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History Of Rock Climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, Pitch (climbing), single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing, big wall (and multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau rock climbing, Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill (climber), John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing, mostly free climbing but with some sections of aid pitons, started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Napes Needle
Great Gable is a mountain in the Lake District, United Kingdom. It is named after its appearance as a pyramid from Wasdale, though it is dome-shaped from most other directions. It is one of the most popular of the Lakeland fells, and there are many different routes to the summit. Great Gable is linked by the high mountain pass, pass of Windy Gap to its smaller sister hill, Green Gable, and by the lower pass of Beck Head to its western neighbour, Kirk Fell. Topography The Western Fells occupy a triangular sector of the Lake District, bordered by the River Cocker to the north east and Wasdale to the south east. Westwards, the hills diminish toward the coastal plain of Cumbria. At the central hub of the high country are Great Gable and its satellites, while two principal ridges fan out on either flank of Ennerdale, Cumbria, Ennerdale, the western fells forming a horseshoe around this valley.Alfred Wainwright: ''A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells, Volume 7 The Western Fells'': ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins (February 3, 1935 – March 14, 2017) was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, Robbins went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent of clean climbing, he, along with Yvon Chouinard, was instrumental in changing the climbing culture of the late 1960s and early 1970s by encouraging the use and preservation of the natural features of the rock. He was also a well-known kayaker. Early life and early climbing career Robbins was born in 1935 and grew up in trailer parks in Southern California. Robbins first began to climb in the early 1950s at the nearby Tahquitz Peak. At age 17 in 1952 he climbed the now famous Open Book route up Tahquitz. In 1957, he was among a trio of climbers who ascended the '' Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome'' at Yosemite National Park. Dawn Wall In 1971, Robbins completed the second ascent, with Don Lauria, of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, wi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Free Climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that are used in aid climbing to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was a transformational moment in the history of rock climbing, including the concept and definition of what determined a first free ascent (or FFA) of a route by a climber. Free climbing can be performed in several rock-climbing formats that vary with the type of climbing protection that is used. Thus, free climbing can be done as traditional climbing (which only uses temporary removable climbing protection), sport climbing (which only uses permanently fixed in-situ climbing protection), and bouldering and free solo climbing (both use no climbing protection whatsoever). Free climbing is sometimes misunderstood as ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Paul Preuss (climber)
Paul Preuss (spelled Preuß in German; pronounced ''Proyce'') (19 August 1886 – 3 October 1913) was an Austrians, Austrian mountaineering, alpinist who achieved recognition for his bold solo ascents and for his advocacy of an ethically "pure" alpinism. He is an important figure in the history of rock climbing. Early years Paul Preuss was born in the mountain town of Altaussee, Austria, on 19 August 1886. His father, Eduard, a Hungary, Hungarian of Jewish descent, taught music; his mother, Caroline Lauchheim, an Alsace, Alsatian, had been a private tutor for a baron. They met when Eduard was engaged to give Caroline's wards music lessons. Based in Vienna, Eduard Preuss and his family (including two older sisters, Sophie and Mina) spent summers in Altaussee, following the migratory patterns of the vacationing Viennese upper class that employed him. As a boy, Preuss would often accompany his father, an amateur botanist, on his rambles throughout the local mountains of Altaussee. N ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing Protection
Rock-climbing equipment varies with the specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes, climbing chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing, and the related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders). Advances in equipment are a key part of the rock climbing history, starting with the climbing rope. Modern devices enable climbers to perform tasks previously done manually, with greater control – in all conditions – and with less effort. Examples of replacements include the harness (replaced tying the rope around the waist) ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders (or ladders), for upward momentum. Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing (in both its traditional or sport free climbing formats), which only uses mechanical equipment for protection, but not to assist in upward momentum. Aid climbing can involve hammering in permanent pitons and bolts, into which the aiders are clipped, but there is also 'clean aid climbing' which avoids any hammering, and only uses removable placements. While aid climbing traces its origins to the start of all climbing when ladders and pitons were common, its use in single-pitch climbing waned in the early 20th century with the rise of free climbing. At the same time, the Dolomites became the birthplace of modern " big wall aid climbing", where pioneers like Emilio Comici developed the early tools and techniques. Aid climbing's "golden age" was in the 1960s and 1970s on Yosemite's granite big ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
John Bachar
John Bachar (March 23, 1957 – July 5, 2009) was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he ultimately died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bachar ladder. Early life and education Bachar was born in 1957. He grew up in Los Angeles, California, and started climbing at the bouldering hot spot of Stoney Point in the northern San Fernando Valley. After attending Westchester High School, graduating in 1974, he attended UCLA, where his father was a math professor, but dropped out to climb full-time. Obsessed with the sport, he immersed himself in books on physical training and nutrition, and soon was able to outperform his fellow climbers. Fellow students at his high school remember him scaling the exterior high school gym walls on many occasions. Climbing career John Long, John Yablonski, Ron Kauk and Mike Graham, whom Bachar met in the early 1970s, all free soloed with him, star ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California. In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Washington Column with John Long and John Bachar. In 1978 he climbed the roof crack '' Separate Reality,'' without camming devices. The same year he put up ''Midnight Lightning''. In 1979, along with John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, and Bill Forrest, he made the first ascent of ''East Face'', Uli Biaho, Pakistan. In 1990 he put up the rap-bolted ''Crossroads'' and in 1997 he climbed ''Magic Line'' on pre-placed gear, both in Yosemite. Early life Kauk was born and raised in Redwood City, California. Climbing In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of Washington Column with John Long and John Bachar, renaming the route ''Astroman'' ( 5.11c). ''Astroman'' held title as the hardest long free route in Yosemite Valley for a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Patrick Berhault
Patrick Berhault (19 July 1957 – 28 April 2004) was a French professional rock climber and mountaineer, who specialized in sport climbing and alpine climbing. He died climbing the Dom ridge, Switzerland, during his attempt to do an enchainment of all 82 Alpine 4,000-metere summits in 82 days. Patrick Berhault is best known for popularizing sport climbing in France with his friend rock climber legend Patrick Edlinger in the late 70s and in the 80s. He also practiced free solo climbing and was one of the pioneer alpinists who developed light and fast mountaineering in the nineties. Died when he fell down from ridge between Dom and Täschhorn in Wallis. Documentary films * Voie Express 1979 (Laurent Chevalier) * Nangat Parbat 1980 (Laurent Chevalier) * Overdon 1980 (Jean–Paul Janssen) * OverIce 1981 (Jean–Paul Janssen) * Oversand 1981 (Jean–Paul Janssen) * Dévers 1981 (Laurent Chevalier) * Paroi en coulisse 1983 (Laurent Chevalier) * Histoire de l’alpinisme 1985 ( ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Bernd Arnold
Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes in the region and became one of the most influential German climbers of his era. He is well-known for climbing barefoot, even on very hard routes. Climbing career His first remarkable ascent was the ''Route Zehn'' (VIIIc) at Meurerturm in 1966, when he was only 19 years old. In 1970 he climbed the ''Nordwand'' at the rock tower Schwager in the Schrammsteine area and achieved a difficulty of grade IXb. This might have been the hardest free climbing route in the world at the time. First ascents such as the ''Nonplusultra'' (IXb) at Mittlerer Torstein, ''Talseite'' (IXb) at Teufelsspitze, and ''Lineal'' (IXa) at Meurerturm followed. In 1977 Arnold was the first to climb grade IXc when he achieved his first ascent of ''Direkte Superlative'' ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
