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Master's Wall
''Indian Face'' is a traditional climbing route on the rhyolite "Great Wall" of the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales. When English climber Johnny Dawes completed the first free ascent of the route on 4 October 1986, it was graded E9 6c or (5.13a X), the first-ever E9-graded route, and was considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world. ''Indian Face'' is still considered one of the world's most intimidating traditional climbs, and even decades after its first ascent, it is rarely repeated. The ascent was an historic moment in the transition from traditional climbing as the dominant form of extreme rock climbing (in Britain, and elsewhere), to the safer form of sport climbing, which became the focus for the leading climbers. History Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has long been considered a "crucible" of British traditional climbing, with many of Britain's leading climbers creating notable routes on its buttresses. The most challenging section is ...
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Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (; ) is a north-facing rhyolite set of cliffs located on the northern flank of Snowdon mountain. Clogwyn Du'r Arddu is considered to be one of the best traditional climbing areas in Britain, and has been called "The shrine of British climbing", and a "crucible for the development of most of the finest climbers in Britain and the scene of many of their finest achievements". Structure Clogwyn Du'r Arddu is a north-facing mountain crag that requires a long walk-in from Llanberis. The cliff is broken into several large buttresses, most notably: ''East Buttress'', ''The Pinnacle'' (lies above the ''East Buttress''), ''West Buttress'', and ''Far West Buttress''. The cliff's circa in height and mountain elevation, combined with the steepness and quality of rock, gives it the feel of a face on an alpine mountain. Climbing history The first recorded climb was the 1798 ascent of the ''Eastern Terrace'' by Peter Bailey Williams and William Bingley, both botanists looki ...
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Joe Brown (climber)
Joseph Brown (26 September 1930 – 15 April 2020) was an English mountaineer who was regarded as an outstanding pioneer of rock climbing during the 1950s and early 1960s. Together with his early climbing partner, Don Whillans, he was one of a new breed of British post-war climbers who came from working class backgrounds in contrast to the upper and middle class professionals who had dominated the sport up to the Second World War. He became the first person to climb the third-highest mountain in the world when he was on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. Some of his climbs were televised and he assisted with mountaineering scenes in several films; Brown died on 15 April 2020 at the age of 89. Early life Brown was born the seventh and last child of a family in Ardwick, Manchester, England. His father was a builder and merchant seaman who died in 1931 when Brown was eight months old. Brown's mother was forced to take in washing before she began work as a cleaner. I ...
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Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. MacLeod is known for being the second-ever person to free solo a graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef, in 2008), and for climbing one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world ('' Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock, graded E11 7a, in 2006). Climbing career Rock climbing In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb '' Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock which, at a grade of E11 7a, was the hardest traditional climbing route in the world at the time. The ascent of ''Rhapsody'' is the subject of the movie ''E11'' (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions. In 2008, MacLeod became the second-ever person free solo an graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef). In 2008, MacLeod completed the traditional rock climb ''Echo Wall'', an extreme and as-yet ungraded rock climb on Ben Nevis, which took two years of preparation. MacLeo ...
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Campus Board
A campus board (or pan Güllich) is a training tool that has been widely adopted by sport climbing, sport climbers to improve their plyometric performance and led to dramatic improvements in climbing technique in all rock climbing disciplines. The campus board was invented in 1988 by German climber Wolfgang Güllich to help him climb the world's hardest consensus-graded route at the time, ''Action Directe (climb), Action Directe'', and has since become a standard training tool for climbers. Other climbing training 'boards' have been developed since the campus board, including the MoonBoard, a small customized overhanging indoor climbing wall also for plyometric performance, and the hangboard (or also the fingerboard), a device for building up static strength, particularly in the fingers, but also in the arms. Description Typically, a user ascends or descends the campus board using only their hands, and often leaping from hold to hold (i.e both hands are off the board while transit ...
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Plyometric
Plyometrics, also known as jump training or plyos, are exercises in which muscles exert maximum force in short intervals of time, with the goal of increasing power (speed-strength). This training focuses on learning to move from a muscle extension to a contraction in a rapid or "explosive" manner, such as in specialized repeated jumping. Plyometrics are primarily used by athletes, especially martial artists, sprinters and high jumpers, to improve performance, and are used in the fitness field to a much lesser degree. Overview Plyometrics include explosive exercises to activate the quick response and elastic properties of the major muscles. It was initially adopted by Soviet Olympians in the 1950s, and then by sportspeople worldwide. Sports using plyometrics include basketball, tennis, badminton, squash and volleyball as well as the various codes of football. The term "plyometrics" was coined by Fred Wilt after watching Soviet athletes prepare for their events in track and ...
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List Of Grade Milestones In Rock Climbing
In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch or bouldering, bouldering climbing route that did not involve using aid climbing, aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport climbing, sport, a traditional climbing, traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in history of rock climbing, rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated overall Grade (climbing), grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed. A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take ye ...
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Ben Moon (climber)
Ben Moon (born 13 June 1966) is a rock climber from England. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Moon, along with climbing partner Jerry Moffatt, were the two strongest British rock climbers and were key pioneers in the development of standards in international sport climbing. In 1991, Moon made the first-ever redpoint in history of a consensus grade climbing route with his ascent of '' Hubble. Climbing career Moon's first officially declared routes had somewhat controversial names. The routes were both in France and had been previously attempted for a long time by local climbers. After climbing them Moon named them after French military disasters, first the Maginot Line, at Volx, and secondly Agincourt, at Buoux. On 8 June 2015, Moon redpointed the Steve McClure route ''Rainshadow'', , at Malham Cove in North Yorkshire, England. Business ventures In 2002, Moon founded his climbing clothing and equipment company, Moon Climbing, after splitting from his previous c ...
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Climbing Protection
Rock-climbing equipment varies with the specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes, climbing chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing, and the related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders). Advances in equipment are a key part of the rock climbing history, starting with the climbing rope. Modern devices enable climbers to perform tasks previously done manually, with greater control – in all conditions – and with less effort. Examples of replacements include the harness (replaced tying the rope around the waist) ...
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Rhapsody (climb)
''Rhapsody'' is a long traditional climbing climbing route, route up a thin crack climbing, crack on a slightly overhanging vertical basalt rock face on Dumbarton Rock, in Scotland. When Scottish climber Dave MacLeod made the first free ascent in 2006, it became Britain's first-ever Grade (climbing)#British E-grade, E11-graded route, and at the grade of , ''Rhapsody'' was the world's hardest traditional route. It set a Traditional climbing#Hardest routes, grade milestone in traditional climbing that stood for over a decade until the ascent of ''Tribe'' at grade E11-12 in 2019 and of ''Bon Voyage'' at grade E12 in 2024. ''Rhapsody'' shares the same central crack-line as another notable traditional climbing route called ''Requiem'' (the two routes deviate for the last 10 metres near the top as the crack-line peters out). Scottish climber Dave Cuthbertson made the first free ascent of ''Requiem'' in 1983, creating Britain's first-ever Grade (climbing)#British E-grade, E8-graded ...
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Steve McClure
Steve McClure (born 25 July 1970) is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created ''Rainman'', Britain's first-ever sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded and above in Britain. Although mainly known for sport climbing, McClure has also been one of the most successful British traditional climbers, and British onsight climbers (in both sport climbing and traditional climbing formats). Climbing career McClure started climbing early as both parents were keen climbers, and by age 16 was onsighting E6. McClure did not take up British sport climbing until he was 24, and said that it took him time to adapt saying, " n sportit's possible to commit 100%, rather than considering the risk and the danger n traditional. He went from onsighting E6 to onsighting ...
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Guidebook
A guide book or travel guide is "a book of information about a place designed for the use of visitors or tourists". It will usually include information about sights, accommodation, restaurants, transportation, and activities. Maps of varying detail and historical and cultural information are often included. Different kinds of guide books exist, focusing on different aspects of travel, from adventure travel to relaxation, or aimed at travelers with different incomes, or focusing on sexual orientation or types of diet. Travel guides or guide books can also take the form of travel websites. History Antiquity A forerunner of the guidebook was the '' periplus'', an itinerary from landmark to landmark of the ports along a coast. A ''periplus'' such as the ''Periplus of the Erythraean Sea'' was a manuscript document that listed, in order, the ports and coastal landmarks, with approximate intervening distances, that the captain of a vessel could expect to find along a shore. This w ...
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Headpoint
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B C D E F G ...
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