Iddesleigh
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Iddesleigh is a village and
civil parish In England, a civil parish is a type of administrative parish used for local government. It is a territorial designation which is the lowest tier of local government below districts and counties, or their combined form, the unitary authorit ...
in the county of
Devon Devon ( , historically known as Devonshire , ) is a ceremonial and non-metropolitan county in South West England. The most populous settlement in Devon is the city of Plymouth, followed by Devon's county town, the city of Exeter. Devo ...
, England. The settlement has ancient origins and is listed in the ''
Domesday Book Domesday Book () – the Middle English spelling of "Doomsday Book" – is a manuscript record of the "Great Survey" of much of England and parts of Wales completed in 1086 by order of King William I, known as William the Conqueror. The manusc ...
''. The village lies on the B3217 road, roughly central in its parish of around , about north of the town of
Okehampton Okehampton ( ) is a town and civil parish in West Devon in the English county of Devon. It is situated at the northern edge of Dartmoor, and had a population of 5,922 at the 2011 census. Two electoral wards are based in the town (east and w ...
. Iddesleigh has been described as an attractive small village, with good views of Dartmoor to the south. Its church is a grade I
listed building In the United Kingdom, a listed building or listed structure is one that has been placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, Historic Environment Scotland in Scotland, in Wales, and the Northern I ...
and there are a number of other listed buildings in the parish.


Toponymy and early history

The name ''Iddesleigh'' derives from the
Old English Old English (, ), or Anglo-Saxon, is the earliest recorded form of the English language, spoken in England and southern and eastern Scotland in the early Middle Ages. It was brought to Great Britain by Anglo-Saxon settlers in the mid-5th ...
personal name, ''Ēadwīġ'' (or perhaps ''Ēadwulf''), and ''lēah'', a wood or clearing. The first documentary evidence of the settlement appears in the ''
Domesday Book Domesday Book () – the Middle English spelling of "Doomsday Book" – is a manuscript record of the "Great Survey" of much of England and parts of Wales completed in 1086 by order of King William I, known as William the Conqueror. The manusc ...
'' (1086), where it is referred to twice, as ''Edeslege'' and as ''Iweslei''. By the 13th century its name was recorded as ''Edulvesly'' and in 1428 as ''Yeddeslegh''. ''Domesday Book'' shows that in 1086 the majority of the manor of Iddesleigh (under the name of ''Edeslege'') was owned directly by the king, but a small part of it (one virgate recorded as ''Iweslei'') was held from the king by William of Claville. The pre-conquest owner of this land is unclear: two women's names – Alware Pet and Aelfeva Thief – are recorded. The
overlord An overlord in the English feudal system was a lord of a manor who had subinfeudated a particular manor, estate or fee, to a tenant. The tenant thenceforth owed to the overlord one of a variety of services, usually military service or ser ...
is recorded as
Brictric son of Algar Brictric was a powerful Saxon thegn whose many English landholdings, mostly in the West Country, are recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086. Life According to the account by the ''Continuator of Wace'' and others, in his youth Brictric declined the ...
. ''Edeslege'' is discussed on page 1,63 and ''Iweslei'' on page 24,22. By the 13th century the lands had passed to the de Reigny family as part of the
honour Honour (British English) or honor (American English; see spelling differences) is the idea of a bond between an individual and a society as a quality of a person that is both of social teaching and of personal ethos, that manifests itself as a ...
of Gloucester.


Geography

The village is north-east of
Hatherleigh Hatherleigh is a small market town in west Devon, England. It hosts an arts festival in July, and a carnival in November featuring two flaming tar barrel runs. The Walruses meet on New Year's Day to jump into the River Lew to raise money for ...
and north of
Okehampton Okehampton ( ) is a town and civil parish in West Devon in the English county of Devon. It is situated at the northern edge of Dartmoor, and had a population of 5,922 at the 2011 census. Two electoral wards are based in the town (east and w ...
. It is roughly in the centre of its parish, on the B3217 road that runs from Okehampton to Atherington, near the A377. The parish, which covers about on the
Culm Measures The Culm Measures are a thick sequence of geological strata originating during the Carboniferous Period that occur in south-west England, principally in Devon and Cornwall, now known as the Culm Supergroup. Its estimated thickness varies between ...
, has its southern border along the
River Okement The River Okement is a tributary of the River Torridge in Devon, England. It used to be known as the River Ock. It rises at two places in Dartmoor, as the West Okement and the East Okement. These meet with other minor streams and join toge ...
and its western along the
River Torridge The River Torridge is a river in Devon in England; it rises near Meddon. The river describes a long loop through Devon farming country where its tributaries the Lew and Okement join before meeting the Taw at Appledore and flowing into the Bristo ...
. Clockwise from the north, it is bordered by the parishes of Dowland,
Winkleigh Winkleigh is a civil parish and small village in Devon, England. It is part of the local government area of Torridge District Council. The population of the parish at the 2011 census was 1,305, compared to 1,079 in 1901. The population of the ...
,
Broadwoodkelly Broadwoodkelly is a village and civil parish in the West Devon district of Devon, England. According to the 2001 census it had a population of 218. The village is situated about north of Okehampton. Much of the church is 15th century, but ...
, Monkokehampton,
Hatherleigh Hatherleigh is a small market town in west Devon, England. It hosts an arts festival in July, and a carnival in November featuring two flaming tar barrel runs. The Walruses meet on New Year's Day to jump into the River Lew to raise money for ...
and Meeth. In 2001, the population of the parish was 198, down from 335 in 1901, and 441 in 1801.


The village

The landscape historian
W. G. Hoskins William George Hoskins (22 May 1908 – 11 January 1992) was an English local historian who founded the first university department of English Local History. His great contribution to the study of history was in the field of landscape history ...
, writing in 1953, described the village as "an excellent example of a cob and thatch village, most attractive to explore", and in 1973 S. H. Burton wrote that it gave the appearance of being " thatchier" than anywhere else in Devon. Situated on a south-facing slope, the village has good views of northern Dartmoor, including its highest point, High Willhays. The Church of St James, the parish church, is at the western edge of the village, and is a grade I
listed building In the United Kingdom, a listed building or listed structure is one that has been placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, Historic Environment Scotland in Scotland, in Wales, and the Northern I ...
. With 13th-century origins, but mostly dating from the 15th century, it has
wagon roof A barrel vault, also known as a tunnel vault, wagon vault or wagonhead vault, is an architectural element formed by the extrusion of a single curve (or pair of curves, in the case of a pointed barrel vault) along a given distance. The curves are ...
s in its
nave The nave () is the central part of a church, stretching from the (normally western) main entrance or rear wall, to the transepts, or in a church without transepts, to the chancel. When a church contains side aisles, as in a basilica-typ ...
and north
aisle An aisle is, in general, a space for walking with rows of non-walking spaces on both sides. Aisles with seating on both sides can be seen in airplanes, certain types of buildings, such as churches, cathedrals, synagogues, meeting halls, pa ...
. A recumbent effigy of a knight with a plain shield, lying under an arch has been dated to and is believed to be of a squire of Iddesleigh, a member of the locally-notable Sully family. The church was partly rebuilt in 1720 with further work in the early 19th century, followed by restoration by Charles S. Adye in 1878–9. The listed village pub, the "Duke of York", is made of cob and thatch, and is slightly hidden from the main road being along a side street behind some terraced cottages. Its facade was used in the BBC television series '' Down to Earth'', broadcast in 2000. It was in this pub that
Michael Morpurgo Sir Michael Andrew Bridge Morpurgo (''né'' Bridge; 5 October 1943) is an English book author, poet, playwright, and librettist who is known best for children's novels such as '' War Horse'' (1982). His work is noted for its "magical storytelli ...
says he talked to an old soldier with first-hand knowledge of the use of horses in the First World War which became the basis for his 1982 novel '' War Horse''., the village was also used as inspiration for the Michael Morpurgo novel, Private Peaceful. In July 2021, the
Prince of Wales Prince of Wales ( cy, Tywysog Cymru, ; la, Princeps Cambriae/Walliae) is a title traditionally given to the heir apparent to the English and later British throne. Prior to the conquest by Edward I in the 13th century, it was used by the rule ...
visited the pub, meeting Sir Michael and Lady Morpurgo.


Landmarks

Ash House, a grade II listed building in the south of the parish, was the seat of the Mallet family from 1530 to 1881. It was later bought by the founders of the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. There has been a settlement at Barwick, in the south-east corner of the parish, since at least the early 15th century: a document dated 1440 refers to it as ''Berewyke''. There are two listed buildings here. Little Barwick is a late 15th-century building with 17th-century and later alterations—its most notable feature is its medieval full cruck trusses, unusual in Devon. South Barwick Farmhouse dates from the first part of the 17th century. Barwick had a
stud farm A stud farm or stud in animal husbandry is an establishment for selective breeding of livestock. The word " stud" comes from the Old English ''stod'' meaning "herd of horses, place where horses are kept for breeding". Historically, documentation ...
breeding
shire horse The Shire is a British breed of draught horse. It is usually black, bay, or grey. It is a tall breed, and Shires have at various times held world records both for the largest horse and for the tallest horse. The Shire has a great capacity for ...
s before World War I. The "Barwick Madam" was noted in the local shire horse stud book. The Tarka Trail, a series of footpaths and cycle routes radiating from
Barnstaple Barnstaple ( or ) is a river-port town in North Devon, England, at the River Taw's lowest crossing point before the Bristol Channel. From the 14th century, it was licensed to export wool and won great wealth. Later it imported Irish wool, bu ...
, passes from north to south through the parish, taking in the village.
Ordnance Survey Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of 1745. There was a ...
Explorer Map 113 (2009)


Notable people

The Reverend Jack Russell, originator of the eponymous dog breed, was curate at Iddesleigh between 1830 and 1836. In 1885, when Sir
Stafford Northcote Stafford Henry Northcote, 1st Earl of Iddesleigh (27 October 1818 – 12 January 1887), known as Sir Stafford Northcote, Bt from 1851 to 1885, was a British Conservative politician. He served as Chancellor of the Exchequer between 1874 and 1 ...
was raised to the peerage, he took the title of Earl of Iddesleigh, which was, according to W. G. Hoskins, a curious choice since his main estates were not here. He did, however, own some of the parish. The Scottish-born poet, Seán Rafferty lived in the parish from 1948 until his death in December 1993; he was landlord of the Duke of York pub until 1975. Rafferty was a friend of author
Michael Morpurgo Sir Michael Andrew Bridge Morpurgo (''né'' Bridge; 5 October 1943) is an English book author, poet, playwright, and librettist who is known best for children's novels such as '' War Horse'' (1982). His work is noted for its "magical storytelli ...
, who has lived in Iddesleigh since the 1970s. In his book ''
Private Peaceful ''Private Peaceful'' is a novel for older children by British author Michael Morpurgo first published in 2003. It is about a fictional young soldier called Thomas "Tommo" Peaceful, who is looking back on his life from the trenches of World Wa ...
'', the village is the home of the protagonist, Tommo, and it is one of the main settings for the book. In 1976 Morpurgo and his wife, Clare, set up the
Farms for City Children Farms for City Children is a UK registered charity which aims to provide experience of farm and countryside life for over 3,200 inner-city children per year. Foundation In 1976 author Michael Morpurgo and his wife, Clare Morpurgo (the oldest da ...
charity which is based at Nethercott House in the parish. Poet
Ted Hughes Edward James "Ted" Hughes (17 August 1930 – 28 October 1998) was an English poet, translator, and children's writer. Critics frequently rank him as one of the best poets of his generation and one of the twentieth century's greatest wri ...
who lived nearby was a close friend and regular visitor to the Morpurgos and became the first president of the charity.


References

{{authority control Villages in Devon Former manors in Devon