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The term jama ( Hindustani: जामा, جام ;
]Some styles of the jama were tight around the torso but flared out like a skirt to below the knees or the ankles.
* The chakman jama, ended at around the knees. The sleeves tended to be full. The jama was fastened to either side with strings with some styles also opening at the front. What was originally male dress was also adopted by women who wore the jama with a scarf and tight fitting pajamas. The ties of the upper half of the jama are taken under the armpit and across the chest.
* ''Chakdar jama'' Jama with chaks (slits) was a particular style of jama. It was the pointed jama which was like the standard Mughal jama but the skirt fell in four to six points instead of the circular hem of the Mughal jama. This jama may be derived from the Rajput court's takauchiah and therefore could be of local origin.
* During the Sikh Empire, Sikh reign the jama was no longer flowing but shorter and often tucked up around the waist to allow freedom of movement. A similar dress, called the ''chola'', was worn by the Sikhs Gurus.
* During the 19th and 20th centuries A.D. the jama was reduced to a shirt like garment in the northern (upper) parts of British India.
*
File:The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi.jpg, The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi
File:Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II.jpg, Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II
File:Asifportrait2 - Asuf ud Daula.jpg, NAWAB OF OUDH, ASAF-UD-DAULA, LUCKNOW, INDIA, CIRCA 1785–90
File:Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad.jpg, Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad
File:Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India.jpg, Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India
File:Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh.jpg, Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh
File:The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735 Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris.jpg, The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735
File:Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas.jpg, Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas
File:The Adventures of Akbar artillery.jpg,
File:Navratri Garba.jpg, Man on the left in Gujarati jama/angarkha
Bengali
Bengali or Bengalee, or Bengalese may refer to:
*something of, from, or related to Bengal, a large region in South Asia
* Bengalis, an ethnic and linguistic group of the region
* Bengali language, the language they speak
** Bengali alphabet, the w ...
: জামা; Odia
Odia, also spelled Oriya or Odiya, may refer to:
* Odia people in Odisha, India
* Odia language, an Indian language, belonging to the Indo-Aryan branch of the Indo-European language family
* Odia alphabet, a writing system used for the Odia languag ...
: ଜାମା ) refers to a long coat which was popular in South Asia
South Asia is the southern subregion of Asia, which is defined in both geographical and ethno-cultural terms. The region consists of the countries of Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.;;;;;;;; ...
during the Mughal period
The Mughal Empire was an early-modern empire that controlled much of South Asia between the 16th and 19th centuries. Quote: "Although the first two Timurid emperors and many of their noblemen were recent migrants to the subcontinent, the d ...
.
Styles
]Some styles of the jama were tight around the torso but flared out like a skirt to below the knees or the ankles.
* The chakman jama, ended at around the knees. The sleeves tended to be full. The jama was fastened to either side with strings with some styles also opening at the front. What was originally male dress was also adopted by women who wore the jama with a scarf and tight fitting pajamas. The ties of the upper half of the jama are taken under the armpit and across the chest.
* ''Chakdar jama'' Jama with chaks (slits) was a particular style of jama. It was the pointed jama which was like the standard Mughal jama but the skirt fell in four to six points instead of the circular hem of the Mughal jama. This jama may be derived from the Rajput court's takauchiah and therefore could be of local origin.
* During the Sikh Empire, Sikh reign the jama was no longer flowing but shorter and often tucked up around the waist to allow freedom of movement. A similar dress, called the ''chola'', was worn by the Sikhs Gurus.
* During the 19th and 20th centuries A.D. the jama was reduced to a shirt like garment in the northern (upper) parts of British India.
*Farzi (coat)
''Farzi'' refers to an outer garment of the Mughal court. It was a coat with short sleeves and fur collars, opened in front. The length was shorter than Jama. Farzi was a winter's garment. Mughal emperors and courtiers were wearing it over the Jam ...
was a coat with short sleeves and fur
Fur is a thick growth of hair that covers the skin of mammals. It consists of a combination of oily guard hair on top and thick underfur beneath. The guard hair keeps moisture from reaching the skin; the underfur acts as an insulating blanket t ...
collars, opened in front. The length was shorter than Jama. Farzi was a winter's garment. Mughal emperors
The Mughal emperors ( fa, , Pādishāhān) were the supreme heads of state of the Mughal Empire on the Indian subcontinent, mainly corresponding to the modern countries of India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Bangladesh. The Mughal rulers styled t ...
and courtiers were wearing it over the Jama, fastened with a decorated piece of cloth, i.e., Katzeb
''Katzeb'' (''kamarband, Kayabandh, Cummerbund'') was an article of dress encircling the body, at the waist with ends hanging in the front. It was a kind of sash also called ''Patka''.
Name
''Katzeb'' is a compound word. The Sanskrit word ''Kat ...
around the waist area with loosely hanging ends.
*Hindu and Muslim Jamas – Hindus and Muslims were wearing the same garment with little different styles, Hindus were fastening the Jama on the left side of the body, and the Muslims tied it on the right-hand side.
''Nimjama'' ''(Neema or Nima)'' was an undergarment
Undergarments, underclothing, or underwear are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer garments from being soiled o ...
for the upper body
Body may refer to:
In science
* Physical body, an object in physics that represents a large amount, has mass or takes up space
* Body (biology), the physical material of an organism
* Body plan, the physical features shared by a group of anima ...
. The courtiers
A courtier () is a person who attends the royal court of a monarch or other royalty. The earliest historical examples of courtiers were part of the retinues of rulers. Historically the court was the centre of government as well as the official r ...
wore it underneath the costumes
Costume is the distinctive style of dress or cosmetic of an individual or group that reflects class, gender, profession, ethnicity, nationality, activity or epoch. In short costume is a cultural visual of the people.
The term also was tradition ...
, such as Jama (coat). The style was similar to a vest
A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit), or vest ( US and Canada), is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. ...
half sleeves garment. Nimajama was aided with strings to tie in front; the length was up to the knees only, shorter than the Jama. It was an indispensable part of the Mughal attire.
Photo gallery
Mughal Army
The Army of the Mughal Empire was the force by which the Mughal emperors established their empire in the 15th century and expanded it to its greatest extent at the beginning of the 18th century. Although its origins, like the Mughals themselves, ...
artillery
Artillery is a class of heavy military ranged weapons that launch munitions far beyond the range and power of infantry firearms. Early artillery development focused on the ability to breach defensive walls and fortifications during siege ...
men during the reign of Akbar
Abu'l-Fath Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar (25 October 1542 – 27 October 1605), popularly known as Akbar the Great ( fa, ), and also as Akbar I (), was the third Mughal emperor, who reigned from 1556 to 1605. Akbar succeeded his father, Hum ...
.
File:Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho).jpg, Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho)
Modern use
InGujarat
Gujarat (, ) is a state along the western coast of India. Its coastline of about is the longest in the country, most of which lies on the Kathiawar peninsula. Gujarat is the fifth-largest Indian state by area, covering some ; and the ninth ...
, the jama began to lose popularity by the end of the 19th century A.D. However, men in parts of Kutch still wear the jama also known as the angarkha
Angarkha is an outer robe with long sleeves which was worn by men in South Asia. By the 19th-century it had become the generally accepted attire of an educated man in public. It had evolved from the Persian cape ''balaba'' or ''chapkan'' as a ...
which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips. However, some styles fall to below the knees.
See also
*Dashiki
The dashiki is a colorful garment that covers the top half of the body, worn mostly in West Africa. It is also known as a Kitenge in East Africa and is a common item of clothing in Tanzania and Kenya. It has formal and informal versions and var ...
*Kaftan
A kaftan or caftan (; fa, خفتان, ) is a variant of the robe or tunic. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage, ''kaftan'' instead refers to a style of men's l ...
*Robe
A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word ''robe'' derives from Middle English ''robe'' ("garment"), borrowed from Old French ''robe'' ("booty, spoils" ...
*Tunic
A tunic is a garment for the body, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the knees. The name derives from the Latin ''tunica'', the basic garment worn by both men and women in Ancient Rome ...
*Terlig
Terlig, also known as () or () or () in Chinese, or commonly referred as Mongol dress or plait-line robe, is an archetypal type of Mongol clothing for men.
The terlig was initially developed to accommodate the culture, the equestrian and noma ...
*Angarkha
Angarkha is an outer robe with long sleeves which was worn by men in South Asia. By the 19th-century it had become the generally accepted attire of an educated man in public. It had evolved from the Persian cape ''balaba'' or ''chapkan'' as a ...
*Kurta
A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
*Katzeb
''Katzeb'' (''kamarband, Kayabandh, Cummerbund'') was an article of dress encircling the body, at the waist with ends hanging in the front. It was a kind of sash also called ''Patka''.
Name
''Katzeb'' is a compound word. The Sanskrit word ''Kat ...
*Farzi (coat)
''Farzi'' refers to an outer garment of the Mughal court. It was a coat with short sleeves and fur collars, opened in front. The length was shorter than Jama. Farzi was a winter's garment. Mughal emperors and courtiers were wearing it over the Jam ...
References
{{Punjabi clothing Mughal clothing