Georgina von Etzdorf
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Georgina von Etzdorf ( RDI) (born 1 January 1955) is a British
textile Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the ...
designer A designer is a person who plans the form or structure of something before it is made, by preparing drawings or plans. In practice, anyone who creates tangible or intangible objects, products, processes, laws, games, graphics, services, or exp ...
whose eponymous
fashion label Fashion design is the Art (skill), art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its Fashion accessory, accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and plac ...
was renowned for its luxurious
velvet Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
scarves A scarf, plural ''scarves'', is a piece of fabric worn around the neck or head for warmth, sun protection, cleanliness, fashion, religious reasons, or used to show the support for a sports club or team. They can be made in a variety of diffe ...
and clothing accessories.


Early life

Etzdorf was born in 1955 in
Lima Lima ( ; ), originally founded as Ciudad de Los Reyes (City of The Kings) is the capital and the largest city of Peru. It is located in the valleys of the Chillón, Rímac and Lurín Rivers, in the desert zone of the central coastal part of ...
,
Peru , image_flag = Flag of Peru.svg , image_coat = Escudo nacional del Perú.svg , other_symbol = Great Seal of the State , other_symbol_type = National seal , national_motto = "Firm and Happy f ...
, to a
Prussia Prussia, , Old Prussian: ''Prūsa'' or ''Prūsija'' was a German state on the southeast coast of the Baltic Sea. It formed the German Empire under Prussian rule when it united the German states in 1871. It was ''de facto'' dissolved by an ...
n father and an
English English usually refers to: * English language * English people English may also refer to: Peoples, culture, and language * ''English'', an adjective for something of, from, or related to England ** English national ide ...
mother. She lived in Peru until the age of five, when her family returned to Britain. She has often claimed that her early years in Peru strongly influenced her dynamic sense of colour and texture. Etzdorf studied textile design at
Camberwell School of Art Camberwell College of Arts is a public tertiary art school in Camberwell, in London, England. It is one of the six constituent colleges of the University of the Arts London. It offers further and higher education programmes, including postgrad ...
in London, graduating in 1977. At Camberwell she met Martin Simcock, who later joined her as one of the co-founders and partners of the Georgina von Etzdorf label. The third co-founder and partner was Jonathan Docherty, who studied industrial design at the
Central School of Art and Design The Central School of Art and Design was a public school of fine and applied arts in London, England. It offered foundation and degree level courses. It was established in 1896 by the London County Council as the Central School of Arts and ...
in London and who had been a school friend of Simcock's


Career

Etzdorf spent several years as a freelance designer before she, Simcock, and Docherty founded the Georgina von Etzdorf Partnership in 1981, basing themselves originally in a garage and stable at Etzdorf’s parents’ house, where they set up a
silk screen printing Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the coc ...
workshop. Their plan was originally to produce fabric for third-party fashion houses, but they took the decision to produce in-house because of their failure to find commercial printers willing to adapt their processes to the challenge of printing Etzdorf’s designs. In 1984 the Georgina von Etzdorf fashion label made its first appearance at the autumn London Designer shows previewing accessories, scarves and ties. In 1985, the partnership produced its first full clothing collection. In 1986 Georgina von Etzdorf opened a first London shop in
Burlington Arcade Burlington Arcade is a covered shopping arcade in London, England, United Kingdom. It is long, parallel to and east of Bond Street from Piccadilly through to Burlington Gardens. It is one of the precursors of the mid-19th-century European sh ...
, and a second 1988 on
Sloane Street Sloane Street is a major London street in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea which runs north to south, from Knightsbridge to Sloane Square, crossing Pont Street about halfway along. History Sloane Street takes its name from Sir H ...
in Chelsea. By the mid-1990s the company was selling in 400 shops in 25 countries around the world, and had a concession in both Barney’s in New York and
Selfridges Selfridges, also known as Selfridges & Co., is a chain of high-end department stores in the United Kingdom that is operated by Selfridges Retail Limited, part of the Selfridges Group of department stores. It was founded by Harry Gordon Selfridg ...
in London. In addition to its signature scarves and ties, the company diversified into a wide range of men’s and women’s wear, such as dinner jackets, dressing gowns, sleepwear, shoes, gloves, belts, hats, and also household items such as kelims and cushions. As the company expanded its product range it also entered into an increasing number of collaborations, including hats with Gabriella Ligenza, shoes with Emma Hope and rugs with Christopher Farr. Although famed for its velvet scarves – which innovated the use of velvet as daywear – Georgina von Etzdorf was also widely admired for its skill in printing and experimenting with texture and technique on what are considered more difficult fabrics such as textured chiffon and organza, mohair, fine cashmeres, satin, rayon fur, chenille and wool boucle as well as using complex techniques such as devore, laser printing, and leather and plastic printing. Georgina von Etzdorf products have been worn and sought after by rock stars and royalty. On one occasion, the
EMI EMI Group Limited (originally an initialism for Electric and Musical Industries, also referred to as EMI Records Ltd. or simply EMI) was a British Transnational corporation, transnational Conglomerate (company), conglomerate founded in March 1 ...
record label in the UK gave 58 of its key artists – including
The Rolling Stones The Rolling Stones are an English Rock music, rock band formed in London in 1962. Active for six decades, they are one of the most popular and enduring bands of the album era, rock era. In the early 1960s, the Rolling Stones pioneered the g ...
, Janet Jackson,
Robbie Williams Robert Peter Williams (born 13 February 1974) is an English singer and songwriter. He found fame as a member of the pop group Take That from 1990 to 1995, and achieved commercial success after launching a solo career in 1996. His debut stud ...
and the Pet Shop Boys - Georgina von Etzdorf dressing gowns for Christmas. Diana, Princess of Wales was famously photographed wearing a Donald Campbell dress made from Etzdorf’s Poppy design.


Awards

Etzdorf was appointed a
Royal Designer for Industry Royal Designer for Industry is a distinction established by the British Royal Society of Arts (RSA) in 1936, to encourage a high standard of industrial design and enhance the status of designers. It is awarded to people who have achieved "sustaine ...
(RDI) by the Royal Society of Arts in 1997. In 1996 she was awarded an honorary Doctorate of Design by
Winchester School of Art Winchester School of Art is the art school of the University of Southampton, situated 10 miles (14 km) north of Southampton in the city of Winchester near the south coast of England. History The Winchester School of Art was founded in 187 ...
. She was made an Honorary Fellow of the
University of the Arts, London University of the Arts London is a collegiate university in London, England, specialising in arts, design, fashion and the performing arts. It is a federation of six arts colleges: Camberwell College of Arts, Central Saint Martins, Chelsea Col ...
in 1999. Among many industry awards are the BBC Radio 4 Enterprise Award for Small Businesses (1984), British Apparel Export Award (1986), the Manchester Prize for Art and Industry, British Gas Award (1988). In 2006 the company was honoured by a 25-year retrospective exhibition at Manchester City Art Gallery.


Personal

In her spare time Georgina von Etzdorf is an accomplished
ukulele The ukulele ( ; from haw, ukulele , approximately ), also called Uke, is a member of the lute family of instruments of Portuguese origin and popularized in Hawaii. It generally employs four nylon strings. The tone and volume of the instrumen ...
player. She is also an enthusiastic supporter and participant in the Singing for the Brain project, instigated and developed by the Alzheimer’s Society. In February 2011, Etzdorf was one of a group of designers asked to design and furnish a bedouin-style tent set up at the
Eden Project The Eden Project ( kw, Edenva) is a visitor attraction in Cornwall, England, UK. The project is located in a reclaimed china clay pit, located from the town of St Blazey and from the larger town of St Austell.Ordnance Survey (2005). ''OS ...
in Cornwall, to publicise the work of the charity
Shelterbox ShelterBox is an international disaster relief charity established in 2000 in Helston, Cornwall, UK, that provides emergency shelter and other aid items to families around the world who have lost their homes to disaster or conflict. Shelt ...
, which provides emergency shelter and disaster relief.Angus Montgomery
Inside Eden
''Designweek.co.uk'', 24 February 2011


References


Further reading

* “Georgina von Etzdorf, Sensuality, Art and Fabric (The Cutting Edge)” by Nilgin Yusuf (Thames and Hudson1988) * “Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebook” by John Peacock. (Thames and Hudson 2000) * “Twentieth Century Pattern Design” by Lesley Jackson (Princeton Architectural Press 2007) * “1980s Fashion Print: A Sourcebook” by Marnie Fogg (Batsford 2009) * “Scarves” by Nicky Albrechtsen and Fola Solanke ( Thames & Hudson (14 Mar 2011) {{DEFAULTSORT:Etzdorf, Georgina Von 1955 births Living people British textile designers Peruvian people of English descent Peruvian people of German descent Peruvian emigrants to the United Kingdom People from Lima