Henry Morton Stanley's first trans-Africa exploration
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Between 1874 and 1877 Henry Morton Stanley traveled
Central Africa Central Africa is a subregion of the African continent comprising various countries according to different definitions. Angola, Burundi, the Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Republic of the Congo ...
east to west, exploring Lake Victoria, Lake Tanganyika and the Lualaba and Congo rivers. He covered from
Zanzibar Zanzibar (; ; ) is an insular semi-autonomous province which united with Tanganyika in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania. It is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of the mainland, and consists of many small islan ...
in the east to Boma at the mouth of the Congo in the west. The expedition resolved several open questions concerning the geography of Central Africa, including identifying the source of the
Nile The Nile, , Bohairic , lg, Kiira , Nobiin: Áman Dawū is a major north-flowing river in northeastern Africa. It flows into the Mediterranean Sea. The Nile is the longest river in Africa and has historically been considered the longest ...
, which he proved was not the Lualabab and is in fact the source of the Congo River.


Previous African journey

This was Stanley's second journey in central Africa. In 1871–72 he had searched for and successfully found the missionary and explorer
David Livingstone David Livingstone (; 19 March 1813 – 1 May 1873) was a Scottish physician, Congregationalist, and pioneer Christian missionary with the London Missionary Society, an explorer in Africa, and one of the most popular British heroes of t ...
. In his publications, Stanley described greeting him with the famous words: "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?", but his report in this is disputed.


Objectives

Stanley's journey had four principal aims, to: # Explore Lake Victoria and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore Lake Albert and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore Lake Tanganyika, determining the direction of flow of the
Ruzizi River The Ruzizi (also sometimes spelled Rusizi) is a river, long, that flows from Lake Kivu to Lake Tanganyika in Central Africa, descending from about to about above sea level over its length. The steepest gradients occur over the first , where h ...
at the north end of the lake # Explore the
Lualaba River The Lualaba River flows entirely within the eastern Democratic Republic of the Congo. It provides the greatest streamflow to the Congo River, while the source of the Congo is recognized as the Chambeshi. The Lualaba is long. Its headwaters are i ...
downstream towards its outflow There was controversy among earlier explorers as to whether these lakes and rivers were connected to each other and the Nile.
Richard Burton Richard Burton (; born Richard Walter Jenkins Jr.; 10 November 1925 – 5 August 1984) was a Welsh actor. Noted for his baritone voice, Burton established himself as a formidable Shakespearean actor in the 1950s, and he gave a memorable pe ...
thought that Lake Victoria might have a southern inlet, possibly from Lake Albert, meaning that the source of the Nile was not Lake Victoria as explorer
John Speke Captain John Hanning Speke (4 May 1827 – 15 September 1864) was an English explorer and officer in the British Indian Army who made three exploratory expeditions to Africa. He is most associated with the search for the source of the Nile ...
had argued.
Samuel Baker Sir Samuel White Baker, KCB, FRS, FRGS (8 June 1821 – 30 December 1893) was an English explorer, officer, naturalist, big game hunter, engineer, writer and abolitionist. He also held the titles of Pasha and Major-General in the Ottom ...
thought that Lake Albert might have an inlet from Lake Tanganyika. Livingstone thought that Lualaba was the source of the Nile. Being sponsored by the '' New York Herald''—at the instigation of editor
James Gordon Bennett Jr. James Gordon Bennett Jr. (May 10, 1841May 14, 1918) was publisher of the ''New York Herald'', founded by his father, James Gordon Bennett Sr. (1795–1872), who emigrated from Scotland. He was generally known as Gordon Bennett to distinguish him ...
—and ''The'' ''Daily Telegraph'' newspapers, Stanley he was expected to write dispatches for them. He subsequently wrote a book of his experiences, ''Through the Dark Continent''.


Preparations

On September 21, 1874, Stanley arrived in
Zanzibar Zanzibar (; ; ) is an insular semi-autonomous province which united with Tanganyika in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania. It is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of the mainland, and consists of many small islan ...
. He took with him three young Englishmen, Frederick Barker and the brothers Francis and Edward Pocock, and Kalulu, an African he had taken to England on his earlier trip and who was educated briefly in England. He also took 60 pounds of cloth, copper wire and beads (Sami Sami) for trading, a
barometer A barometer is a scientific instrument that is used to measure air pressure in a certain environment. Pressure tendency can forecast short term changes in the weather. Many measurements of air pressure are used within surface weather analysis ...
, watches and chronometers, sextant, compasses, photographic equipment, Snider rifles and
elephant gun An elephant gun is a large caliber gun, rifled or smoothbore, originally developed for use by big-game hunters for elephant and other large game. Elephant guns were black powder muzzle-loaders at first, then black powder express rifles, the ...
(s), and the parts of a boat with single sail built by James Messenger. He named it the ''Lady Alice'' after his fiancée. In Zanzibar he recruited African porters to a total of 230 people, including 36 women and 10 boys. He recruited mainly from the Wangwana, Wanyamwezi and coast people from
Mombasa Mombasa ( ; ) is a coastal city in southeastern Kenya along the Indian Ocean. It was the first capital of the British East Africa, before Nairobi was elevated to capital city status. It now serves as the capital of Mombasa County. The town is ...
.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G. Newnes, Vol. One , Vol. Two On November 12 he left in Zanzibar for the mainland. Five days later he left from Bagamoyo. After fighting with Wanyaturu, they reached Lake Victoria on February 27, 1875, having traveled in 103 days. Sixty-two members of the party died en route, including Edward Pocock.


Circumnavigation of Lake Victoria

On March 8 Stanley, with ten sailors and a steersman, left his camp site near Kageghi in ''Lady Alice''. They explored and named Speke Bay, after the first European to see the lake. They also discovered the Simiyu River inlet in the south. Passing
Ukerewe Island Ukerewe is the fifth-largest lake island in the world. With an area of , it is also the largest island in Lake Victoria and the largest lake island in Africa. Ukerewe Island is located in the Ukerewe District of Mwanza Region in the great la ...
, he was attacked by Wavuma people in canoes but escaped after firing at his attackers. On April 4 he landed on the northern bank near the
Ripon Falls Ripon Falls at the northern end of Lake Victoria in Uganda was formerly considered the source of the river Nile. In 1862–3 John Hanning Speke Captain John Hanning Speke (4 May 1827 – 15 September 1864) was an English explorer and offi ...
, the only outlet of the lake, which had been identified as the source of the Nile by Speke. He was received as a royal guest by Muteesa I of Buganda. Stanley wrote that Buganda would be an ideal country to establish missions and for European trade. On April 21 Stanley's party headed further southward. First they reached the inlet of the
Kagera River The Kagera River, also known as Akagera River, or Alexandra Nile, is an East African river, forming part of the upper headwaters of the Nile and carrying water from its most distant source.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G ...
, which they would later explore on their way to Lake Albert. In an attempt to get supplies of food, they landed on the island of Bumbireh. The local inhabitants alternated peace talks with thefts and threats, and stole their canoe paddles. Ultimately the crew escaped, killing some locals in the process. Later Stanley wrote that he killed 10 (and elsewhere 14) in his dispatches to newspapers. This would later be used to traduce his character as a ruthless killer. Why he misstated the number of deaths is not clear; his biographer Tim Jeal has tried to clarify. On May 5, the party arrived back in Kagehyi and rejoined the main group. In the meantime Barker had died of disease, as had Mabuki Speke (who was on earlier travels with Livingstone, Speke, James Grant, and Burton). Stanley had spent 57 days exploring Lake Victoria. His detailed measurements and descriptions led to a major revision of its geography. He established that the Kagera River was its main inflow, and that it was above sea level, with a maximum depth of .


Lake Albert

Stanley intended to explore Lake Albert next. However, war between Uganda and Wavuma forced him either to "renounce the project of exploring the Albert, and proceed at once to the Tanganika...or to wait patiently until the war was over." After the war ended with an Ugandan victory, however, his expedition was thwarted by Kabarega, king of the
Bunyoro Bunyoro or Bunyoro-Kitara is a Bantu kingdom in Western Uganda. It was one of the most powerful kingdoms in Central and East Africa from the 13th century to the 19th century. It is ruled by the King ('' Omukama'') of Bunyoro-Kitara. The cur ...
.


Lake Tanganyika

On May 27, 1876, the party arrived in
Ujiji Ujiji is a historic town located in Kigoma-Ujiji District of Kigoma Region in Tanzania. The town is the oldest in western Tanzania. In 1900, the population was estimated at 10,000 and in 1967 about 41,000. The site is a registered National His ...
on the shore of Lake Tanganyika, the village where Stanley had famously met Livingstone a few years before. Their objective was to survey the lake, seeking inlets and outlets. By July 31 the of the lake perimeter was charted. Its main outlet was found to be the
Lukuga River The Lukuga River is a tributary of the Lualaba River in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) that drains Lake Tanganyika. It is unusual in that its flow varies not just seasonally but also due to longer term climate fluctuations. Location ...
on the western shore. The depth of the lake was measured to be in excess of .


Rivers Lualaba and Congo

The final objective was to determine whether the Lualaba River fed the Nile, the Congo or even the Niger. On August 25, 1876, Stanley left Ujiji with an expedition of 132, crossing the lake westward to Manyema, to enter the heart of Africa. In October they reached the confluence of the
Luama River The Luama River is a tributary of the Lualaba River in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). Location The Luama rises in the mountains to the west of Lake Tanganyika, in the Kalemie Territory of Tanganyika District. It flows north and nor ...
and the Lualaba River. Entering Manyema, they were in a lawless area containing cannibal tribes.
Tippu Tip Tippu Tip, or Tippu Tib (1832 – June 14, 1905), real name Ḥamad ibn Muḥammad ibn Jumʿah ibn Rajab ibn Muḥammad ibn Saʿīd al Murjabī ( ar, حمد بن محمد بن جمعة بن رجب بن محمد بن سعيد المرجبي), ...
based his source of slaves here. Also, Livingstone had witnessed a massacre of Africans here and did not succeed in getting any further. Nor had Vernon Cameron in 1874. However Stanley reached a contract with Tippu Tip, in which they agreed to accompany each other for "sixty marches-each march of four hours' duration." They reached
Nyangwe Nyangwe is a town in Kasongo, Maniema on the right bank of the Lualaba River, Lualaba in the Democratic Republic of Congo (territory of Kasongo). It was an important hub for the Arabs for trade goods like ivory, gold, iron & slaves: it was one of ...
on October 28. The party left Nyangwe overland and entered the dense Matimba forest on November 6. On November 19 they reached the Lualaba again where Stanley proceeded downstream with ''Lady Alice'', and Tippu Tip kept pace on the eastern shore. They traversed through the lands of the cannibal Wenya. Though he attempted to negotiate a peaceful thoroughfare, the tribes were wary as their only experience of outsiders was of slave traders. They reached
Kindu Kindu is a city in the Democratic Republic of Congo, the capital of Maniema province. It has a population of about 200,000 and is situated on the Lualaba River at an altitude of about 500 metres, and is about 400 km west of Bukavu. Kindu ...
on December 5, 1876, but it was not until they reached Vinya-Njara that Stanley could conclude a " blood-brotherhood" with the natives and peace ensued. Tippu Tip left Stanley at this point, while Stanley departed downstream on December 28 with 149 men, women and children on 23 canoes. On January 6, 1877, after , they reached
Boyoma Falls Boyoma Falls, formerly known as Stanley Falls, is a series of seven cataracts, each no more than high, extending over more than along a curve of the Lualaba River between the river port towns of Ubundu and Kisangani (also known as Boyoma) in t ...
(called Stanley Falls for some time after), consisting of seven cataracts spanning , and the confluence of the
Lomami River The Lomami River is a major tributary of the Congo River in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The river is approximately long. It flows north, west of and parallel to the upper Congo. The Lomami rises in the south of the country, near Kamina ...
. It took them until January 28 to reach the end of the falls, sometimes passing overland and having to defend themselves from attacks by the cannibal natives. Stanley reached the confluence of the Aruwimi River on February 1 and then the land of the Bemberri cannibals. Finally at the village of Rubunga, they were able to enter into a blood-brotherhood with the natives. Here Stanley learned that the river was called ''Ikuta ya Kongo'', proving to him that he had reached the Congo, and that the Lualaba did not feed the Nile. Stanley was then attacked by the Urangi and then the Marunja, both of whom possessed Portuguese muskets. His thirty-first fight along the river was with the Bangala on February 14, facing 63 canoes and 315 muskets. On February 18 they reached the confluence of the Ikelemba River and were able to trade at Ikengo. By February 26 they reached Bolobo, where they were welcomed by the king of Chumbiri. They reached the confluence of the Lefini River and the
Kasai River The Kasai River ( ; called Cassai in Angola) is a tributary (left side) of the Congo River, located in Central Africa. The river begins in central Angola and flows to the east until it reaches the border between Angola and the Democratic Repub ...
with the Congo on March 9. This was the location of their thirty-second and last fight. On March 12, they reached Stanley Pool (now
Pool Malebo The Pool Malebo, formerly Stanley Pool, also known as Mpumbu, Lake Nkunda or Lake Nkuna by local indigenous people in pre-colonial times, is a lake-like widening in the lower reaches of the Congo River.
). Here Stanley met with Mankoneh, the
Bateke The Teke people or Bateke, also known as the Tyo or Tio, are a Bantu Central African ethnic group that speak the Teke languages and that mainly inhabit the south, north, and center of the Republic of the Congo, the west of the Democratic Republi ...
chief and Itsi, chief of the Ntamo, forming a blood-brotherhood. This is the site of the present day cities Kinshasa and Brazzaville, capitals of the
Democratic Republic of the Congo The Democratic Republic of the Congo (french: République démocratique du Congo (RDC), colloquially "La RDC" ), informally Congo-Kinshasa, DR Congo, the DRC, the DROC, or the Congo, and formerly and also colloquially Zaire, is a country in ...
and the Republic of the Congo. Further downstream were the
Livingstone Falls Livingstone Falls (French: ''Chutes Livingstone''; Dutch: ''Livingstonewatervallen''), named for British explorer David Livingstone, are a succession of enormous rapids on the lower course of the Congo River in west equatorial Africa, downs ...
, downstream from Nyangwe, a series of 32 falls and rapids with a fall of over . On March 16 they started the descent of the falls, which cost numerous lives, including those of Frank Pocock and Kalulu, his England-educated servant. On 30 July, Stanley stated, "We drew our boat and canoes into a sandy-edged basin in the low rocky terrace, and proceeded to view the cataract of Isangila." Only five days' journey from Boma, Stanley stated, "I saw no reason to follow it farther, or to expend the little remaining vitality we possessed in toiling through the last four cataracts." On August 3 they reached the village of Nsanda. From there Stanley sent forward four trusted men to Boma with letters in English, French and Spanish, asking them to send food for his starving people. On August 6 relief came, being sent by representatives from the Liverpool trading firm Hatton & Cookson. August 9 they reached Boma, 999 days since leaving Zanzibar on November 12, 1874. The party then consisted of 115 people, including three children born during the trip. Most probably (Stanley's own publications give inconsistent figures), he lost 132 people through disease, hunger, drowning, killing and desertion. Some 18 deserted, a low figure given the dangers of the country they had crossed.Jeal, 2007 p. 217.


Return

In Boma he mailed his editor Bennett in New York to send money for his party and arrange homeward travel. He also learned through his publisher that his fiancée Alice had married another man. They left Boma for
Kabinda Kabinda is the capital city of Lomami Province in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Projected to be the second fastest growing African continent city between 2020 and 2025, with a 6.37% growth. Geography Kabinda is served by Tunta Airpor ...
, arriving on August 12. Eventually the party went to
Luanda Luanda () is the Capital (political), capital and largest city in Angola. It is Angola's primary port, and its major Angola#Economy, industrial, Angola#Culture, cultural and Angola#Demographics, urban centre. Located on Angola's northern Atl ...
, Angola, arriving on September 28. From there they went on to
Simon's Town Simon's Town ( af, Simonstad), sometimes spelled Simonstown, is a town in the Western Cape, South Africa and is home to  Naval Base Simon's Town, the South African Navy's largest base. It is located on the shores of False Bay, on the eastern ...
on October 21, and finally Zanzibar, via HMS ''Industry'', arriving on November 26. On December 13, Stanley left Zanzibar on SS ''Pachumba'' for home, being carried on his men's shoulders to the longboat ferrying him to the ship. In articles about his discoveries he urged Western powers to organise trade with Central Africa and reduce the slave trade in the interior. Stanley's book ''Through the Dark Continent'', describing his journey, was published in 1878 and was a great success.


Notes


References

* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Stanley, Trans-Africa Henry Morton Stanley Lake Victoria Lake Tanganyika Lualaba River Congo River New York Herald 1870s in Africa 1874 in Africa 1877 in Africa