Pak Pattan
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Pakpattan ( Punjabi and ), often referred to as Pākpattan Sharīf (; ''"Noble Pakpattan"''), is the capital city of the
Pakpattan District Pakpattan District (Urdu and pnb, ), is a district of Punjab province in Pakistan, Pakpattan is the district capital. According to the 1998 census of Pakistan, it had a population of 1,286,680 of which 14% were urban. It has since risen to 1, ...
, located in
Punjab Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising a ...
province of
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 243 million people, and has the world's second-lar ...
. It is the 48th largest city of Pakistan by population according to the 2017 census. . Pakpattan is the seat of Pakistan's ''Chisti'' order of Sufism, and is a major pilgrimage destination on account of the shrine of Fariduddin Ganjshakar, the renowned Punjabi poet and Sufi saint commonly referred to as
Baba Farid Farīd al-Dīn Masʿūd Ganj-i-Shakar ( ; – 7 May 1266) was a 13th-century Punjabi Sunni Muslim preacher and mystic, who was one of the most revered and distinguished Muslim mystics of the medieval period. He is known reverentially as B ...
. The annual ''
urs Urs (from ''‘Urs'') or ''Urus'' (literal meaning wedding), is the death anniversary of a Sufi saint, usually held at the saint's dargah (shrine or tomb). In most Sufi orders such as Naqshbandiyyah, Suhrawardiyya, Chishtiyya, Qadiriyya, etc ...
'' fair in his honour draws an estimated 2 million visitors to the town.


Etymology

Pakpattan was known as ''Ajodhan'' until the 16th century. The city now derives its name from the combination of two Punjabi/Urdu words, ''Pak'' and ''Pattan'', meaning "pure," and "dock" respectively, which reference a ferry across the Sutlej River that was popular with pilgrims to the
Shrine of Baba Farid The Shrine of Baba Farid ( Punjabi and ur, بابا فرید درگاہ) is a 13th-century Sufi shrine located in Pakpattan, Pakistan, that is dedicated to the Sufi mystic Fariduddin Ganjshakar, popularly known as Baba Farid. The shrine is one ...
, and represented a metaphorical journey of salvation across the river in a boat piloted by the saint's spirit.


History


Early

Pakpattan was founded as a village by the name of ''Ajodhan''. Ajodhan was the location of a ferry service across the Sutlej River that rendered it an important part of the ancient trade routes that connected
Multan Multan (; ) is a city in Punjab, Pakistan, on the bank of the Chenab River. Multan is Pakistan's seventh largest city as per the 2017 census, and the major cultural, religious and economic centre of southern Punjab. Multan is one of the old ...
to
Delhi Delhi, officially the National Capital Territory (NCT) of Delhi, is a city and a union territory of India containing New Delhi, the capital of India. Straddling the Yamuna river, primarily its western or right bank, Delhi shares borders ...
. Given its position on the flat plains of
Punjab Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising a ...
, Ajodhan was vulnerable to waves of invasions from Central Asia that began in the late 10th century. It was captured by Sebüktegin in 977–78 CE and by Ibrahim Ghaznavi in 1079–80.Pakpattan - Imperial Gazetteer of India, v. 19, p. 332
/ref>


Medieval

Turkish settlers also arrived in the region as a result of pressures from the expanding Mongol Empire, and so Ajodhan already had a mosque and Muslim community by the time of the arrival of
Baba Farid Farīd al-Dīn Masʿūd Ganj-i-Shakar ( ; – 7 May 1266) was a 13th-century Punjabi Sunni Muslim preacher and mystic, who was one of the most revered and distinguished Muslim mystics of the medieval period. He is known reverentially as B ...
, who migrated to the town from his native village of Kothewal near
Multan Multan (; ) is a city in Punjab, Pakistan, on the bank of the Chenab River. Multan is Pakistan's seventh largest city as per the 2017 census, and the major cultural, religious and economic centre of southern Punjab. Multan is one of the old ...
around 1195. Despite his presence, Ajodhan remained a small town until after his death, although it was prosperous given its position on trade routes. Baba Farid's establishment of a ''Jama Khana'', or convent, in the town where his devotees would gather for religious instruction is seen as a process of the region's shift away from a
Hindu Hindus (; ) are people who religiously adhere to Hinduism. Jeffery D. Long (2007), A Vision for Hinduism, IB Tauris, , pages 35–37 Historically, the term has also been used as a geographical, cultural, and later religious identifier for ...
orientation to a Muslim one. Large masses of the town's citizenry were noted to gather at the shrine daily in hopes of securing written blessings and amulets from the convent. Upon Baba Farid's death in 1265, a shrine was constructed that eventually contained a mosque, ''langar'', and several other related buildings. The shrine was among the first Islamic holy sites in
South Asia South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical Geography (from Greek: , ''geographia''. Combination of Greek words ‘Geo’ (The Earth) and ‘Graphien’ (to describe), literally "earth descr ...
. The shrine later served to elevate the town as a centre of pilgrimage within the wider Islamic world. In keeping with Sufi tradition in
Punjab Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising a ...
, the shrine maintains influence over smaller shrines throughout the region around Pakpattan that are dedicated to specific events in
Baba Farid Farīd al-Dīn Masʿūd Ganj-i-Shakar ( ; – 7 May 1266) was a 13th-century Punjabi Sunni Muslim preacher and mystic, who was one of the most revered and distinguished Muslim mystics of the medieval period. He is known reverentially as B ...
's life. These secondary shrines form a ''wilayat'', or a "spiritual territory" of the Pakpattan shrine. The Arab explorer Ibn Battuta visited the town in 1334, and paid obeisance at its shrine. The town was besieged by Shaikha Khokhar, in 1394.
Tamerlane Timur ; chg, ''Aqsaq Temür'', 'Timur the Lame') or as ''Sahib-i-Qiran'' ( 'Lord of the Auspicious Conjunction'), his epithet. ( chg, ''Temür'', 'Iron'; 9 April 133617–19 February 1405), later Timūr Gurkānī ( chg, ''Temür Kür ...
visited Pakpattan's shrine in 1398 in order to pray for increased strength, and spared the town's inhabitants that had not fled his advance, out of respect for the shrine of the saint Baba Farid.
Khizr Khan Khizr Khan (reigned 28 May 1414 – 20 May 1421) was the founder of the Sayyid dynasty, the ruling dynasty of the Delhi sultanate, in northern India soon after the invasion of Timur and the fall of the Tughlaq dynasty. Khan was Governor of Mult ...
defeated the armies of Firuz Shah Tughlaq of the Delhi Sultanate in battles outside of Pakpattan in 1401 and 1405.


Mughal

The town continued to grow as the reputation and influence of the Baba Farid shrine spread, but was also bolstered by its privileged position along the
Multan Multan (; ) is a city in Punjab, Pakistan, on the bank of the Chenab River. Multan is Pakistan's seventh largest city as per the 2017 census, and the major cultural, religious and economic centre of southern Punjab. Multan is one of the old ...
to
Delhi Delhi, officially the National Capital Territory (NCT) of Delhi, is a city and a union territory of India containing New Delhi, the capital of India. Straddling the Yamuna river, primarily its western or right bank, Delhi shares borders ...
trade route. The shrine's importance began to outweigh that of Ajodhan itself, and the town was subsequently renamed "Pakpattan" in honour of a ferry service over the Sutlej River. The founder of Sikhism,
Guru Nanak Gurū Nānak (15 April 1469 – 22 September 1539; Gurmukhi: ਗੁਰੂ ਨਾਨਕ; pronunciation: , ), also referred to as ('father Nānak'), was the founder of Sikhism and is the first of the ten Sikh Gurus. His birth is celebrated w ...
, visited the town in the early 1500s to collect compositions of Baba Farid's poetry. The shrine was extended royal patronage from the Mughal court, while Emperor Shah Jahan in 1692 bestowed royal support for the shrine's ''Diwan'' chief and descendants of Baba Farid, who eventually formed a class of landowners known as the ''Chistis''. The shrine and ''Chistis'' were defended by an army of devotees drawn from local
Jat The Jat people ((), ()) are a traditionally agricultural community in Northern India and Pakistan. Originally pastoralists in the lower Indus river-valley of Sindh, Jats migrated north into the Punjab region in late medieval times, and su ...
clans.


Pakpattan ''Chishti'' State

Following the disintegration of the Mughal Empire, the shrine's ''Diwan'' was able to forge a political independent state centred on Pakpattan. In 1757, the territory of the Pakpattan state was extended across the Sutlej River after the shrine's head raised an army against the Raja of
Bikaner Bikaner () is a city in the northwest of the state of Rajasthan, India. It is located northwest of the state capital, Jaipur. Bikaner city is the administrative headquarters of Bikaner District and Bikaner division. Formerly the capital of ...
. The shrine's army was able to repel a 1776 attack by the Sikh
Nakai Misl The Nakai Misl ( pa, ਨਕਈ ਮਿਸਲ (Gurmukhi), (Shahmukhi)), founded by Sandhu Jats, was one of the twelve Sikh Misls that later became the Sikh Empire. It held territory between the Ravi and Sutlej rivers southwest of Lahore in what ...
state, resulting in the death of the Nakai leader,
Heera Singh Sandhu Sardar Heera Singh Sandhu (1706–1776) was the founder of Nakai Misl, one of the twelve Sikh Misls that later became the Sikh Empire under the leadership of Ranjit Singh. Heera Singh Sandhu was killed in battle near Pakpattan whe ...
.


Sikh

Maharaja Ranjit Singh of the
Sikh Empire The Sikh Empire was a state originating in the Indian subcontinent, formed under the leadership of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who established an empire based in the Punjab. The empire existed from 1799, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh captured Lahor ...
seized the city in 1810, removing the political autonomy of the Baba Farid shrine's chief. He did, however, bestow the shrine with an annual ''nazrana'' allowance of 9,000 rupees, and granted tracts of land to his descendants. By patronizing the shrine, Ranjit Singh increased his legitimacy of a non-Muslim ruler, and helped spread his influence through the network of smaller shrine through the Pakpattan shrine's spiritual ''wilayat'' territory.


British

Following the establishment of British rule in Punjab after defeating the Sikh Empire, Pakpattan in 1849 was made district headquarters, before it was shifted in 1852, and finally to Montgomery (now Sahiwal) in 1856. The Pakpattan Municipal Council was established in 1868, and the population in 1901 was 6,192. Income in the era chiefly derived from transit fees. Between the 1890s and 1920s, the British laid a vast network of canals in region around Pakpattan, and throughout much of central and southern Punjab province, leading to the establishment of dozens of new villages around Pakpattan. In 1910, the Lodhran–Khanewal Branch Line was laid, making Pakpattan an important stop before the railway was dismantled and shipped to
Iraq Iraq,; ku, عێراق, translit=Êraq officially the Republic of Iraq, '; ku, کۆماری عێراق, translit=Komarî Êraq is a country in Western Asia. It is bordered by Turkey to the north, Iran to the east, the Persian Gulf and K ...
. In the 1940s, Pakpattan became a centre for
Muslim League Muslim League may refer to: Political parties Subcontinent ; British India *All-India Muslim League, Mohammed Ali Jinah, led the demand for the partition of India resulting in the creation of Pakistan. **Punjab Muslim League, a branch of the organ ...
politics, as the shrine granted the League privileges to address crows at the urs fair in 1945 - a favour not granted to pro-Unionist parties. The shrine's ''sajjada nasheen'' caretakers further refused to sign an anti-Partition manifesto brought to them by pro-Unionists.


Modern

Pakpattan's demography was radically altered by the
Partition of British India The Partition of British India in 1947 was the change of political borders and the division of other assets that accompanied the dissolution of the British Raj in South Asia and the creation of two independent dominions: India and Pakistan. T ...
, with the vast majority of its Sikh and Hindu residents migrating to India. Several ''Chisti'' scholars and notable families also settled in the city, having fled from regions that were allocated to India. Pakpattan thus increased in importance as a religious centre, and witnessed the development of ''pir-muridi'' shrine culture. The influence of the shrine's caretakers grew as ''Chistis'' and their devotees congregated in the city to such a degree that the shrine caretakers are regarded as "kingmakers" for local and regional politics. Pakpattan's shrine continued to grow in influence as Pakistani Muslims found it increasingly difficult to visit other ''Chisti'' shrines that now lay in India, while Sikhs in India commemorate Baba Farid's urs ''in absentia'' at Amritsar. Pakpattan continues to be a major pilgrimage centre, drawing up to 2 million annual visitors its large ''urs'' festival.


Geography

Pakpattan is located about 205 km from
Multan Multan (; ) is a city in Punjab, Pakistan, on the bank of the Chenab River. Multan is Pakistan's seventh largest city as per the 2017 census, and the major cultural, religious and economic centre of southern Punjab. Multan is one of the old ...
. Pakpattan is located roughly from the border with
India India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, and the most populous democracy in the world. Bounded by the Indian Ocean on the so ...
, and by road southwest of
Lahore Lahore ( ; pnb, ; ur, ) is the second most populous city in Pakistan after Karachi and 26th most populous city in the world, with a population of over 13 million. It is the capital of the province of Punjab where it is the largest city ...
. The district is bounded to the northwest by
Sahiwal District Sahiwal District ( Punjabi and ur, ), formerly known as Montgomery district, is a district in the Punjab province of Pakistan. In 1998, it had a population of 1,843,194 people, 16.27% of which were in urban areas. Since 2008, Sahiwal District, ...
, to the north by
Okara District Okara District (Punjabi and ur, ), is a district of Punjab, Pakistan. It became a separate district in 1982, prior to that it was part of Sahiwal District.Sutlej River and
Bahawalnagar District Bahawalnagar District (Urdu and pa, ), is a district of Punjab province in Pakistan. Before the independence of Pakistan, Bahawalnagar was part of Bahawalpur state governed by the Nawab of Bahawalpur. The city of Bahawalnagar is the capital ...
, and to the southwest by Vehari District.


Demographics

According to the 1998 Pakistan Census, the population of Pakpattan city was recorded as 109,033. As per
2017 Census of Pakistan The 2017 Census of Pakistan was a detailed enumeration of the Pakistani population which began on 15 March 2017 and ended on 25 May 2017. It was the first census taken in the country in the 21st century, nineteen years after the previous one in ...
, the population of city was recorded as 176,693 with an increase of 62.05% in just 19 years.


Language

Punjabi is the native spoken language but
Urdu Urdu (;"Urdu"
'' Haryanvi Haryanvi ( ' or '), also known as Bangru, is an Indo-Aryan language spoken in the state of Haryana in India, and to a lesser extent in Delhi. Haryanvi is considered to be part of the dialect group of Western Hindi, which also includes Kharib ...
also called Rangari is spoken among
Ranghar Ranghar are a community of Muslim Rajputs in the Indian states of Haryana, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Delhi and Uttar Pradesh; and in Sindh (Muhajirs) and Punjab in Pakistan. History and origin The Ranghar were classified as an "agricultura ...
s . Meo have their own language which is called
Mewati Mewati (Devanagri:मेवाती; Perso-Arabic:میواتی) is an Indo-Aryan language spoken by about three million speakers in the Mewat Region (Alwar and Bharatpur, districts of Rajasthan, Nuh district of Haryana). While other people ...
.


Famous Food

Tosha is a special sweet which was produced first in Pakpattan. It is also sold in India as a delicacy originally made in Pakpattan.


Shrine of Baba Farid

The
Shrine of Baba Farid The Shrine of Baba Farid ( Punjabi and ur, بابا فرید درگاہ) is a 13th-century Sufi shrine located in Pakpattan, Pakistan, that is dedicated to the Sufi mystic Fariduddin Ganjshakar, popularly known as Baba Farid. The shrine is one ...
is one of Pakistan's most revered shrines. Built in the town that was known in medieval times as ''Ajodhan'', the old town's importance was eclipsed by that of the shrine, as evidenced by its renaming to "Pakpattan," meaning "Holy Ferry" - referencing a river crossing made by pilgrims to the shrine. The shrine has since been a key factor shaping Pakpattan's economy, and the city's politics.


Other Shrines in Pakpatan

*Darbar Hazrat Khawaja Aziz Makki Sarkar *Khawaja Amoor ul Hasan


References

{{Authority control Populated places in Pakpattan District Punjab