Gopalpur is a village known for producing Tussar silk, Tussar fabrics. It is in Jajpur District in the Indian state of Odisha. This handicraft received the Geographical Indication tag by the Government of India in 2009. Tussar textiles are related to dhoti, joda, Shawl stole (shawl), stole, scarves and saris.

Process

The process starts with drafting and crafting

Thread

Females usually assist in reeling the tussar threads holding 'natai' in their right hand and unwinding the thread around the Pupa#Cocoon, cocoons with their other hand. Twisting the filament, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra warp with a 'bandha' pattern in hand. The embellishments increase the value of the fabric. Alternatively, reeling machines are available.

Spinning

Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki to fill the bobins (nali) for weft with the help of a spinning wheel (charakha). ''Gandhi charakha'' or wooden charakha have been replaced by a metal part.

Weaving

Fabric is woven using a 'cut Shuttle (weaving), shuttle technique', in which shuttles interlock with one another to form ''foda kumbh''a in the weft direction. Shuttles on both sides interlock with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabric. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple productions.

Design

Threads are dyed in different shades, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha and enhanced with a weft and cut shuttle technique.

Industry

Fabrics are mainly marketed by PWCS and SHGs traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders. Sales also take place at exhibitions and in local markets. According to a 2013-14 survey, 745 looms operate in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for income.

References

{{Odia culture Geographical indications in Odisha Textile arts of India