áo Giao Lĩnh
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The (; ), referred to as the () in Literary Chinese texts. Folk often call it () or , referred to as , was a traditional
robe A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word ''robe'' derives from Middle English ''robe'' ("garment"), borrowed from Old French ''robe'' ("booty, spoil ...
worn by
Vietnamese Vietnamese may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to Vietnam, a country in Southeast Asia * Vietnamese people, or Kinh people, a Southeast Asian ethnic group native to Vietnam ** Overseas Vietnamese, Vietnamese people living outside Vietna ...
before the 19th century. It was influenced from
Han Chinese clothing ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
and was typically worn by the royalty, the aristocracy, the nobility, and the commoners. During the
Nguyễn dynasty The Nguyễn dynasty (, chữ Nôm: 茹阮, chữ Hán: 朝阮) was the last List of Vietnamese dynasties, Vietnamese dynasty, preceded by the Nguyễn lords and ruling unified Vietnam independently from 1802 until French protectorate in 1883 ...
, the was commonly worn and the áo giao lĩnh was only worn in formal occasions.


Construction and design

The was influenced from
Han Chinese clothing ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
. It is a robe with a wrap collar closing on the right side. The wrap collar closing on the right side is known as ' () in China; garments with this form of wrap collar originated in China and started to be worn at least since the
Shang dynasty The Shang dynasty (), also known as the Yin dynasty (), was a Chinese royal dynasty that ruled in the Yellow River valley during the second millennium BC, traditionally succeeding the Xia dynasty and followed by the Western Zhou d ...
(c. 1600 BC– c. 1045 BC) before spreading to other countries. Although the design of the was heavily influenced by
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
, it was less constrained in style compared to its Chinese counterpart; and thus, facilitated ease of movements to its wearer. In the 17th and 18th century, the worn by men was an ankle-level gown which could be used as part of a formal attire; it was composed of four-panel of fabric and was loose-fitting and featured a ' collar, loose sleeves, and side slits. It was typically not decorated and black in colour. The women's were also a non-decorated, four panel of fabric, loose fitting gown, similar to those worn by men. Women usually tied a sash around their waist when wearing the ; the came in blue, black, brown colours while the sash was either white in colour or found in the same colour as the .


History


Prior to 18th Century

Prior to the 18th century, nobles wore the , which were adopted from
Han Chinese clothing ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
. During the
Lê dynasty The Lê dynasty, also known in historiography as the Later Lê dynasty (, chữ Hán: 朝後黎, chữ Nôm: 茹後黎), officially Đại Việt (; Chữ Hán: 大越), was the longest-ruling List of Vietnamese dynasties, Vietnamese dynasty, h ...
(1428 – 1789 AD), aristocrats wore the .


18th Century

In the 18th century, the áo ngũ thân (the precursor of the
áo dài (; , ) is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women. translates as shirt' is derived from a Middle Chinese word () meaning "padded ...
) replaced the in order to meet the clothing requirement decreed by the
Nguyen dynasty Nguyễn (阮) (sometimes abbreviated as Ng̃) is the most common surname of the Vietnamese people. Outside of Vietnam, the surname is commonly rendered without diacritics as ''Nguyen''. By some estimates 30 to 39 percent of Vietnamese peopl ...
court during the rule of Lord
Nguyễn Phúc Khoát Nguyễn Phúc Khoát (26 September 1714 – 7 July 1765) was one of the Nguyễn lords who ruled over the southern portion of Vietnam from the 16th-18th centuries. Also known as Chúa Võ (主武) or Võ vương (武王) (roughly ''Martial King'' ...
in 1744 in order to distinguish the clothing worn between the people under his rule from the people ruled by the Trinh Lords. The precursor of the áo dài then became the official clothing for both men and women in the South of Vietnam.


19th Century

In the 19th century, under the rule of Emperor Minh Mang (r. 1820-1841), the clothing in Vietnam was finally standardized throughout the entire country when Emperor Minh Mang decreed that the áo dài had to become the national dress for all the regions under his rule. The áo dài thus became the daily clothing of the Vietnamese.


21st Century

In the 21st century, worn in the 15th century was depicted in a book titled
Weaving a Realm
' published by th
Vietnam Centre
(a non-profit organization which aims to promote the culture and image of Vietnam). The authors of the book mostly consisted of dress makers, artists, stylists, photographers, proof readers and editors (but lacked the presence of historians and archeologists) attempted to reconstruct the ancient clothing worn by Vietnamese through extensive historical research. However, due to the lack of funds, the reconstructed clothing were not made with original materials or techniques.


Gallery

File:Lord Nguyen Phuc Thuan.jpg, Portrait of Prince
Nguyễn Phúc Thuần Nguyễn Phúc Thuần (31 December 1754 – 18 October 1777) was one of the Nguyễn lords who ruled over the southern portion of Vietnam from the 16th-18th centuries. The collapse of the Nguyễn lords intensified during Thuần's reign, many u ...
from the 17th century. He wears a cross-collared robe () which was commonly worn by Vietnamese aristocrats before the 19th century File:Giảng học đồ2.jpeg, (講學圖; Lecture Picture), 18th century, Hanoi Museum of National History. Scholars and students wear cross-collared gowns () – unlike the buttoned File:廣南國夷官.jpg, Official of Nguyễn lords depicted by the Qing dynasty. File:世界人物圖卷 越南人.jpg, Two women and a child in Hanoi around the 1700s. File:KITLV A101 - Man in het Keizerrijk van Annam, KITLV 141286.tiff, Vietnamese man wearing an áo giao lĩnh File:Nguyên 9.jpg, Nguyễn dynasty official wearing an áo giao lĩnh. File:Hai Ba Trung festival elephant.webp, Men during the Hai Bà Trưng festival.


See also

*
Áo dài (; , ) is a modernized Vietnamese Folk costume, national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as Formal wear, formalwear for both men and women. translates as shirt' is derived from a Middle Chines ...
*
Vietnamese clothing Việt Phục, or Vietnamese clothing, is the traditional style of clothing worn in Vietnam by the Vietnamese people. The traditional style has both indigenous and foreign elements due to the diverse cultural exchanges during the history of V ...


References


External links


Đi tìm ngàn năm áo mũ


{{DEFAULTSORT:Ao giao linh Vietnamese clothing Vietnamese words and phrases History of Asian clothing Necklines