Myrtle Allen
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Myrtle Allen (13 March 1924 – 13 June 2018) was an Irish Michelin star-winning
head chef A chef de cuisine (, French for ''head of kitchen'') or head chef is a chef that leads and manages the kitchen and chefs of a restaurant or hotel. A chef patron (feminine form ''chef patronne'') (French for ''boss chef'') or executive chef ...
and co-owner of the restaurant The Yeats Room at
Ballymaloe House ''The Yeats Room'' of Ballymaloe House () is a restaurant located in Shanagarry in County Cork, Ireland. It is a fine dining restaurant that was awarded one Michelin star for each year in the period 1975–1980. The Michelin Guide awarded the re ...
in
Shanagarry Shanagarry () is a village in east County Cork in Ireland. The village is located near Ireland's south coast, approximately east of Cork, on the R632 regional road. Shanagarry is known for the Ballymaloe Cookery School, in the home and garde ...
,
County Cork County Cork ( ga, Contae Chorcaí) is the largest and the southernmost county of Ireland, named after the city of Cork, the state's second-largest city. It is in the province of Munster and the Southern Region. Its largest market towns a ...
. Besides her career in cooking, she had also been a writer, hotelier and teacher.


Personal life

Myrtle Hill was the daughter of Henry Houghton Hill, granddaughter of Arthur Hill, and great-granddaughter of
Henry Hill Henry Hill Jr. (June 11, 1943 – June 12, 2012) was an American mobster who was associated with the Lucchese crime family of New York City from 1955 until 1980, when he was arrested on narcotics charges and became an FBI informant. Hill testi ...
, all respected architects in Cork. She was a member of the
Religious Society of Friends Quakers are people who belong to a historically Protestant Christian set of Christian denomination, denominations known formally as the Religious Society of Friends. Members of these movements ("theFriends") are generally united by a belie ...
(Quakers). In 1943, Myrtle Hill married Ivan Allen, a vegetable grower, who was working at the farm Kinoith in Shanagarry. In 1947 the couple bought Ballymaloe House and the surrounding farm. Ivan managed the fruit and vegetable farm and worked on Kinoith, while his wife took care of the children and the manor. Later, in 1958, Ivan Allen inherited Kinoith from Wilson Strangman, the deceased owner. As her husband was a successful grower of fruit and vegetables, she had an abundance of fresh products in her kitchen. Under the guidance of her husband, an avid gourmet, she learned to cook by taking cooking courses at the School of Commerce and self-study. By 1962, she was cookery correspondent of the '' Irish Farmers Journal''. Originally the ''Irish Farmers Journal'' was a publication of Macra na Feirme. Myrtle Allen was very active in this young farmers' organisation, eventually becoming Vice President for the Munster Region of the National Council of Macra na Feirme in 1959. A bid for the presidency in 1963 was unsuccessful. She was married to her husband Ivan until his death in 1998. Allen, aged 94, died of
pneumonia Pneumonia is an inflammatory condition of the lung primarily affecting the small air sacs known as alveoli. Symptoms typically include some combination of productive or dry cough, chest pain, fever, and difficulty breathing. The severi ...
on 13 June 2018 at
Cork University Hospital Cork University Hospital ( ga, Ospidéal na hOllscoile Corcaigh) is a large university teaching hospital in Wilton, Cork in Ireland. Its academic partner is University College Cork. It is the only Level 1 Trauma Centre in Ireland. It is a public ...
.


Culinary career

In 1964, she decided to start a restaurant in her own dining room dubbed The Yeats Room., as the Allens had several paintings by Jack Yeats. Her philosophy of using local artisanal ingredients and changing her menu daily to reflect the best offerings of the season was "revolutionary at the time." She summed up her philosophy of food in the following nine words “local, seasonal, organic, flavoursome, sustainable and superbly cooked food”. Later she changed a few unused rooms into rooms for a guesthouse, which grew into the hotel Ballymaloe is today. By the 1960s she and her sous-chef, Darina O'Connell, started giving courses in cooking. Later Darina, by then married to Myrtle's son Tim Allen, moved the cookery classes to Kinoith under the name of Ballymaloe Cookery School. In 1986 Myrtle Allen was part of founding Euro-toques International and founder of Euro-toques Ireland. Euro-toques is an organisation of professional cooks promoting and protecting Europe's culinary heritage, and defending the quality of local and carefully cooked food. She served as president of the international body from 1994 to 1997. In 2013 Myrtle Allen was the subject of a documentary, ''Myrtle Allen: A Life in Food'', which aired on
RTÉ Television RTÉ Television is a department of Raidió Teilifís Éireann (RTÉ), the Republic of Ireland's state controlled national broadcaster. Its first channel was Teilifís Éireann, which began broadcasting on 31 December 1961. Since the 1960s, RT ...
.


Legacy

She has been called the "renowned matriarch of Modern Irish cuisine," "the leading light of modern-day Irish cooking," and "as important to her country's cuisine as
Alice Waters Alice Louise Waters (born April 28, 1944) is an American chef, restaurateur, and author. In 1971 she opened Chez Panisse, a Berkeley, California restaurant famous for its role in creating the farm-to-table movement and for pioneering Californi ...
was to America's."


Awards

* 1975–1980: one Michelin star * 1975–1981, 1983–1984 and 1987–1988: one star in the Egon Ronay Guide * 1981–1994: ''Red M'' awarded by the
Michelin Guide The Michelin Guides ( ) are a series of guide books that have been published by the French tyre company Michelin since 1900. The Guide awards up to three Michelin stars for excellence to a select few establishments. The acquisition or loss of ...
* 1984: Cesar Award in the Good Hotel Guide * 1988: Ballymaloe House included in the Courvoisier book of best hotels * 1990: the Ackerman Martell Guide the black four-leaved clover for excellence in all aspects of the hotel and restaurant business * 1991: Ballymaloe House included in Harpers and Queen 'The one hundred Best Hotels in the World' * 2000: Degree of Doctor of Laws, honoris causa – awarded by the
University College Cork University College Cork – National University of Ireland, Cork (UCC) ( ga, Coláiste na hOllscoile Corcaigh) is a constituent university of the National University of Ireland, and located in Cork. The university was founded in 1845 as one ...
* 2011: Taste Icon award – presented by Taste of Dublin * 2011: Lifetime Achievement Award – Women and Agriculture Awards * 2014: Lifetime Achievement Award from the Irish Food Writers' Guild


Books

* ''The Ballymaloe Cookbook''; 1984 * ''Myrtle Allen's Cooking at Ballymaloe House''; 1990


References


External links


Official website Ballymaloe House
{{DEFAULTSORT:Allen, Myrtle 1924 births 2018 deaths Irish chefs People from Cork (city) Food writers Women chefs Head chefs of Michelin starred restaurants Women food writers Deaths from pneumonia in the Republic of Ireland