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Chipping (rock Climbing)
Chipping is a rock climbing technique that uses a hammer and chisel to manufacture new or increased hand-holds on the natural rock to make a climbing route more feasible. It is a controversial technique due to both environmental issues, and a sense that it goes against the very challenge of free climbing. The practice was more common in the past, it is considered less acceptable in modern climbing. History The process of chipping has been around since the first ascents of famous routes such as "Outer Limits" in 1971 and "The Nose" of El Capitan in Yosemite in 1958 when chipping was acceptable. Route manufacturing continued on through the clean climbing revolution of the 1970s where climbers moved away from outdated climbing technology, such as pitons, that damage rock to removable protection, such as nuts that do not damage the rock. Pitons are pins that are hammered into the rock, whereas nuts are small pieces of metal that fit into cracks and are removable. Manufacturing ...
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Rock Climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending climbing routes, routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in climbing guidebook, guidebooks, and on online databases, detailing how to climb the route (called the beta (climbing), beta), and who made the first ascent (or FA) and the coveted First ascent#In rock climbing, first free ascent (or FFA). Climbers will try to ascend a route onsight, however, a climber can spend years projecting (climbing), projecting a route before they make a redpoint (climbing), redpoint ascent. Routes range from a few metres to over a in height, and traverse (climbing), traverses can reach in length. They include slab climbing, slabs, face climbing, faces, crack climbing, cracks and overhang (climbing), overhangs/roofs. Popular rock types are granite (e.g. El Capitan), limestone (e.g. Verdon Gorge), and sandstone (e ...
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Climbing Route
A climbing route () is a path by which a Climbing, climber reaches the top of a mountain, a rock face or an ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing-route database. Details recorded will include elements such as the type of climbing route (e.g. bouldering route, sport climbing route, traditional climbing route, ice climbing route, and alpine climbing route, etc.), the Grade (climbing), difficulty grade of the route–and beta (climbing), beta on its crux (climbing), crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitch (climbing), pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment (e.g. climbing protection gear) that is needed to complete the route. There are definitions as to what is a valid ascent of a route (e.g. the redpoint (climbing), redpoint in rock climbing), and the class or style of ascent (e.g. onsighted, flash (climbing), flashed). The coveted first ascent (FA), first f ...
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Free Climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that are used in aid climbing to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was a transformational moment in the history of rock climbing, including the concept and definition of what determined a first free ascent (or FFA) of a route by a climber. Free climbing can be performed in several rock-climbing formats that vary with the type of climbing protection that is used. Thus, free climbing can be done as traditional climbing (which only uses temporary removable climbing protection), sport climbing (which only uses permanently fixed in-situ climbing protection), and bouldering and free solo climbing (both use no climbing protection whatsoever). Free climbing is sometimes misunderstood as ...
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El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit along its tallest face and is a world-famous location for big wall climbing, including the disciplines of aid climbing, free climbing, and more recently for free solo climbing. The top of El Capitan can be reached by hiking out of Yosemite Valley on the trail next to Yosemite Falls, then proceeding west. For climbers, the challenge is to climb up the sheer granite face. There are many named climbing routes, all of them arduous, including ''Iron Hawk'' and ''Sea of Dreams''. Naming The formation was named "El Capitan" by the Mariposa Battalion when they explored the valley in 1851. ''El Capitán'' ("the captain", "the chief") was taken to be a loose Spanish translation of the local Native Americans in the United States, Native American name ...
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Yosemite
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers in four countiescentered in Tuolumne and Mariposa, extending north and east to Mono and south to Madera. Designated a World Heritage Site in 1984, Yosemite is internationally recognized for its granite cliffs, waterfalls, clear streams, groves of giant sequoia, lakes, mountains, meadows, glaciers, and biological diversity. Almost 95 percent of the park is designated wilderness. Yosemite is one of the largest and least fragmented habitat blocks in the Sierra Nevada. Its geology is characterized by granite and remnants of older rock. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada was uplifted and tilted to form its unique slopes, which increased the steepness of stream and river beds, forming deep, narrow canyons. Abou ...
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Clean Climbing
Clean climbing is rock climbing techniques and equipment which climbers use in order to avoid damage to the rock. These techniques date at least in part from the 1920s and earlier in England, but the term itself may have emerged in about 1970 during the widespread and rapid adoption in the United States and Canada of nuts (also called chocks), and the very similar but often larger hexes, in preference to pitons, which damage rock and are more difficult and time-consuming to install. Pitons were thus eliminated in North America as a primary means of climbing protection in a period of less than three years. Due to major improvements in equipment and technique, the term ''clean climbing'' has come to occupy a far less central, and somewhat different, position in discussions of climbing technology, compared with that of the brief and formative period when it emerged four decades ago. Rock preservation Drilled and hammered equipment such as bolts, pitons, copperheads and others sca ...
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Piton
A piton (; also called ''pin'' or ''peg'') in big wall climbing and in aid climbing is a metal spike (usually steel) that is driven into a crack or seam in the climbing surface using a Rock climbing hammer, climbing hammer, and which acts as an anchor for protection (climbing), protecting the climber from falling or to assist progress in aid climbing. Pitons are equipped with an eye hole or a ring to which a carabiner is attached; the carabiner can then be directly or indirectly connected to a climbing rope. Pitons were the original form of protection (climbing), protection and are still used where there is no alternative. Repeated hammering and extraction of pitons damage the rock, and climbers who subscribe to the clean climbing ethic avoid their use as much as possible. With the popularization of clean climbing in the 1970s, pitons were largely replaced by faster and easier-to-use clean protection, such as nut (climbing), nuts and spring-loaded camming device, camming devi ...
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Climbing Protection
Rock-climbing equipment varies with the specific type of climbing that is undertaken. Bouldering needs the least equipment outside of climbing shoes, climbing chalk and optional crash pads. Sport climbing adds ropes, harnesses, belay devices, and quickdraws to clip into pre-drilled bolts. Traditional climbing adds the need to carry a "rack" of temporary passive and active protection devices. Multi-pitch climbing, and the related big wall climbing, adds devices to assist in ascending and descending fixed ropes. Finally, aid climbing uses unique equipment to give mechanical assistance to the climber in their upward movement (e.g. aiders). Advances in equipment are a key part of the rock climbing history, starting with the climbing rope. Modern devices enable climbers to perform tasks previously done manually, with greater control – in all conditions – and with less effort. Examples of replacements include the harness (replaced tying the rope around the waist) ...
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Nut (climbing)
In rock climbing, a nut (or ''chock'' or ''chockstone'' or wire for the smallest versions) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire that climbers use for protection by wedging it into a crack in the rock. Quickdraws are clipped to the nut wire by the ascending climber and the rope threads through the quickdraw. Nuts come in a variety of sizes and styles, and several different brands are made by competing manufacturers. Most nuts are made of aluminum. Larger nuts may be threaded on Dyneema cord instead of wire, but this has become unusual. The very smallest nuts are known as ''micronuts'' and may be made of brass or other metal, and typically have their wires soldered into them, instead of looped through drilled holes. They are mostly used in aid climbing, and their value as protection, arresting a climber's fall, is marginal because of both their low breaking strength and their tiny surface area (the HB 0 measures about 4 x 7 x 2.5 mm) in contact with the rock, though this can be o ...
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Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling (born 24 January 1970) is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade sport climbing routes in the world, including ''Hugh'' in 1993, the first-ever French sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of for his 1995 route ', which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at . Early life Rouhling grew up in the small French farming town of Le Panissaud. His neighboring village of Vilhonneur has a limestone quarry (which supplied materials for the Statue of Liberty). Twenty minutes away is the larger town of Angoulême, where limestone crags overhang many of the roads, with the best-known being Les Eaux Claires ("The Clear Waters"), with 15 to 20-metre overhanging extreme routes that require strong fingers to manage the small pockets used to ascend them; and contains nationally-regarded extreme routes such as ''La Crépi ...
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Riggins, Idaho
Riggins is a city in the western United States in Idaho County, Idaho. Nestled deep in a canyon at the confluence of the Salmon and Little Salmon rivers in west central Idaho, it is approximately north of Boise, and south-southeast of Lewiston. The elevation is above sea level, and its population was 419 at the 2010 census. U.S. Route 95, the only highway for the state connecting the Panhandle to the south, runs through Riggins as Main Street. Along this route, Riggins is the most northwestern town in the Mountain time zone; Pacific time begins just north of the city, across the Salmon River. History Riggins was named for Richard L. Riggins, local businessman and postmaster, and for his father, Fred Riggins, who carried the mail to the area for years. A sawmill was formerly operated in Riggins, until an explosion and fire in 1982. Geography According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of , of which, is land and is water. Climate Acco ...
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Dave Graham (climber)
David Ethan Graham (born November 10, 1981) is an American professional rock climbing, rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbing, sport climbers and bouldering, boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an graded bouldering, boulder problem called ''The Story of Two Worlds'', in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing (magazine), Climbing Magazine. Biography Born in Maine, Graham was introduced to climbing in 1997 by one of his skiing teammates. Within a year, he climbed an route, ''The Present''. Quickly, he became one of the strongest climbers in the United States, before moving to Europe in 2005. In 2005, he climbed an bouldering, boulder problem (''The Story Of Two Worl ...
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