersey, Princeton is the List of Colonial ...
in 1904–1905.


References


Bibliography

* * * *{{cite book , last1=Prentice , first1=William Kelly , title=Syria: Publications of the Princeton University Archaeological Expeditions to Syria in 1904-5 and 1909 , date=1922 , publisher=E. J. Brill , location=Leiden , url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hpdtAAAAMAAJ Archaeological sites in Hama Governorate Mountains of Hama Governorate Byzantine sites in Asia