Jose “Pitoy” Moreno
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Jose "Pitoy" Moreno, Jr. (25 February 1925 – 15 January 2018) was a Filipino
fashion designer Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashion in ...
and one of the earliest advocates of the
Maria Clara gown The María Clara gown, historically known as the ''traje de mestiza'' during the Spanish colonial era, is a type of traditional dress worn by women in the Philippines. It is an aristocratic version of the '' baro't saya''. It takes its name ...
. He is much regarded by the Asian fashion field as the ''Fashion Czar of Asia''. He established the spotlight on Filipino fashion in the world artistic fashion scene during the 1960s until his retirement, paving the way for young Filipino fashion designers in Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, and other parts of Southeast Asia.


Early life

Moreno studied at the University of the Philippines with a bachelor's degree in
fine arts In European academic traditions, fine art is developed primarily for aesthetics or creative expression, distinguishing it from decorative art or applied art, which also has to serve some practical function, such as pottery or most metalwork ...
. During his stay in the university, he joined the Upsilon Sigma Phi fraternity, where he managed to build a strong society network with Ferdinand Marcos, Benigno Aquino Jr. and Salvador “Doy” Laurel. He became close friends with Celia Diaz, who would later marry Doy Laurel, and the painter Araceli “Cheloy” Dans, who he gave his first hand-crafted wedding gown. In an interview, Moreno stated that during his stay in the University of the Philippines, he developed “a finer sense of the fashion world”.


Career

Moreno became the president of the Philippine Couture Association, the very first association of fashion designers in Manila, Philippines. He was the fashion designer for the Bayanihan Philippine Dance Company. His fashion designs were exhibited at the World's Fair in Seattle, Washington and New York City. His fashion designs appeared on the pages of fashion magazines such as '' Vogue'', ''
Harper's Bazaar ''Harper's Bazaar'' is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. It was first published in New York City on November 2, 1867, as the weekly ''Harper's Bazar''. ''Harper's Bazaar'' is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the st ...
'', ''
Holiday A holiday is a day set aside by custom or by law on which normal activities, especially business or work including school, are suspended or reduced. Generally, holidays are intended to allow individuals to celebrate or commemorate an event or tra ...
'', and '' Le Figaro'', where Moreno introduced the words ''jusi'', ''piña'' and ''lepanto'' to world fashion, the first time Filipino fashion terminologies were incorporated in world fashion artistry. Due to his popularity from the 1960s to 1980s, many heads of state, royalties, and prominent personalities from Asia, Europe, and the Americas became his clients for decades. Prominent people who were adorned by Moreno's artistic beadwork, embroidery and hand-paintings includeThe Fashion Czar Of Asia is how the world press calls Jose “Pitoy” Moreno
, showcase.eyp.ph
Ybiernas, Nonoi D

The News Today Online Edition, Iloilo City, thenewstoday.info, November 14, 2008
the
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from the 1960s to the 1980s, United States first ladies
Nancy Reagan Nancy Davis Reagan (; born Anne Frances Robbins; July 6, 1921 – March 6, 2016) was an American film actress and First Lady of the United States from 1981 to 1989. She was the second wife of president Ronald Reagan. Reagan was born in N ...
and Pat Nixon; Betty Ford,
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of Thailand, Tsaritsa Margarita of Bulgaria,
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,
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of the United Kingdom, the
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,
María del Carmen Martínez-Bordiú y Franco Maria may refer to: People * Mary, mother of Jesus * Maria (given name), a popular given name in many languages Place names Extraterrestrial *170 Maria, a Main belt S-type asteroid discovered in 1877 *Lunar maria (plural of ''mare''), large, da ...
,
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,
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(second wife of Henry Ford II), Margot Fonteyn, Deeda Blair (Catherine "Deeda" Gerlach, wife of William McCormick Blair, Jr.), and Filipino celebrities. Moreno also authored the books ''Kasalan'', a fashion book about
Filipino wedding Traditional marriage customs in the Philippines and Filipino wedding practices pertain to the characteristics of marriage and wedding traditions established and adhered by them Filipino men and women in the Philippines after a period of adopti ...
s, and ''Philippine Costume'', a book on traditional Filipino dresses. He was regarded as the ''Fashion Czar of Asia'' by French tabloid Le Figaro, sealing his status as fashion royalty. The title later on was used by the Asian fashion community in defining the artistic works of Moreno. Despite the fame, Moreno was known by many accounts for his rooted behavior where he would give-away his prized gowns for people who cannot afford lavish weddings.The Designer as Author
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In 1962, Moreno designed a dress for Puerto Rican actress
Rita Moreno Rita Moreno (born Rosa Dolores Alverío Marcano; December 11, 1931) is a Puerto Rican actress, dancer, and singer. Noted for her work across different areas of the entertainment industry, she has appeared in numerous film, television, and thea ...
for the Academy Awards where she won Best Supporting Actress. She later wore the same dress at the 2018 ceremony where it made news. The dress is now on display at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures.


Retirement

Due to old age, Moreno retired from his craft and became an adviser to young fashion designers, passing on his knowledge on artistic beadwork on different Filipino fabrics. In 2009, Jose "Pitoy" Moreno was declared as a
National Artist National Artist is an honorary title issued by some states as a highest recognition of artists for their significant contributions to the cultural heritage of the nation. An equivalent title, People's Artist, has been known in countries of the f ...
for Fashion Design by President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. However, this was met with protest by other National Artists, such as Bienvenido Lumbera (National Artist for Literature), who told media that the category of Fashion Design was not an accepted art form and was simply dressmaking, not art. The Supreme Court issued a temporary restraining order (TRO) on the conferment of the National Artist award to Moreno and six other recommendees. Later on, the National Artist title on Moreno and three other recommendees were revoked by the Supreme Court in 2013 after finding that former president Arroyo personally conferred the award to the four people, without undergoing to a traditional process made by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts. A few years later, it was clarified that fashion design is under the category of Design in the National Artists roster, making Moreno eligible to be conferred the award in the future through the traditional conferment process.


Death

Moreno died on January 15, 2018 at the Manila Doctors Hospital, where he had been confined for the past few years for debilitating ailments. It was later confirmed that he died due to heart attack. Prior to his death, he has been called a "''pillar of Philippine fashion''" and "''a significant cog of Philippine society''". His remains were brought to his final resting place at the Manila Memorial Park.


See also

* List of fashion designers from the Philippines


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Moreno, Pitoy 1925 births 2018 deaths Filipino fashion designers Costume designers Filipino LGBT people LGBT Roman Catholics University of the Philippines alumni People from Manila Burials at the Manila Memorial Park – Sucat