Yukshin Gardan Sar
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Yukshin Gardan Sar ( ur, ) is a high peak in the Shimshal Valley, a village in the
Karakoram The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
range Range may refer to: Geography * Range (geographic), a chain of hills or mountains; a somewhat linear, complex mountainous or hilly area (cordillera, sierra) ** Mountain range, a group of mountains bordered by lowlands * Range, a term used to i ...
in
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. Its height is also often given as 7,469 m (24,505 ft) or 7,641 m (25,069 ft). It lies about 16 km (10 mi) northeast of
Khunyang Chhish Kunyang Chhish or Kunyang Chhish ( ur, ) is the second-highest mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange in the Karakoram mountains in Pakistan. An alternate variation of the name is Kunyang Kish. Its height, also sometimes given as , is ranke ...
and 6 km (3.75 mi) northwest of
Kanjut Sar Kanjut Sar (), or Kunjudh Sar as pronounced in Wakhi, is a mountain located in the Shimshal Valley, part of the Karakoram mountain range. The name ''Kunjudh Sar'' in Wakhi means "that which overlooks Kunjudh", or "above Kunjudh", while Khujudh ...
. It is flanked on the northwest by the Yazghil Glacier and on the northeast by the Yukshin Gardan Glacier; both drain into the
Shimshal River Shimshal (old name: Shingshal) ( ur, شمشال) is a village located in Gojal Tehsil of Hunza District, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies at an altitude of above sea level and is the highest settlement in the district. It is ...
. According to many residents of
Shimshal Shimshal (old name: Shingshal) ( ur, شمشال) is a village located in Gojal Tehsil of Hunza District, in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan. It lies at an altitude of above sea level and is the highest settlement in the district. It is ...
, Yukshin Gardan Sar is the name of the adjacent peak Kanjut Sar, and vice versa. In Shimshal village, the original namings are widely accepted and used, as opposed to what is recognised internationally. Yukshin Gardan Sar was first climbed in 1984, by a
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
i-
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
n group, led by Rudolf Wurzer. They ascended via the South Ridge, which they accessed via the Yazghil Glacier on the west side of the peak. The second ascent followed very shortly after the first, on July 23, 1984. A Pakistani-
Japan Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
ese group that had been on the mountain simultaneously with the first ascent party switched from their unworkable North Ridge route to make an
alpine style Alpine style is mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked ...
ascent of the first ascent route on the South Ridge. The third ascent of the peak was in 1986, by a
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team comprising Alejandro Arranz, Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, and Tomás Miguel. They used the same route as the first-ascent party. According to th
Himalayan Index
there have been no other ascents or attempts on this peak since that time.


Notes

# This prominence figure is approximate.


References

* Jill Neate, ''High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks'', The Mountaineers, 1989. * ''American Alpine Journal'' 1985, 1987. * Jerzy Wala, ''Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram'', Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990. Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram {{Pakistan-geo-stub