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Golden Age Of Alpinism
The golden age of alpinism was the decade in mountaineering between Alfred Wills's ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 and Edward Whymper's ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, during which many major peaks in the Alps saw their first ascents. Prominent figures With its beginning slightly predating the formation of the Alpine Club in London in 1857, the golden age was dominated by British alpinists and their Swiss and French guides. Prominent figures of the period include Lord Francis Douglas, Paul Grohmann, Florence Crauford Grove, Charles Hudson, E. S. Kennedy, William Mathews, A. W. Moore, John Ball, Leslie Stephen, Francis Fox Tuckett, John Tyndall, Horace Walker and Edward Whymper. Well-known guides of the era include Christian Almer, Jakob Anderegg, Melchior Anderegg, Johann Joseph Bennen ( fr), Peter Bohren, Jean-Antoine Carrel, Michel Croz, Ulrich Kaufmann and Johannes Zumtaugwald. Lucy Walker, sister of Horace, attained some notable firsts during the period, including th ...
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Matterhorn Ascent Dore
The (, ; it, Cervino, ; french: Cervin, ; rm, Matterhorn) is a mountain of the Alps, straddling the main watershed and border between Switzerland and Italy. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa area of the Pennine Alps, whose summit is high, making it one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe.Considering summits with at least 300 metres prominence, it is the 6th highest in the Alps and Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points and are split by the ''Hörnli'', ''Furggen'', ''Leone''/''Lion'', and ''Zmutt'' ridges. The mountain overlooks the Swiss town of Zermatt, in the canton of Valais, to the northeast; and the Italian town of Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. Just east of the Matterhorn is Theodul Pass, the main passage between the two valleys on its north and south sides, which has been a trade route since the Roman Era. ...
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John Ball (naturalist)
John Ball (20 August 1818 – 21 October 1889) was an Irish politician, naturalist and Alpine traveller. Background and education Ball was born in Dublin, the eldest son of Nicholas Ball, judge of the Court of Common Pleas (Ireland) and his wife Jane Sherlock. He was educated at Oscott College near Birmingham, and at Christ's College, Cambridge, where he was 41st Wrangler but as a Roman Catholic could not be admitted to a BA degree. He showed in his early years a taste for natural science, particularly botany; and after leaving Cambridge he travelled in Switzerland and elsewhere in Europe and North Africa, studying his favourite pursuits, and contributing papers on botany and the Swiss glaciers to scientific periodicals. Political career In 1846 Ball was made an assistant poor-law commissioner, but resigned in 1847, and in 1848 stood unsuccessfully as a parliamentary candidate for Sligo. In 1849 he was appointed second poor-law commissioner, but resigned in 1852 and succ ...
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Ulrich Kaufmann
Ulrich Kaufmann ( – ) was a Swiss mountain guide. He was born and died in Grindelwald. He was among the first Westerners to visit the mountain ranges of New Zealand and the Himalayas. Biography In August 1857, Kaufmann participated in the first ascent of the Mönch. In July 1856, the Viennese physician Sigmund Porges had climbed the Jungfrau with the Grindelwald guide Christian Almer. The next year he came back to attempt a first ascent of the notorious Eiger. Christian Almer was Ulrich Kaufmann's brother in law, possibly explaining how Porges included the 17-year old Kaufmann as one of his guides, along with Almer and Christian Kaufmann Sr. They took off on August 13, but conditions were poor. The attempt on Eiger faltered the next day, and the party turned its attention to the neighboring Mönch. They had another bivouac an hour below the Mönchjoch (pass) and finally summited Mönch at 3 pm on August 15, after Kaufmann and his fellow guides had cut 300 steps in ice. The n ...
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Michel Croz
Michel Auguste Croz (22 April 1830 in Le Tour, Chamonix valley – 14 July 1865, on the Matterhorn) was a French mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains in the western Alps during the golden age of alpinism. He is chiefly remembered for his death on the first ascent of the Matterhorn and for his climbing partnership (as a guide) with Edward Whymper. Career as a guide Croz began his guiding career in 1859 when he was engaged by William Mathews for an ascent of Mont Blanc. As well as making the first ascent of some of the most significant unclimbed mountains in the Alps – the Grande Casse, Monte Viso, the Barre des Écrins and the Aiguille d'Argentière – he also made the first traverse of many previously uncrossed cols, including the col des Ecrins, the col du Sélé and the col du Glacier Blanc in the Massif des Écrins (all in 1862 with Francis Fox Tuckett, Peter Perren and Bartolomméo Peyrotte). In 1863, he climbed the Grandes Rousses with William ...
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Jean-Antoine Carrel
Jean-Antoine Carrel (1829 – August 1891) was an Italian mountain climber and guide. He had made climbs with Edward Whymper and was his rival when he attempted to climb the Matterhorn for the first time. Whymper ultimately succeeded in making the mountain's first ascent in July 1865 while Carrel led the party that achieved the second ascent three days later. Carrel was in the group that became the first Europeans to reach the summit of Chimborazo in 1880. He died from exhaustion when guiding a party on the south side of the Matterhorn. Early life Carrel was born on 16 January 1829 in Valtournenche, in the Aosta Valley, an Arpitan-speaking village of Kingdom of Sardinia (now Italy) which lies at the foot of the Matterhorn. He served in the Bersaglieri, a light infantry unit of the Piedmontese army. He resigned from the Bersaglieri to work as a hunter and mountain guide, but was recalled to duty in 1859 to defend Italy against Austria in the Second Italian War of Independence, f ...
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Peter Bohren
Peter Bohren (June 20, 1822 – July 4, 1882) was a Swiss mountain guide from Grindelwald. Peter Bohren made three first ascents in the Bernese Alps. On August 11, 1858, he jointly made the first ascent of the Eiger (3967 m above sea level), climbing via the west face with fellow guide, Christian Almer, and Charles Barrington. The group started at 3:30 a.m. at the Hotel Wengernalp and the mountaineers reached the summit of the Eiger in the fog at 12 noon. The following year, he reached the Aletschhorn (4193 m) with two colleagues and a guest on June 18, 1859. His last first ascent was the Äbeni Flue The Ebnefluh, also known as the Äbeni Flue and the Ebenefluh, (3,962 m) is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, located on the border between the Swiss cantons of Bern and Valais. It lies towards the eastern end of the Lauterbrunnen Wall The Laut ... (3962 m) together with a colleague and a guest via today's normal route (southwest flank and southeast ridge) on August 27, 18 ...
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Johann Joseph Bennen
Johann, typically a male given name, is the German form of ''Iohannes'', which is the Latin form of the Greek name ''Iōánnēs'' (), itself derived from Hebrew name ''Yochanan'' () in turn from its extended form (), meaning "Yahweh is Gracious" or "Yahweh is Merciful". Its English language equivalent is John. It is uncommon as a surname. People People with the name Johann include: A–K * Johann Adam Hiller (1728–1804), German composer * Johann Adam Reincken (1643–1722), Dutch/German organist * Johann Adam Remele (died 1740), German court painter * Johann Adolf I, Duke of Saxe-Weissenfels (1649–1697) * Johann Adolph Hasse (1699-1783), German Composer * Johann Altfuldisch (1911—1947), German Nazi SS concentration camp officer executed for war crimes * Johann Andreas Eisenmenger (1654–1704), German Orientalist * Johann Baptist Wanhal (1739–1813), Czech composer * Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach (1656–1723), Austrian architect * Johann Bernoulli (1667–1748), ...
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Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg (28 March 1828 – 8 December 1914), from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. His clients were mostly British, the most famous of whom was Leslie Stephen, the writer, critic and mountaineer; Anderegg also climbed extensively with members of the Walker family, including Horace Walker and Lucy Walker, and with Florence Crauford Grove. His cousin Jakob Anderegg was also a well-known guide. Alpine guide First ascents by Melchior Anderegg *Wildstrubel, 3,243 m (Bernese Alps), 11 September 1858 *Rimpfischhorn, 4,199 m (Pennine Alps), 9 September 1859 *Alphubel, 4,206 m (Pennine Alps), 9 August 1860 *Blüemlisalphorn, 3,664 m (Bernese Alps), 27 August 1860 *Monte Disgrazia, 3,678 m (Bregaglia Range), 23 August 1862 *Dent d'Hérens, 4,171 m (Pennine Alps), 12 August 1863 *Parrotspitze, 4,432 m (Pennine Alps), 16 August 1863 *Balmhorn, 3,698 ...
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Jakob Anderegg
Jakob Anderegg (11 March 1829, in Oberwil im Simmental – 17 September 1878, in Meiringen) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Jakob Anderegg made the first ascent of the following peaks or routes: * Balmhorn ( Bernese Alps), 21 July 1864 with Frank, Lucy and Horace Walker, and Melchior Anderegg * Piz Roseg (Bernina Range) with A. W. Moore and Horace Walker on 28 June 1865 * Ober Gabelhorn (Pennine Alps) with A. W. Moore and Horace Walker on 6 July 1865 * Pigne d'Arolla (Pennine Alps) with A. W. Moore and Melchior Anderegg on 9 July 1865 * Brenva Spur of Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc massif) with George Spencer Mathews, A. W. Moore, Frank and Horace Walker on 15 July 1865 * Gspaltenhorn The Gspaltenhorn is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, located between the valleys of Kiental and Lauterbrunnen in the canton of Bern german: Berner(in)french: Bernois( ...
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Christian Almer
220px, Christian Almer Christian Almer (29 March 1826 – 17 May 1898) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Almer was born and died in Grindelwald, Canton of Bern. Climbing career Almer gave his dog ''Tschingel'' to the 17-year-old W. A. B. Coolidge after a failed attempt on the Eiger. Golden wedding anniversary On June 20 and 21, 1896, Almer and his wife Margaritha ("Gritli") celebrated their golden (50th) wedding anniversary by climbing the Wetterhorn: "The oldest of the Grindelwald guides, Christian Almer, well known to Alpine climbers, celebrated his golden wedding on Sunday in a novel way. Christian is seventy-four years of age, and his wife seventy-five. Accompanied by two of their younger sons and by the village doctor, the sturdy old couple made the ascent of the Wetterhorn, 12,150 ft high. Starting at a very early hour on Sunday morning, they reached the We ...
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Horace Walker
Horace Walker (1838–1908) was an English mountaineer who made many notable first ascents, including Mount Elbrus and the Grandes Jorasses. Alpinism Born in 1838, Walker was the son of Liverpool lead merchant and mountaineer Francis Walker (1808–1872) and brother of Lucy Walker (1836–1916), the first woman to climb the Matterhorn. Walker was President of the Alpine Club in 1891-1893. Commemoration The Horace Walker glacier and Horace Walker hut in the Southern Alps of New Zealand are named after him. In commemoration of his first ascent of the Grandes Jorasses on 30 June 1868, Walker gives his name to ''Pointe Walker'' (4,208 m), the highest summit of the mountain; this lends its name to the Walker Spur, the most well-known buttress on the north face and one of the great north faces of the Alps. First ascents *Barre des Écrins with A. W. Moore and Edward Whymper, and guides Michel Croz, Christian Almer the elder, and Christian Almer the younger on 25 June 186 ...
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