Shell bead
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Shell jewelry is
jewelry Jewellery ( UK) or jewelry ( U.S.) consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment, such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and cufflinks. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a w ...
that is primarily made from seashells, the shells of marine
mollusk Mollusca is the second-largest phylum of invertebrate animals after the Arthropoda, the members of which are known as molluscs or mollusks (). Around 85,000  extant species of molluscs are recognized. The number of fossil species is e ...
s. Shell jewelry is a type of
shellcraft Shellcraft, also known as shell craft, is the craft of making decorative objects, or of decorating surfaces, using seashells. The craft includes the design and creation of small items such as shell jewelry and figurines made from shells; middle-s ...
. One very common form of shell jewelry is necklaces that are composed of large numbers of
bead A bead is a small, decorative object that is formed in a variety of shapes and sizes of a material such as stone, bone, shell, glass, plastic, wood, or pearl and with a small hole for threading or stringing. Beads range in size from under ...
s, where each individual bead is the whole (but often drilled)
shell Shell may refer to: Architecture and design * Shell (structure), a thin structure ** Concrete shell, a thin shell of concrete, usually with no interior columns or exterior buttresses ** Thin-shell structure Science Biology * Seashell, a hard o ...
of a small sea snail. Numerous other varieties of shell jewelry are made, including
bracelet A bracelet is an article of jewellery that is worn around the wrist. Bracelets may serve different uses, such as being worn as an ornament. When worn as ornaments, bracelets may have a supportive function to hold other items of decoration, suc ...
s and earrings. As well as sea snail shells, shell jewelry also sometimes uses the shells of clams ( bivalves) and tusk shells ( scaphopods). Occasionally shell jewelry is made from the shells of non-marine mollusks such as the shells of land snail

or the shells of freshwater mollusks. Not all shell jewelry is made from whole shells; some kinds are made from parts of shells, including the shell layer known as
mother of pearl Nacre ( , ), also known as mother of pearl, is an organicinorganic composite material produced by some molluscs as an inner shell layer; it is also the material of which pearls are composed. It is strong, resilient, and iridescent. Nacre is f ...
or nacre, and the "trapdoor" or operculum which is part of some sea snails. In recent times, inexpensive shell jewelry is often found at tropical beach destinations, where it is offered to tourists as informal wear, or as a
souvenir A souvenir (), memento, keepsake, or token of remembrance is an object a person acquires for the memories the owner associates with it. A souvenir can be any object that can be collected or purchased and transported home by the traveler as a m ...
. However, shell jewelry has a very ancient past, and is of great importance in archeology and
anthropology Anthropology is the scientific study of humanity, concerned with human behavior, human biology, cultures, societies, and linguistics, in both the present and past, including past human species. Social anthropology studies patterns of be ...
. In fact, shell beads are the oldest form of jewelry known, dating back over 100,000 years.


In prehistory

The oldest known jewelry in the world consists of two perforated beads made from shells of the sea snail '' Nassarius gibbosulus''. These beads were discovered at
Skhul Es-Skhul (es-Skhūl, ar, السخول; meaning ''kid'', ''young goat'') or the Skhul Cave is a prehistoric cave site situated about south of the city of Haifa, Israel, and about from the Mediterranean Sea. Together with the nearby sites of Ta ...
in Israel, and were recently dated to between 100,000 and 135,000 years ago. Similar ornaments (some made from shells of '' Nassarius kraussianus'' and the bittersweet clam '' Glycymeris nummaria'' as well as from ''Nassarius gibbosulus'') have been discovered at a number of Middle Paleolithic sites, and are considered a key piece of evidence for the theory that early
anatomically modern humans Early modern human (EMH) or anatomically modern human (AMH) are terms used to distinguish '' Homo sapiens'' (the only extant Hominina species) that are anatomically consistent with the range of phenotypes seen in contemporary humans from exti ...
in Africa and the Levant were more culturally sophisticated than had previously been thought. In some cases shells had been transported a considerable distance from the species' natural habitat. One example is the site of
Oued Djebbana Wadi ( ar, وَادِي, wādī), alternatively ''wād'' ( ar, وَاد), North African Arabic Oued, is the Arabic term traditionally referring to a valley. In some instances, it may refer to a wet (ephemeral) riverbed that contains water o ...
in Algeria, for example, where an ''N. gibbosulus'' bead was found; at the time the shell was used there, this site was at least 190 km away from the sea. Shell ornaments were very common during the
Upper Paleolithic The Upper Paleolithic (or Upper Palaeolithic) is the third and last subdivision of the Paleolithic or Old Stone Age. Very broadly, it dates to between 50,000 and 12,000 years ago (the beginning of the Holocene), according to some theories coin ...
, from 50–40,000 years ago onwards, when they spread with modern humans to Europe and Asia. They generally take the form of perforated shells (as well as other hard organic material such as
tooth A tooth ( : teeth) is a hard, calcified structure found in the jaws (or mouths) of many vertebrates and used to break down food. Some animals, particularly carnivores and omnivores, also use teeth to help with capturing or wounding prey, t ...
,
bone A bone is a rigid organ that constitutes part of the skeleton in most vertebrate animals. Bones protect the various other organs of the body, produce red and white blood cells, store minerals, provide structure and support for the body, ...
, antler and
mammoth A mammoth is any species of the extinct elephantid genus ''Mammuthus'', one of the many genera that make up the order of trunked mammals called proboscideans. The various species of mammoth were commonly equipped with long, curved tusks an ...
ivory) which are thought to have been suspended and used as jewelry. The most commonly found species are '' Homalopoma sanguineum'', '' Littorina obtusata'', ''
Cyclope ''Cyclope'' is a genus of sea snails, marine gastropod mollusks in the family Nassariidae, the Nassa mud snails or dog whelks. This genus has become a synonym of ''Tritia'' Risso, 1826 . Species ;Species brought into synonymy : * ''Cyclope do ...
'' species, '' Nassarius mutabilis'' and ''Nassarius gibbosulus''. Fossil shells were used alongside those of contemporary species. Some shells were stained with ochre. In Europe, the shells of both
Atlantic The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the " Old World" of Africa, Europe an ...
and
Mediterranean The Mediterranean Sea is a sea connected to the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by the Mediterranean Basin and almost completely enclosed by land: on the north by Western Europe, Western and Southern Europe and Anatolia, on the south by North Africa ...
species were used, again circulating over distances of hundreds of kilometers. During the
neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several p ...
period shell
necklaces A necklace is an article of jewellery that is worn around the neck. Necklaces may have been one of the earliest types of adornment worn by humans. They often serve ceremonial, religious, magical, or funerary purposes and are also used as symbol ...
were made with the shells of 3 genera
Spondylus ''Spondylus'' is a genus of bivalve molluscs, the only genus in the family Spondylidae.MolluscaBase (2019). MolluscaBase. Spondylus Linnaeus, 1758. Accessed through: World Register of Marine Species at: http://www.marinespecies.org/aphia.php?p=t ...
, Glycymeris and
Charonia ''Charonia'' is a genus of very large sea snail, commonly known as Triton's trumpet or Triton snail. They are marine gastropod mollusks in the monotypic family Charoniidae. Etymology The common name "Triton's trumpet" is derived from the Gr ...
.


See also

*
Heishe Heishe or heishi (pronounced "hee shee") are small disc- or tube-shaped beads made of organic shells or ground and polished stones. They come from the Kewa Pueblo people (formerly Santo Domingo Pueblo) of New Mexico, before the use of metals in jew ...
* Dentalium shell *
Wampum Wampum is a traditional shell bead of the Eastern Woodlands tribes of Native Americans. It includes white shell beads hand-fashioned from the North Atlantic channeled whelk shell and white and purple beads made from the quahog or Western Nor ...
* Shell gorget *
Puka shell Puka shells are naturally occurring bead-like objects which can be found on some beaches in Hawaii. Each one is the beach-worn apex of a cone snail shell, a kind of seashell from a sea snail. ''Puka'' is the Hawaiian word for "hole" and refers ...
*
Cameo (carving) Cameo () is a method of carving an object such as an engraved gem, item of jewellery or vessel. It nearly always features a raised (positive) relief image; contrast with intaglio, which has a negative image. Originally, and still in discussing ...


References


Abstract of a paper on Polynesian tree snail shells used in jewelry


Further reading

* Roger Neich, 2004 ''Pacific Jewelry and Adornment'', University of Hawaii Press, 189 pp. {{Jewellery Mollusc products Seashells in art