Kapeng barako
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''Kapeng barako'' ( es, café varraco or café verraco), also known as Barako coffee or Batangas coffee, is a
coffee varietal ] Coffee varieties are the diverse subspecies derived through selective breeding or natural selection of coffee plants. While there is tremendous variability encountered in both wild and cultivated coffee plants, there are a few varieties and c ...
grown in the
Philippines The Philippines (; fil, Pilipinas, links=no), officially the Republic of the Philippines ( fil, Republika ng Pilipinas, links=no), * bik, Republika kan Filipinas * ceb, Republika sa Pilipinas * cbk, República de Filipinas * hil, Republ ...
, particularly in the provinces of
Batangas Batangas, officially the Province of Batangas ( tl, Lalawigan ng Batangas ), is a province in the Philippines located in the Calabarzon region on Luzon. Its capital is the city of Batangas, and is bordered by the provinces of Cavite and La ...
and
Cavite Cavite, officially the Province of Cavite ( tl, Lalawigan ng Kabite; Chavacano: ''Provincia de Cavite''), is a province in the Philippines located in the Calabarzon region in Luzon. Located on the southern shores of Manila Bay and southwest ...
. It belongs to the species '' Coffea liberica.'' The term is also used to refer to all coffee coming from those provinces. ''Barako'' in the
languages of the Philippines There are some 120 to 187 languages spoken in the Philippines, depending on the method of classification. Almost all are Malayo-Polynesian languages native to the archipelago. A number of Spanish-influenced creole varieties generally called C ...
means "
stud Stud may refer to the following terms: Animals * Stud (animal), an animal retained for breeding ** Stud farm, a property where livestock are bred Arts and entertainment * Stud (band), a British progressive rock group * The Stud (bar), a gay ba ...
", and is associated with the image of masculinity. Barako has a strong flavor and fragrance reminiscent of
aniseed Anise (; '), also called aniseed or rarely anix is a flowering plant in the family Apiaceae native to Eurasia. The flavor and aroma of its seeds have similarities with some other spices and herbs, such as star anise, fennel, licorice, and t ...
. Barako trees are some of the largest commercially cultivated coffee trees, which make them more difficult to grow. They are considered endangered due to low production and demand. It is listed in the
Ark of Taste The Ark of Taste is an international catalogue of endangered heritage foods which is maintained by the global Slow Food movement. The Ark is designed to preserve at-risk foods that are sustainably produced, unique in taste, and part of a distin ...
international catalogue of endangered heritage foods by the
Slow Food Slow Food is an organization that promotes local food and traditional cooking. It was founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986 and has since spread worldwide. Promoted as an alternative to fast food, it strives to preserve traditional and re ...
movement.


Etymology

''Barako'' in
Philippine languages The Philippine languages or Philippinic are a proposed group by R. David Paul Zorc (1986) and Robert Blust (1991; 2005; 2019) that include all the languages of the Philippines and northern Sulawesi, Indonesia—except Sama–Bajaw (languag ...
is equivalent to the English term "
stud Stud may refer to the following terms: Animals * Stud (animal), an animal retained for breeding ** Stud farm, a property where livestock are bred Arts and entertainment * Stud (band), a British progressive rock group * The Stud (bar), a gay ba ...
" (both literally and figuratively), from
Spanish Spanish might refer to: * Items from or related to Spain: **Spaniards are a nation and ethnic group indigenous to Spain **Spanish language, spoken in Spain and many Latin American countries **Spanish cuisine Other places * Spanish, Ontario, Can ...
''varraco'', "wild boar" (''baboy ramo'' in Tagalog). The word is associated with connotations of masculinity and
machismo Machismo (; ; ; ) is the sense of being " manly" and self-reliant, a concept associated with "a strong sense of masculine pride: an exaggerated masculinity". Machismo is a term originating in the early 1930s and 1940s best defined as hav ...
in Filipino culture.


History

Barako coffee was introduced to the
Philippines The Philippines (; fil, Pilipinas, links=no), officially the Republic of the Philippines ( fil, Republika ng Pilipinas, links=no), * bik, Republika kan Filipinas * ceb, Republika sa Pilipinas * cbk, República de Filipinas * hil, Republ ...
in the 1740s by Spanish friars. It was originally planted in the lowlands of
Lipa, Batangas Lipa (), officially the City of Lipa ( fil, Lungsod ng Lipa), is a 1st class component city in the province of Batangas, Philippines. According to the 2020 census, it has a population of 372,931 people. It is the first city charter in the pr ...
. From there it spread to other areas in the province, and Batangas became known for its coffee locally. Barako was also historically exported from the 1860s onwards to
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
in the
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territori ...
and to parts of Europe, commanding prices of five times the prices of other Asian coffee beans. In 1876, barako cultivation spread to the neighboring province of
Cavite Cavite, officially the Province of Cavite ( tl, Lalawigan ng Kabite; Chavacano: ''Provincia de Cavite''), is a province in the Philippines located in the Calabarzon region in Luzon. Located on the southern shores of Manila Bay and southwest ...
. The Philippines became one of the top four producers of coffee in the world in the 1880s, after
coffee rust ''Hemileia vastatrix'' is a multicellular basidiomycete fungus of the order Pucciniales (previously also known as Uredinales) that causes coffee leaf rust (CLR), a disease affecting the coffee plant. Coffee serves as the obligate host of co ...
devastated plantations worldwide. However, in 1889, the coffee industry in the Philippines also collapsed after coffee rust spread to the islands. This caused most farmers to shift to other crops. Only a few barako seedlings survived, most of which were now in Cavite. In the mid-20th century, coffee demand once again surged, but barako didn't make a comeback because of the difficulty of cultivating it in comparison to other coffee varieties. Instead the new surge in coffee production focused on coffee rust-resistant
cultivar A cultivar is a type of cultivated plant that people have selected for desired traits and when propagated retain those traits. Methods used to propagate cultivars include: division, root and stem cuttings, offsets, grafting, tissue culture ...
s imported from the United States.


Description

The shape of the ''liberica'' beans is unique among other commercial species ('' arabica'', '' robusta'', and '' excelsa''). It is asymmetric, with one side shorter than the other side, creating characteristic "hook" at the tip. The central furrow is also more jagged in comparison to other coffee beans. Barako trees are very tall, reaching up to high. They are harvested using ladders. The size of the cherries, the beans, and the leaves of barako are also among the largest of all coffee varieties. Its taste is said to be superior to Robusta, and most
Philippine The Philippines (; fil, Pilipinas, links=no), officially the Republic of the Philippines ( fil, Republika ng Pilipinas, links=no), * bik, Republika kan Filipinas * ceb, Republika sa Pilipinas * cbk, República de Filipinas * hil, Republ ...
coffee drinkers prefer ''barako'' to Arabica. ''Arabica''–''varraco'' and ''excelsa''–''varraco'' blends are popular and create a cup with broader flavor range. It has a distinctive flavor and a strong fragrance reminiscent of
aniseed Anise (; '), also called aniseed or rarely anix is a flowering plant in the family Apiaceae native to Eurasia. The flavor and aroma of its seeds have similarities with some other spices and herbs, such as star anise, fennel, licorice, and t ...
.


Cultivation and conservation

Barako only accounts for less than 2% of commercial coffee grown. It is abundant in the Philippines. It is rarely exported, as most production come from small farms. It is sold to the local and tourist market. It is also produced in Malaysia. The large sizes of barako trees make it less efficient for production and harvesting than other coffee varieties, causing most modern farmers to shy away from it and grow robusta
cultivar A cultivar is a type of cultivated plant that people have selected for desired traits and when propagated retain those traits. Methods used to propagate cultivars include: division, root and stem cuttings, offsets, grafting, tissue culture ...
s instead. However, there is recent interest in reviving and conserving barako, including increasing preference for it in local coffee shops in the Philippines. Barako coffee is listed in the
Ark of Taste The Ark of Taste is an international catalogue of endangered heritage foods which is maintained by the global Slow Food movement. The Ark is designed to preserve at-risk foods that are sustainably produced, unique in taste, and part of a distin ...
international catalogue of endangered heritage foods by the
Slow Food Slow Food is an organization that promotes local food and traditional cooking. It was founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986 and has since spread worldwide. Promoted as an alternative to fast food, it strives to preserve traditional and re ...
movement.


Preparation

Barako coffee is prepared using a drip brewing device,
French press A French press, also known as a cafetière, ''cafetière à piston'', ''caffettiera a stantuffo'', press pot, coffee press, or coffee plunger, is a coffee brewing device, although it can also be used for other tasks. In 1923 Ugo Paolini, an Ital ...
, or by simply pouring hot water unto the grounds and filtering the mixture using a piece of cloth. ''Barako'' is traditionally prepared black or sweetened with ''
muscovado Muscovado is a type of partially refined to unrefined sugar with a strong molasses content and flavour, and dark brown in colour. It is technically considered either a non-centrifugal cane sugar or a centrifuged, partially refined sugar accordi ...
'' sugar. ''Barako'' can be used to make
espresso Espresso (, ) is a coffee-brewing method of Italian origin, in which a small amount of nearly boiling water (about ) is forced under of pressure through finely-ground coffee beans. Espresso can be made with a wide variety of coffee beans a ...
and other espresso-based drinks.


Cocktails

Barako coffee or Liberica Coffee has recently been seen imported and sold in
Canada Canada is a country in North America. Its ten provinces and three territories extend from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and northward into the Arctic Ocean, covering over , making it the world's second-largest country by tot ...
and incorporated into various common espresso based cocktails such as a liberica espresso martinis.


Other uses

Aside from being a beverage, ''kapeng barako'' is also used as a body scrub in spa treatment. Batangueños use ''kapeng barako'' as an alternative to soup as part of the rice dish. It is usually used when eating '' tapa'' or any dry/fried dish. ''Kapeng barako'' from Batangas is now gaining popularity among consumers, mainly for its unique, authentic and traditional appeal.


See also

*
Benguet coffee Benguet coffee, also known as Benguet arabica, is a single-origin coffee varietal grown in the Cordillera Central (Luzon), Cordillera highlands of the northern Philippines since the 19th century. It belongs to the species '' Coffea arabica'', ...
*
Sagada coffee ''Sagada coffee, ''also known as ''Sagada arabica'', is a single-origin coffee varietal grown in Sagada in the Cordillera highlands of the northern Philippines. It belongs to the species '' Coffea arabica'', of the Typica variety. History A ...
*
Sulu coffee Kahawa Sūg, also known as Sulu coffee or Sulu robusta, is a single-origin coffee varietal grown by the Tausug people of the Sulu Archipelago, Philippines. It is a robusta cultivar, belonging to the species '' Coffea canephora''. It ori ...
*
Tsokolate ''Tsokolate'' (), also spelled ''chocolate'', is a native Filipino thick hot chocolate drink. It is made from ''tabliya'' or ''tablea'', tablets of pure ground roasted cacao beans, dissolved in water and milk. Like in Spanish and Mexican ver ...


References

{{Philippine cuisine Flora of the Philippines Coffee varieties Culture of Batangas Culture of Cavite Hot drinks Non-alcoholic drinks Philippine cuisine Coffee in the Philippines