Petits Propos Culinaires
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''Petits Propos Culinaires'' (PPC) is a journal covering the history of food and cookery.


History and content

Founded by Jane and Alan Davidson in 1979 and first published in 1980, ''Petits Propos Culinaires'' is edited by
Tom Jaine Tom Jaine (born 4 June 1943) is a former restaurateur, a food writer and until recently the publisher of Prospect Books. He was educated at Kingswood School (1955–1959) and at Balliol College, Oxford where he studied Modern history (1961–196 ...
and published by Prospect Books. The frequency of publication, three times a year, has not varied; nor has the format. Davidson was editor of the ''
Oxford Companion to Food ''The Oxford Companion to Food'' is an encyclopedia about food. It was edited by Alan Davidson and published by Oxford University Press in 1999. It was also issued in softcover under the name ''The Penguin Companion to Food''. The second and th ...
'', which frequently cites PPC. The journal has its origins in the writings of the food author
Richard Olney Richard Olney (September 15, 1835 – April 8, 1917) was an American statesman. He served as United States Attorney General in the cabinet of Grover Cleveland and Secretary of State under Cleveland. As attorney general, Olney used injunct ...
. In 1979 he was engaged in compiling a huge multi-part cookery book which the publisher insisted must not include any recipes that had not already been published.Davidson and Saberi, p. 437 and dust-jacket note As Olney had some original, unpublished recipes that he was determined to include, he agreed with Davidson and the latter's wife, Jane – also a food writer – to contribute recipes pseudonymously to a new journal that they would launch. They secured the help of Britain's leading food writer,
Elizabeth David Elizabeth David CBE (born Elizabeth Gwynne, 26 December 1913 – 22 May 1992) was a British cookery writer. In the mid-20th century she strongly influenced the revitalisation of home cookery in her native country and beyond with articles and bo ...
, and began publication. Among the contributors in the early years were David,
Claudia Roden Claudia Roden (née Douek; born 1936) is an Egyptian-born British cookbook writer and cultural anthropologist of Sephardi/ Mizrahi descent. She is best known as the author of Middle Eastern cookbooks including ''A Book of Middle Eastern Food'' ...
,
Jane Grigson Jane Grigson (born Heather Mabel Jane McIntire; 13 March 1928 – 12 March 1990) was an English cookery writer. In the latter part of the 20th century she was the author of the food column for ''The Observer'' and wrote numerous books about Eu ...
,
Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz (17 June 1915 – 27 October 2003) was a British food writer who popularized Latin American cuisine in the United States and the United Kingdom. Initially a writer of poetry and fiction, she began working in the culina ...
,
Harold McGee Harold James McGee (born October 3, 1951) is an American author who writes about the chemistry and history of food science and cooking. He is best known for his seminal book '' On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen'' first pu ...
and Olney, under his own name and also as "Nathan D'Aulnay" and "Tante Ursule". In 2002
Ten Speed Press Ten Speed Press is a publishing house founded in Berkeley, California in 1971 by Phil Wood. Ten Speed Press was bought by Random House in February 2009 and is now part of their Crown Publishing Group division. History Wood worked with Barnes & ...
published a selection of articles from the first two decades of PPC, under the title ''The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing from the Journal "Petits Propos Culinaires".'' Charles Perry of ''
The Los Angeles Times ''The'' () is a grammatical article in English, denoting persons or things already mentioned, under discussion, implied or otherwise presumed familiar to listeners, readers, or speakers. It is the definite article in English. ''The'' is the ...
'' wrote: :For two decades, ''Petits Propos Culinaires'' has offered a home to any sort of food writing that's out of the ordinary and passionately researched; an air of gentle, amusable monomania hangs about this tiny magazine. Its only shortcoming is that it has been so very petite—you don't find it on the average newsstand. Here is a chance for those who have never subscribed to sample what has been going on between its covers. A memoir of Davidson was printed in the 100th issue of PPC in 2014. In ''
The Daily Telegraph ''The Daily Telegraph'', known online and elsewhere as ''The Telegraph'', is a national British daily broadsheet newspaper published in London by Telegraph Media Group and distributed across the United Kingdom and internationally. It was f ...
'', Bee Wilson commented "It's a miracle that PPC has survived all these years, given the parlous state of independent publishing. ... PPC endures, despite having a weird title and devoting its pages to some pretty out-of-the-way food history."Wilson, Bee
"The Kitchen Thinker: Alan Davidson's Petits Propos Culinaires: Celebrating the 100th issue of Alan Davidson's journal of 'little culinary matters'"
''The Daily Telegraph'', 9 May 2014
Wilson continues, "PPC stands for Petits Propos Culinaires, which translates as "little culinary matters". The French title was one of Alan's many jokes." She adds that despite the French title the magazine is deeply British, "with articles on such questions as the origin of
stilton Stilton is a village and civil parish in Cambridgeshire, England, about north of Huntingdon in Huntingdonshire, which is a non-metropolitan district of Cambridgeshire as well as a historic county of England. History There is evidence of Neo ...
, the history of
Chelsea bun The Chelsea bun is a type of currant bun that was first baked in the 18th century at the Bun House in Chelsea, an establishment favoured by Hanoverian royalty accustomed to similar pastries in their native cuisine. The shop was demolished in 18 ...
s or how "elevenses" started". The journal was cited in 2015 when it printed an article which said that Cornish pasties were invented in London. Further controversy was sparked in 2016, when an article rebutted the supposedly French origins of the Canadian dish cipaille, tracing them instead to barges on the Yorkshire canals in 18th-century England.Edmiston, Jake
"Quebec's secret meat pie"
''National Post'', 2 September 2016


Notes


Sources

* Davidson, Alan (1999) ''Oxford Companion to Food''; illustrations by Soun Vannithone. London: Oxford University Press . 2nd ed. edited by Tom Jaine; consultant editor: Jane Davidson; research director: Helen Saberi 2006 * Davidson, Alan & Saberi, Helen, eds. (2002)
The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing from the Journal "Petits Propos Culinaires"
' Ten Speed Press


External links

*{{Official website, https://prospectbooks.co.uk/ppc-petits-propos-culinaires/

by Russell Harris Food and drink magazines History magazines published in the United Kingdom Magazines established in 1980 Triannual magazines published in the United Kingdom