Gaurishankar (also Gauri Sankar or Gauri Shankar; Devanagari
गौरीशंकर; Tibetan: Jomo Tseringma;) is a mountain in
the Himalayas, the second highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal, behind
Melungtse (7,181m). The name comes from the Hindu goddess Gauri, a
manifestation of Durga, and her Consort Shankar, denoting the sacred
regard to which is afforded it by the peoples of Tibet and Nepal. The
Buddhist Sherpas call the mountain Jomo Tseringma. The Nepal
Standard Time (GMT+05:45) is based on the meridian of this mountain
2 Notable features
3 Climbing history
4 Photo gallery
Gaurishankar lies near the western edge of the Rolwaling Himal, about
100 kilometres (62 mi) northeast of Kathmandu. (It is almost
Kathmandu and Mount Everest, and is visible from
Kathmandu.) To the west of the peak lies the valley of the Bhote Kosi,
the western boundary of the Rolwaling Himal. To the north lies the
Menlung Chu, which separates it from its sister peak Melungtse. To the
south lies the Rolwaling Chu, which leads up to the Tesi Lapcha pass,
giving access to the
Khumbu region. It is in Dolakha District.
The mountain has two summits, the northern (higher) summit being
called Shankar (a manifestation of Shiva) and the southern summit
being called Gauri (a manifestation of Shiva's consort). It rises
dramatically above the Bhote Kosi only 5 km away, and is
protected on all sides by steep faces and long, corniced ridges.
The first attempts to climb Gauri Sankar were made in the 1950s and
1960s but weather, avalanches and difficult ice faces defeated all
parties. From 1965 until 1979, the mountain was officially closed
for climbing. When permission was finally granted in 1979, an
American-Nepalese expedition finally managed to gain the top, via the
West Face. This was a route of extreme technical difficulty. The
permit from the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism stipulated that the
summit could only be reached if an equal number of climbers from both
nations were on the summit team.
John Roskelley and Dorje Sherpa
fulfilled that obligation.
In the same year, a British-Nepalese expedition led by Peter Boardman
climbed the long and difficult Southwest Ridge. Boardman, Tim Leach,
Guy Neidhardt, and Pemba Lama made it to the south "Gauri" summit
(7010m. ) on November 8, 1979. Though they did not make the long
additional traverse to the main "Shankar" summit, their climb was a
significant achievement in itself.
Gaurishankar was reached again by a Slovenian team.
The main summit (7134m) was reached on November 1 by Slavko Cankar
(expedition leader), Bojan Šrot and Smiljan Smodiš; and three days
later by Franco Pepevnik and Jože Zupan. They climbed the left side
of the South Face to reach the Southwest Ridge, then continuing to the
The Himalayan Index lists only two additional ascents of the main
summit of Gauri Sankar. The second ascent was made in the spring
of 1984 by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa, via a new route on a
ridge on the southwest face. The third ascent (and the first winter
ascent), in January 1986, was by South Korean Choi Han-Jo and Ang Kami
In the fall of 2013, the complete south face was finally climbed by a
four-man team of French climbers. After reaching the top of the south
face at 4 pm on October 21, they decided not to continue to the
7,010 m south summit. It took them 11 hours to descend to the
bottom of the face.
A panorama view of
Mountain (7134m) from Kalinchowk
Panorama mountain range of
Gaurishankar from Kalinchowk.
^ a b Sources differ widely on this peak's elevation and prominence.
Peakbagger for example gives an elevation of 7134 m and a
prominence of 1709 m.
^ a b c "High Asia II: Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining
region of Tibet". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 30 May 2014.
^ "Gaurishankar, China/Nepal". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 30 May
^ a b Read, Al (1980). "The Nepalese-American Gaurishankar
Expedition". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 22 (2):
417. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ Gurung, Trishna. "15 minutes of fame". Nepali Times. Archived from
the original on 25 July 2011. Retrieved 3 September 2012.
^ a b c Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (1995). Himalaya
Alpine-Style. Hodder and Stoughton.
^ a b Ohmori, Koichiro (1994). Over The Himalaya. Cloudcap Press (The
Mountaineers). ISBN 978-0938567370.
^ DEM files for the Himalaya (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
^ Neate, Jill (1989). High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000
Metre Peaks. The Mountaineers. ISBN 978-0898862386.
^ Boardman, Peter (1983). Sacred Summits. London: Arrow Books, LTD.
^ a b Griffen, Lindsay (November 5, 2013). "South face of Gaurishankar
finally climbed". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 3 January
^ "An interview with Aco Pepevnik". 16 June 1997. Retrieved 3 January
^ Griffin, Lindsay (2014). "
Gaurishankar (to Point 6,850m), south
face, Peine Prolongée". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine
Club. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ "Himalayan Index". Alpine Club. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ "AAJ online". American Alpine Journal: 237. 1986. Archived from the
original on 20 January 2015. Retrieved 3 January 2015.