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Trisul
Trisul
(Hindi: त्रिसूल) is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, with the highest ( Trisul
Trisul
I) reaching 7120m. The three peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit, Trishula, trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the southwest corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. The main peak, Trisul
Trisul
I, was the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907.

Contents

1 Description of the massif and neighboring peaks 2 Climbing history

2.1 Trisul
Trisul
I 2.2 Trisul
Trisul
II and III

3 Trivia 4 Access 5 References 6 Other sources

Description of the massif and neighboring peaks[edit] The three peaks are named Trisul
Trisul
I, Trisul
Trisul
II, and Trisul
Trisul
III. The massif is a north-south ridge, with Trisul
Trisul
I at the north end and Trisul
Trisul
III at the south. The massif runs roughly North-South, and hence appears compressed when viewed from the south (Ranikhet, Kausani), and more stretched out from the Southeast (Chamoli, Bedini Bugyal). Nanda Ghunti
Nanda Ghunti
lies a few kilometers to the northwest, while Mrigthuni is just to the southeast.

Mountain Height (m) Height (ft) Coordinates Prominence (m) First ascent

Trisul
Trisul
I 7,120 23,359 30°18′46″N 79°46′38″E / 30.31278°N 79.77722°E / 30.31278; 79.77722 1616 1907

Trisul
Trisul
II 6,690[5] 21,949 30°17′24″N 79°46′12″E / 30.29000°N 79.77000°E / 30.29000; 79.77000[6] <200[7] 1960

Trisul
Trisul
III 6,007 19,708 30°15′00″N 79°46′12″E / 30.25000°N 79.77000°E / 30.25000; 79.77000 <200[7] 1960

Climbing history[edit] Trisul
Trisul
I[edit]

Trisul
Trisul
from Kausani, Uttarakhand

Sunrise on Trisul

T. G. Longstaff made the first climbing reconnaissance of Trisul, in September 1905, focussing on the western and southern sides. He returned in 1907 with two other Britons, three Alpine guides, and a number of Gurkhas. They ascended through the Rishiganga valley, to the north of the peak, onto the Trisul
Trisul
Glacier, which lies on the east side. From there they climbed the northeast flank to the north ridge, reaching the summit on 12 June. At the time Trisul
Trisul
was probably the highest mountain to have been climbed.[8] The climb was noted also for the first use of supplementary oxygen in a major climb.[9] During the 1950s Harold Williams led Indian Army expeditions to the summit. Routes on the west face and south ridge of Trisul
Trisul
I have also been climbed. The west face was first ascended in 1976; this was the first ascent of the main summit not using the first-ascent route. Trisul
Trisul
II and III[edit] Trisul
Trisul
II and Trisul
Trisul
III were first climbed in 1960 by the Yugoslav team JAHO I (sl). They climbed from the Bidalgwar glacier, achieving the summit of Trisul
Trisul
II via the southern ridge and Trisul III via the north ridge. Another Yugoslav expedition made the first traverse of the three peaks in 1987, and two members paraglided from the summit. Trivia[edit] Aleš Kunaver was a member of the first Yugoslav team which climbed Trisul
Trisul
in 1960. In 1987, his daughter Vlasta Kunaver climbed Trisul
Trisul
I and was one of the paragliders. Access[edit] The Trisul
Trisul
massif can be accessed via the following route: Almora
Almora
- Kausani
Kausani
- Garur- Gwaldam
Gwaldam
- Debal - Bagargad - Wan - Bedini Bugyal
Bedini Bugyal
- Kalu Vinayak - Roopkund
Roopkund
- Trisul. References[edit]

^ a b H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya", American Alpine Journal, 1985, p. 137. ^ Some sources give 7,172 m (23,530 ft). ^ "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Pakistan Himalaya
Himalaya
and India
India
Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-28.  ^ Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8. ^ This elevation is from the Himalayan Index. Some sources give 6,660 m (21,850 ft). ^ From the Himalayan Index. ^ a b Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost (1:150,000 scale topographic map), Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1992; based on maps by the Survey of India. ^ Mason, Kenneth (1955). Abode of the Snow. Rupert Hart-Davis. p. 117.  Reprinted 1987 by Diadem Books, ISBN 978-0-906371-91-6 ^ John B. West (May 2003). "George I. Finch and his pioneering use of oxygen for climbing at extreme altitudes". Journal of Applied Physiology. 94 (5): 1702–1713.  Quote: "The first use of supplementary oxygen in the Himalayas
Himalayas
was apparently in 1907 when A. L. Mumm, Tom Longstaff, and Charles Bruce went to the Garhwal and made the first ascent of Trisul
Trisul
(7,127 m), which remained the highest summit to be climbed for 21 years."

Other sources[edit]

This My Voyage by T. G. Longstaff. Across Peaks and Passes of Kumaun Himalayas
Himalayas
by Harish Kapadia.

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Trisul.

Authority control

WorldCat Identities VIAF: 240077206 GN

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