Lampshade hat
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A lampshade hat is a millinery design in which the hat has a small circular crown – typically flat, but sometimes rounded – and flares outwards to create a cone-like profile. In shape, it may have some similarities to the
pillbox Pillbox may refer to: * Pill organizer, a container for medicine * Pillbox hat, a woman's hat with a flat crown, straight upright sides, and no brim * Pillbox (military) A pillbox is a type of blockhouse, or concrete dug-in guard-post, norm ...
and
bucket A bucket is typically a watertight, vertical cylinder or truncated cone or square, with an open top and a flat bottom, attached to a semicircular carrying handle called the ''bail''. A bucket is usually an open-top container. In contrast, a ...
hat, both of which were popular at around the same time, although the classic lampshade design is longer and more flared than a pillbox (typically ending at or below the ears) and is generally made of stiffer material than a bucket hat. The
Asian conical hat The Asian conical hat is a simple style of conically shaped sun hat originating in East, South and Southeast Asia; and notable in modern-day nations and regions of China, Taiwan, parts of Outer Manchuria, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Cambodia, India, Indo ...
and the
mushroom hat A mushroom hat (also sometimes referred to as a mushroom brim hat or dish hat) is a millinery style in which the brim of the hat tilts downwards, resembling the shape of a mushroom (or dish). It is a style that first emerged in the 1870s and 1880s ...
are sometimes termed ''lampshade'', as well as any oversized or lavishly trimmed hat.


History of the design

The lampshade style was popularised by Christian Dior in the 1950s and remained fashionable through the next decade. Dior continued to feature variations in his collections into the early 1960s. Early versions could be trimmed or decorated, or could rely on shape alone for effect. Writing in ''
The Guardian ''The Guardian'' is a British daily newspaper. It was founded in 1821 as ''The Manchester Guardian'', and changed its name in 1959. Along with its sister papers ''The Observer'' and ''The Guardian Weekly'', ''The Guardian'' is part of the Gu ...
'' in 1953 about the London spring collections, Clair Wilson described a: "lampshade of a hat" designed by
Simone Mirman Simone Mirman (1912–2008) was a Paris-born milliner based in London, chiefly known for her designs for the British royal family. Early life Simone Parmentier was born in Paris on 18 May 1912 to middle-class Catholic parents. Simone had an ap ...
and shown at John Cavanagh's London show. This model was pleated and matched to a black silk cape. A year later, Wilson described a new season's design that was quite close fitting, in the manner of a helmet, adding that it was: "devoid of decoration and having some relationship to the cloche in concealing most of the hair". By 1956, lampshades and pillboxes were said to be overtaking the previously popular mushroom and cartwheel designs at Ascot races. A reviewer of the opening day's fashions noted: "1956 must be dismissed as an unspectacular year. Gone were the cartwheels and giant mushrooms of other years, and in their place were pill-boxes (Princess Margaret), lampshades (Princess Alexandra) and various derivations of the beret". Notable examples of the design include the red lampshade hat worn by Doris Day in the 1959 romantic comedy ''
Pillow Talk Pillow talk is the relaxed, intimate conversation that often occurs between two sexual partners, sometimes after sexual activity, usually accompanied by cuddling, caresses, kissing, and other physical intimacy. It is associated with honesty, se ...
''. Costumes for this film were created by French costume/fashion designer
Jean Louis Jean Louis (born Jean Louis Berthault; October 5, 1907 – April 20, 1997) was a French-American costume designer. He won an Academy Award for '' The Solid Gold Cadillac'' (1956). Life and career Before coming to Hollywood, he worked in New Yo ...
. File:Kennedy and Shepard in Washington D.C. - GPN-2000-001659 cropped.jpg, In 1961, Louise Shepard wore a lampshade hat with front bow at a
NASA The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA ) is an independent agencies of the United States government, independent agency of the US federal government responsible for the civil List of government space agencies, space program ...
award ceremony for her husband Alan B. Shepard File:Anefo 911-0755 Vertrek van cropped.jpg, First lady of
Argentina Argentina (), officially the Argentine Republic ( es, link=no, República Argentina), is a country in the southern half of South America. Argentina covers an area of , making it the second-largest country in South America after Brazil, th ...
Clorinda Málaga de Prado wearing a soft fabric lampshade-style model in 1960 on a trip to
Rotterdam Rotterdam ( , , , lit. ''The Dam on the River Rotte'') is the second largest city and municipality in the Netherlands. It is in the province of South Holland, part of the North Sea mouth of the Rhine–Meuse–Scheldt delta, via the ''"Ne ...
File:Aliza Gur op Schiphol.jpg, Beauty queen and actress
Aliza Gur Aliza Gur ( he, עליזה גור, born Alizia Gross; 1 April 1940) is an Israeli actress who was Miss Israel of 1960 and a semifinalist in the Miss Universe Miss Universe is an annual international beauty pageant that is run by a Unite ...
wearing a flared lampshade hat with textured pattern in 1964 File:Aankomst Koning Bhumibol en Koningin Sirikit te Den Haag, koningin Sirikit, Bestanddeelnr 911-6994.jpg,
Queen Sirikit of Thailand Queen Sirikit ( th, สิริกิติ์; ; ); born ''Mom Rajawongse'' Sirikit Kitiyakara ( th, สิริกิติ์ กิติยากร; ; 12 August 1932) is the queen mother of Thailand. She was Queen of Thailand as the wif ...
wearing a close-fitting variation on the lampshade, incorporating ruching and slightly flared brim in 1960


Variations

Like the pillbox, the lampshade remained popular into the 1960s, as hems rose and
Space Age The Space Age is a period encompassing the activities related to the Space Race, space exploration, space technology, and the cultural developments influenced by these events, beginning with the launch of Sputnik 1 during 1957, and continuin ...
fashions took hold. Adaptations included both close-fitting and flared designs, as well as what fashion correspondent John Hart Roberts described as the "lampshade helmet", worn with hooded pullover, walking skirt and stockings at designer Maljana's
Florence Florence ( ; it, Firenze ) is a city in Central Italy and the capital city of the Tuscany Regions of Italy, region. It is the most populated city in Tuscany, with 383,083 inhabitants in 2016, and over 1,520,000 in its metropolitan area.Bilan ...
fashion show in 1965.


Revivals

John Galliano John Charles Galliano (born 28 November 1960) is a British fashion designer from Gibraltar. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior. Since 2014, Galliano has been the crea ...
, designing for Dior, showed a variety of extreme lampshade-style hats in 2008 – these were created by milliner Stephen Jones. The design duo
DSquared2 Dean and Dan Caten (né Catenacci; born December 19, 1964) are Canadian fashion designers, radio personalities, and businessmen. They are identical twin brothers and the founders and owners of Dsquared², an Italian luxury fashion house based in ...
recreated 1950s-style lampshade hats for their spring/summer 2014 fashion show in September 2013 at
Milan Fashion Week Milan Fashion Week ( it, Settimana della moda) is a clothing trade show held semi-annually in Milan, Italy. The autumn/winter event is held in February/March of each year, and the spring/summer event is held in September/October of each year. It ...
. Other designers showing lampshade-inspired designs for 2014, included
L'Wren Scott Laura "Luann" Bambrough (April 28, 1964 – March 17, 2014), known professionally as L'Wren Scott,Lyn Devon Lyn Devon is a fashion designer of luxury American sportswear working in New York City. Her atelier is in Soho. Early life Devon was born and raised in New York City. She is a 2002 graduate of Brown University. Career After graduation, and an i ...
.


See also

*
Mushroom hat A mushroom hat (also sometimes referred to as a mushroom brim hat or dish hat) is a millinery style in which the brim of the hat tilts downwards, resembling the shape of a mushroom (or dish). It is a style that first emerged in the 1870s and 1880s ...
*
Bucket hat A bucket hat (variations of which include the fisherman's hat, Irish country hat and session hat) is a hat with a narrow, downward-sloping brim. Typically, the hat is made from heavy-duty cotton fabric such as denim or canvas, or heavy wool s ...
*
Pillbox hat A pillbox hat is a small hat, usually worn by women, with a flat crown, straight, upright sides, and no brim. It is named after the small cylindrical or hexagonal cases that were used for storing or carrying a small number of pills.


References


External links


Givenchy lampshade hat with flower decoration in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection, c. 1960

James Wedge variation on the lampshade hat made for Liberty of London in the Victoria & Albert Museum collection, 1957Unusual lampshade design with goose-feather brim from the Ryerson Fashion Collection, believed to be 1950s

DSquared spring/summer 2014 fashion show including lampshade hats on Fashion Channel
{{hats 1950s fashion 1960s fashion 2000s fashion 2010s fashion Hats Fashion accessories History of fashion