Samarra ( ar|سَامَرَّاء, ') is a city in
Iraq. It stands on the east bank of the
Tigris in the
Saladin Governorate, north of
Baghdad. In 2003 the city had an estimated population of 348,700. During the
Iraqi Civil War, Samarra was in the "
Sunni Triangle" of violence.
In the
medieval times, Samarra was the
capital of the
Abbasid Caliphate and is the only remaining Islamic capital that retains its original plan, architecture and artistic relics. In 2007,
UNESCO named Samarra one of its
World Heritage Sites.
History
Ancient Samarra
The remains of
prehistoric Samarra were first excavated between 1911 and 1914 by the German archaeologist
Ernst Herzfeld. Samarra became the
type site for the
Samarra culture. Since 1946, the notebooks, letters, unpublished excavation reports and photographs have been in the
Freer Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.
The civilization flourished alongside the
Ubaid period, as one of the first town states in the
Near East. It lasted from 5,500 BCE and eventually collapsed in 3,900 BCE.
A city of Sur-marrati (refounded by
Sennacherib in 690 BC according to a
stele in the
Walters Art Museum) is insecurely identified with a fortified
Assyrian site of Assyrian at al-Huwaysh on the Tigris opposite modern Samarra. The State Archives of Assyria Online identifies ''Surimarrat'' as the modern site of Samarra.
Ancient place names for Samarra noted by the Samarra Archaeological Survey are Greek ''Souma'' (
Ptolemy V.19,
Zosimus III, 30), Latin ''Sumere'', a fort mentioned during the
retreat of the army of Julian in 363 AD (
Ammianus Marcellinus XXV, 6, 4), and Syriac ''Sumra'' (Hoffmann, ''Auszüge'', 188;
Michael the Syrian, III, 88), described as a village.
The possibility of a larger population was offered by the opening of the Qatul al-Kisrawi, the northern extension of the
Nahrawan Canal which drew water from the
Tigris in the region of Samarra, attributed by
Yaqut al-Hamawi (''Muʿjam'', see under "Qatul") to
Khosrau I (531–578). To celebrate the completion of this project, a commemorative tower (modern Burj al-Qa'im) was built at the southern inlet south of Samarra, and a palace with a "paradise" or walled hunting park was constructed at the northern inlet (modern Nahr ar-Rasasi) near
ad-Dawr. A supplementary canal, the Qatul Abi al-Jund, excavated by the
Abbasid Caliph Harun al-Rashid, was commemorated by a planned city laid out in the form of a regular octagon (modern Husn al-Qadisiyya), called al-Mubarak and abandoned unfinished in 796.
Image:Female Statuette Halaf Culture 6000-5100 BCE.jpg|Female statuette, Samarra, 6000 BC
File:Samarra bowl.jpg|The Samarra bowl at the Pergamon Museum, Berlin. The swastika in the center of the design is a reconstruction.
File:Chinese sancai sherd 9th 10th century found in Samarra.jpg|Chinese-made sancai pottery shard, 9th–10th century, found in Samarra, an example of Chinese influences on Islamic pottery. British Museum.
Abbasid capital
In 836
CE, the
Abbasid Caliph Al-Mu'tasim founded a new capital at the banks of the Tigris. Here he built extensive palace complexes surrounded by garrison settlements for his guards, mostly drawn from
Central Asia and
Iran (most famously the
Turks, as well as the Khurasani ''
Ishtakhaniyya'', ''
Faraghina'' and ''
Ushrusaniyya'' regiments) or North Africa (like the ''
Maghariba''). Although quite often called
Mamluk slave soldiers, their status was quite elevated; some of their commanders bore Sogdian titles of nobility.
The city was further developed under Caliph
al-Mutawakkil, who sponsored the construction of lavish palace complexes, such as al-Mutawakkiliyya, and the
Great Mosque of Samarra with its famous spiral
minaret or Malwiya, built in 847. For his son
al-Mu'tazz he built the large palace Bulkuwara.
Samarra remained the residence of the caliph until 892, when
al-Mu'tadid eventually returned to Baghdad. The city declined but maintained a mint until the early 10th century.
The Nestorian patriarch
Sargis (860–72) moved the patriarchal seat of the
Church of the East from Baghdad to Samarra, and one or two of his immediate successors may also have sat in Samarra so as to be close to the seat of power.
During the long decline of the Abbasid empire, Samarra was largely abandoned starting in AD 940. Its population returned to Baghdad and the city rapidly declined. Its field of ruins is the only world metropolis of late antiquity which is available for serious archaeology.
Religious significance

The city is also home to
al-Askari Shrine, containing the mausolea of the
Imams
Ali al-Hadi and
Hasan al-Askari, the tenth and eleventh
Shiʿi Imams, respectively, as well as the place from where
Muhammad al-Mahdi, known as the "Hidden Imam", reportedly went into
The Occultation in the belief of the
Twelver or
Shias. This has made it an important pilgrimage centre for the Imami Shias. In addition, Hakimah and
Narjis, female relatives of the Prophet
Muhammad and the Imams, held in high esteem by Muslims, are buried there, making this mosque one of the most significant sites of worship.
Modern era
In the eighteenth century, one of the most violent battles of the 1730–1735
Ottoman–Persian War, the
Battle of Samarra, took place, where over 50,000 Turks and Persians became casualties. The engagement decided the fate of Ottoman Iraq and kept it under Istanbul's suzerainty until the First World War.
During the 20th century, Samarra gained new importance when a permanent lake,
Lake Tharthar, was created through the construction of the
Samarra Barrage, which was built in order to prevent the frequent flooding of Baghdad. Many local people were displaced by the dam, resulting in an increase in Samarra's population.
Samarra is a key city in Saladin Governorate, a major part of the so-called
Sunni Triangle where insurgents were active during the
Iraq War.
Though Samarra is famous for its Shi'i holy sites, including the tombs of several Shi'i Imams, the town was traditionally and until very recently, dominated by Sunni Arabs. Tensions arose between Sunnis and the Shi'a during the Iraq War. On February 22, 2006, the golden dome of the
al-Askari Mosque was
bombed, setting off a period of rioting and reprisal attacks across the country which claimed hundreds of lives. No organization claimed responsibility for the bombing. On June 13, 2007, insurgents
attacked the mosque again and destroyed the two
minarets that flanked the dome's ruins.
On July 12, 2007, the clock tower was blown up. No fatalities were reported. Shiʿi cleric
Muqtada al-Sadr called for peaceful demonstrations and three days of mourning.
He stated that he believed no Sunni
Arab could have been behind the attack, though according to the ''New York Times'' the attackers were likely Sunnis linked to Al-Qaeda.
The mosque compound and minarets had been closed since the 2006 bombing. An indefinite curfew was placed on the city by the Iraqi police.
Ever since the end of Iraqi civil war in 2007, the Shia population of the holy city has increased exponentially. However, violence has continued, with bombings taking place in
2011 and
2013. In June 2014, the city was attacked by the
Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant (ISIL) as part of the
Northern Iraq offensive. ISIL forces captured the municipality building and university, but were later repulsed.
Geography
Climate
Samarra has a
hot desert climate (
Köppen climate classification ''BWh''). Most rain falls in the winter. The average annual temperature in Samarra is . About of precipitation falls annually.
In popular culture
The metaphor of "Having an appointment in Samarra", signifying death, is a literary reference to an ancient Babylonian myth recorded in the
Babylonian Talmud and transcribed by
W. Somerset Maugham, in which Death narrates a man's futile attempt to escape him by fleeing from Baghdad to Samarra. The story "The Appointment in Samarra" subsequently formed the germ of a
novel of the same name by
John O'Hara.
[John O'Hara, ''Appointment in Samarra'', Harcourt, Brace & Co., . L., "The Destined Hour" in ''From Many Times and Lands'' (London, 1953); reprinted in ''Every Poem Tells a Story: A Collection of Stories in Verse'', ed. Raymond Wilson (London, 1988; / 0-670-82086-5).] The story is told in "
The Six Thatchers", a 2017 episode of ''
Sherlock''.
See also
*
List of places in Iraq
References
Selected bibliography
* De la Vaissière, Étienne (2007): ''Samarcande et Samarra. Élites d’Asie central dans l’empire abbaside'' (Studia Iranica, Cahier 35), Paris.
*
* Northedge, Alastair (2005): ''The historical topography of Samarra'', London.
* Robinson, Chase (ed.) (2001): ''A Medieval Islamic City Reconsidered: An Interdisciplinary Approach to Samarra'' (Oxford Studies in Islamic Art 14). Oxford.
External links
Ernst Herzfeld Papers, Series 7: Records of Samarra Expeditions, 1906–1945Smithsonian Institution, Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery Archives, Washington, D.C.
Ernst Herzfeld Papers, Series 7: Records of Samarra Expeditions, 1906–1945Collections Search Center, S.I.R.I.S., Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.
Destruction of Askari MosqueSamarra on Google Earth
{{Authority control
Category:Arabic architecture
Category:Archaeological sites in Iraq
Category:Archaeological type sites
Category:Capitals of caliphates
Category:Cities in Iraq
Category:District capitals of Iraq
Category:Holy cities
Category:Levant
Category:Populated places in Saladin Governorate
Category:Populated places on the Tigris River
Category:Samarra culture
Category:Shia holy cities
Category:World Heritage Sites in Danger
Category:World Heritage Sites in Iraq