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Shot silk (also called changeant, changeable silk, changeable taffeta, cross-color, changeable fabric, or "dhoop chaon" ("sunshine shade")) is a
Anglo-Saxon Art, A New Perspective
'. Manchester University Press. pp. 145–150. . An argument has been made that shot silk was also described as ''purpura'' at this time, the Latin word mainly applied to purple although there are multiple references to ''purpura'' being red, green and black-and-red, as well as "varied". ''Purpura'' is also used to mean iridescence and the play of light, and contemporary descriptions exist indicating that the textile ''purpura'' was a type of silk distinct to other silks in assorted colours. It has also been suggested that
Shot silk (also called changeant, changeable silk, changeable taffeta, cross-color, changeable fabric, or "dhoop chaon" ("sunshine shade")) is a fabric
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not th ...
which is made up of silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
woven
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to on ...
from warp and weft
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is drawn ...
yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance. A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp, and shot silk colours can be described as " arp colour''shot with'' eft colour" The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.
History
A shot silkvestment
Vestments are liturgical garments and articles associated primarily with the Christian religion, especially by Eastern Churches, Catholics (of all rites), Anglicans, and Lutherans. Many other groups also make use of liturgical garments; this ...
of purple and yellow dating from about 698 is described in detail in a document written in about 1170, showing that the technique existed since at least the 7th century.Dodwell, C.R. (1982). Anglo-Saxon Art, A New Perspective
'. Manchester University Press. pp. 145–150. . An argument has been made that shot silk was also described as ''purpura'' at this time, the Latin word mainly applied to purple although there are multiple references to ''purpura'' being red, green and black-and-red, as well as "varied". ''Purpura'' is also used to mean iridescence and the play of light, and contemporary descriptions exist indicating that the textile ''purpura'' was a type of silk distinct to other silks in assorted colours. It has also been suggested that
illuminations
Illuminations may refer to:
Shows and festivals
* IllumiNations: Reflections of Earth, a nightly fireworks show currently at Epcot at Walt Disney World Resort
*'' IllumiNations'', original nightly firework show at Epcot at Walt Disney World Resor ...
in the Lindisfarne Gospels
The Lindisfarne Gospels (London, British Library Cotton MS Nero D.IV) is an illuminated manuscript gospel book probably produced around the years 715–720 in the monastery at Lindisfarne, off the coast of Northumberland, which is now in the B ...
of c.700 show garments of shot silk being worn by the Four Evangelists.
Shot silks were popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, including warp printing, where the warp was printed before weaving to create chiné or "Pompadour taffeta".
Current use
Shot silks are used today to makeneckties
A necktie, or simply a tie, is a piece of cloth worn for decorative purposes around the neck, resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat, and often draped down the chest.
Variants include the ascot, bow, bolo, zipper tie, crava ...
and other garments. Notably, some forms of academic dress use shot silks, such as those of the University of Wales
, latin_name =
, image =
, caption = Coat of Arms
, motto = cy, Goreu Awen Gwirionedd
, mottoeng = The Best Inspiration is Truth
, established =
,
, type = Confederal, non-member ...
and the University of Cambridge
The University of Cambridge is a public collegiate research university in Cambridge, England. Founded in 1209 and granted a royal charter by Henry III in 1231, Cambridge is the world's third oldest surviving university and one of its most pr ...
. For example, the robes of a Cambridge Doctor of Divinity are faced with "dove" silk, which is turquoise shot with rose-pink to create an overall grey effect.
See also
*Sharkskin
Sharkskin is a generic term used to describe a woven or warp-knitted fabric that imitates a shark's skin. The lines run from lower left to upper right on the face of the fabric . Sharkskin fabric in woven category varies with plain, basket ...
Notes
References
* {{Authority control Woven fabrics