fabric
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not th ...
bast fibre
Bast fibre (also called phloem fibre or skin fibre) is plant fibre collected from the phloem (the "inner bark", sometimes called "skin") or bast surrounding the stem of certain dicotyledonous plants. It supports the conductive cells of the phl ...
s of certain species of
tree
In botany, a tree is a perennial plant with an elongated stem, or trunk, usually supporting branches and leaves. In some usages, the definition of a tree may be narrower, including only woody plants with secondary growth, plants that are ...
Rosales
Rosales () is an order of flowering plants. Peter F. Stevens (2001 onwards). "Rosales". At: Trees At: Angiosperm Phylogeny Website. At: Missouri Botanical Garden Website. (see ''External links'' below) It is sister to a clade consisting of Faga ...
and
Malvales
The Malvales are an order of flowering plants. As circumscribed by APG II-system, the order includes about 6000 species within 9 families. The order is placed in the eurosids II, which are part of the eudicots.
The plants are mostly shrubs and ...
Polynesia
Polynesia () "many" and νῆσος () "island"), to, Polinisia; mi, Porinihia; haw, Polenekia; fj, Polinisia; sm, Polenisia; rar, Porinetia; ty, Pōrīnetia; tvl, Polenisia; tkl, Polenihia (, ) is a subregion of Oceania, made up of ...
phoneme
In phonology and linguistics, a phoneme () is a unit of sound that can distinguish one word from another in a particular language.
For example, in most dialects of English, with the notable exception of the West Midlands and the north-wes ...
corresponds to in most other
Polynesian languages
The Polynesian languages form a genealogical group of languages, itself part of the Oceanic branch of the Austronesian family.
There are 38 Polynesian languages, representing 7 percent of the 522 Oceanic languages, and 3 percent of the Austro ...
), but differs in the methods used in its creation. Kapa is based primarily on the creative combination of linear elements that cross and converge to form squares, triangles, chevrons, and diagonal forms, giving a feeling of boldness and directness. Kapa was used primarily for clothing like the ''malo'' worn by men as a loincloth and the ''pāū'' worn by women as a wraparound. Kapa was also used for , a shawl or cape worn over one shoulder. Other uses for kapa depended on caste and a person's place in ancient Hawaiian society.
'' Kapa moe'' (bed covers) were reserved for the '' alii'' or chiefly caste, while kapa robes were used by '' kāhuna'' or priestly caste. Kapa was also used as banners where leis were hung from it and images of their gods were printed on it.
Techniques
Cultural anthropologists over the course of the 20th century identified techniques in the creation of kapa that are unique to the Hawaiian Islands. ''Wauke'' (''
Broussonetia papyrifera
The paper mulberry (''Broussonetia papyrifera'', syn. ''Morus papyrifera'' L.) is a species of flowering plant in the family Moraceae. It is native to Asia,Artocarpus altilis''), ''ōpuhe'' ('' Urera'' spp.), ''maaloa'' ('' Neraudia melastomifolia''), ''māmaki'' (''
Pipturus albidus
''Pipturus albidus'', known as ''māmaki'' (sometimes ''waimea'', for its resemblance to olomea) in Hawaiian and known as Waimea pipturus in English, is a species of flowering plant in the nettle family, Urticaceae, that is endemic to Hawaii. ...
''), ''ākala'' (''
Rubus hawaiensis
''Rubus hawaiensis'', also called the ''Ākala'', is one of two species (with '' R. macraei'') commonly known as Hawaiian raspberry, endemic to Hawaii. It is found on the islands of Kauai, Molokai, Maui, O'ahu, and Hawaii in mesic to wet for ...
''), ''ākalakala'' ('' R. macraei''), and ''hau'' (''
Hibiscus tiliaceus
''Hibiscus tiliaceus'', commonly known as the sea hibiscus or coast cottonwood, is a species of flowering tree in the mallow family, Malvaceae, with a pantropical distribution along coastlines. It has also been introduced to Florida and New Zea ...
''). In the 18th century, pieces of kapa were often made of grooving or ribbing. It is done by pushing the dampened cloth into the grooves of a special board. The ''wauke'' tree is cut and soaked in water. It is then laid on a ''kua kūkū'' (polished stone tablet) and beaten with a ''hōhoa'' (rounded beater). After the first phase of beating, the kapa is transferred to a sacred house to be beaten a second time, but in a religious manner.
Process
Each kapa manufacturer used an ''ie kūkū'', a beater with four flat sides that were each carved differently. Another way to carve the kapa is by starting on the four-sided affairs, with the coarsest grooves on one side used first in breaking down the bast, or wet bark. Then, the beating continued using two sides with finer grooves. Lastly, finishing touches were accomplished with the remaining smooth side of the beater. The carvings left an impression in the cloth that was hers alone. After the European discovery of the Hawaiian Islands, Western traders travelled to Hawaii especially for kapa.
The process of making kapa was done primarily by women. Young girls would learn by helping their mothers, over time doing the majority of the work, and when older could make kapa by themselves.
See also
*
Tapa cloth
Tapa cloth (or simply ''tapa'') is a barkcloth made in the islands of the Pacific Ocean, primarily in Tonga, Samoa and Fiji, but as far afield as Niue, Cook Islands, Futuna, Solomon Islands, Java, New Zealand, Vanuatu, Papua New Guinea an ...
, similar fabric made elsewhere in Polynesia
References
Further reading
* Arkinstall, Patricia Lorraine (1966). ''A study of bark cloth from Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga and Fiji: an exploration of the regional development of distinctive styles of bark cloth and its relationship to other cultural factors''. Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University.
* Brigham, William Tufts (1911). ''Ka hana kapa, the making of bark cloth in Hawaii''. Honolulu, Hawaii: Bishop Museum Press.
* Kaeppler, Adrienne Lois (1975). ''The Fabrics of Hawaii (Bark Cloth)''. Leigh-on-Sea, England: F. Lewis. .
"Kapa: Fabric of a Culture" Article about the art of kapa making and kapa master Pua Van Dorpe by Rita Goldman. ''
Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine
The island of Maui (; Hawaiian: ) is the second-largest of the islands of the state of Hawaii at 727.2 square miles (1,883 km2) and is the 17th largest island in the United States. Maui is the largest of Maui County's four islands, whic ...
'' Vol.12, No.1 (January 2008)
"Kapa: More to Learn" Pua Van Dorpe's kapa collection honoring 11 Maui chiefs. ''
Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine
The island of Maui (; Hawaiian: ) is the second-largest of the islands of the state of Hawaii at 727.2 square miles (1,883 km2) and is the 17th largest island in the United States. Maui is the largest of Maui County's four islands, whic ...