Trisul (Hindi: त्रिसूल) is a group of three Himalayan
mountain peaks of western Kumaun, with the highest (
Trisul I) reaching
7120m. The three peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit,
Trishula, trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the
southwest corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi
Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda
Devi itself. The main peak,
Trisul I, was the first peak over
7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.
1 Description of the massif and neighboring peaks
2 Climbing history
Trisul II and III
6 Other sources
Description of the massif and neighboring peaks
The three peaks are named
Trisul II, and
Trisul III. The
massif is a north-south ridge, with
Trisul I at the north end and
Trisul III at the south. The massif runs roughly North-South, and
hence appears compressed when viewed from the south (Ranikhet,
Kausani), and more stretched out from the Southeast (Chamoli, Bedini
Nanda Ghunti lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while Mrigthuni
is just to the southeast.
30°18′46″N 79°46′38″E / 30.31278°N 79.77722°E /
30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29000°N 79.77000°E /
30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25000°N 79.77000°E /
Trisul from Kausani, Uttarakhand
Sunrise on Trisul
T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in
September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides. He
returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine guides, and a
number of Gurkhas. They ascended through the Rishiganga valley, to the
north of the peak, onto the
Trisul Glacier, which lies on the east
side. From there they climbed the northeast flank to the north ridge,
reaching the summit on 12 June. At the time
Trisul was probably the
highest mountain to have been climbed. The climb was noted also for
the first use of supplementary oxygen in a major climb. During the
1950s Harold Williams led Indian Army expeditions to the summit.
Routes on the west face and south ridge of
Trisul I have also been
climbed. The west face was first ascended in 1976; this was the first
ascent of the main summit not using the first-ascent route.
Trisul II and III
Trisul II and
Trisul III were first climbed in 1960 by the Yugoslav
team JAHO I (sl). They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier,
achieving the summit of
Trisul II via the southern ridge and Trisul
III via the north ridge.
Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks
in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit.
Aleš Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team which climbed
Trisul in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver climbed
and was one of the paragliders.
Trisul massif can be accessed via the following route:
Kausani - Garur-
Gwaldam - Debal - Bagargad - Wan -
Bedini Bugyal -
Kalu Vinayak -
Roopkund - Trisul.
^ a b H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", American
Alpine Journal, 1985, p. 137.
^ Some sources give 7,172 m (23,530 ft).
^ "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan
(north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-28.
^ Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre
Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
^ This elevation is from the Himalayan Index. Some sources give
6,660 m (21,850 ft).
^ From the Himalayan Index.
^ a b Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost (1:150,000 scale topographic map), Swiss
Foundation for Alpine Research, 1992; based on maps by the Survey of
^ Mason, Kenneth (1955). Abode of the Snow. Rupert Hart-Davis.
p. 117. Reprinted 1987 by Diadem Books,
^ John B. West (May 2003). "George I. Finch and his pioneering use of
oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes". Journal of Applied
Physiology. 94 (5): 1702–1713. Quote: "The first use of
supplementary oxygen in the
Himalayas was apparently in 1907 when A.
L. Mumm, Tom Longstaff, and Charles Bruce went to the Garhwal and made
the first ascent of
Trisul (7,127 m), which remained the highest
summit to be climbed for 21 years."
This My Voyage by T. G. Longstaff.
Across Peaks and Passes of Kumaun
Himalayas by Harish Kapadia.
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