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Lihou () is a small
tidal island A tidal island is a piece of land that is connected to the mainland by a natural or man-made causeway that is exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide. Because of the mystique surrounding tidal islands, many of them have been sites of ...
located just off the west coast of the island of Guernsey, in the
English Channel The English Channel, "The Sleeve"; nrf, la Maunche, "The Sleeve" (Cotentinais) or ( Jèrriais), (Guernésiais), "The Channel"; br, Mor Breizh, "Sea of Brittany"; cy, Môr Udd, "Lord's Sea"; kw, Mor Bretannek, "British Sea"; nl, Het Kana ...
, between
Great Britain Great Britain is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of continental Europe. With an area of , it is the largest of the British Isles, the largest European island and the ninth-largest island in the world. It i ...
and
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Its metropolitan area ...
. Administratively, Lihou forms part of the Parish of St. Peter's in the Bailiwick of Guernsey, and is now owned by the parliament of Guernsey (the States of Guernsey), although there have been a number of owners in the past. Since 2006, the island has been jointly managed by the Guernsey Environment Department and the Lihou Charitable Trust. In the past the island was used by locals for the collection of seaweed for use as a fertiliser, but today Lihou is mainly used for tourism, including school trips. Lihou is also an important centre for conservation, forming part of a Ramsar wetland site for the preservation of rare birds and plants as well as historic ruins of a priory and a farmhouse.


Etymology

In common with several nearby islands such as Jethou and
Brecqhou Brecqhou (or Brechou; ) is one of the Channel Islands, located off the west coast of Sark where they are now geographically detached from each other. Brecqhou is politically part of both Sark and the Bailiwick of Guernsey. It has been establishe ...
, the name contains the
Norman Norman or Normans may refer to: Ethnic and cultural identity * The Normans, a people partly descended from Norse Vikings who settled in the territory of Normandy in France in the 10th and 11th centuries ** People or things connected with the Norm ...
suffix "''
-hou ''-hou'' or ''hou'' is a place-name element found commonly in the Norman toponymy of the Channel Islands and continental Normandy. Etymology and signification Its etymology and meaning are disputed, but most specialists think it comes from Sax ...
''" which means a small hill or a mound. The name could have developed from the Breton words ''lydd'' or ''ligg'', which means ''in or near water''. Historically, there have also been a number of alternative forms of the name including ''Lihoumel'', which was attested as early as the twelfth century, and ''Lehowe'', which was mentioned in the sixteenth century. Lihou is also a common family name on Guernsey, with records suggesting that the name has been in use in the Channel Islands since at least the eighteenth century, including
Royal Navy The Royal Navy (RN) is the United Kingdom's naval warfare force. Although warships were used by English and Scottish kings from the early medieval period, the first major maritime engagements were fought in the Hundred Years' War against ...
Captain John Lihou, who discovered and named the Australian
Port Lihou Island Port Lihou Island or Yeta (Yœtha ''beard'') is an island in the Torres Strait, in Queensland's north between the Australian mainland and Papua New Guinea. It lies off the south coast of Muralag, separated by a channel that is long but only ...
and
Lihou Reef Lihou Reef National Nature Reserve is a former marine protected area covering an area of 8440 km2 in the Australian Coral Sea Islands Territory that was incorporated into the new Coral Sea Commonwealth Marine Reserve in December 2012. ...
. The name is also attested further afield, in a number of other countries, such as Australia, where for example, Sergeant James Lihou, the son of a migrant from Guernsey, enlisted in the Australian forces in 1916 and was killed in action in 1918 in France. There are also numerous instances of people with the surname having migrated from the Channel Islands to the United States.


Geography and climate

Lihou is the furthest west of the
Channel Islands The Channel Islands ( nrf, Îles d'la Manche; french: îles Anglo-Normandes or ''îles de la Manche'') are an archipelago in the English Channel, off the French coast of Normandy. They include two Crown Dependencies: the Bailiwick of Jersey, ...
and at low tide it is linked to the nearby L'Erée headland, on Guernsey, by a stone causeway. Apart from shingle beaches, the island has a high ridge running approximately north–south. Lihou is mainly composed of weathered rock below which are found granite and gneiss bedrock. The island has a mild oceanic climate like other Channel Islands, due to being buffered by the nearby English and French coastlines. Lihou shares the weather features of Guernsey, with winter temperatures falling to in February and summers with a high of in August. Two small islets, close to the island, called Lissroy and Lihoumel, are breeding places for a number of endangered species of birds, including
Eurasian oystercatcher The Eurasian oystercatcher (''Haematopus ostralegus'') also known as the common pied oystercatcher, or palaearctic oystercatcher, or (in Europe) just oystercatcher, is a wader in the oystercatcher bird family Haematopodidae. It is the most widesp ...
s and
common ringed plover The common ringed plover or ringed plover (''Charadrius hiaticula'') is a small plover that breeds in Arctic Eurasia. The genus name ''Charadrius'' is a Late Latin word for a yellowish bird mentioned in the fourth-century Vulgate. It derives from ...
s. Numerous other species of birds and plants are found on Lihou such as peregrine falcons and sea storksbill. The Guernsey Environment Department does not allow visitors to go to the two islets and the shingle bank at certain times of the year in order to allow the birds to breed. Approximately north of the island is a submerged ledge called Grand Etacre, which was considered to be a hazard to navigation in the nineteenth century. Lihou island was identified as a "''Site of Nature Conservation Importance''" in 1989, and as part of an "''Important Bird Area''" which includes parts of the shoreline of Guernsey. On 1 March 2006, Lihou and the L'Erée headland were designated a part of Guernsey's first Ramsar wetland site, covering about of land and sea. This has created a marine reserve for the extensive variety of wildlife including more than 200 species of seaweed on the shores of Lihou, and more than 150 species of birds observed in the area. The geology of Lihou Island is rather complex, but closely associated with neighbouring Guernsey.


History

The history of Lihou is closely linked to the history of Guernsey in particular and the Channel Islands in general. The earliest evidence of habitation are Mesolithic era objects recovered from archaeological digs of the 1990s, along with
Neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several p ...
era tombs on the nearby mainland. The recorded history of Lihou began in 933 AD when the Channel Islands were seized from Brittany by the ruler of Normandy. Lihou and the nearby Neolithic tombs were traditionally believed to have been meeting places for local witches, and fairies. This led to conflict with church authorities, especially when a priory was established on Lihou, dedicated to St. Mary (known locally as ''Our Lady of Lihou''). A number of dates have been suggested for the establishment of the priory, with estimates ranging from as early as 1114, to as late as 1156. Records suggest that the priory was an ''arriére-fief'' of the Benedictine abbey of Mont St. Michel under whose authority it operated. Ownership of the island was granted to the abbey by
Robert I, Duke of Normandy Robert the Magnificent (french: le Magnifique;He was also, although erroneously, said to have been called 'Robert the Devil' (french: le Diable). Robert I was never known by the nickname 'the devil' in his lifetime. 'Robert the Devil' was a fic ...
, in the early part of the eleventh century. The priory is thought to have been constructed with contributions from the Guernseymen, who appear to have been fairly affluent at the time. In the early fourteenth century, Lihou may have become the origin of a local legend about a wealthy Bailiff of Guernsey who attempted to have an innocent peasant executed on false charges of theft of silver cups. In either 1302 or 1304, a priory servant called Thomas le Roer was alleged to have murdered one of the monks. The Bailiff and several assistants attempted to apprehend Le Roer but he did not surrender and was subsequently killed by Ranulph Gautier, one of the Bailiff's assistants. Gautier tried to find sanctuary in a nearby church and eventually fled to England, before returning to Guernsey when the king pardoned him. However, some years later Gautier was tortured to death in Castle Cornet, but it is not known why. The priory was seized in 1414 by King Henry V of England along with a number of
alien priories Alien priories were religious establishments in England, such as monasteries and convents, which were under the control of another religious house outside England. Usually the mother-house was in France.Coredon ''Dictionary of Medieval Terms'' p. ...
. In the first three centuries, there were several Priors appointed, sometimes with short tenures, but in 1500 Ralph Leonard was installed as Prior for life. However, within decades the Priory was abandoned, with evidence of Thomas de Baugy being the final Prior around 1560. There is also evidence that the priory was allocated to John After in 1566, who had also been appointed as the
Dean of Guernsey The Dean of Guernsey is the leader of the Church of England in Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark. The dean fulfils the role of Archdeacon, rural Dean, and Bishop's commissary for the Deanery of Guernsey. In Guernsey, the Church of England is the E ...
. In 1759 the Governor of Guernsey, John West, had the priory destroyed to prevent French forces from capturing the island during the
Seven Years' War The Seven Years' War (1756–1763) was a global conflict that involved most of the European Great Powers, and was fought primarily in Europe, the Americas, and Asia-Pacific. Other concurrent conflicts include the French and Indian War (175 ...
. In the early nineteenth century, a farmhouse was built on Lihou, and the island was listed as being owned by Eleazar le Marchant, who held the post of lieutenant bailiff of Guernsey. Eleazar made an ultimately unsuccessful attempt, in 1815, to suppress the seaweed industry based around Lihou. In a book published in the same year, William Berry noted the presence of an "iron hook of a gate hinge" on some rocks, approximately three miles out at sea from Lihou, along with the remains of old roads, and surmised that Lihou may have been significantly larger in the past but that the sea had eroded a considerable portion. Through the remainder of the nineteenth century and the start of the twentieth century, the island changed hands between a succession of owners including James Priaulx in 1863, Arthur Clayfield in 1883, and Colonel Hubert de Lancey Walters in 1906. During World War II, the Channel Islands were occupied by the Germans from 1940 to 1945, and Lihou was used for target practice by the German artillery, causing the farmhouse to collapse completely. During the summer of 1952, the ruins of the priory were studied in some detail by
John John is a common English name and surname: * John (given name) * John (surname) John may also refer to: New Testament Works * Gospel of John, a title often shortened to John * First Epistle of John, often shortened to 1 John * Secon ...
and Jean Le Patourel. In 1961, Lieutenant-Colonel Patrick Wootton purchased Lihou. Wootton had plans to develop the island, beginning in the following year first by clearing the area of the old farmhouse, in preparation for the building of a new farmhouse, with construction work continuing into 1963. He organized summer camps for young adults on the island and imported sheep from the Orkney Islands which could consume seaweed. In 1983 Wootton decided to emigrate to
Prince Edward Island Prince Edward Island (PEI; ) is one of the thirteen provinces and territories of Canada. It is the smallest province in terms of land area and population, but the most densely populated. The island has several nicknames: "Garden of the Gulf", ...
, in Canada, and the island was sold to Robin and Patricia Borwick. In 1995 the island was bought by the States of Guernsey. The ruins of the priory are possibly the most extensive religious relic in Guernsey. There have been several studies and excavations of the ruins, including archaeological investigations in 1996, and in 1998, when several twelfth-fourteenth century graves were unearthed.


Economy

Historically, Lihou was an important location for a commercially significant industry based around the harvesting of seaweed (or ''vraic'' in the local language,
Guernésiais Guernésiais, also known as ''Dgèrnésiais'', Guernsey French, and Guernsey Norman French, is the variety of the Norman language spoken in Guernsey. It is sometimes known on the island simply as "patois". As one of the langues d'oïl, it has it ...
). Records suggest considerable activity as early as the beginning of the nineteenth century. The value of the seaweed as a fertiliser was so great that in 1815 Eleazor Le Marchant, lieutenant bailiff of Guernsey and owner of Lihou, initiated a court case to prevent islanders from drying seaweed on the beaches of Lihou. The case eventually led to new regulations issued in 1818 by the Bailiwick legislature, known as the Chief Pleas at the time, based on a review of ancient royal decrees. However, the Royal Court of Guernsey ruled in favour of the islanders in 1821, with the effect that permission to harvest seaweed on Lihou was granted to inhabitants of the parishes of St Peters and St Saviours. More than a century later, in 1927, a factory was established on the island to produce iodine from the seaweed. The economic mainstay of the island is now ecological tourism, based around the farmhouse, which is operated by the Lihou Charitable Trust, although overall responsibility for the island remains with the Environment Department of the States of Guernsey. Lihou and several other small Channel Islands such as Herm and Sark, issued their own stamps until 1969, when the States of Guernsey assumed responsibility for postal services in the Bailiwick, which had previously been provided by the UK Government.


Protection

The whole of the building known as the Priory of St Mary, Lihou and surrounding area was listed as a Protected Monument on 26 March 1938, reference PM236. From 1 March 2006, Lihou and the L'Erée headland were designated a part of Guernsey's first Ramsar wetland site.


References


External links

*
Ramsar wetland
{{Good article Geography of Guernsey Tidal islands Uninhabited islands of the Bailiwick of Guernsey Former populated places in the Channel Islands Ramsar sites in Guernsey Wetlands of the Channel Islands Tourist attractions in Guernsey