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Old City or Inner City () is the historical core of
Baku Baku (, ; ) is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Azerbaijan, largest city of Azerbaijan, as well as the largest city on the Caspian Sea and in the Caucasus region. Baku is below sea level, which makes it the List of capital ci ...
, the capital of
Azerbaijan Azerbaijan, officially the Republic of Azerbaijan, is a Boundaries between the continents, transcontinental and landlocked country at the boundary of West Asia and Eastern Europe. It is a part of the South Caucasus region and is bounded by ...
. The Old City is the most ancient part of Baku, which is surrounded by walls. In 2007, the Old City had a population of about 3,000 people. In December 2000, the Old City of Baku, including the
Palace of the Shirvanshahs The Palace of the Shirvanshahs (, ) is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". It is located in the Inner City of Baku, Azerbaijan and, together with the Maiden ...
and Maiden Tower, became the first location in
Azerbaijan Azerbaijan, officially the Republic of Azerbaijan, is a Boundaries between the continents, transcontinental and landlocked country at the boundary of West Asia and Eastern Europe. It is a part of the South Caucasus region and is bounded by ...
to be classified as a
UNESCO The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO ) is a List of specialized agencies of the United Nations, specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) with the aim of promoting world peace and International secur ...
World Heritage Site World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
.


History

The Old City, including its Maiden Tower, is widely accepted to date at least to the 12th century, with some researchers contending that construction dates as far back as the 7th century. The question has not been completely settled. During this medieval period of Baku, such monuments as the Synyg Gala Minaret (11th century), the fortress walls and towers (11th–12th centuries), the Maiden Tower, the
Multani Caravanserai The Multani Caravanserai is a caravanserai located in Baku, Azerbaijan. It was established in the 14th century and is located in the Icherisheher old town, opposite the Bukhara Caravanserai. The caravanserai was built to house merchants from ...
and Hajji Gayyib bathhouse (15th century), the
Palace of the Shirvanshahs The Palace of the Shirvanshahs (, ) is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". It is located in the Inner City of Baku, Azerbaijan and, together with the Maiden ...
(15th–16th centuries), the Bukhara Caravanserai and Gasimbey bathhouse (16th century) were built. In 1806, when Baku was occupied by the
Russian Empire The Russian Empire was an empire that spanned most of northern Eurasia from its establishment in November 1721 until the proclamation of the Russian Republic in September 1917. At its height in the late 19th century, it covered about , roughl ...
during the
Russo-Persian War (1804–13) The Russo-Persian Wars ( ), or the Russo-Iranian Wars ( ), began in 1651 and continued intermittently until 1828. They consisted of five conflicts in total, each rooted in both sides' disputed governance of territories and countries in the Cauc ...
, there were 500 households and 707 shops, and a population of 7,000 in the Old City (then the only neighbourhood of Baku) who were almost all ethnic Tats. Between 1807 and 1811, the city walls were repaired and the fortifications extended. The city had two gates: the Salyan Gates and the Shemakha Gates. The city was protected by dozens of cannons set on the walls. The port was re-opened for trade, and in 1809 a customs office was established. It was during this period that Baku started to extend beyond the city walls, and new neighbourhoods emerged. Thus the terms Inner City () and Outer City () came into use. Referring to the early Russian rule, Bakuvian actor
Huseyngulu Sarabski Huseyngulu Sarabski (), born Hüseynqulu Malik oğlu Rzayev (20 March 1879 – 16 February 1945), was an Azerbaijani opera singer (tenor), composer, playwright, stage actor, theatre director, and musician (tar). Early life Sarabski was born to p ...
wrote in his memoirs: With the arrival of Russians, the traditional architectural look of the Old City changed. Many European buildings were constructed during the 19th century and early 20th century, using styles such as
Baroque The Baroque ( , , ) is a Western Style (visual arts), style of Baroque architecture, architecture, Baroque music, music, Baroque dance, dance, Baroque painting, painting, Baroque sculpture, sculpture, poetry, and other arts that flourished from ...
and Gothic. In 1865, a part of the city walls overlooking the sea was demolished, and the stones were sold and used in the building of the Outer city. The money obtained from this sale (44,000 rubles) went into the construction of the
Baku Boulevard Baku Boulevard (, also known as National Park) is a promenade established in 1909 which runs parallel to Baku's seafront. Its history goes back more than 100 years, to a time when Baku oil barons built their mansions along the Caspian Sea, Caspi ...
. In 1867, the first fountains of Baku appeared in the Boulevard. In this period, two more gates were opened, one of them being famous Taghiyev Gate (1877). The opening of new gates and passes continued well into the Soviet period. The church mentioned by Huseyngulu Sarabski was the Armenian Church of the Holy Virgin, built under Persian rule between 1797 and 1799 in the shadow of the Maiden Tower, defunct since 1984 and demolished in 1992.


Neighbourhoods

The Old City was divided into several quarters, which also served as social divisions. Sometimes, the divisions of the Old City were named after their mosque: for example, Juma Mosque quarter, Shal Mosque quarter, Mahammadyar Mosque quarter, etc.


List of main neighborhoods

* Seyyids, a quarter of clergymen * Aghshalvarlilar, a quarter of city nobles, literally "those with white pants" * Bozbashyemeyenler, a quarter of "those who do not eat meat" * Gemichiler, a quarter of shipbuilders and sailors * Hamamchilar, a quarter of public bath workers * Arabachilar, a quarter of wagoners and cart-drivers * Noyutchuler, a quarter of oil workers * Juhud Zeynallilar, a
Jewish Jews (, , ), or the Jewish people, are an ethnoreligious group and nation, originating from the Israelites of History of ancient Israel and Judah, ancient Israel and Judah. They also traditionally adhere to Judaism. Jewish ethnicity, rel ...
quarter * Lezgiler, a quarter of
Dagestan Dagestan ( ; ; ), officially the Republic of Dagestan, is a republic of Russia situated in the North Caucasus of Eastern Europe, along the Caspian Sea. It is located north of the Greater Caucasus, and is a part of the North Caucasian Fede ...
i armourers and blacksmiths * Gilaklar, a quarter of merchants from
Gilan Gilan Province () is one of the 31 provinces of Iran, in the northwest of the country and southwest of the Caspian Sea. Its capital is the city of Rasht. The province lies along the Caspian Sea, in Iran's Region 3, west of the province of ...


Underground infrastructure

In 2008, an ancient underpass, dated back to the 19th century, was discovered while holding reconstruction at Vahid park. The workers marched about along the tunnel, but then stopped, having met with water and silt masses. Judging by the photographs taken in the cave, the tunnel is built very thoroughly, the walls, ceiling and floor of the tunnel are paved with white sawn stone. The workers also found a handful of coins of the
Soviet period The history of the Soviet Union (USSR) (1922–91) began with the ideals of the Russian Bolshevik Revolution and ended in dissolution amidst economic collapse and political disintegration. Established in 1922 following the Russian Civil War, ...
, suggesting that there was somebody in the tunnel before them, but the unknown went down at least 20 years ago. According to scholar Vitaly Antonov, in the late 18th century Baku was the Caucasian center of the revolutionary movement, and the found underpass was dug to save the governor in case of mass riots in the city. Another version is that this passage is one of the several, leading to the ancient Sabayil Castle, flooded by the
Caspian Sea The Caspian Sea is the world's largest inland body of water, described as the List of lakes by area, world's largest lake and usually referred to as a full-fledged sea. An endorheic basin, it lies between Europe and Asia: east of the Caucasus, ...
. There are several tunnels leading from the Palace of Shirvanshahs and Synykh Gala, situated in Icheri Shekher, to the sea. Synykh Gala was the mosque in the 15th century, in the times of the
Shah Ismail Ismail I (; 17 July 1487 – 23 May 1524) was the founder and first shah of Safavid Iran, ruling from 1501 until his death in 1524. His reign is one of the most vital in the history of Iran, and the Safavid period is often considered the beginn ...
Khatai, and was destroyed by the troops of Peter I. That is, the discovered passage is part of the underground network connecting the city of Sabayil to the land.


Education

The first known
madrasa Madrasa (, also , ; Arabic: مدرسة , ), sometimes Romanization of Arabic, romanized as madrasah or madrassa, is the Arabic word for any Educational institution, type of educational institution, secular or religious (of any religion), whet ...
in the Old City was opened in the 12th century, and amongst its popular lectors was Baba Kuhi Bakuvi. Four hundred years later, another distinguished scholar named
Seyid Yahya Bakuvi Yahya al-Shirvani al-Bakubi (also spelled Bakuvi) was a 15th-century Sufi mystic from Shamakhi, who established the Khalwati order. Biography Yahya was born in Shamakhi in the region of Shirvan, then ruled by the Shirvanshahs. "Khalwati" is der ...
(born in 1403) founded a Darulfunun (the House of Arts and Sciences, a prototype of a modern university) at the
Palace of the Shirvanshahs The Palace of the Shirvanshahs (, ) is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". It is located in the Inner City of Baku, Azerbaijan and, together with the Maiden ...
. But with the fall of the Shirvanshahs' state, the education in Baku gradually diminished. By 1806 there remained only twelve mollakhanas (primary and secondary schools, kept by mosques) in the Old City, and only three of them survived into the 20th century. Later, all such schools were closed and replaced with modern kindergartens and state secular schools.


World Heritage Site

In December 2000, the Old City of Baku with the
Palace of the Shirvanshahs The Palace of the Shirvanshahs (, ) is a 15th-century palace built by the Shirvanshahs and described by UNESCO as "one of the pearls of Azerbaijan's architecture". It is located in the Inner City of Baku, Azerbaijan and, together with the Maiden ...
and Maiden Tower became the first location in
Azerbaijan Azerbaijan, officially the Republic of Azerbaijan, is a Boundaries between the continents, transcontinental and landlocked country at the boundary of West Asia and Eastern Europe. It is a part of the South Caucasus region and is bounded by ...
classified as a
World Heritage Site World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
by
UNESCO The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO ) is a List of specialized agencies of the United Nations, specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) with the aim of promoting world peace and International secur ...
. Three years later, in 2003, UNESCO placed the Old City on the
List of World Heritage in Danger The List of World Heritage in Danger is compiled by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) through the World Heritage Committee according to Article 11.4 of the World Heritage Convention,Full title: ''Conv ...
, citing damage from a November 2000 earthquake, poor conservation, and "dubious" restoration efforts. In 2009, the World Heritage Committee praised Azerbaijan for its efforts to preserve the walled city of Baku and removed it from the endangered list. (''See''
List of World Heritage Sites in Azerbaijan The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designates World Heritage Sites of outstanding universal value to cultural or natural heritage which have been nominated by countries which are signatories to the UNES ...
)


Old City in films

Some scenes of famous Azerbaijani and USSR movies such as ''Diamond Hand'', ''Amphibian Man'', ''Aybolit-66'', ''Teheran-43'', ''Do Not Be Afraid, I'm with You'', which are famous around the world were shot in Old City. The well-known scene of "In Foreign Country – Istanbul" of "Brilliant Hand" was shot in Old City through the decision of Leonid Gayday. The old streets of Old City, Shirvanshahs' Palace, minarets of mosques and fortress walls appear in the movie. A monument of Yuri Nikulin was erected in Icherisheher, where the movie was shooting. Other film scenes that were shot in the Old City include: * '' Arshin Mal Alan'' (1945), film directors: R.Tahmasib and N.Leshenko * ''
If Not That One, Then This One ''If Not That One, Then This One'' (; ), also known as ''Mashadi Ibad'' (; ) is a 1910 Azerbaijan, Azerbaijani operetta in four acts written by composer Uzeyir Hajibeyov. The comedy reflects social and everyday life relations in October Revolutio ...
'' (1956), film director: Huseyn Seyidzadeh * ''
A Telephone Girl A, or a, is the first letter and the first vowel letter of the Latin alphabet, used in the modern English alphabet, and others worldwide. Its name in English is '' a'' (pronounced ), plural ''aes''. It is similar in shape to the Ancient G ...
'' (1962), film director: Hasan Seyidbeyli * '' Where is Ahmad'' (1963), film director: Adil Isgenderov * '' Arshin Mal Alan'' (1965), film director: Tofig Taghizadeh * '' The last night of Childhood'' (1968), film director: Arif Babayev * '' In a southern city'' (1969), film director:
Eldar Guliyev Eldar Allahyar oghlu Guliyev (; born July 26, 1951) is an Azerbaijan, Azerbaijani politician. He became a Member of the Parliament of Azerbaijan in 2000. Early life and career He was born in Baku. In 1968, he finished school at No. 187 in Baku ...
* '' Shared bread'' (1969), film director: Shamil Mahmudbeyov * '' The Day Passed'' (1971), film director: Arif Babayev * '' The most important interview'' (1971), film director: Eldar Guliyev * '' Amphibian Man'' (1961), film director: V.Chebotaryov and G.Kazanski (Mosfilm) * ''
Aybolit-66 ''Aybolit-66'' () is a 1967 Soviet family comedy film directed by Rolan Bykov. It is based on a Aybolit, story by Kornei Chukovsky. The film features Oleg Yefremov as the good ''Aibolit'' and Rolan Bykov as the evil ''Barmalei''. Plot In Africa, a ...
'' (1961), film director: R. Bikov (Mosfilm) * ''
The Diamond Arm ''The Diamond Arm'' ( ''Brilliantovaya ruka'') is a Soviet crime comedy film made by Mosfilm and first released in 1969. The film was directed by director Leonid Gaidai and starred several famous Soviet actors, including Yuri Nikulin, Andrei Mi ...
'' (1968), film director: L. Gayday (Mosfilm) * '' Teheran-43'' (1981), film director: A. Alov vÉ™ V. Kaumov (Mosfilm)


Documentary

* ''Old City'' (film, 1964), film director: Alibala Alakberov * ''Old City'' (film, 1978), film director: Nijat Bakirzadeh * ''A Walk in the Old City'' (2003), film director: Javid Imamverdiyev


Character and legacy

For a long period of time, an explicit symbol of the Old City was a
mulberry tree ''Morus'', a genus of flowering plants in the family Moraceae, consists of 19 species of deciduous trees commonly known as mulberries, growing wild and under cultivation in many temperate world regions. Generally, the genus has 64 subordinate ...
located behind the Djuma Mosque. It was believed that the tree was several hundred years old. The tree made its way into many sayings and songs popular in the Old City and became a local landmark. The place where that tree was located was referred to as Mulberry Tree Square. However, in the 1970s, the mulberry tree was cut down, because of the nearby construction works. Another popular landmark of the Old City is the local bookstore that sells mostly second-hand, but also new books. Situated amongst the Bukhara and the Multani Caravanserais, the Maiden Tower, and Hajinski's Palace (otherwise known as
Charles de Gaulle Charles André Joseph Marie de Gaulle (22 November 18909 November 1970) was a French general and statesman who led the Free France, Free French Forces against Nazi Germany in World War II and chaired the Provisional Government of the French Re ...
House because he stayed there during
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
), it is a popular destination of Bakuvian students and bibliophiles, mostly because of its low prices. The Old City of Baku is depicted on the
obverse The obverse and reverse are the two flat faces of coins and some other two-sided objects, including paper money, flags, seals, medals, drawings, old master prints and other works of art, and printed fabrics. In this usage, ''obverse'' ...
of the Azerbaijani 10 manat banknote issued since 2006.


Gallery

File:House_on_Asaf_Zaynalli_Street_in_Baku.jpg File:Baku_Shirvan_Shahlar.JPG File:İçərişəhərdəki_Yeraltı_hamamın_Xan_bağından_görünüşü.jpg File:Houses_in_old_Baku.jpg File:Bəylər_məscidinin_qapı_portalı.jpg File:Torre_de_la_Doncella,_Baku,_Azerbaiyán,_2016-09-26,_DD_212-214_HDR.jpg File:Bath_Haji_Habib_IMG_3209.jpg File:Şirvanşahlar_sarayının_taxt_zalı_2.JPG File:Palacio_de_los_Shirvanshah,_Baku,_Azerbaiyán,_2016-09-28,_DD_27.jpg File:Azerbaigian-baku3.jpg File:Yaşayış_evi,_Qüllə_küçəsi,_8.10.jpg File:Old_houses_in_Ichery_Sheher.jpg File:Ta%C4%9Fl%C4%B1_ibad%C9%99tgah_%C4%B0%C3%A7%C9%99ri%C5%9F%C9%99h%C9%99r.jpg File:Palacio_de_los_Shirvanshah,_Baku,_Azerbaiyán,_2016-09-28,_DD_26.jpg File:The_entrance_to_the_old_house._17-18_century,_Baku,_Azerbaijan_IMG_7063.jpg File:Baku_BoyukGalaStreet_004_1101.jpg File:Garden_with_Vahid%27s_monument_in_Ichery_Sheher.jpg File:A view to new city.jpg File:Qəni_Məmmədovun_evinin_fasad_detalı,_2020.jpg File:Shop in the Icheri Sheher.jpg, Azerbaijani Carpets File:Bakı_qalasının_qapısı_üzərində_kitabə.jpg File:Fuente en Baku, Azerbaiyán, 2016-09-26, DD 227-229 HDR.jpg File:Old and new Baku.JPG File:Baku BoyukGalaStreet42 004 2206.jpg


Notable residents

* Vagif Mustafazadeh, jazz pianist and composer * Arif Babayev, film director * Elariz MammadoÄŸlu, is an Azerbaijani singer


References


External links

*
UNESCO World Heritage site: Walled City of Baku with the Palace of the Shirvanshahs and the Maiden Tower

Walled City of Baku with the Shirvanshah's Palace and Maiden Tower
UNESCO collection on Google Arts and Culture {{Authority control Medieval history of Azerbaijan Populated places established in the 12th century World Heritage Sites in Azerbaijan Populated places in Baku Tourist attractions in Baku History of Baku Castles and fortresses in Azerbaijan
Baku Baku (, ; ) is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Azerbaijan, largest city of Azerbaijan, as well as the largest city on the Caspian Sea and in the Caucasus region. Baku is below sea level, which makes it the List of capital ci ...
Icherisheher