Lloyd Henri Kiva New (

Cherokee The Cherokee (; chr, ᎠᏂᏴᏫᏯᎢ, translit=Aniyvwiyaʔi or Anigiduwagi, or chr, ᏣᎳᎩ, links=no, translit=Tsalagi) are one of the indigenous peoples of the Southeastern Woodlands of the United States. Prior to the 18th century, t ...

, February 18, 1916 – February 8, 2002) was a pioneer of

modern Modern may refer to: History * Modern history ** Early Modern period ** Late Modern period *** 18th century *** 19th century *** 20th century ** Contemporary history * Moderns, a faction of Freemasonry that existed in the 18th century Phil ...

Native American

fashion design Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates ...

and a cofounder and

president emeritus ''Emeritus'' (; female: ''emerita'') is an adjective used to designate a retired chair, professor, pastor, bishop, pope, director, president, prime minister, rabbi, emperor, or other person who has been "permitted to retain as an honorary title ...

of the

Institute of American Indian Arts The Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) is a public tribal land-grant college in Santa Fe, New Mexico. The college focuses on Native American art. It operates the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (MoCNA), which is housed in the historic S ...

(IAIA) in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Early life and education

New was born Lloyd Henri New on February 18, 1916, in

Fairland, Oklahoma Fairland is a town in southern Ottawa County, Oklahoma, United States. The population was 1,057 at the 2010 U. S. Census, an increase from the figure of 1,025 recorded in 2000. The town is in the historic Cherokee Nation. History Fairland was ...

. His father William Edward New (1875–1968) was Scots-Irish, and his mother, Josephine Colston New (1875–1955), was full blooded Cherokee. New was the youngest of ten children. He earned bachelor's and master's degrees in art education from the

School of the Art Institute of Chicago The School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC) is a private art school associated with the Art Institute of Chicago (AIC) in Chicago, Illinois. Tracing its history to an art students' cooperative founded in 1866, which grew into the museum and ...

(SAIC). After graduating, he taught painting at the

Phoenix Indian School The Phoenix Indian School, or Phoenix Indian High School in its later years, was a Bureau of Indian Affairs-operated school in Encanto Village, in the heart of Phoenix, Arizona. It served lower grades also from 1891 to 1935, and then served as a ...

Arizona Arizona ( ; nv, Hoozdo Hahoodzo ; ood, Alĭ ṣonak ) is a state in the Southwestern United States. It is the 6th largest and the 14th most populous of the 50 states. Its capital and largest city is Phoenix. Arizona is part of the Fou ...

, and then enlisted in the

US Navy The United States Navy (USN) is the maritime service branch of the United States Armed Forces and one of the eight uniformed services of the United States. It is the largest and most powerful navy in the world, with the estimated tonnage ...

in 1941.

Fashion design

New moved to

Scottsdale, Arizona , settlement_type = City , named_for = Winfield Scott , image_skyline = , image_seal = Seal of Scottsdale (Arizona).svg , image_blank_emblem = City of Scottsdale Script Logo.svg , nick ...

, where in 1945 he opened a fashion boutique in the Arizona Craftsmen Court in Scottsdale, Arizona. His label, named Kiva, first focused on leather purses, belts, and hats. In 1948, he expanded to a full clothing line. He collaborated with major

Native American artists This is a list of visual artists who are Native Americans in the United States. The Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 defines "Native American" as being enrolled in either federally recognized tribes or state recognized tribes or "an individual ...

, including Manfred Susunkewa (Hopi),

Charles Loloma Charles Sequevya Loloma (January 7, 1921 — June 9, 1991) was an American artist of indigenous Hopi descent. He was a highly influential Native American jeweler during the 20th century. He popularized use of gold and gemstones not previously use ...

(Hopi), and Andrew Van Tsinhajinnie (Navajo). His boutique flourished through the 1940s and 1950s. When

Miss Arizona The Miss Arizona competition is the pageant that selects the representative for the state of Arizona in the Miss America pageant. Arizona has twice won the Miss America title. The first Miss Arizona, Anna Marie Barnett, was crowned in 1938. ...

Lynn Freyse competed for Miss America in 1957, she wore a Kiva New-designed dress. Kiva designs sold to

Neiman-Marcus Neiman Marcus Group, Inc. is an American integrated luxury retailer headquartered in Dallas, Texas, which owns Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Horchow, and Last Call. Since September 2021, NMG has been owned by a group of investment compan ...

Institute of American Indian Arts

Initially, New had envisioned a "design laboratory" that taught young Native American students how to make a living through their arts. This evolved into the Institute of American Indian Arts, which New co-founded with Dr. George Boyce and opened in Santa Fe in 1962. The school, initially a high school and then later a college, was funded by the Bureau of Indian Affairs. New served as the inaugural art director and later president of the school. The purpose of the school was to provide an education which fostered pride in students' indigenous heritage and featured the development of skills designed to improve their economic opportunities. New taught a printed textiles course focused on dying techniques, and Azalea Thorpe, who he would marry in 1966, taught weaving. "Lloyd 'Kiva' New wanted art to be a larger dialogue, relevant to Native Americans and to people who are not Native American," said Tatiana Lomahaftewa-Singer (Hopi-Choctaw), IAIA curator of collections. "He wanted more pure art than something designed for the market."

Honors

New retired from IAIA in 1978, but served as president emeritus. The

American Craft Council The American Craft Council (ACC) is a national non-profit organization that champions craft based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Founded in 1943 by Aileen Osborn Webb, the council hosts national craft shows and conferences, publishes a quarterly mag ...

declared him an honorary fellow in 1976, and the city of Santa Fe declared him a "Living Treasure" in 1989."Lloyd Kiva New."
''Santa Fe Living Treasures.'' 2016 He was an adviser to the

National Museum of the American Indian The National Museum of the American Indian is a museum in the United States devoted to the culture of the indigenous peoples of the Americas. It is part of the Smithsonian Institution group of museums and research centers. The museum has three ...

. The Art Institute of Chicago bestowed an honorary doctorate upon him in 2000.

Death

New died of heart failure on February 8, 2002. He was survived by his two children from his first marriage, his grandchildren, and his wife, Aysen New.

Exhibits

This is a list of select exhibitions. * 1952 – Atlantic City's Second Annual Fashion Show, Atlantic City,

New Jersey New Jersey is a state in the Mid-Atlantic and Northeastern regions of the United States. It is bordered on the north and east by the state of New York; on the east, southeast, and south by the Atlantic Ocean; on the west by the Delaware ...

* 2016 – ''Lloyd Kiva New: Art Design and Influence'', Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, Santa Fe, New Mexico * 2016 –''A New Century: The Life and Legacy of Cherokee Artist and Educator Lloyd 'Kiva' New'',

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture is a museum of Native American art and culture located in Santa Fe, New Mexico. It is one of eight museums in the state operated by the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs and is accredited by the Amer ...

, Santa Fe, New Mexico * 2016 – ''Finding a Contemporary Voice: the Legacy of Lloyd Kiva New and IAIA'',

New Mexico Museum of Art The New Mexico Museum of Art is an art museum in Santa Fe governed by the state of New Mexico. It is one of four state-run museums in Santa Fe that are part of the Museum of New Mexico. It is located at 107 West Palace Avenue, one block off the ...

, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Collections

Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art The Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art is an art museum on the University of Oklahoma campus in Norman, Oklahoma. Overview The University of Oklahoma’s Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art holds over 20,000 objects in its permanent collection. The museum c ...

Norman Norman or Normans may refer to: Ethnic and cultural identity * The Normans, a people partly descended from Norse Vikings who settled in the territory of Normandy in France in the 10th and 11th centuries ** People or things connected with the Norm ...

, Oklahoma *

, Santa Fe, New Mexico *

Museum of Modern Art The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) is an art museum located in Midtown Manhattan, New York City, on 53rd Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. It plays a major role in developing and collecting modern art, and is often identified as one of ...

, New York City, New York

Notes

External links

Design Profile , Lloyd Kiva New
Beyond Buckskin
"A Modern Revolution"
article about New in ''New Mexico Magazine'' {{DEFAULTSORT:New, Lloyd Kiva 1916 births 2002 deaths United States Navy personnel of World War II Artists from Arizona Artists from New Mexico Artists from Oklahoma Cherokee Nation businesspeople Cherokee Nation artists Cherokee Nation United States military personnel Institute of American Indian Arts Native American painters Native American designers People from Scottsdale, Arizona School of the Art Institute of Chicago alumni Indigenous fashion designers of the Americas 20th-century American painters 20th-century Native American artists