Ladies' Alpine Club
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The Ladies' Alpine Club was founded in London in 1907 and was the first mountaineering club for women. It merged with the
Alpine Club The first alpine club, the Alpine Club, based in the United Kingdom, was founded in London in 1857 as a gentlemen's club. It was once described as: :"a club of English gentlemen devoted to mountaineering, first of all in the Alps, members of whi ...
of Great Britain in 1975.


History

In December 1907 a group of ladies who were climbers in the
Alps The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, Swi ...
met in London and agreed to form a new club, similar to the long-established Alpine Club, which at the time did not accept women members on account of their supposed physical and moral deficiencies in the matter of mountain climbing. The club's first president was the Bishop of Bristol, the second was Elizabeth Le Blond in 1908, who had been praised by T. G. Bonney when he became president of the Alpine Club as one of those "whom our stern Salic law prevents us from numbering among our members", and it was the first club specifically for women mountaineers.Ronald Clark, ''The Alps'' (2011)
p. 129
/ref> Initially, it was the Alpine Section of the Lyceum Club, an intellectual women's club,Thompson, Simon, ''Unjustifiable Risk? The Story of British Climbing'', Cicerone Press, 2010, p. 74 to which Elizabeth Le Blond belonged, but in 1908 it established an independent existence.David Doughan, Peter Gordon ''Women, Clubs and Associations in Britain'' (2007), p. 111 The club had its base at the Great Central Hotel, Marylebone, but was seen as affiliated to the Alpine Club and junior to it.Derek Walker
The Evolution of Climbing Clubs in Britain
(pdf) at alpinejournal.org.uk. Retrieved 25 March 2014
As well as arranging climbing expeditions, the Ladies' Alpine Club organised a monthly lecture and provided rooms where members could meet for tea. For the duration of the
First World War World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
, the club's rooms were taken over by the
War Department War Department may refer to: * War Department (United Kingdom) * United States Department of War (1789–1947) See also * War Office, a former department of the British Government * Ministry of defence * Ministry of War * Ministry of Defence * D ...
, but they were restored in 1919. The Alpine Club itself was at first sceptical about the Ladies' Club, but it soon began to take it seriously and to co-operate with it, especially after Queen Margherita of Italy accepted the position of Honorary President. According to
Ann Bridge Ann Bridge (11 September 1889 – 9 March 1974) is the pseudonym of Mary Ann Dolling (Sanders), Lady O'Malley, also known as Cottie Sanders. Bridge wrote 14 novels, mostly based on her experiences living in foreign countries, one book of short ...
, a friend and climbing partner of
George Mallory George Herbert Leigh Mallory (18 June 1886 – 8 or 9 June 1924) was an English mountaineer who took part in the first three British expeditions to Mount Everest in the early 1920s. Born in Cheshire, Mallory became a student at Winchest ...
, the Ladies' Club held an annual dinner at the Great Central Hotel: At the first such annual dinner, on 7 December 1908, the President of the Alpine Club, Herman Woolley, spoke supportively of the new organisation and noted that ladies could make "ascents of the very first order". A former president of the Alpine Club then added that in his time he had wanted to admit women to membership, and indeed had found that a majority of other members supported this, but he had decided not to force the issue on an "unwilling minority". Despite this apparent rapprochement, a certain animus towards women climbers from their colleagues in the senior club remained for many years. Ellen Pigeon stated: "In days gone by many A.C.s refused to speak to us," and one of the leading women climbers of the age, the American
Fanny Bullock Workman Fanny Bullock Workman (January 8, 1859 – January 22, 1925) was an American geographer, cartographer, explorer, travel writer, and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas. She was one of the first female professional mountaineers; she not only e ...
, found male mountaineers in Britain to be less than friendly to her. In his obituary of Workman, Captain J. P. Farrar remarked: In 1921 a rival organisation called the Pinnacle Club was founded by the wives of two members of the
Climbers' Club The Climbers' Club is the senior rock-climbing club in England and Wales (outside the Lake District). The club was founded in 1898. The CC one of the largest publishers of climbing guidebooks in many of the main climbing areas of England and Wal ...
. When the
British Mountaineering Council The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the national representative body for England and Wales that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. The BMC ...
was constituted in 1945, both clubs for women, the Ladies' Alpine Club and the Pinnacle Club, were represented on its committee.


Merger with Alpine Club

The Alpine Club had long resisted admitting women members, and in 1973 an attempt to have this policy reversed was defeated, the necessary two-thirds majority not being achieved. In May 1974, however, another vote was held and, despite the continued opposition of the influential Bill Tilman, women were at last allowed to join the club. This made the existence of a separate women's club unnecessary, and in 1975 the Ladies' Alpine Club merged with the Alpine Club, the latter gaining 150 new members. The merger was not universally popular, and 37 women resigned in protest in 1975 or soon thereafter, including Joyce Dunsheath, Miriam Underhill and Monica Jackson. The first two women to be elected to membership of the Alpine Club in their own right were Sally Westmacott, wife of Mike Westmacott, who had been on the 1953 Everest expedition, and Betty Seifert.


''Ladies' Alpine Club Journal''

Between 1920 and 1975 the club issued a yearbook, which was absorbed into the ''
Alpine Journal The ''Alpine Journal'' (''AJ'') is an annual publication by the Alpine Club of London. It is the oldest mountaineering journal in the world. History The magazine was first published on 2 March 1863 by the publishing house of Longman in London ...
'' on the merger of the two clubs. Until 1960 the title of the yearbook was simply ''Ladies Alpine Club'', then from 1961 to 1975 it was called ''Ladies Alpine Club Journal''. All issues were indexed in 2000 by Johanna Merz, former editor of the ''Alpine Journal''.


Presidents

*1907–1913: Mrs Aubrey Le Blond (1860–1934) *1913–1916: Lucy Walker (1836–1916) * Margaret Meyer (1862–1924) *1957: Una Cameron (1904–1987)


Notable members

* Anna Pigeon (1832–1917), vice-president from 1910 * Margaret Lorimer (1866–1954), New Zealand member * Nea Morin (1905–1986) *
Phyllis Munday Phyllis B Munday, CM (née James) (24 September 1894 – 11 April 1990) was a Canadian mountaineer, explorer, naturalist and humanitarian. She was famed for being the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Robson (with Annette Buck) in 1924, ...
(1894–1990), created honorary member in 1936


See also

*
List of alpine clubs The first alpine club, the Alpine Club, based in the United Kingdom, was founded in London in 1857 as a gentlemen's club. It was once described as: :"a club of English gentlemen devoted to mountaineering, first of all in the Alps, members of whic ...


References


Further reading

*Johanna Merz, ''Index to Ladies' Alpine Club Year-books, 1910–1975'' (Alpine Club, 2000)


External links


Club expedition reports#495 Ladies Alpine Club Minute Books
at nationalarchives.gov.uk {{DEFAULTSORT:Ladies' Alpine Club Women's clubs 1907 establishments in the United Kingdom Alpine Club (UK) Climbing organizations Climbing clubs in the United Kingdom Alpine clubs Sports organizations established in 1907 Mountaineering in the United Kingdom Women in London History of women in the United Kingdom Female climbers