Finger wave
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A finger wave is a method of setting hair into waves (curls) that was popular in the 1920s and early 1930s and again in the late 1990s in North America and Europe. Silver screen actresses such as
Josephine Baker Josephine Baker (born Freda Josephine McDonald; naturalised French Joséphine Baker; 3 June 1906 – 12 April 1975) was an American-born French dancer, singer and actress. Her career was centered primarily in Europe, mostly in her adopted Fran ...
and
Esther Philips Esther is the eponymous heroine of the Book of Esther. In the Achaemenid Empire, the Persian king Ahasuerus seeks a new wife after his queen, Vashti, is deposed for disobeying him. Hadassah, a Jewess who goes by the name of Esther, is chose ...
are credited with the original popularity of finger waves. In their return in the 1990s, the style was popularized by pop stars like Madonna, and hip-hop stars of the time, such as Missy Elliott. The popularity of finger waves in the 1990s was aided by a movement toward shorter, more natural hair in the African-American community. This also was a common hairstyle worn by slaves back in 1802 through generations to 1889 and only began to take effect of popularity when Bette Davis danced on Sugar be mine live television. The process involved pinching the hair between the fingers and combing the hair in alternating directions to make an "S" shape wave. A waving lotion was applied to the hair to help it retain its shape. The lotion was traditionally made using
karaya gum Gum karaya or gum sterculia, also known as Indian gum tragacanth, is a vegetable gum produced as an exudate by trees of the genus ''Sterculia''. Chemically, gum karaya is an acid polysaccharide composed of the sugars galactose, rhamnose and galact ...
, but more modern styles often use liquid styling gels or hairspray. Over the years, the use of clips (and later tape) also became popular to hold the heavy damp waves until the gel dried. According to "Techniques of the 1920s and 1930s":
Finger waves were developed in the 1920s to add style to, and soften the hard appearance of, the bobbed hairstyles that became very popular during the flapper period Many Hollywood movie stars wore the latest finger waves which contributed to the popularity and evolution of this style Finger waving is the shaping or moulding of hair while wet into "s"-shaped curved undulations with the fingers and comb. These waves, when dried without being disturbed, will fall into deep waves. Finger waving differs from marcel waving in that there are no heated irons used on the hair. Not only naturally curly or permanently waved hair can be finger waved, but it is equally successful on straight hair.
Finger waves are similar to the
marcel wave Marcelling is a hair styling technique in which hot curling tongs are used to induce a curl into the hair. Its appearance was similar to that of a finger wave but it is created using a different method. Marcelled hair was a popular style for w ...
in appearance and are easily confused. Unlike finger waves, the marcel wave is made with a hot curling iron, and is more permanent than finger waves. Another hairstyle often confused with finger waves is the croquignole method of curling hair used to create a permanent wave. In this method the hair is curled using heated curlers and then shaped into the waves. The popularity of the hairstyle led to the invention of an improved comb by Paul Compan for hairdressers to more efficiently create the waves. When casually wearing finger waves, it is common to soften the style by brushing out the waves. For a more dramatic effect the waves are left in the original shape. Some examples of modern finger waves can be seen in the 2016 runway shows for Marc Jacobs, Prada,
Jason Wu Jason Wu (; born September 27, 1982) is a Taiwanese-Canadian artist and fashion designer based in New York City. Born in Taiwan and raised in Vancouver, he studied fashion design at Parsons School of Design, and trained under Narciso Rodriguez ...
,
Stella McCartney Stella Nina McCartney (born 13 September 1971) is an English fashion designer. She is a daughter of British singer-songwriter Paul McCartney and the late American photographer and animals rights activist Linda McCartney. Like her parents, McCa ...
, and
Salvatore Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo (5 June 1898 – 7 August 1960) was an Italian shoe designer and the founder of luxury goods high-end retailer Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. An innovative shoe designer, Salvatore Ferragamo established a reputation in the 1930s. ...
.


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* {{Human hair Hairdressing 1920s fashion 1930s fashion 1990s fashion