Metal lace
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Metal lace describes a type of
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
made from
metal A metal (from ancient Greek, Greek μέταλλον ''métallon'', "mine, quarry, metal") is a material that, when freshly prepared, polished, or fractured, shows a lustrous appearance, and conducts electrical resistivity and conductivity, e ...
or metallic threads, such as
gold Gold is a chemical element with the symbol Au (from la, aurum) and atomic number 79. This makes it one of the higher atomic number elements that occur naturally. It is a bright, slightly orange-yellow, dense, soft, malleable, and ductile ...
,
silver Silver is a chemical element with the symbol Ag (from the Latin ', derived from the Proto-Indo-European ''h₂erǵ'': "shiny" or "white") and atomic number 47. A soft, white, lustrous transition metal, it exhibits the highest electrical ...
, or
copper Copper is a chemical element with the symbol Cu (from la, cuprum) and atomic number 29. It is a soft, malleable, and ductile metal with very high thermal and electrical conductivity. A freshly exposed surface of pure copper has a pink ...
. The designs can be worked on a textile ground, or the lace can completely be made from metallic threads. It is mainly used as an embellishment for military uniforms, fashionable, ceremonial and theatrical dress, and ecclesiastical textiles.


Gold lace

Lace made using gold wire has been produced since antiquity, with examples of gold netting found in Egyptian and
Assyria Assyria ( Neo-Assyrian cuneiform: , romanized: ''māt Aššur''; syc, ܐܬܘܪ, ʾāthor) was a major ancient Mesopotamian civilization which existed as a city-state at times controlling regional territories in the indigenous lands of the A ...
n tombs from 1500 to 1000 BCE. It was mainly produced as an embellishment for religious
vestment Vestments are liturgical garments and articles associated primarily with the Christian religion, especially by Eastern Churches, Catholics (of all rites), Anglicans, and Lutherans. Many other groups also make use of liturgical garments; th ...
s and high status garments. Metal lace, including gold and silver point de Venise, was produced in Italy until the 15th century, when high taxation and
sumptuary law Sumptuary laws (from Latin ''sūmptuāriae lēgēs'') are laws that try to regulate consumption. ''Black's Law Dictionary'' defines them as "Laws made for the purpose of restraining luxury or extravagance, particularly against inordinate expendi ...
s led to textile threads such as linen replacing the use of metal. To avoid these costs, the production of metal lace moved to France, where a high demand by royalty and the French aristocracy led to
Arras Arras ( , ; pcd, Aro; historical nl, Atrecht ) is the prefecture of the Pas-de-Calais department, which forms part of the region of Hauts-de-France; before the reorganization of 2014 it was in Nord-Pas-de-Calais. The historic centre of ...
,
Aurillac Aurillac (; oc, Orlhac ) is the prefecture of the Cantal department, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. The inhabitants of the commune are known as ''Aurillacois'' or ''Aurillacoises''. Geography Aurillac is at above sea leve ...
and other locations becoming renowned for gold lace production. From the 15th century on, most metal lace was a combination of metal and textile threads, rather than made of pure metal. ''Orris'' is another term for gold or silver lace, used especially in the 18th century; the term derived from Arras lace, made in
Arras Arras ( , ; pcd, Aro; historical nl, Atrecht ) is the prefecture of the Pas-de-Calais department, which forms part of the region of Hauts-de-France; before the reorganization of 2014 it was in Nord-Pas-de-Calais. The historic centre of ...
, France. Gold lace and braiding was a popular option for military uniforms because it resisted tarnish, unlike other metal laces. Contemporary gold lace usually has a high silver percentage, which can be as high as 90%, with the actual gold content as low as 3%. Much modern gold (and other metal) lace is now manufactured in India. Modern Indian "pure gold lace" is technically made from silver that has been electroplated with gold.


Copper lace

Lace made from copper wire was widely used in
Elizabethan era The Elizabethan era is the epoch in the Tudor period of the history of England during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (1558–1603). Historians often depict it as the golden age in English history. The symbol of Britannia (a female personific ...
theatre costuming as a substitute for more expensive gold and silver laces. It was a major import, with several tons of copper thread being imported into England between 1594 and 1596, and at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries, cost between 9 and 16 pennies an ounce. It had a tendency to tarnish, and was less hard-wearing.


Other metals

A type of die stamped metal "lace" was produced in the 19th and 20th century as a trimming for coffins. Coffin lace became a major industry in
Birmingham Birmingham ( ) is a city and metropolitan borough in the metropolitan county of West Midlands in England. It is the second-largest city in the United Kingdom with a population of 1.145 million in the city proper, 2.92 million in the We ...
, where its manufacture in the 1860s could use up to 70 tons of tin per year.


Gallery

File:Stomacher with goldwork France.png, Stomacher with goldwork France File:France, Strasbourg, mid-18th century, Period of Louis XV - Cap - 1919.855 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif, France, Strasbourg, mid-18th century, Period of Louis XV - Cap - 1919.855 - Cleveland Museum of Art File:Glovesvanda.jpg, Gloves, V and A File:Fragment of Lace LACMA M.67.50.7.jpg, Fragment of Lace LACMA M.67.50.7 File:Trimming (Italy), early 17th century (CH 18384469-2).jpg, Trimming (Italy), early 17th century (CH 18384469-2) File:Fragment (Italy), 17th century (CH 18173163-2).jpg, Fragment (Italy), 17th century (CH 18173163-2) File:Length of Lace LACMA M.67.50.15 (1 of 2).jpg, Length of Lace LACMA M.67.50.15 (1 of 2) File:Night cap MET DP159783.jpg, Night cap MET DP159783 File:Cap, 17th–18th century (CH 18344921).jpg, Cap, 17th–18th century (CH 18344921) File:Cap Crown (Austria), 19th century (CH 18562325).jpg, Cap Crown (Austria), 19th century (CH 18562325)


References

{{Lace types , state=collapsed Lace