Tracee Metcalfe
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Tracee Metcalfe
Tracee Lee Metcalfe is a mountaineer, backcountry skier and internal medicine physician from Vail, Colorado. Metcalfe received her M.D. from University of Colorado Denver's School of Medicine. She first started climbing eight-thousanders in 2015. Metcalfe is the first American woman to climb all 14 of the world's highest mountains over 8,000 meters. Background Metcalfe grew up in Los Angeles, and first began climbing as a teenager. She began mountaineering with earnest after moving to Colorado in 1992, where she would go on to attend Colorado College. She graduated from medical school at the University of Colorado School of Medicine in 2003. She completed her medical residency in internal medicine in Seattle, and then moved back to Colorado to work at Vail Health Hospital. In 2012, Metcalfe climbed Denali while volunteering with the National Park Service as a climbing ranger and expedition doctor. The experience encouraged her to look into working as a doctor for climbing expedi ...
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Mountaineer
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports. Unlike most sports, mountaineering lacks widely applied formal rules, regulations, and governance; mountaineers adhere to a large variety of techniques and philosophies (including grading and guidebooks) when climbing mountains. Numerous local alpine clubs support mountaineers by hosting resources and social activities. A federation of alpine clubs, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), is the International Olympic Committee-recognized world organization for mountaineering and climbing. The consequences of mountaineering on the natural env ...
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COVID-19 Pandemic In The United States
On December 31, 2019, China announced the discovery of a cluster of pneumonia cases in Wuhan. The first American case was reported on January 20, and United States Department of Health and Human Services, Health and Human Services Secretary Alex Azar declared a Public health emergency (United States), public health emergency on January 31. Restrictions were placed on flights arriving from China, but the initial U.S. response to the pandemic was otherwise slow in terms of preparing the healthcare system, stopping other travel, and COVID-19 testing in the United States, testing. The first known American deaths occurred in February and in late February President Donald Trump proposed allocating $2.5 billion to fight the outbreak. Instead, Congress approved $8.3 billion and Trump signed the Coronavirus Preparedness and Response Supplemental Appropriations Act, 2020 on March 6. Trump declared a State of emergency, national emergency on March 13. The government also purchased lar ...
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Eight Thousanders
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statis ...
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Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of this mountain was in June 1957, accomplished by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl as part of an Austrian expedition. Geography Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan situated on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located in the Karakoram mountain range, approximately from K2. The peak's name aptly describes its physical characteristics, with a summit that extends over 1.5 kilometers (7⁄8 miles) in length, giving it the appearance of a "broad peak." Three of the mountain's five summits are eight-thousanders: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), with Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m) being th ...
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Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. The mountain was first climbed on July 7, 1956, by an Austrian expedition which included Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart. Geography Gasherbrum II is located on the border of Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, and Xinjiang, China. It is part of the Karakoram mountain range in the Himalayas, and located at the top of the Baltoro Glacier. With an elevation of it is the third-highest member of the Gasherbrum group, behind Gasherbrum I () and Broad Peak (). Gasherbrum III is sometimes considered to be a subpeak of Gasherbrum II, because the former has a topographic prominence of only . Naming In 1856, Thomas George Montgomerie, a member of the British Royal Engineers and part of the Great Trigonometric Survey ...
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Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I, originally surveyed as K5, and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan in the Xinjiang province of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum Massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya. ''Gasherbrum'' is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain". Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the Karakoram) by T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200 km away during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India. In 1892, William Martin Conway provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness, due to whic ...
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Lhotse
Lhotse ( ; ; ) is the List of highest mountains#List, fourth-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. At an elevation of above sea level, the main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal. With Everest to the north and Nuptse to the west, Lhotse forms the apex of the massive horseshoe-shaped arc of the Everest massif. Despite the tremendous vertical relief of its South and Northeast Faces, it is the least prominent of the eight-thousanders due to the great height of the South Col between it and Everest. Lhotse's Western Face, recessed behind the head of the Khumbu Glacier in the Western Cwm, plays an integral part in the standard routes of ascent for both peaks. The name ''Lhotse'', which means "South Peak" in Tibetic languages, Tibetan, further emphasizes the close relationship between the two. The main ridge of the mountain features four distinct summits: Lhotse Main at height above mean ...
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Bottleneck (K2)
The Bottleneck is a location along the South-East Spur (also known as Abruzzi Spur), the most-used route to the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain in the world, in the Karakoram, on the border of Pakistan and China. The Bottleneck is a narrow couloir, which is overhung by seracs from the ice field east of the summit. The couloir is located only below the summit, and climbers have to traverse about exposed to the seracs to pass it. Due to the height of , and the steepness of 50 to 60 degrees, this stretch is the most dangerous part of the route. According to AdventureStats, 13 out of the last 14 fatalities on K2 have occurred at or near the Bottleneck. Despite all the dangers, the Bottleneck is still technically the easiest and fastest route to the summit. Most climbers choose to use it to minimize time required to spend above (the "death zone"). The standard route, the Abruzzi Spur (SE), as well as the Cesen route (SSE Ridge, which joins SE Ridge), and the American var ...
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Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir, Nanga Parbat is the westernmost major peak of the Himalayas, and thus in the traditional view of the Himalayas as bounded by the Indus and Yarlung Tsangpo/Brahmaputra rivers, it is the western anchor of the entire mountain range. Nanga Parbat is one of the 14 eight-thousanders. An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, it has the second-highest prominence among the 100 tallest mountains on Earth only behind Mount Everest. Nanga Parbat is notorious for being an extremely difficult climb, and has earned the nickname ''Killer Mountain'' for its high number of climber fatalities and pushing climbers to their limits. According to Guinness World Records, Nanga Parbat is the fastest growing mountai ...
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Avalanche
An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a Grade (slope), slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be triggered spontaneously, by factors such as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, other animals, and earthquakes. Primarily composed of flowing snow and air, large avalanches have the capability to capture and move ice, rocks, and trees. Avalanches occur in two general forms, or combinations thereof: slab avalanches made of tightly packed snow, triggered by a collapse of an underlying weak snow layer, and loose snow avalanches made of looser snow. After being set off, avalanches usually accelerate rapidly and grow in mass and volume as they capture more snow. If an avalanche moves fast enough, some of the snow may mix with the air, forming a powder snow avalanche. Though they appear to share similarities, avalanches are distinct from slush flows, Mudflow, mudslides, Landslide#Debris landslide, rock slides, and serac collap ...
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Anna Gutu
Anna Gutu (1990 or 1991 – October 7, 2023) was a Moldovian-American climber and high-altitude mountaineer. She is known for her pursuit to become the first American woman, and the third overall American climber, to climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders (which are peaks above 8,000 meters in elevation). Climbing In 2023, Gutu summited Dhaulagiri (June), Kangchenjunga (September), and Cho Oyu (October). In October, she was climbing her final ascent, Shishapangma in Tibet, with Mingma Sherpa, her Nepalese guide, when she was killed in an avalanche. Gina Marie Rzucidlo, who was also in the last leg of competing for the title of the first American woman to climb all 14 summits, died in the avalanche shortly afterwards. Personal life A U.S. citizen, Gutu was born in Odesa Odesa, also spelled Odessa, is the third most populous List of cities in Ukraine, city and List of hromadas of Ukraine, municipality in Ukraine and a major seaport and transport hub located in the south-wes ...
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Gina Marie Rzucidlo
Gina Marie Rzucidlo (January 28, 1978 – October 7, 2023) was an American high-altitude mountaineer. She is recognized for her pursuit to become the first American woman and the third American climber to Eight-thousander#List of climbers of all 14, climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders (which are peaks above 8,000 meters in elevation). Climbing Rzucidlo successfully climbed Mount Everest in May 2018, she then completed the Seven Summits in 2019 with an ascent of Carstensz Pyramid. She completed K2 in 2022, becoming the first American woman to climb the world's three highest peaks. In 2023, she summited Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Nanga Parbat, becoming the first American woman to complete the latter. In October 2023, she was climbing Shishapangma in Tibet, the last of the 14 peaks, accompanied by Tenjen Sherpa when an avalanche occurred. She was declared dead on October 7. Anna Gutu, who was also in the last leg of competing for the title of the first American woman to climb all 14 sum ...
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