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Mixed Climbing
Mixed climbing is an ice climbing discipline used on climbing routes that do not have enough ice to be regular ice climbs, but are also not dry enough to be regular rock climbing, rock climbs. To ascend the route, the mixed-climber uses ice-climbing equipment throughout (e.g. double ice tools and crampons), but to climbing protection, protect the route, they use both ice climbing#Equipment, ice and rock-climbing equipment, rock equipment. Mixed climbing varies from routes with sections of thick layers of ice and sections of bare rock, to routes that are mostly bare rock but which are "iced-up" in a thin layer of ice and/or snow. While alpinists have used mixed climbing techniques for decades (most north-facing alpine routes are iced or snow-covered), it came to prominence with Jeff Lowe's ascent of the partially bolted ''Octopussy'' (WI6, M8 R) in 1994. Mixed climbing also led to the sport of dry-tooling, which is mixed climbing on routes that are completely free of all ice or ...
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Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of climbing protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Climbing routes that are bolted are known as sport climbs, and those that do not use (or allow) bolts, are known as traditional climbs. Description While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a bolt hanger (or a fixed hanger) is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a bolt runner (or a carrot) describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket such as a rivet hanger). A climbing rope is then clipped into the carabiner. Generally quickdraws or slings are employed between bolt hangers and the rope to reduce drag when ascending, belaying and rappelling. Types Variations of ...
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Rock & Ice
''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became equal partners in September of that year. The magazine was bought out within the first year by George Bracksieck, who remained publisher and editor until the end of December 1997. His company, Eldorado Publishing, sold Rock & Ice to North-South Publications, an investment group led by Dougald MacDonald. After a few years, it was sold to Big Stone. The magazine is published eight times a year. It was headquartered in Boulder, Colorado until 2002, when it moved to Carbondale, Colorado. Rock & Ice was purchased by Outside in 2021. The cover of the first issue featured Alex Lowe climbing the first ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documente ...
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Outside (magazine)
''Outside'' is a magazine focused on the outdoors. The first issue of the ''Outside'' magazine was published in September 1977. It is published by Outside Inc., a company that also owns various other ventures. History ''Outside'' founders were Jann Wenner (the first editor in chief), William Randolph Hearst III (its first managing editor), and Jack Ford (an assistant to founding publisher Donald Welsh and a son of former U.S. President Gerald Ford Gerald Rudolph Ford Jr. (born Leslie Lynch King Jr.; July 14, 1913December 26, 2006) was the 38th president of the United States, serving from 1974 to 1977. A member of the Republican Party (United States), Republican Party, Ford assumed the p ...). Wenner sold ''Outside'' to Lawrence J. Burke two years later. Burke merged it into his magazine ''Mariah'' (founded in 1976) and after a period of using the name ''Mariah/Outside'' kept the ''Outside'' name for the merged magazine. In 2021, Burke sold ''Outside'' to Pocket Outdoor ...
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Vail, Colorado
Vail is a Home rule in the United States, home rule municipality in Eagle County, Colorado, Eagle County, Colorado, United States. The population of the town was 4,835 in 2020. Home to Vail Ski Resort, the largest ski mountain in Colorado, the town is known for its hotels, dining, and for the numerous events the city hosts annually, such as the Vail Film Festival, Vail Resorts Snow Days, and Bravo! Vail. History Vail was incorporated in 1966, four years after the opening of Vail Ski Resort. The Ski resort, ski area was founded by Pete Seibert and local rancher Earl Eaton in 1962, at the base of Vail Pass. The pass was named after Charles Vail, the highway engineer who routed U.S. Route 6 in Colorado, U.S. Highway 6 through the Eagle Valley in 1940, which eventually became Interstate 70 in Colorado, Interstate 70. Seibert, a New England native, served in the U.S. Army's 10th Mountain Division (United States), 10th Mountain Division during World War II, which trained at Camp Hal ...
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Alpine Climber
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams). Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in couloirs), seracs and crevasses, violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration, edema, fros ...
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Alpine Climbing
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams). Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in couloirs), seracs and crevasses, violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration, edema, f ...
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Men's Journal
''Men's Journal'' was an American men's lifestyle magazine focused on outdoor recreation and comprising editorials on the outdoors, environmental issues, health and fitness, style and fashion, and gear. It was founded in 1992 by Jann Wenner of Wenner Media, who sought to create a publication for "active, accomplished men to fuel an adventurous and discerning lifestyle". Wenner Media sold ''Men's Journal'' to American Media, Inc. in 2017. The Arena Group acquired ''Men's Journal'' in 2022. Format Each issue of ''Men's Journal'' is divided into 3 subsections: *Notebook – encompasses the latest trends, products, destinations, style & design *Blueprint – provides the latest science articles and expert advice on diet, fitness, and exercise *Gear Lab – a monthly buyer's guide of tested and approved essentials: tech, tools and toys. ''Men's Journal'' hires experts and professionals to examine the products; the best performing gear throughout the year get highlighted in the Dece ...
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Free Solo Climbing
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their liquid chalk, climbing chalk. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed Grade (climbing), climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities. Some climbers' profiles have been increased by free soloing (e.g. Alex Honnold and John Bachar), but others question the ethics of this, and whether the risks they are undertaking should be encouraged and commercially rewarded. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the 2018 Academy Awards, Os ...
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Ice Screw
An ice screw is a threaded tubular Screw fastener, screw used as a running belay or anchor by climbing, climbers on steep ice surface such as steep waterfall ice or alpine ice during ice climbing or crevasse rescue, to hold the climber in the event of a fall, and at belays as anchor points. Design Ice screws may come with one or more of the following: an in-built or separate ratchet mechanism to speed up placement, conical centre-hole to aid removal of ice cores, different lengths, different numbers of cutting teeth, different cutting angles, different surface finishes, and different size clip holes. Price and durability are usually design considerations too, as a usable rack of ice screws will be a significant financial investment for many climbers. Many titanium ice screws were initially made in the former Soviet Union using Cold War-era missile technology, but were generally too brittle, and so the majority of ice screws are now made of 41xx steel, chromoly steel. As of 2011, ...
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Ice Climbing
Ice climbing is a climbing discipline that involves ascending routes consisting entirely of frozen water. To ascend, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes (or the more modern ice tools) and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles. From the 1970s, ice climbing developed as a standalone skill from alpine climbing (where ice climbing skills are used on ice and snow). Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe. WI7 is very rare and usually attributed to overhanging ice with serious risk issues (i.e. unstable ice, little protection, and a risk of death). Mixed climbing has pushed the technical difficulty of ice climbi ...
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Ice Axe
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow or ice covered (e.g. ice climbing or mixed climbing) conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand. On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp belay. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor. History The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled alpenstock that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of self-arrest in the event of a slip downhill. Most ice axes meet design a ...
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