Siula Grande is a

mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited Summit (topography), summit area, and ...

in the

Huayhuash mountain range Huayhuash (possibly from Quechua ''waywash'', weasel'','' or ''waywashi'', squirrel) is a mountain range within the Andes of Peru, in the boundaries of the regions of Ancash, Lima and Huánuco.escale.minedu.gob.pe - UGEL map of the Cajatambo Pro ...

in the

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vian

Andes The Andes, Andes Mountains or Andean Mountains (; ) are the longest continental mountain range in the world, forming a continuous highland along the western edge of South America. The range is long, wide (widest between 18°S – 20°S ...

. It is high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, high. __NOTOC__

''Touching the Void'' ascent

In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose to descend the North Ridge, the route of the first ascent and descent in 1936. This was made almost impossible by severe weather which caused Simpson to fall and severely break his leg. All subsequent west face climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled down the face. Simpson and Yates's ascent was described in Simpson's book '' Touching the Void''. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003 and a

play Play most commonly refers to: * Play (activity), an activity done for enjoyment * Play (theatre), a work of drama Play may refer also to: Computers and technology * Google Play, a digital content service * Play Framework, a Java framework * Pla ...

in 2018.

First ascents list

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made. * 28 July 1936 ''North Ridge'' by and from Austria. * 21 June 1966 fourth ascent, by Obster, Schulz and Manfred Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico * 1983 West Face to North ridge, after retreating from the direct West face due to rockfall hazard. 2 bivies. David Fish Fulton and Scott Flavelle * 1985 ''West Face'' by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates * 16 June 1999 ''Avoiding the Touch'' by Mark Price and

Carlos Buhler Carlos Buhler (born October 17, 1954 in Harrison, New York) is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relative ...

. Their route followed the Yates/Simpson ascent until approximately the middle of the face, at which point they climbed a narrow, technical gully above the initial ice face and then surmounted a short wall up and left into the ice gully that led directly to the main summit (total of 24 pitches). * 13 July 2001 "Southern Discomfort", south face by Michel van der Spek, Jay Burbee, and Jeremy Frimer * 17 July 2001 ''Noches de "Juerga"'', west face * 3 July 2002 ''Northeast Face, Los Rapidos'' by

Slovenes The Slovenes, also known as Slovenians ( sl, Slovenci ), are a South Slavic ethnic group native to Slovenia, and adjacent regions in Italy, Austria and Hungary. Slovenes share a common ancestry, culture, history and speak Slovene as their n ...

Marjan Kovač and

Pavle Kozjek Pavle Kozjek (15 January 1959 – 25 August 2008) was a Slovenian mountaineering pioneer and a photographer. Kozjek was born in Setnica near Polhov Gradec, SR Slovenia, Yugoslavia. He was a member of the Ljubljana Matica Alpine Club. In 1997, h ...

* August 2002 ''Mammut Tracks'', west face, by

Rogier van Rijn Rogier may refer to: Given name Rogier is a Dutch masculine given name equivalent to Roger. People with this name include: * Rogier van Aerde, pseudonym of Adolf Josef Hubert Frans van Rijen (1917–2007), Dutch writer and journalist *Rogier Bli ...

and Eva Oomen

Siula Chico

Siula Chico is a

subpeak A summit is a point on a surface that is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. The topographic terms acme, apex, peak (mountain peak), and zenith are synonymous. The term (mountain top) is generally used only for a m ...

about high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately col. Mountaineers considered that the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so climbed by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition. Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in May 2007.

Glaciers

According to some researchers the glaciers between Siula Grande and Yerupaja show a broad increase in the number, size and frequency of

crevasses A crevasse is a deep crack, that forms in a glacier or ice sheet that can be a few inches across to over 40 feet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid pie ...

, and

bergschrund A bergschrund (from the German for ''mountain cleft'') or rimaye (from French; ) is a crevasse that forms where moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice or firn above. It is often a serious obstacle for mountaineers, who sometimes ab ...

s. As a result, climbing routes used in the 1970s are today considered impracticable.

''Touching the Void'' ascent

First ascents list

Siula Chico

Glaciers

References

Further reading