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Saraghrar () is the fourth highest independent peak in the
In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the northeast summit (). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson.
The year after, on August 24, 1959, the northeast peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini and including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, Carlo Alberto "''Betto''" Pinelli (the latter four reaching the top), Silvio Jovane, Franco Lamberti (expedition's doctor) and Enrico Leone, all members of the
Swiss expedition
led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the southeast summit () for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29). In 2021, Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and Bakar Gelashvili made the first ascent of Saraghrar Northwest on September 10th. The ascent was completed in alpine style over 8 days, via the unclimbed NW face from the Rosh Gol valley, and won them the 2022
Terichmir, Highest Peak in Hindukush
Mountains of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Mountains of Pakistan Mountains of the Hindu Kush Seven-thousanders of the Hindu Kush
Hindu Kush
The Hindu Kush is an mountain range in Central and South Asia to the west of the Himalayas. It stretches from central and western Afghanistan, Quote: "The Hindu Kush mountains run along the Afghan border with the North-West Frontier Province ...
. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around , lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are: NE summit (), northwest summit (), southwest summit (), south summit () and southeast summit ().
Climbing history
In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the northeast summit (). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson.
The year after, on August 24, 1959, the northeast peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini and including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, Carlo Alberto "''Betto''" Pinelli (the latter four reaching the top), Silvio Jovane, Franco Lamberti (expedition's doctor) and Enrico Leone, all members of the Italian Alpine Club
The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment.
It was founded in Turin in 1863 by the then finan ...
(Rome
, established_title = Founded
, established_date = 753 BC
, founder = King Romulus (legendary)
, image_map = Map of comune of Rome (metropolitan city of Capital Rome, region Lazio, Italy).svg
, map_caption ...
section). They ascended via the Niroghi glacier on the northeast of the massif.
On August 24, 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summitted the SW peak for the first time on July 29.
Three Catalan expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the Northwest summit (7,300 m (23,950ft)) via Southwest pillar from the Rosh Gol valley. On August 9, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the northwest II summit ().
In 2005, five members of Swiss expedition
led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the southeast summit () for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29). In 2021, Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, and Bakar Gelashvili made the first ascent of Saraghrar Northwest on September 10th. The ascent was completed in alpine style over 8 days, via the unclimbed NW face from the Rosh Gol valley, and won them the 2022
Piolet d'Or
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow, ice, or frozen conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking ...
.
See also
* List of highest mountains of the world *List of mountains in Pakistan
Pakistan is home to 108 peaks above 7,000 metres and 4555 above 6,000 m. There is no count of the peaks above 5,000 and 4,000 m. Five of the 14 highest independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) are in Pakistan (four of which lie in ...
References
3.https://agenda.ge/en/news/2021/2647Sources
* Paropamiso (by Fosco Maraini, 2003) (Mondadori, Milano, Italy) {{ISBN, 88-04-51209-1 * Chitral Tour Guide Book (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 2004) * Hindu Kush Study Series (2 Volumes) (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 1994/1997) (Rehmat Printing Press, Peshawar, Pakistan)External links
Terichmir, Highest Peak in Hindukush
Mountains of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Mountains of Pakistan Mountains of the Hindu Kush Seven-thousanders of the Hindu Kush