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Szczytno (german: Ortelsburg) is a town in northeastern Poland with 27,970 inhabitants (2004). Szczytno is situated in the
Warmian-Masurian Voivodship Warmian-Masurian Voivodeship or Warmia-Masuria Province or Warmia-Mazury Province (in pl, Województwo warmińsko-mazurskie, is a voivodeship (province) in northeastern Poland. Its capital and largest city is Olsztyn. The voivodeship has an are ...
(since 1999), but was previously in
Olsztyn Voivodship Olsztyn Voivodeship () was an administrative division and unit of local government in Poland in the years 1945–75, and a new territorial division between 1975–1998, superseded by Warmian-Masurian Voivodeship. Its capital city was Olsztyn. ...
(1975-1998). It is located within the historic region of Masuria.
Olsztyn-Mazury Regional Airport Olsztyn-Mazury Airport ( pl, Port lotniczy Olsztyn-Mazury) is an international passenger airport in the North-East of Poland, branded as the gateway to the Masurian Lake District. It is located near Szymany, some 10 km from the centre of ...
, located nearby, is the most important airport of the Masurian region. Szczytno, which is located on the OlsztynEłk line, and used to be a railroad junction until Polish Railways closed minor connections stemming from the town towards Czerwonka and Wielbark. Two lakes, Domowe Małe and Długie (also known as ''Domowe Duże''), are located within the town limits.


History


Middle Ages

Near today's Szczytno are the only known megalithic tombs in Warmia-Masuria. The town was originally a settlement of Old Prussians. Between 1350 and 1360 Ortolf von Trier, a knight of the Teutonic Order and the Komtur of Elbing (Elbląg), founded a fort in the Old Prussian region of Galindia,szczytno.pl
probably near an Old Prussian settlement. The first mention of the fort, eponymously named Ortulfsburg, was a document from September 1360, after Ortolf invited Polish colonists from nearby Masovia, among whom the settlement became known as ''Szczytno''.Municipal website history section
The first custodian of the settlement was Heinrich Murer. In 1370 the wooden fort was destroyed by
Lithuanians Lithuanians ( lt, lietuviai) are a Baltic ethnic group. They are native to Lithuania, where they number around 2,378,118 people. Another million or two make up the Lithuanian diaspora, largely found in countries such as the United States, Uni ...
led by Kęstutis, after which it was rebuilt using stone. In German, the name Ortulfsburg gradually morphed into Ortelsburg. The settlement grew in size owing to its location on a trade route from Warsaw to Königsberg (now Kaliningrad). In the wake of the Polish-Lithuanian victory over the Order at Grunwald in 1410, the castle was occupied by Polish troops during the Thirteen Years' War. After the Second Peace of Toruń of 1466 it remained part of the Teutonic state, although under Polish suzerainty as a fiefdom. In the 15th century, a Catholic church was built, whose first parish priest became Mikołaj of Rzekwuj from the Płock land in Masovia.


Modern era

With its inclusion in the Ducal Prussia in 1525, which remained under Polish suzerainty, it lost its importance as a border fortress and began to decline. It was a overwhelmingly Polish town, and, according to Gerard Labuda, in 1538 only four townsmen did not speak Polish. Margrave and regent George Frederick (1577–1603), who enjoyed hunting nearby, began the redevelopment of the area. Among his projects was the rebuilding of the castle into a hunting lodge. King Władysław IV Vasa of Poland visited the town from 1628–29 and in 1639. Ortelsburg suffered from 17th century fires and the plague in 1656. The town became part of the Kingdom of Prussia in 1701. King
Frederick William I of Prussia Frederick William I (german: Friedrich Wilhelm I.; 14 August 1688 – 31 May 1740), known as the "Soldier King" (german: Soldatenkönig), was King in Prussia and Elector of Brandenburg from 1713 until his death in 1740, as well as Prince of Neuch ...
granted Ortelsburg its town charter in 1723. In 1773 it was included in the newly formed province of
East Prussia East Prussia ; german: Ostpreißen, label=Low Prussian; pl, Prusy Wschodnie; lt, Rytų Prūsija was a province of the Kingdom of Prussia from 1773 to 1829 and again from 1878 (with the Kingdom itself being part of the German Empire from 187 ...
. Prussian King Frederick William III and Queen
Louise Louise or Luise may refer to: * Louise (given name) Arts Songs * "Louise" (Bonnie Tyler song), 2005 * "Louise" (The Human League song), 1984 * "Louise" (Jett Rebel song), 2013 * "Louise" (Maurice Chevalier song), 1929 *"Louise", by Clan of ...
arrived in the town on 23 November 1806 while fleeing
French French (french: français(e), link=no) may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to France ** French language, which originated in France, and its various dialects and accents ** French people, a nation and ethnic group identified with Franc ...
troops during the
Fourth Coalition The Fourth Coalition fought against Napoleon's French Empire and were defeated in a war spanning 1806–1807. The main coalition partners were Prussia and Russia with Saxony, Sweden, and Great Britain also contributing. Excluding Prussia, ...
. The town was briefly the seat of the Prussian government, and Frederick William released his ''Ortelsburger Publicandum'' — a series of constitutional, administrative, social and economic reforms — there on 1 December 1806. Later that month, French troops occupied and plundered Ortelsburg. Six years later the town was forced to host numerous troops of the Napoleon's
Grande Armée ''La Grande Armée'' (; ) was the main military component of the French Imperial Army commanded by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte during the Napoleonic Wars. From 1804 to 1808, it won a series of military victories that allowed the French Empi ...
, which invaded Russia. In 1818, after the Prussian administrative reforms, Ortelsburg became the seat of Landkreis Ortelsburg, one of the largest in
East Prussia East Prussia ; german: Ostpreißen, label=Low Prussian; pl, Prusy Wschodnie; lt, Rytų Prūsija was a province of the Kingdom of Prussia from 1773 to 1829 and again from 1878 (with the Kingdom itself being part of the German Empire from 187 ...
. The town became part of the
German Empire The German Empire (),Herbert Tuttle wrote in September 1881 that the term "Reich" does not literally connote an empire as has been commonly assumed by English-speaking people. The term literally denotes an empire – particularly a hereditary ...
in 1871 during the unification of Germany. It became an important center of the Polish movement in Masuria and resistance to
Germanisation Germanisation, or Germanization, is the spread of the German language, German people, people and German culture, culture. It was a central idea of German conservative thought in the 19th and the 20th centuries, when conservatism and ethnic nationa ...
. In 1849-1851 a bilingual folk magazine ''Der masurische Hahn/Kurek Mazurski'' was issued in the town. The
Masurian People's Party The Masurian People's Party ( pl, Mazurska Partia Ludowa, MPL german: Masurische Volkspartei, MVP) was a pro-Polish agrarian political party active in Masuria between 1896 and 1914. The party was formed in 1896 but due to repression by the German ...
(''Mazurska Partia Ludowa''), founded in 1896 in Lyck (Ełk), had one of its main branches here. From 1906 the Polish newspaper ''Mazur'' was published here, and in 1910, Bogumił Labusz and Gustaw Leyding founded the Masurian People's Bank (''Mazurski Bank Ludowy''). In 1908 Polish writer and Nobel Prize laureate
Henryk Sienkiewicz Henryk Adam Aleksander Pius Sienkiewicz ( , ; 5 May 1846 – 15 November 1916), also known by the pseudonym Litwos (), was a Polish writer, novelist, journalist and Nobel Prize laureate. He is best remembered for his historical novels, especi ...
, who popularized the small town through his historical novel ''
The Knights of the Cross ''The Knights of the Cross'' or ''The Teutonic Knights'' ( pl, Krzyżacy) is a 1900 historical novel written by the Polish Positivist writer and the 1905 Nobel laureate, Henryk Sienkiewicz. Its first English translation was published in the same ...
'' and whose works were published in ''Mazur'', visited the town. In post-war Poland, a monument to Sienkiewicz was unveiled in the town center, next to the town hall and the ruins of the castle.


Historical population


World War I and interbellum

Ortelsburg was almost completely destroyed at the beginning of World War I by troops of the Russian Empire, 160 houses and 321 commercial buildings burned down between 27 and 30 August 1914. The town's recovery was supported by contributions raised in Berlin and Vienna. In 1916 the Viennese modernist Josef Hoffmann visited Ortelsburg, his plans for a new town hall were not carried out. A new town hall, an example of
Nazi architecture Nazi architecture is the architecture promoted by Adolf Hitler and the Nazi regime from 1933 until its fall in 1945, connected with urban planning in Nazi Germany. It is characterized by three forms: a stripped neoclassicism, typified by the ...
in East Prussia, was finally built in 1938 and listed as a historical monument in 1991. The initial plans for the reconstruction of the town were based on
Bruno Möhring Bruno Möhring (11 December 1863 – 25/26 March 1929) was a German architect, urban planner, designer and a professor in Berlin. He was one of the most important architects of the Jugendstil style in Germany. He received his education at the Be ...
's work but carried out by several local architects. The
East Prussian plebiscite The East Prussian plebiscite (german: Abstimmung in Ostpreußen), also known as the Allenstein and Marienwerder plebiscite or Warmia, Masuria and Powiśle plebiscite ( pl, Plebiscyt na Warmii, Mazurach i Powiślu), was a plebiscite organised in a ...
of 11 July 1920, which was held according to the Versailles treaty under the supervision of Allied troops, resulted in 5,336 votes for Germany and 15 for Poland. It was preceded by persecution of local Polish activists by the Germans, pro-Polish rallies and meetings were dispersed. On January 21, 1920 ("Bloody Wednesday") a German militia armed with crowbars, metal rods, and shovels, attacked the gathering of local Polish activists and severely beat local Polish leaders Bogumił Linka and Bogumił Leyk, all at the instigation of the local German authorities. Even after the plebiscite pro-Polish voters and activists were still persecuted. During the interwar period, Polish-speaking residents of the region organized ''Samopomoc Mazurska'' ("Masurian Self-Help"), an organisation for the protection of Poles in southern East Prussia. A Polish activist Jerzy Lanc was killed during his attempt to establish a Polish school. Ortelsburg was the location of the Polish House, in which meetings of Polish journalists and activists were held. The Polish House was the headquarters of such organisations as "Zjednoczenie Mazurskie", "Samopomoc Mazurska" and the
Union of Poles in Germany Union of Poles in Germany ( pl, Związek Polaków w Niemczech, german: Bund der Polen in Deutschland e.V.) is an organisation of the Polish minority in Germany, founded in 1922. In 1924, the union initiated collaboration between other minorities, ...
. Today the building is dedicated to the memory of the people and institutions that were engaged in Polish movement in Masuria. Even before the invasion of Poland, the German authorities expelled two local Polish activists in January 1939, and later in 1939 more activists were arrested, including the Polish editor Robert Kraszewski, who was then imprisoned in the and later beheaded in the Moabit prison in Berlin. Some Polish activists managed to flee in the 1930s. In the March 1933 German federal election, after the Nazi seizure of power and suppression of anti-Nazi political factions, the Nazi Party polled 76.6% of vote in Ortelsburg, compared to the national German average of only 43.9%.


World War II and post-war Poland

Near the end of World War II, most of the town's German population fled before the Red Army. Those who remained behind were either killed in the final months of the war or expelled after its end. The town was placed under Polish administration in 1945 under border changes promulgated at the Potsdam Conference, renamed to the historic Polish ''Szczytno'' and gradually repopulated with Poles. The first group of Poles expelled from former
Eastern Poland Eastern Poland is a macroregion in Poland comprising the Lublin, Podkarpackie, Podlaskie, Świętokrzyskie, and Warmian-Masurian voivodeships. The make-up of the distinct macroregion is based not only of geographical criteria, but also econo ...
, which was annexed by the Soviet Union, arrived to Szczytno in June 1945 from Volhynia. After the war, the town's life was organized anew. In 1946-1948 new schools were founded, including a pedagogical school, a vocational school and a school for kindergarten teachers. In 1947 a public library was founded and in 1954 a culture center was established. Since 1948, the town hall, besides the local administration, also houses the Masurian Museum in Szczytno (''Muzeum Mazurskie w Szczytnie''). The nearby Szczytno-Szymany International Airport, as well as Stare Kiejkuty, a military intelligence training base, came under scrutiny in late 2005 as one of the suspected " black sites" (secret prisons or transfer stations) used in the
CIA The Central Intelligence Agency (CIA ), known informally as the Agency and historically as the Company, is a civilian intelligence agency, foreign intelligence service of the federal government of the United States, officially tasked with gat ...
's program of so-called extraordinary rendition of accused terrorists. The existence of the nearby training base and the record of CIA-registered affiliated aircraft having landing at Szczytno-Szymany have been unequivocally confirmed, but the Polish government has repeatedly denied any involvement of these facilities in extraordinary renditions. To commemorate old Masurian folk traditions, a number of ''Pofajdok'' sculptures were placed in Szczytno.


Sights

Among the historic sights of Szczytno are the ruins of the castle, the pre-war town hall, which houses the municipal and county authorities, as well as the Masurian Museum (''Muzeum Mazurskie''), dedicated to the history, ethnology and culture of Masuria and Szczytno, a
Baroque The Baroque (, ; ) is a style of architecture, music, dance, painting, sculpture, poetry, and other arts that flourished in Europe from the early 17th century until the 1750s. In the territories of the Spanish and Portuguese empires including t ...
Evangelical church, the pre-war Polish House (''Dom Polski''), which was the center of social and cultural life of the local Polish community during the times of Germanisation and the well-preserved old wooden Masurian House (''Chata Mazurska''). Also are located there the
Gothic Revival Gothic Revival (also referred to as Victorian Gothic, neo-Gothic, or Gothick) is an architectural movement that began in the late 1740s in England. The movement gained momentum and expanded in the first half of the 19th century, as increasingly ...
Catholic Church of the Assumption and Baptist Church, the historic buildings of the district court, nursing home, tax office, police school, post office and former brewery.


Sports

Football club
SKS Szczytno The SKS (russian: Самозарядный карабин системы Симонова, Samozaryadny Karabin sistemy Simonova, 1945, self-loading carbine of (the) Simonov system, 1945) is a semi-automatic rifle designed by Soviet small arms ...
(formerly ''Gwardia Szczytno'') is based in the town. It played in the Polish second division in the 1980s.


Notable residents

*
Julie Salinger Julie Salinger, née Braun (31 July 1863 – 16 September 1942) was a German liberal politician and one of the first female members of the parliament of Saxony. Biography Salinger was born Julie Braun in Ortelsburg, East Prussia (Szczytno). S ...
(1863–1942), politician * Rose Scooler, née Guttfeld, (1882-1985), survivor of Theresienstadt concentration camp *
Hans Jürgen von der Wense Hans Jürgen von der Wense (10 November 1894 – 9 November 1966) was a German poet, composer, photographer, aphorist and hiker. Life Wense was born in Ortelsburg, then in East Prussia but today Szczytno in Poland, to a family of military and aris ...
(1894–1966) was a German poet, composer, photographer, aphorist and hiker *
Wolfgang Koeppen Wolfgang Arthur Reinhold Koeppen (23 June 1906 – 15 March 1996) was a German novelist and one of the best known German authors of the postwar period. Life Koeppen was born out of wedlock in Greifswald, Pomerania, to Marie Köppen, a seamstress w ...
(1906–1996), German author, whose autobiographical film evoking a lost rural idyll, ''Es war einmal in Masuren'', was set here *
Horst Kopkow Horst Kopkow (29 November 1910, Ortelsburg, East Prussia, Germany (now Szczytno, Poland) – 13 October 1996, Gelsenkirchen, Germany) was a Nazi German SS major who worked for German Security police and, after the war, was concealed by British ...
(1910–1996), Nazi spy who cooperated with British intelligence after World War II * Hansjoachim Linde (1926-2020), German general *
Hans-Peter Reinecke Hans-Peter Reinecke (1941–2005) was a German actor. Partial filmography

*''Spotkania w mroku'' (1960) - 1. Angeklagter *''Holubice'' (1960) - Ulli *''Das hölzerne Kälbchen'' (1960) - Hirte *''Beschreibung eines Sommers'' (1963) - Tenser ...
(1926–2003), German musicologist *
Christine Laszar Christine Laszar (19 December 1931 – 17 November 2021) was a German actress. Biography Laszar was born Christine "Christel" Lazarus in Ortelsburg, East Prussia, Prussia, Germany (today Szczytno, Poland). She was educated at the West Berlin ...
(born 1931), German actress *
Klaus Kilimann Klaus Kilimann (born Ortelsburg 11 October 1938) is a physicist who became an SPD politician after 1989. Between 1990 and 1993 he served as Oberbürgermeister of Rostock. Life Klaus Kilimann was born in East Prussia. His father was a railway ...
(born 1938) is a physicist who became an SPD politician after 1989 *
Krzysztof Klenczon Krzysztof Antoni Klenczon (born 14 January 1942 in Pułtusk, Poland; died 7 April 1981 in Chicago) was a Polish composer, singer and guitarist, member of Czerwone Gitary (1965-1970), later Trzy Korony (1970-1972). Composer of the greatest hits o ...
(1942–1981), Polish musician *
Waldemar Kobus Waldemar Kobus (born 1966) is a German actor. Biography Kobus was born in Szczytno, Poland and, as an ethnic German, moved to Germany in 1970. From 1988 until 1991 he attended the Otto-Falckenberg-Schule school of performing arts in Munich, Ge ...
(born 1966), German actor * Maurycy Stefanowicz (born 1976), Polish musician and guitarist *
Jakub Żulczyk Jakub Żulczyk (born 12 August 1983 in Szczytno) is a Polish writer and journalist who writes for ''Elle (magazine), Elle'', ''Machina'', ''Przekrój'' and Onet.pl. He lives in Warsaw. Life and career He graduated in journalism from the Jagiellon ...
(born 1983), Polish writer and journalist *
Konrad Bukowiecki Konrad Bukowiecki (; born 17 March 1997) is a Polish athlete competing primarily in the shot put. He won the silver medal at the 2018 European Athletics Championships, 2018 European Championships, gold medals at the 2017 European Athletics U23 Ch ...
(born 1997), Polish athlete competing primarily in the shot put


References

{{Authority control Populated places established in the 1350s Castles of the Teutonic Knights Cities and towns in Warmian-Masurian Voivodeship Szczytno County